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Messages - OkiWild

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1
Technique / Re: Quad Issues on new board
« on: Today at 06:21:45 PM »
Me on a new board: First set up as a quad "This sucks, it won't even turn." Second out as a thruster "This is way better," and surf it like that for a while. Then start thinking about quad again, switch it out "This board is magic as a quad." LOL

Turns out the problem is usually me getting used to the board.

But different boards are different in their tail shape, and more importantly, the fin placement. First thing I notice about your board is the trailers look to be placed pretty far back. Like farther back than the center box? That's going to make a quad really, really tight. In addition to that, your trailing fins are set back in their tabs.  Inserting  a picture of three of my performance boards, and notice how far forward the trailers are in relation to the center box. 

With the fins like mine, the boards turn almost like a thruster, but won't slide, and actually feels like there's acceleration when on a rail (because there is). The only drawback is that when flat (not really on a rail) and accelerating (like dropping in) in powerful, hollow surf, which is 95% of what we have here, the tail can feel really skatey, which is pretty unnerving. Many people like the nubster or guitar pick center, I like the Mink Systems diffuses (black tabs on the tail). They're all the way at the back, which works well to keep the tail from squirming, especially when there's some chop, and air moving under the board.

My problem with thruster on SUP hasn't been one of speed, but one of "hook." With the wide tail and increased volume when compared to a normal short board, once put hard on a rail, I can feel the board wanting to "cork out," and it's really easy for me to push through the hold of the fins, especially when coming out of the turn and the board is transitioning back to flat. Some people like this sliding feel. I don't, and the quad cured this. One of my Tokoro 6' short boards measures 12" leading edge to leading edge of the forward fins, where my SUP boards measure closer to 17". So in a turn with the thruster on SUP, it ends up feeling more like a twin short board, and the quad brings back to more of what I like.

But again...fin placement is everything, and on some boards, some things aren't going to work.


2
Gear Talk / Re: New Blue Planet 'All Good'
« on: January 04, 2020, 03:10:30 AM »
Thanks for all the detail, I think, still digesting it all. I wanted to mention that I have bought way too many fins and finally found that the Collin McPhillips are the best for me. I have them on both of my performance boards.

A set of the Colin fins are on my wish list, but I can't get them directly from Futures any more, and I'm pretty deep in fins already  :D   

3
Gear Talk / Re: New Blue Planet 'All Good'
« on: January 02, 2020, 10:41:05 PM »
I received the 2019 All Good on Christmas day. Had to go to the air freight terminal and grab all the presents! Since then, I've had it in the water four times, and the results are fantastic. For reference, I'm 5'10 and about 180#. 2019 board is 8'8"x31.5"x120L.

I chose this board for the increased width and stability on windy, choppy days, not expecting it to be a great board, but a compromise for stability in crappy conditions. I have a lot less fun when I'm falling off all the time... First day out I set it up as a quad with Futures GL2's, the waves were just overhead, really hollow, side-off wind with some chop, and about 700M off shore. Paddling and dropping in, the board exceeded expectations. No "easy in" on bowling, hollow reef waves, only a slight paddle speed advantage for SUP over short board, but you catch it in the same steep, critical section. However, the board never stuck the nose once, and standing on the tail didn't make it squirrely. Plenty of nose kick, and plenty of tail kick that you don't really notice until it's flat in the water next to you. Rocker throughout, but still paddles quickly. Turns in and grabs the face quite well. I was actually quite shocked, as I was expecting a dog because of the 31.5" width. That said, rail to rail, and in a rail cut-back, it felt quite stiff, and I had to use a lot of rear leg to "push" it around.

Next day, same spot, wind from the opposite side-off direction, same size, a little less chop. I switched out the fins for the GL2 thruster, with the center fin all the way in the back of the box. I thought for sure it was going to slide down the face on the steep drop in, but it held fast, and pulled into the wave face...again...shockingly well. Two unintentional cover-up's where I had to be mid-board, and it just stayed locked in. Got spit on one, got too high and thumped on the next  :D  With the thruster set up, the rail to rail and cutback became excellent. Interestingly, one thing that really stuck out was drive. Coming off the bottom, or into a cutback, pushing with the rear foot, I could really feel the board drive forward, which I never expected. Granted, I had low expectations for such a wide board compared to something 28" wide, but the board went way past expectations. I was taking a little video, and caught myself blabbering on about how the board really was the "All Good," and how it would be an excellent board for the transitioning prone surfer. I love all my boards, but after surfing the All Good only four times, I could just surf this one board forever. It feels that good. The only "down side" was that I had to move my rear foot quite a bit more than I'm used to when going from a bottom turn to a cut back.

