Messages

1

SUP General / Re: Haley at Mavericks

« on: January 13, 2021, 10:56:07 AM »

Beasho thanks for sharing.  Absolutely Amazing. 
What size board is Haley riding?  The wave almost makes the board look too small.
Does Haley make his own 20 ft leash, or does he have it custom made?  A 20' leash is on my wish list.  Love my Crow Haley waist leash, thanks for the recommendation.

2

Gear Talk / Re: Opinions please - Sunova 10"x30.5 137L Style XL vs Infinity New Deal 10"x29 139L

« on: January 13, 2021, 10:36:38 AM »

I like looking at guild factor.  This website gives a rough guide:
https://www.supconnect.com/tips/volume-in-stand-up-paddle-surfboards
Basically says:
a beginner should have a guild factor (gf) = 2
intermediate (gf) = 1.7
advanced (gf) = 1.3
Your current board has a guild factor of 1.9.
Both of the boards you are looking at have the same guild factor:
sunova 10' x 30.5" 137L gf = 1.5
new deal 10' x 29" 139L gf = 1.5

Stability & wave catching ability are pretty high priorities for me.

Based on your priorities, you may want to lean towards the wider board.  I haven't tried either of these brands.
With respect to a guild factor of 1.5, I think that is a perfect next jump down for you.  I made the greatest progression while riding a gf 1.5 board (should have skipped the 1.67 in hindsight).
I am the same height and weight as you. This past year, my guild factor progression has gone 1.67 pintail (@29.125" wide), 1.52 pintail (@33" wide), 1.55 squash tail (@32" wide), 1.4 pintail (@ 30" wide), 1.44 squash (@30" wide), L41 ST 1.4(@30.5" wide), 1.39 pintail (@29.5" wide), L41 Simsup 1.37(@31" wide), L41 TV Dinner 1.28 (@29" wide).  Now that winter swell is here I bounce between a 1.93 pintail (@ 28 7/8" wide) and a 1.52 pintail (@ 30" wide).  But with the additional weight in winter rubber those gf are probably more like 1.8 and 1.4 respectively.
I think having a longboard and a shorter board is a great combo.  I lean towards the shorter board if the tide is low and the waves are steep and pitching.
You may want to check out Blue Planet as they have some fun boards in the 140L range.  Their rails are nice and thin compared to the AllWave.

3

Gear Talk / Re: Realising you have gone too small and in doing so- lost the magic of sup

« on: January 06, 2021, 11:53:57 AM »

@supnsurf: thanks for sharing.  What size did you get?

4

Wingsurfing, Windfoiling, Wingfoiling, Wing SUP / Re: 7M Airush/Starboard wing

« on: December 22, 2020, 02:14:24 PM »

I've been very happy with the Takoon wings. Where I live I use the 7m most of all.

Takoon tested highly here:
https://takoon.com/blogs/news/windsurf-magazine%20
The 7M Takoon has the best published lowest wind range 7-18k.
Starboard Freewing Air 7M = 8-20k
Gong Superpower 9M 8-15k
F-one 6M 8-20k
Slingwing 6.4M 8.7-17.4k
Anyone tested the low end of the 6M BoardridingMaui?

5

Random / Re: Robert Redfield - CDC - Covid

« on: December 18, 2020, 04:48:09 PM »

New England Journal of Medicine, Safety and Efficacy of the BNT162b2 mRNA Covid-19 Vaccine  (December 10, 2020):
https://www.nejm.org/doi/full/10.1056/NEJMoa2034577
"two injections, 21 days apart"
"early protection by the vaccine, starting as soon as 12 days after the first dose."
"in the interval between the first and second dose, the observed vaccine efficacy against Covid-19 was 52%, and in the first 7 days after dose 2, it was 91%, reaching full efficacy against disease with onset at least 7 days after dose 2."
"This report includes 2 months of follow-up after the second dose of vaccine for half the trial participants and up to 14 weeks' maximum follow-up for a smaller subset.  Therefore, both the occurrence of adverse events more than 2 to 3.5 months after the second dose and more comprehensive information on the duration of protection remain to be determined"
"These data do not address whether vaccination prevents asymptomatic infection."
"The development of BNT162b2 was initiated on January 10, 2020, when the SARS-CoV-2 genetic sequence was released by the Chinese Center for Disease Control and Prevention and disseminated globally by the GISAID (Global Initiative on Sharing All Influenza Data) initiative."

