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Messages - Sam the Surfer

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Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: May 11, 2019, 12:06:45 PM »
For those interested in the longer version, below is the video from today in clips. It shows the process to ferry (enter) the wave. I'm finding the entry is the most difficult part of foiling river waves. It's key to have the right equipment, in this case, a 10" mast (hitting rocks on entry), a big 36" front wing for lift, a glide rear wing and on top of the fuselog (so the metal can protect the wing from rocks), and a 5'6" super light board. What's so cool is that this is small wave and almost unsurfable and now it IS surfable and fun! In the video, you will see a bunch of whitewater that creates a 'hole'. The key is to kick off and go right into the whitewash and get through it. Easier said than done. The front footstrap is key for stability, especially on the ferry over. The video is chronological and shows a lot fails! However, flying the wave makes it totally worth it!

The 10" mast allows for the shallow entry and makes the board very quick side to side which is super fun. It is also very technical because there isn't much room for error. If the wave only allows a 10" mast... so be it!! Flying IS flying!! Go have fun out there!!

Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: May 11, 2019, 10:14:28 AM »
Excuse the crappy phone film. This is an example of the potential of river foil surfing!! This wave is pretty much not surfable on a regular set up. Itís small and the entry is brutal. Iím planning on making a video of the attempted entry to the wave. Itís shallow going over rocks to the wave (I have dings on my board and wings to prove it.. haha). I used the 10Ē mast, and stood on a rock shin deep to kick off. Getting to the wave is much more difficult than surfing it. Plus, the 10Ē mast doesnít give much room for error. However, this was an absolute blast!! I do the Beasho front strap kick in and then let it ride. SO FUN!!

Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: May 11, 2019, 06:36:02 AM »
Thatís awesome!! What Iím learning on this river foil journey is that itís super fun and challenging!!

Wave type is a big deal and with entry Iím finding I hit bottom with longer masts. So I use a selection from 10Ē-25Ē and think for most waves that 12.5Ē would be perfect (but I donít have that length.. haha). Whatís fun about the shorter masts is that the turns are quick and with a short board, can fit in the wave. Typically, river waves are super steep. Supeter found a beauty wave- Iíve never seen anything like that- go in standing up and backwards. Very cool.

I use a Badfish releasable leash that connects to a life jacket. A 36Ē wide front wing for lift. Not all flows allow the foil but it should later today.

Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: April 21, 2019, 02:49:51 PM »
Looks great!! Nice work!! ⚡️⚡️⚡️

Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: April 20, 2019, 07:02:35 AM »
Here is a clip from last weekend on the famous Pipeline wave. It was so shallow that the 10Ē strut was hitting rocks on entry. It was my first successful air drop (not intentional) haha. Also, it took almost 2 hours I get this wave.  :o

Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: April 19, 2019, 05:58:13 PM »
Awesome! Looks like a super nice green wave!

Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: March 31, 2019, 05:25:15 PM »
The water is picking up CFS as the snow melts. Here is a great shot on the 15Ē strut!

Foil SUP / Re: Foil SUp Standing Wave Glwd SPrings CO
« on: March 14, 2019, 08:16:48 PM »
Hey guys, Iíve set up a bunch of rocks in my driveway. Really big ones. Iím thinking of standing on a ladder on top of two skateboards and running over them.

Whatís the best way to make sure Iím going really fast when I hit the rocks? Should I go with a 4í or 6í ladder? Should I wear foot straps?

Asking for a friend.

This one made me smirk.  ;) And if you were wondering, the front foot strap is essential.

Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: March 13, 2019, 08:57:09 PM »
Stumbled onto this thread.  I live in CO, about 20 min from the Glenwood Springs wave park.  I currently kite foil, have a number of different wings but have been using the moses 633 and 483 rear stablizer with a 91cm and 111cm mast.  I also have a SLingshot 76cm with 24 inch mast.  That is probably what i would use for the river.

Here is video of the glenwood wave, water speeds seem a lot faster than what you are riding.

Video of kite foiling, board size is 4'2", on a moses 633, 9 m kite in 18 mph winds.

We have had record snows, so am expecting water levels to reach in the 20k range. 

The eddy i pop in from is full of rocks.

So i dont even know where to begin.  I would probably need a new board,  and then the question is how to get on this wave.  Rope might be best?  I know the saftey issues, but i could have someone posted on the rope with a quick release.

Any thoughts?

A few thoughts:

- the wave in the video I was surfing was really low levels (ideal at 6,000) and it was only around 2,900 cfs. The entry is super shallow so I used the 10 inch strut.
- I use several different strut/mast lengths (10, 15, 20, 23 inch) depending on the depth of the entry and river wave.
- higher flowing waves fly better. Either way, a huge front is key with a rear wing that glides (I didn't have a lot of success with the 'v' shaped rear wing because it didn't provide enough lift).
- a super light and short board are key to fit in the pocket.

