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Messages - surfinJ

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1
General Discussion / Re: Info on big wave sup boards?
« on: January 18, 2020, 02:00:20 PM »
My prone gun is a nine footer and my sup gun is a 10-4.  Just like the difference between my short prone and sup boards, the sups size bigger.

Crowds are a bummer anytime but especially at a crowded peak. I naturally take a cautious approach, but itís tricky.  I have never come close to hurting any one but will take a beating to make sure of it.

On the really big days stress control is a big thing and the camera is just too much. Gotta keep it simple.
These vids are on the 10-4x28 beautiful baby on 10í days. Jeff Clark wonít make them wider. And it is true, wide boards do not work at big wave speeds.  Jeff has a beveled rail to give the board some sink for control at speed. A sup is generally too fast.
In the vids you will see me pull out because of a guy underneath and a drop in. Also beatings endured because I went too deep because of the crowd.
The last vid I am alone in which is the best.  But the reason is a hell shore break which is why I choose the crowd on most big days. That is the problem, when itís big only a handful of spots are still rideable.  And these all get crowded.





2
General Discussion / Re: East Side Winter Fire
« on: December 29, 2019, 05:54:59 AM »
Thanks for the software advice guys. I am stuck with my apple computer so the windows stuff is too complicated. This stuff is my first editing experience and although I like it so far, it does take a lot of time.  good idea to try more with the iMovie before investing in new software.

Looking forward to the next segment Oki.

3
General Discussion / Re: East Side Winter Fire
« on: December 23, 2019, 02:25:05 AM »
Nice bowlíin peak you got there Oki. Sunny and clean as well.

You guys have got in the mood to film again too. Got the camera finally but got some advice on video program?
I used only iMovie so far and during my sabbatical I have been thinking about finalcut pro to give more control.

4
Gear Talk / Re: Float Suit Buell
« on: December 21, 2019, 11:27:37 AM »
Yea, I find this suit to be a good solution for the warmer times. I have had my
zipperless impact vest pulled half off up over my head during a wipeout, ugly scary moment.  I now where surf shirts over it and that prey much works.

I seem to get my worst injuries surfing smaller waves. Most of the time I think we just get lucky.

5
General Discussion / Re: Total Anatomical Shoulder Replacement
« on: December 09, 2019, 12:06:52 AM »
Sounds like the doc did his work alright.  Now comes the rehab slog. 
Head down and push forward.

The music will help.

6
General Discussion / Re: A little SUP spinning this week
« on: December 07, 2019, 11:52:44 AM »
Nice. You nailed that backside bottom right into a sweet pocket, unweighted and pushed the eject. 

7
Random / Re: Throwing in the towel
« on: December 06, 2019, 11:35:13 PM »
I am sorry to hear that your path has gotten more difficult.  It really sucks getting forced to stop doing the things we love. While the way we deal with this varies somehow the human seems to deal with a lot at times. And you seem to have gotten a lot.
The end of active surfing is for most of us here a closer reality then the distant first surf in our youth.  When I think of the day when I canít pull it off anymore, I know the pull of the waves will get me to the beach.
If you can still enjoy the small and clean in doses that is great.
And the wood carving is something I hope you can continue.  Leave the carving on the water to those coming behind.
And as far as talking story, I would not doubt you are fully loaded with those.

8
General Discussion / Re: Swellinfo
« on: December 05, 2019, 12:42:19 PM »
This system sure beats calling the payphone on the Long Beach boardwalk and trying to extract from the person who picks up if there are any waves ~ me 1976.

https://www.windguru.cz/309513         wave and wind +
https://www.yadusurf.com/                  wave and wind +
http://maree.info/140                          tides
https://www.surf-report.com/bouees/gascogne-62001-houle-temps-reel.html  bouy
https://webcam-hd.fr/webcam?id=21&camera=hossegor--la-centrale    last minute

9
Training, Diet, and Fitness / Re: Back surgery advice
« on: November 30, 2019, 01:19:11 AM »
Welcome back surfafrica.

TallDude that was a powerful post. 

10
General Discussion / Re: Total Anatomical Shoulder Replacement
« on: November 16, 2019, 12:16:00 AM »
All the strength with the pain. Hope find an alternative to the oxy.
And NWing is an inspirational lead for the rehab.

11
General Discussion / Re: Total Anatomical Shoulder Replacement
« on: November 11, 2019, 11:24:13 PM »
All the best. And when you are recovered maybe a trip to Europe.

12
Wingsurfing, Windfoiling, Wingfoiling, Wing SUP / Re: Axis Foils
« on: November 11, 2019, 06:21:29 AM »
After a few days of stronger wind and smaller gear, we had a light westerly breeze yesterday accompanied by perfect 64 degree air and sunshine.  The Gorge is so beautiful in those conditions.  This was a soft and agreeable wind.  It was mostly 12 MPH, ranging from 8 to 18 but without edgy gusts.  Perfect Swing 5 meter weather with the Axis 1020.  I had the big 500 tail on with the Standard fuselage (in Axis speak the Standard is their longest fuselage) so this is their biggest kit.  That combination is silly fun in light wind.  It pops up so effortlessly and responds so well to pumping.  It takes a little adjusting to because the rhythm of the pump can be so much slower with this bigger gear.  I was practicing one quick little down push and slowly riding it up. Keeping the up angle really low.  Doing it like that and bring the air wing overhead you can feel it all accelerating you upwards for 30 or 40 feet on a tiny little downpump.  That momentarily weightless sensation right there is unique to this sport.  It really does feel like your flying.  These things are so freaking efficient.  I was also amazed by how the big foil would pick up the little microcups that were forming.  Go into a jibe and you can feel the tiniest slopes accelerate you with no wing involvement.

I stayed out for two hours, completely overheated in the sunshine and my winter rubber and stumbled up the beach like a goofball but jeez was that fun.

So although the vids have been ever more enticing from foil world, it might be this post that pushes me over the edge.
Only details to be worked out is an honest tally of time available, and the family administrator.
Thanks.

13
Random / Radio Garden
« on: November 10, 2019, 02:19:17 AM »
I just stumble across this gem. A interactive globe with local radio stations you can click on. For travelers or music lovers a treasure hunting place.
https://radio.garden/

14
Sessions / Re: Home Runners
« on: November 10, 2019, 02:15:00 AM »
Nice, digin it. I find that this camera angle lets the viewer really ride along.
Surfing alone on a sup is very liberating.  You can just keep grabbing the next wave.  Such a different experience then I a crowd.   
I think I surfed the spot by the pier a couple of times on big swells.

The board was nice and loose.  I have a favorite board that is a similar 9x28 120l quad finned. Feels like a skateboard.

15
General Discussion / Re: LongBoard SUP renaissance
« on: November 09, 2019, 10:58:39 AM »
Thought it was a prone board.  Crazy sizes for a sup.  Super on the wave I bet.  How big are you?
Nice stick by the way.

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