It will be curious to see if vaccinated people act like asymptomatic people in the population, spreading it to others.
So 12 days after your first dose, if you haven't been exposed to Covid-19 yet, you now have a 48% chance of developing a Covid-19 case.
28 days after the vaccination is over (7 days after second dose;28 days after the first dose), if you haven't been exposed to Covid-19 yet, you now have a 5% chance of developing a Covid-19 case.
But we still don't know if those vaccinated, if exposed to Covid-19, can transmit/spread Covid-19 the same as an asymptomatic unvaccinated individual.
As of this month, the length of protection from the vaccination has only been shown to be effective for 2 to 3.5 months after vaccination.

6

General Discussion / Re: Can you safely glue half of a 3 piece paddle?

« on: December 17, 2020, 11:54:54 AM »

If you want to save money, consider making your own paddle.  A wood paddle can be made out of a wooden dowel (closet) and a scrap piece of wood.  Build cost is $10 or less.  I use these type of paddles for flatwater paddling, much preferred over my first aluminum/plastic paddle that came bundled with my first board.  Unless you are racing or surfing, I don't see the need for a $$$ paddle.

7

Gear Talk / Re: Realising you have gone too small and in doing so- lost the magic of sup

« on: December 16, 2020, 01:04:30 PM »

I want to return to the things that I loved about SUP:
high wave count
glide
sufficient stability to paddle for 2-3 hours even in chop with occasional sitting
ability to cruise the line up

In my head- something around 9' 29" and 125-135L sounds a nice balance. A decent performance rail and tail

I think your ballpark of 9' sounds reasonable.  I think your ballpark of 29" sounds reasonable, but if the rail is nice and thin I wouldn't worry about going wider.  Your literage gives you a guild factor of (gf) = 1.32-1.42, which is reasonable for performance.
When I think of: high wave count, glide, stable, cruise the lineup, what comes to mind is a longboard.
Here are some boards to consider:
Deep Dogman 10'2" x 29" x 4 3/8" 146L gf=1.53
Genration Kanga 9' x 31.75" 142.5L gf=1.5
Infinity New Deal 9'6" x 31 141L gf=1.48
BluePlanet Fun Stick 9'4" x 33" 140L gf=1.47
BluePlanet Sweet Spot 9'2" x 32" 140L gf=1.47
Infinity New Deal 10' x 29" 139L gf=1.46
Genration SP25 8'8" x 31 5/16" 137.7L gf=1.45
Starboard Pro 8'7" x 29.5" 135L gf=1.42
Deep Jackson Close 10'1" x 30" x 4" 133L gf=1.4
Genration Kanga 8'9" x 30 7/8" 130.9L gf=1.38
Genration SP25 8'5" x 30 7/16" 126.2L gf=1.33
BluePlanet All Good 8'8" x 31" 126L gf=1.33
Starboard Longboard 10' x 29" 123L gf=1.29
Sunova?  Perhaps Creek can chime in on Sunova boards he would recommend.
Links:
https://genration.com/collections/sup/products/
https://www.deepoceanboards.com/
https://infinity-sup.com/collections/sup-surf/products/the-new-deal-1?
https://sup.star-board.com/paddle-board/hard-paddle-board/
https://www.blueplanetsurf.com/sups/surf-sups/

I have 119-129L L41 boards (gf=1.29-1.4), but I prefer them in clean summer shortboard conditions.  I often go out fresh on L41s, then switch to a bigger board if I get tired.  For me, I don't think I will drop any more in volume unless there is a foil underneath. 
Out of the brands listed, I've tried BluePlanet and Starboard.  BluePlanet boards are fun and would satisfy most if not all of your criteria.

8

Gear Talk / Re: Starboard Whopper Jr. in OH waves

« on: December 11, 2020, 06:55:16 AM »

In windy conditions, the board has struck my head with this technique (board caught wind and flew).  I do find this technique effective in relatively strong onshore conditions, where you have more surface area when standing up versus on your knees. 