It's an interesting concept though because I flew the famous Lochsa Pipeline river wave (where Kai Lenny prone foiled) and the entry would only allow a 15" strut even though the wave was deeper. I have a lot more to learn about strut/mast length because it isn't always about riding the longest one due to the water dynamics. The 10" seems to put the wings in the right spot most of the time.

I choose to not use ropes or any assistance and have learned how to paddle in, prone and stand up etc. The current set-up was over a year and a half of testing and finally have a set up that is adjustable, flies, and is super responsive!! This same set-up works awesome in the ocean as well and I've learned that flying is flying!! Ocean waves are amazing and river waves are amazing as well!! The set-up is a King's Paddle Board (5' 4" X 32" carbon) and foil assembly (with a 36" custom front wing and glide rear).

I highly recommend putting a front footstrap on- it's a real game changer!! I haven't put a rear one on yet because I'm worried about being stuck in it and trying to kick into it would be a challenge. Also, I find the river wave to be a huge challenge because of the water dynamics.

Hope this helps!!


Foil SUP / Re: Session and a show
« on: March 09, 2019, 08:04:28 AM »
Great fun foiling today. It was one of those mornings when it's easy to look at the wind and the chop and go get breakfast, but I went, and had a blast. The wind wasn't as bad and the waves were better than they looked. 

Your post motivated me to get out there.  It was blowing 15 to 20 NW so the Jetty in Half Moon Bay was the option.  I haven't surfed there much in the last 10 years.  BUT it's been acting like a little foil park.  Feathering on the outside and backing off.

Unlike your situation it was 50 degrees and blowing aka COLD!!!!  However the wave was working and I was flying on almost nothing.  Pretty cool in the grand scheme of things. 

Impressive Beasho!!

Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: February 18, 2019, 07:41:30 AM »
Ripping it Sam! You've got your niche surfing spot my friend. You don't have to worry about line-up hassles from prone river surfers. You go head first into that freezing 33.1 degree water and you'll get worst brain freeze of your life. I think I'd stay with a shorter mast. Doing a high dive nose plunge into rocks makes it double scary. Hats off to you...

Haha! The line up was small today! :) 25 degree air helps... and the short 10" mast puts the wings in the right spot for lift. It's really interesting that foil surfing the river that often the foil us pointed up out of hole/dip (you can see that dynamic on the close up). The short board and shape help with this and the 36" wing.

The first part of the clip I'm using the paddle to help my front foot get in place in the strap (for BEASHO  ;D). Although specifically designed for river foiling, the board and foil assembly (with a 25" mast) were awesome on the ocean!!

Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: February 17, 2019, 07:35:52 PM »
EPIC day on to foil on the river!!

Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: January 05, 2019, 01:28:01 PM »
Beasho- todayís foil illistrates the importance of a front foot strap on the river!! Itís amazing to fly in he river!! The journey continues!!

Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: January 05, 2019, 08:24:59 AM »
I continue to learn more as the journey continues. . . . put on a front foot strap which is essential on the river. While the mast is only 10" on this set-up (to get into the wave) it was still flying and with the shape of the board, it wasn't getting sucked down into the pile. It's a little like surfing the whitewash of an ocean wave (my only reference is SanO) but 100's harder (haha).

Watching the video it looks like you are constantly rocking and rolling on the foil. 

I have been Professing the Benefits of Footstraps for 6+ months now.  What you are showing is how critical the footstrap is to control, at a minimum, in the whitewater. 

Can you comment on how much more important the strap is to NOT having a strap?

I liken your video / experience to taking off in a critically steep whitewater wave situation.  The front STRAP makes a huge difference in these environments among others like turning and control at speed.

The front strap is critical in the river for several reasons:
1) the take off. Standing on a rock and pushing into a wave, the strap put your foot exactly where it needs to be. It also holds the board like a hand (if you watch the video, my toes are barely in the strap to keep the board and wings away from the rocks below)
2) The ferry is a challenge because crossing the seam (where the water flow changes from going upstream to down stream) tips and rocks the board. The foot strap holds my foot to keep the board from ripping.
3) Once in the wave, the side to side rocking and forward and back in turbulent water, I use the upper ward part of my foot to stabilize the board

I would consider a rear strap as well but would be a real challenge in the whitewater. I tested a few times without a strap and figured out where my foot goes and have had way more success with the strap (thatís why I read the thread).

Foot straps are the real deal!!

Foil SUP / Re: River Foil Surf
« on: January 02, 2019, 06:52:34 PM »
I bet that tiny board is helping you make the zillion adjustments necessary for the crazy river water. Very impressive.

Yes the board makes a huge difference (shape, length, and size). It was specifically designed for the river but works amazing on the ocean as well.

I think the river water wave is super dynamic that makes the challenge different depending on what break and shape of wave. Flying at 10Ē on the river felt similar to flying at 2 feet and the main thing is that itís super fun!! Mast height and position can now be adjusted based on the break and depth of water!!

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