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Messages - Dwight (DW)
Pages: 1 ... 249 250 [251] 252 253 ... 315
3751
« on: March 02, 2010, 06:08:29 PM »
Forget the dimensions listed for the poly board. You specify the dimension when you order it. The web site doesn't make that clear.
If they say the poly is 1 lb heavier, then plan on it being heavier. I think my molded sub vector was more like 24 lbs.
I would not take a poly board of they gave it to me. Poly resin spider cranks if you even look cross eyed at it. Imagine how many spider cracks it will have after the paddle abuse is factored in. Epoxy is so much better.
The pros and cons of the custom EPS sub vector, is light weight. They turn 3 times faster, but lack glide without weight. It takes some adjustment. They feel completely different from the molded boards.
3752
« on: March 02, 2010, 02:43:10 PM »
So, if I'm storing my board in my cool garage, should I take the screw out if it's sitting unused...for a day?...a week?...don't worry about it?
Thanks everyone.
Leave the screw in. The screw is sealing with an 0-ring in a sandy environment. A recipe for leaks. Set it and forget it. The boards are painted in colors that stay cool. Don't bag it, don't put it inside a car.
3753
« on: March 01, 2010, 11:50:47 AM »
If you are going that small, why not just surf?
1) the challenge 2) the exercise
3754
« on: February 27, 2010, 07:27:07 AM »
The regular Vortice has more rocker than the XP. It's not as fast as newer shapes. It was the first race board I owned.
3755
« on: February 25, 2010, 02:19:14 PM »
I've owned a lot of Rip Curls. My newest one (6 month old $150 digital model) keeps the correct tide much better than all the previous ones. It came with world tides preprogramed for most spots along our coast. You pick one of those spots, then add a correction factor for your exact location.
This seems much better than the old way of setting future tide, then it would drift off over a years time because there was no moon phase factored in for your location. Maybe having the tides preprogramed for almost every location, they get all the details right for keeping the tide correct.
3756
« on: February 24, 2010, 06:06:34 PM »
You need Hots new Titanium extension.
3757
« on: February 19, 2010, 07:49:48 AM »
Please describe what a Zone S-16 is? What did you tell the shaper you wanted different? To my eye, the nose looks more pointed. The raised ridge on the bow more pronounced. What's different underneath?
3758
« on: February 18, 2010, 04:32:15 PM »
My quad conversion is done. The paint match came out perfect. Thanks to Home Depot for the match. It took 3 screwed up quarts and about 10 scans to get it, but Home Depot came through again. The crew at Home Depot love matching surfboard paints. No matter how hard, or how long it takes, they always say, "that was fun" once they get it right.
The challenge is getting a tight, light free seal with the scanner head against a surfboard with no true flat surface. After matching paints on 3 boards there, I've learned to keep doing scans until you get two identical readings.
Photos on my blog.
3759
« on: February 18, 2010, 06:42:30 AM »
That's a great looking board....... shame it's that hideous colour. Somehow Naish ( Do I say Nash? or Naysh ? ) has locked itself into making the some of the best SUP's ,then painting them with the worst baby shit colour the world has ever seen. And don't get me started on that Naish logo, my god!!
I busted their chops for only offering yellow too, then when it came time to order a custom board, I had to pick a color. Crap, I couldn't think of any colors that don't get blistering hot other than white and yellow. Then the light went off in my dim brain. Maybe Mr. Naish is smarter than me. Yellow and white make the most sense for EPS production boards. Hum, I like yellow now. BTW, it's Pantone 123C.........just in case you want to paint all your boards yelllow
3760
« on: February 16, 2010, 09:52:29 AM »
........ since there about the same price range.
Not anymore. New pricing puts the Hokua $200 higher than the Mana Also, the boards out of the China factory (Mana's) have nicer fins and bag in my opinion. All you get for $200 more is a lighter board when built at the Thailand factory (9'6 Hokua). That said, light sure is nice . I just added a 9'3 Hokua to my quiver. It weighs 18 lbs
3761
« on: February 16, 2010, 05:21:53 AM »
As I was about to type my answer, I get this red warning saying a reply was posted while I was typing.
I was about to say 7'9 and 9'5 Mana. Great minds think alike DJ Demo that 9'5 Mana. The wood in those Naish boards makes them feel better on a wave. I now wonder if the feel wood adds, might not be the real reason for Blanes switch to wood. No more hollow bouncy pop out feel
3762
« on: February 14, 2010, 03:36:52 AM »
I put FCS Fusion plugs in mine. I wanted a glass over box. I've seen too many hairline cranks on the edges of non glass over designed boxes. As for quad placement, you won't find a simple answer to that one. A friend of mine currently vacuum bagging wood laminate shortboards just spent over one month researching quad placements. He visited 2 local factories, one so large there were 13 shapers working there. He still can't decide where to place his quads I've ridden a few SUPs that were quad, some worked, some didn't. My old 9'3 Sub Vector worked well as a quad, so I felt good about extracting some details from it. It being similar in tail width and length to my Mana, also makes details of its quad placement more relevant. The key detail I chose to take from my Sub Vector was placing the rears 8" behind the fronts. As for the distance off the rail of the front fins, the Mana and Sub Vector differ slightly. How far in off the rail the rear fins should go, is the million dollar question no two shapers agree on. You've got the old method of equal distance of all fins, to the finely tuned Mckee system which places the rears very far in. Moving the rears in, increases drive and stiffens the board. I chose to follow Stretch's system. I've got two Stretch boards that rule. Stretch places the rears 3/4" farther in than the fronts. Toe angle has to taken from your already installed fronts. You're not starting from a clean sheet of paper, so you have to work off the fronts. My Sub Vector and my Stretch's both have 0.5mm more toe on the rear than the front. That's 1mm more toe measured between the forward shaper marks on the rears when compared to the front. If unsure, you can always go parallel to the fronts to be safe. Cant angles are pretty consistent at 2 degrees less on the rear than the front. Photos of my quad project are on my blog.
3763
« on: February 12, 2010, 06:56:56 PM »
They shouldn't use the track again until catch fences are installed.
3764
« on: February 12, 2010, 03:26:15 AM »
If weight is a concern, the www.xtrak.com wins. This is the same pad Maxfield sells. Otherwise C4 wins for the built in tail pad and grip.
3765
« on: February 10, 2010, 04:44:23 AM »
Good story Bill.
Hey, if you get another custom downwind board anytime soon, you really should consider a wide tail. I'll never go back to pins for ocean swell chasing. Pins may be faster, but those wide tails makes us old clumsy folk feel young and skilled.
Pages: 1 ... 249 250 [251] 252 253 ... 315
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