We had relatively strong onshore conditons yesterday.  When it is windy, when any part of the board (i.e. nose) gets off the water, the wind will catch it can throw it.  You can see this when you try to push a board over a wave with your hands.  That is why the board whacked me in the head.  For the knee paddle method, you want your knees to be in front of the handle.  Get speed, then as the wave is about to hit, lean back and pop over just like in the video.  If you are positioned far enough forward, the pressure from your knees will keep the nose of the board down enough so it doesn't catch wind.  You can practice the technique with your hands.  If your front hand is too far back, the wind is strong enough to pitch the nose of the board up.  As more surface area is exposed to the wind, the pressure from the wind grows dramatically.
One inquisitive local self-proclaimed big wave surfer (Non-sup) asked me if I only stand up paddle to make it to the outside.  Thanks to Clay's video, I said I do whatever it takes to get to the outside with absolutely zero shame (prone, knees, stand up).  My shoulders are not strong enough to soley prone paddle out on big days on any surf craft.  Being able to paddle on knees in addition to standing allows me to hit different muscle groups, which is an advantage to make what feels like a marathon paddle out on big beach break days.   
@surlygringo: Nice tip, thanks for sharing.

9

Gear Talk / Re: Starboard Whopper Jr. in OH waves

« on: December 08, 2020, 02:32:50 PM »

Everyone says never knee paddle... I say bull $h/T. I can paddle very fast on my knees and never have a problem getting out.
I tell everyone:
"if you want to get out when it's bigger... watch an old guy" they can't fight it, so they have to think their way out.

Great pictorial Creek.
Joe Blair has a video where he describes the knee paddle method (<10 ft of white water) (~5min mark):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oY9MytrZjhw
In windy conditions, the board has struck my head with this technique (board caught wind and flew).  I do find this technique effective in relatively strong onshore conditions, where you have more surface area when standing up versus on your knees.  I think this technique is better than trying to prone paddle through white water when the waves get bigger, but I prefer the "ollie" technique when the waves get overhead.
With regards to overheating, my arms are the last thing to get cold.  A short sleeve wetsuit is worth considering.  If a 3/2 is too hot, a 1.5mm is worth considering.  And if your arms get cold, throw on a 1.5 mm top.
A lot of heat is lost from your head.  I like to keep my ears covered to prevent surfer's ear.  For hoods, my head can get cold with just a wind stopper fleece hood in winter conditions (good for air>55).  A 1-1.5 mm neoprene hood is just enough to keep my head warm (good for air 50-55).  A 3/2 neoprene hood can be too warm if the sun is out (good for air <50). 

10

Gear Talk / Re: Starboard Whopper Jr. in OH waves

« on: December 08, 2020, 07:47:54 AM »

Clay made a really nice video on the topic:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeo_SgCWvLI
I've noticed that after popping the nose up, you need to move your back front forward before the wave hits you to have success.  It is also important to get your momentum up, then do a stroke before the wave and remove the paddle before the wave catches it, or the wave will pull your body's weight back.  Try to keep paddling (after the wave hits you) to move forward and/or maintain balance.
My first winter SUP surfing, I also broke some ribs.  I fell in front of the board and the wave pushed the board into my ribs.   Now I wear an impact vest under my suit as per Beasho's recommendation:
https://vimeo.com/user413605
I grew up bodyboarding and would get sore ribs from prone paddling.  My ribs really like prone paddling with an impact vest.  I have tried Nike Pro Combat Hyperstrong "football" padded compression top and like it (cut off the shoulder pads, and trimmed excess fabric around the armpit).  I wear it in smaller surf, with my smaller boards, or when it gets too hot for the neoprene impact vest.  Then when the surf gets big and cold, I wear both inside my suit.  When the surf gets over double overhead, I wear an additional pullover impact vest outside my suit.  My waist leash does a good job of keeping it secure.  This winter, I also started wearing impact shorts under my suit (I have been recovering from sciatica due to a skateboard injury), with no impact on mobility, but with added floatation.  With all of these layers, I can get overheated in 52 degree water, wearing a 3/2 backzip full wetsuit. 
Here is a cool picture of J-Bird on a Whopper:

11

Gear Talk / Kanulock maintenance

« on: December 03, 2020, 02:44:15 PM »

