Messages

1

Sessions / 50F Day W/Sunshine!

« on: February 17, 2021, 09:28:57 PM »

Feel quite lucky to have experienced this session. Just me and my brother on the north end of our island. It's right near the inlet and the cross currents can make the waves very unpredictable. Especially this day with the slight side/offshore winds that started picking up. When the sun came out I could only think of how lucky we were to get this in February while Texas is getting the winter once over! Been surfin' here for years and it's always a challenge. Not alotta people check it because it's a bit off the beaten path which is what makes it so special.
North End Sesh 2/16/2021
https://app.soloshot.com/video/f249269f-1743-44a2-baf8-0547a2f78da2

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Sessions / Re: Okinawa Remote Point Break

« on: February 10, 2021, 08:13:41 AM »

OkiWild taming the wild breaks of Okinawa!~ That's a good lookin' sesh! Crazy clear water and that reef ain't no joke!
What GoPro are you using? The screenshots were over 3mb ea and had to be downsized to post.

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SUP General / Memorial Paddle Out

« on: February 05, 2021, 06:00:41 PM »

I probably shoulda posted this sooner. I've organized a paddle out for a local surfer that has been my close friend for decades now! Jeez! Researched it a bit but any tips would be stokin'. Hawaiian tradition for sure.
A surfin' buddy is co-hosting. We have two Ez-Ups w/tables to display fotos and some of his artwork. Coffee, sandwiches, and cookies at noon. I waited until mid day so it could warm up a bit.
 Mahalo in advance. 

Read this out loud and felt it.   🌊🏄

"A paddle-out is a time-honored tradition by those with an ocean-centered lifestyle, dating back to Hawaiian burial rituals. Participants enter the water together and float on the surface, hands linked to form a circle.
   Once together in this circle, the gathered community will speak about those that have passed and share how their legacy still remains within the lives of those that are able to continue back onshore. Each speech given in a paddle-out ceremony is followed by cheers and “cheehoo’s" from the accompanying circle to celebrate the memory and lasting impact the deceased left on the community.
   To commence a paddle-out circle, participants splash water high into the air and disperse flowers. They continue back to shore, catching a wave or two together for all the souls that are no longer a part of the community".

4

Sessions / Re: Orlena- CODE RED SWELL!

« on: February 04, 2021, 08:07:54 PM »

Thanx all for the replies. Read through em again. Does anyone know the name of that spot? Beside you, Creek!

You lost me at "40° water" LOL. Great shots, though.

lol..you'd be amazed at how warm a new winter suit is. Too bad mine is like 4 seasons in now!

If it makes you feel better, it was 37º today when I woke up in S. Florida.   

lol..Just like Portugal!!

You're tough. After watching your video, I went to a site that monitors the water temperature at my favorite sup surfing spot, Surfside. The water temperature there was 59 degrees F which is still too cold for me since I don't wear a wetsuit.

That will definitely keep you out of the water. Why won't you wear one? They are a pain to wrangle. Taking my winter suit off is like tryin to get out of a straight jacket!

Looking good SC!

Yea, Roy! Hull Ripper is blessed so far this winter! Hey, the Polar Paddle cancelled! 2nd year in a row!

way to test that shoulder!  I didn't go out in NY as it looked a bit gnarly, and it was!  kudos for you to brave the cold for some really nice waves!

I was definitely scared takin' that dive. For that one split second it seemed really quiet right before..then SLAMMO! Me and a cookin' buddy used to call "The Pitch Master"!

Beauty wave in that first shot and the board is perfectly positioned, but it still looks weird when you hold the paddle with one hand.   

.

That section was so butter but the wave ran away from me...thing probably broke for another 100 yards! One handed paddle grip? I guess maybe from all my years pronin? I'll try next time for a two hander in the pit!

That's some hard-core charging there!

Nice shot of a proner in the barrel @ 5 min mark too.

Was hard to psych up for those waves! Hard-core chargin' was the only approach for the bombs! Shrtbrders were killin' it! I was the only sup out, also two longbrdrs, and the rest all shrtbrds.

Awesome... and your PSH board looks right at home...

Blessed to have Big Red! I probably shoulda coulda woulda rode the 9'3" but the current and rip at that break can be really strong.

The bailout looks HORRIBLE.

It actually wasn't as bad as it coulda been. SO thought the board was gonna break. Tall Dude's hit was WAY worse. That feeling when you know where the board is during a wipeout and you know it's gonna hit you is the worst. Remember this one 3 years ago?

That bail out was similar to the predicament I was in a month ago. Not as big of a wave, and I was failing on my back with the board coming over the falls straight into my ribs Just now feeling like I could actually paddle without the stabbing rib pain. Keep charging Cookie. I will:)

YIKES!! Pay to play!! I'd like to see that wipe! Not the Naish 12'er?

Thanks for sharing Mark!! Yep, I did the 15 minute wait too but first I did the search for a forgiving spot ! An hour later, none to be found.  It was so unforgiving that the temps were the least of the concerns. You really surfed the conditions well. I just grabbed as high a line as I could and hung on. Every once in a while I got lucky but there was a price to be paid for being unlucky! Hope you got some today!

Funny how you tune the cold out to psych up. Definitely all about the waves. The first set I saw at like 10AM one hr b4 high tide was solid a 10' grey beast! With another right behind it. Where did you surf?
I did not get out the last two days for the leftovers. And the next day they weren't exactly the kinda leftovers you throw away! 

I'd like to think I go out in anything.  Never Miss a Session!