The next two times out were on the west side of the island at a head-high hollow bowl that transitions to a fat shoulder to a dumping close out in six inches of water. First day had no wind and was incredible. Probably got 50 waves,and was blabbering on about how good the board was again. The next time, the wind was side at 20 knots, and the surf was really thumping. Initially, I took out a different board that was 8'8"x28"x116" with squash tail, as the surf was about 12' faces, but slabbing hollow. After falling off about three hundred times, I paddled in and got the All Good. Running out of time and tide, I never grabbed any bombs on it, so I don't know how it rides at high velocity in larger surf, but it was a real test of the stability I bought it for, and it didn't disappoint. Very stable in all four compass directions, and I only fell off a couple of times while standing waiting for waves.

So excited for the coming year. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone.

 

4
General Discussion / Re: Major hamstring Pull, I hate This!
« on: January 02, 2020, 09:19:52 PM »
I'm 62 years old, have been stand up surfing for almost eight years and have never stretched before a session. I do see surfers doing stretches on the beach from time to time but I've never felt a need to. Maybe I should look into it.

I'm not much of a "team" guy, but I wrestled in high school, and played rugby for some years. Both of my sons are athletes, one rugby and one handball, with full-tuition sports scholarships. We were all taught never to stretch before practice/game, but to warm up, moving the muscles through their entire working range without the stretch feeling (static stretch?). Warm up is critical to get the muscles hot and loose, and stretching was done afterword. Also that stretching before the muscle is warmed can lead to injury... Right or wrong, I'm sure Google knows ;-) but it's worked for me and mine. For SUP, the paddle out is usually the "warm up."  ;D

5
Technique / Re: Dropping In with Strong Offshores
« on: December 30, 2019, 07:04:49 PM »
There's always your knees.  ;D

20 knots onshore in this clip, but you get the picture.




6
General Discussion / Re: Info on big wave sup boards?
« on: December 30, 2019, 06:48:18 PM »
I thought I needed a longer board for the bigger stuff (like in the video), but found that smaller was better at the increased speed. It was hard to find the sweet spot when at speed on a 10'x28" wide board. Too far back and it slaps, too far forward, and it doesn't want to go on a rail and tends to slide. The ticket was something 9' and under, 28"ish wide for some stability, and a pulled in tail with very thin and sharp rails. I'm 5'10" and 85kg. The paddle speed on a board like this is still way faster than I can paddle one of my 8' prone guns, and I don't have the loss of control that comes with the longer, wide boards.   

7
General Discussion / Re: East Side Winter Fire
« on: December 24, 2019, 02:18:23 AM »
Nice bowl’in peak you got there Oki. Sunny and clean as well.

You guys have got in the mood to film again too. Got the camera finally but got some advice on video program?
I used only iMovie so far and during my sabbatical I have been thinking about finalcut pro to give more control.

Thanks J. Nothing fancy here. Gopro in 1080/60, and edited in Cyberlink Power Director 17. Not expensive, easy to use the simple stuff, and loads of features if in-depth editing is your thing. I just try to keep it simple. As far as filming again, DO IT! I love watching all videos of SUP surfing, beginner to extreme. Every week I type it into the Youtube search, sort by date, and try to watch them all. I love to see what others are doing.

@ OkiWild

Nice video.

One thing I always notice about your videos, your camera is nice to watch how you use your paddle technique wise and your foot placement on the your board when surfing the waves.

As always, thanks for sharing your videos.

NW, as always, thanks for the kind words. I'm trying to mix it up with different shots, but get lazy and the nose camera is the go to ;-)

Oki

Very cool video. The hand drags are classic! Thanks for posting.