Kanulocks are lockable tie-downs.  They have steel cables inside nylon webbing.  They keep honest people honest, and securely link a board to a roof rack.
https://www.amazon.com/KanuLock-Lockable-Tiedowns-Set-Truck/dp/B0016MJWKA/ref=sr_1_3?
The first generation I had was labeled SPT.  The keys had plastic at the keyring part and were fragile and would break.  Something happened to the strap where the metal core would extend outside of the ends of the webbing.  This lock lasted 7 years before one of them would no longer lock and I bought the current Kanulock branded version.  The keys are all metal for this version, but the metal of the key is soft.  Make sure you have the tie-down pulled nice and tight before trying to lock.  If there is resistance to lock with the key, stop, try to pull the webbing tigher through the cam.  Once it is tight, the key should pivot like butter.  If you try to force the key to turn, the key could distort and break.
I've been using these kanulock branded tie-downs for a couple of years now.  The only maintenance I've ever done was spraying Boeshield T-9 in the locking mechanism if it ever started to feel gummy.  (i.e. after a rainy season).  It works like WD40, but is a clean version of it.
https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?

Recently I noticed the nylon was starting to feel crusty after a couple of years of use.  I ended up doing the following to refresh the straps:
I sprayed some fabric cleaner on the nylon, then rinsed the straps until the water went clear (I did not get the locks wet).  I allowed the straps to air dry for a few hours, then sprayed with Aerospace 303 UV Protection:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_3?
Then I would wipe it in with a rag.  I allowed the straps to dry overnight.
The straps now feel like new.  They no longer feel crusty and stiff.  They are smooth and slide through the lock easily.  I was a little worried that they would affect the tightness of the locking mechanism, but have tested them over a couple of weeks and they are solid.  The uv protectant should help the fibers of the webbing last longer.
I started using aerospace 303 on my favorite kites 15 years ago (those kites still look and feel brand new).  Would work well on wings too.
If you have a modern car with unpainted plastic, aerospace 303 will make it look like new again.  (Works much better than Armor All).

12

Gear Talk / Re: rail tape vs paddle guard

« on: December 02, 2020, 12:32:16 PM »

I am not a fan of rail tape.  I inherited a starboard with it and it still had chunks of kevlar on the rail missing.  Once the rail tape was removed, the rails looked ugly.  Ended up repairing and painting.
I have another board that I inherited with rail tape and it chafes me when I prone paddle the board.
I like my paddle guard on my carbon paddle.  Joe Blair was the first guy I knew using them.  I also paddle with wooden paddles (no paddle guard) and don't notice a difference.  I am not a racer.
The only benefit of a paddle cover is if you live in a hot environment and have carbon paddles (black+carbon+sun+heat=bad).  I sewed a nylon sleeve for my paddle with spare fabric for storage in my car (more inconspicuous).
When I first started I bought board bags for my boards, now I don't even use them anymore.  They just add to the weight while transporting.  And they get moldy when it rains.
I am hard on my gear and self-preservation comes first (Just snapped my 11' board in two this week swimming under a wave with a Crow Haley waist leash).  Respectful praise to Beasho's invaluable shared knowledge over the years.  Winter swell is here.

13

Gear Talk / Re: Which futures fins for a 10"6 x 29 Gerry Lopez Surf Sup & quads or thruster?

« on: December 02, 2020, 10:47:42 AM »

When you are out with your friend, exchange boards.  I've found testing a lot of different boards was informative.
I've tried a V2 quad set.  I like the speed and lack of drag they have, remind me of the Stretch set.  You can always add a nubster if you want more drive.
I come from a skateboard background and always felt right at home on Quads.   Quads remind me of riding bowls on a skateboard.  Small quads can feel like a skateboard in the rain.  But I appreciate the ride of a single fin too.  A single fin reminds me of bombing a hill on a skateboard.

14

Gear Talk / Re: Which futures fins for a 10"6 x 29 Gerry Lopez Surf Sup & quads or thruster?

« on: December 02, 2020, 10:47:12 AM »

With regards to getting a fin to fit in the box, it is ok to shape a fin to fit in the box.  I wouldn't do the opposite and shape a box so that a fin could fit.  I have some fins that are too small and I have to add reflective duct tape to a fin to fill in the gap in the box so that a fin is not loose in the box.
For cutaway, if you take away area from the base of the fin, you remove resistance from turning, making it feel like a smaller fin, but still having the benefit of its size where you can feel the drive while paddling (versus a smaller fin).  These are typically used in a 2+1 setup.
https://futuresfins.com/products/cutaway-7-0
You may find this video interesting.  He talks about quads versus thruster and the ideal lines you would draw with each.  (If you haven't listened to the paddlewoo podcast, I highly recommend them.  The Conner Baxter rainbow stroke was mentioned in Conner's interview.)