However that was above my pay grade.  Ohhhh My Goodness!

Cold and brutal.  Love the demonstration of knee paddling when it is all that will work to get through the break.

Never miss a sesh! That was my motto. Tough to adhere to it now. But I see you still doing it. Is it the cold or the waves that make you reluctant? I got my bet on you handling it out there on sup!
  I find myself knee paddling ALOT more these days. Prone paddling stresses my shoulwer way too much.

Brrr.... And I thought it was cold here last night because it rained. Someone got a nice barrel starting at the 5min.mark

Maui? lol...I could use some of that right about now! Sometimes I say I won't keep surfing in the winter but when the waves are lookin' like that!

Nice Cookie! New York was pumping and strangely hardly anyone out at my local. A pretty easy paddle out .

Good to hear you're on it! My man!! I hope you are doing well in NY. Sounds like you are! Well done on the sesh. Would be amazing to go back and surf there. Been a while now. Oct, 2015  for Hurricane Jouquin. My brother got this shot of me on my last wave in when it came onshore. I took the empty wave when we first arrived in the morning.

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General Discussion / Re: Stepping Down From Old Naish Nalu 9’6 to New Hokua 9’0?

« on: February 04, 2021, 07:15:31 PM »

Always wanted to try a Hokua! Nice "Large Wave" pic!

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General Discussion / Re: Been away for 5 years

« on: February 04, 2021, 07:10:16 PM »

This thread is full of aloha and life! Welcome back, Takeo. Cool user name. Backstory?

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Sessions / Orlena- CODE RED SWELL!

« on: February 02, 2021, 09:18:10 PM »

Was an impressive storm and produced equally impressive surf. Quite challenging. Good to see the shortboarders, long boarder, and sup all copacetic. At first when I got there I was apprehensive about paddling out. After 15 mins I decided to pull the trigger, paddled right out no problem, and lucked into a bomb first wave. 40FWater- 35F air. WNW wind around 10-15 with some stronger gusts.
..and that bailout was spooky.

CODE RED Swell!!
https://app.soloshot.com/video/70fd0b88-2019-4db1-957a-20771837d707

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Sessions / Re: freedom II

« on: February 02, 2021, 02:41:49 PM »

Good you're getting out. Nice clean conditions and good sup surfing! I heard on the news about the strict lockdowns in France. Kinda the opposite of us here in the USA.

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Sessions / Re: Second January Session

« on: January 30, 2021, 06:55:12 PM »

Your surfing is amazing.

LOL..thanx.   

I am having video editing issues with my Soloshot (the iMovie on my Mac Book seems to be gone and I can't seem to reload it). You are using the Soloshot app for editing. I may try that. Any issues using that app to do you editing?

SSedit is a really stable editor on PC/Windows10. Not sure about Mac though. It's been working for me since the first beta testing.

Bonus groundswell today. I got to demo an 8'8" Corevac Blade my buddy has. FCS2 quads on it. Sweet ride. A lot looser than my 9'3" Hull Ripper.

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Sessions / Re: Second January Session

« on: January 30, 2021, 07:27:41 AM »

Like the dark side of the moon

lol..Probably warmer up there!

As for the face

You look great, Pono! Thanx for the quality selfie!

Messing around with some Strawberry Fields...I actually went to the John Lennon vigil in Central Park on Dec. 14, 1980.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CKqA2dCDLLa/

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Sessions / Re: Second January Session

« on: January 29, 2021, 09:20:19 AM »

No surfing today, 1/29!

12

Sessions / Re: "magic hour" at Cowells Santa Cruz

« on: January 29, 2021, 08:44:42 AM »

Found it.
https://youtu.be/_mXCOGGnvRI

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SUP General / Re: Surfing “Logs”

« on: January 29, 2021, 08:39:54 AM »

Log Jam!!

The wave faces looked good perhaps 9-12 ft.

I'd like to see that!

14

SUP General / Re: Haley at Mavericks

« on: January 29, 2021, 08:36:48 AM »

YIKES!! WAY above my paygrade!

15

Sessions / Re: Second January Session

« on: January 29, 2021, 07:26:11 AM »

Burrr..Cookie. I took a board to the ribs a few weeks ago and it hurts to paddle, so nada for me.

lol...no lie! Winter's full force is here this weekend. Wind Northwest 15-45 mph with higher gusts, today’s high 28 w/wind chills from 7 to 14 degrees. Wasn't too bad a coupla days ago when I surfed though. Was like 42F Air and 45F water. Guess by Southern CA standards that's pretty frigid though. Board to the ribs?! TallDude is down...heal up quick, Matt.

Yes, to be still out there at our age is a win. And those waves are some winners. What beautiful peelers.

No lie on both comments. Thanx, J.

It gets easier when you pass 70. Beautiful waves, you're making me nuts. I've been out of the water for the last week, doing Flourouracil on some pre-cancer face stuff. I look like someone tossed a cup of hot coffee in my face.

How so does it get easier after 70 and guessing I'm driving you nuts cuz your benched? Hope your pre-cancer battle is victorious. I'd like to see a picture of your "Coffee Face"! 
 
  Close surfing buddy of mine just passed away after an almost two yr battle with colon cancer. Watching him deteriorate wasn't easy., especially considering we were the same age by a few months. Organized a paddle out for him scheduled for 2/6. About 40 of us are paddling out dead of winter to honor him. He was an amazing dude and I was lucky he tolerated my friendship all these years. "Jack Would Go"! He was hardcore and surfed many winters with me. That 2nd shot of him is from winter 2016. Full rubber.