Bob

Thanks Bob. The hand drag has always been a natural thing for me. I can't kick-stall a SUP like a short board, and it's the only way I know how to slow it down, but it still doesn't work well... Feels good, though!

Nice... You got me motivated to post some of my recent footage. I tried dual POV's, chest mount and paddle mount. I was getting hot in my 3/2, in the sun and I think it caused the Gopro lens to fog up a little. Once I got wet and cooled down it was better. I just started using Adobe Premiere, so I'll post my video on a new thread.

Watched your most recent edit. Diggin' the chest mount. That's a good angle from a good height.

8
General Discussion / East Side Winter Fire
« on: December 22, 2019, 08:43:03 PM »
Quick (1 minute) clip of a few waves on the east side yesterday. The pacific side always has something, but with the winds predominantly northeast in the winter, most spots are blown out. When a cold front approaches, the wind will swing west for a day, and the east side lights up.

 


9
Gear Talk / Re: Float Suit Buell
« on: December 20, 2019, 06:51:02 PM »
People love to phoo-phoo on safety stuff because it's not cool. I've worn a helmet in heavy surf since Gath started making them. Now wearing an impact vest, and have been looking for a way to get a suit like this, but without looking like a JOB fanboy...though I kind of am  ;D


Here's some carnage from the last year. Back panel in my impact vest from hitting the reef. Helmet damage from hitting the reef (slight concussion). Ribs damage from the board rail with 3mm wet suit, but no vest.


 

10
Gear Talk / Re: board bags
« on: December 03, 2019, 01:03:38 AM »
I have several FCS SUP bags. Excellent quality. Heavy duty. Not inexpensive...

11
Sessions / West Side Winter is Here
« on: November 25, 2019, 06:12:25 AM »
Seems like the cold fronts are coming about once per week now, bringing up the west side. East side can fire all winter, too with big push from the Pacific, but the wind has to be right...which it usually isn't. Here's a few short clips from a small and windy, but off shore day last week. Also a pick from a secret spot I surfed last evening on the east side. Small one but the swell was 2.5 meters @ 10 seconds, top to bottom, so I didn't record any surfing... 

Board is a Blue Planet Pocket Friend @ 8'2"x28"x100L with Futures F6 Honeycomb quad fins. This board is a blast to ride, but not so much to paddle. Especially when the wind is 20kts like in this video.

Wondering if i should just start a single thread that I add to, instead of a new thread for every session? Probably upload once per week.






12
General Discussion / Re: for all you thinking about a super short board....
« on: November 23, 2019, 07:04:27 PM »
Took the 14' Bump Rider out in some shoulder high soft surf yesterday. Day before that was the 100L 8'2" Pocket Knife. Not sure which was more fun... Probably the Bump Rider ;-)

13
General Discussion / Re: for all you thinking about a super short board....
« on: November 22, 2019, 12:42:14 AM »
And then there's this guy.



Some of the best days I've had were surfing a 12'6" race board.

14
Sessions / Re: First Winter Swell
« on: November 20, 2019, 12:24:16 AM »
I may have to join Instagram because I missing a lot of my kids high school and college feeds.

Same reason I have an account...LOL

15
Sessions / First Winter Swell
« on: November 19, 2019, 03:47:00 PM »
Not sure how to embed a video here, or if it's even possible, but I'm going to start using the Instagram platform more. Most Youtube engagements seem to be about two minutes...even on a five minute video. So keeping it short at a minute, or so, may be a good choice for short clip stuff. Also has more reach. I posted this short clip about two days ago, it already has over 500 views, and I've received quite a bit of positive feedback. If someone knows how to embed the player here, so you don't have to click an outside link, please let me know.

*EDIT: Now that it posted, I see that it automatically embedded the player... "Simple Matt" LOL


Anyway, the first real winter swell arrived. First day was big, but blown out. Not much fetch on the west side, so swell dies as quick as it arrives. I caught a few hours on the next day. One spot has a large A-frame that drops to a wall about half the size of the peak, then paddled down to a bowl that I like. Just a couple of clips pulled out of the GoPro footage.

Blue Planet Ninja Warrior 8'10"x29"x116L. Futures GL2 Quad.


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