With regards to thruster, I've had the same experience as you.  I still think it would be worth trying a single fin, as they can have less drag than a thruster.  The bigger the single fin, the more drag you will feel (nose pitching up).
With regards to buying a left versus right fin, make sure you you are getting the one you want.  I believe the "left" fin is the one on the "left" side when the board is in the water from the bird eye's view of the board.
For Quad fins, I initially played with: Controller Quads, PSH (Pancho Sullivan front/Controller Rear), and the Stretch Quads.  The Controllers act kind of like a twinfin, but with additional hold, and are appropriate for our weight.  The PSH fins felt a little stiff for my taste.  The Stretch are more of a medium fin, I've found that I like the extra stickiness of a nubster fin in the center box for our weight.  The Stretch fins are speed generating fins.  Since then, I have played with whatever fin combos I have.  You can go small for the rear quad, you just lose drive, where the tail can drift.  I find that I like larger quads as the waves get steeper or bigger.
I feel the same with regards to flatwater paddling.  I encourage you to try a different fin setup every time you go out: (Single, twinfin (quad front only), quad rear only, full quad, thruster, no fins).  Worthwhile to practive paddling the board backwards too, if you want to work on your hellicopter game.   I've found that I learn more, the worse the conditions are (windy & choppy) [wear a leash in these conditions].  It is fun to find a rhythm where you can paddle solely on one side and go straight.  Try to feel the board surf as it glides during a stroke.  A 20-30 min flat water paddle session can be informative.  Long paddles can point out flaws in your technique.  It was my flat water paddle sessions that I learned how to improve my footwork and paddle technique which had dramatic results in the surf.

15

Gear Talk / Re: Which futures fins for a 10"6 x 29 Gerry Lopez Surf Sup & quads or thruster?

« on: November 25, 2020, 01:04:03 PM »

For a 180 pivot, have you tried the rainbow stroke?  You paddle from the tail to the nose on the heel side of the board (like a rainbow, props to Conner Baxter), then from the nose to the tail on the toe side of the board (like a rainbow).  You should be able to get 90-180 degrees in effectively two strokes.
Fins are expensive.  Try option B.  I would experiment with low cost fins until you dial in what setup you like.   When experimenting, I switch it up every session, and keep notes in a fin diary.  It is definitely worth experimenting with fins, as you can transform a dog to a magic board.  No affiliation, but dorsalfins sells some low cost center fins for size experimentation.  Your GL's look pretty chewed up, those would hum for me while kitesurfing.  How much do you weigh?  Perhaps the GLs are too big for your weight. 
When I first started riding my longboards I liked my controller quad set (appropriate for my weight) as the board would spin 180 easier than a big 2+1.  On at least one board, I have since changed my preference and like a smaller 2+1 (6"-7").  It doesn't spin 180 as easy, but I like how it turns better.  On a 9' & 12' board, I found I have a lot of fun with a 8.5" single fin.  A single fin will really help you get a feel for the rail line of how a board likes to turn.  My buddy said he caught the ride of his life on a 11' single fin.  But if you like more top to bottom surfing, a 2+1 will have more drive and a tighter arc.   I've found that I prefer a single or 2+1 (over thrusters and quads) in messy conditions, I have more drive when I paddle with a 2+1 or single fin as it seems like I can paddle faster and cover a larger distance.
For a single fin, I've heard the rule of thumb is 1" per foot of board.  But I have found that with a SUP, you can go smaller.  For a single fin, I would go up to a 9".   SUPs are wider, have more swing weight, and you have the leverage of the paddle.  I found this video really insightful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0UihzchsfQ
With a center fin, the more forward towards the nose, the looser the turns will be (as you are effectively making the fin area near the rail smaller as explained in the video above).  For a 2+1, I would try to keep the center fin between 6"-7".  To enhance turning, you could try a cutaway fin.  For 2+1 front fins, you want to keep the surface area small at 3.25", 3.7", no bigger than 4.5".  I have a 12' that turns surprisingly fast with 4.25" sides and a 7" fin.  The center fin size is a balance of pivot versus drive as the center fin goes smaller to bigger. 
When you look to replace/supplement your longboard, I would look at short wide tail boards that have quick acceleration.  Less swing weight for the 180 pivot, and less real estate to travel to get on the tail.
Have fun.