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Messages - Califoilia
1
« on: February 25, 2023, 09:09:05 AM »
The F-one 8M is SOLD
The Duotone 5M is still available. I currently have it in my possession so I was able to inflate it to figure out what the heck it is. It has no model name markings on it, and appears to be a first edition wing from a few years back.
It is in very good shape, and would be suitable for someone just starting out, or maybe as a practice wing on a skateboard for someone who doesn't want to use their new wings in fear of falling and ruining/tearing them. That said, the price is now dropped to $250 obo. The seller just wants to get whatever out of it, since he's given up winging, and has no use for it.
2
« on: February 20, 2023, 10:46:31 PM »
Last year, a friend of mine bought a couple brand new wings, inflated one (a 5M Duotone something with boom) twice to trying sup winging on a lake, and a F-One 8m CWC that's never come out of the bag. He's now selling them since he really didn't enjoy it that much, and wants to spend his time doing other things. He's asking $750 obo for the brand new F-One and $500 obo for the Duotone with the boom. He's in Oceanside, CA and can ship, but at those prices doesn't want to pay for it.   DM me if interested, or for more info
3
« on: February 20, 2023, 10:08:09 PM »
The +1 degree stab shim seemed to do the trick. It added just enough lift and front foot pressure to equalize my feet. Today my pitch control was much more solid.
I was using the BSC 1060 with the 400 rear. It will require more time on the board to confirm but I might be okay now with the base plate all the way forward at the end of the tracks. Great to hear! If you ever get a chance, try one of the new Progressive tails (if that "400 rear" is an older Freeride or Flat Speed). I've found that they're something special with lift, speed, and control. So much so that some of the larger HPS wings (980 and 1050) hat I wasn't a fan of earlier, all of a sudden came alive, and are so much fun with the 350 and 325 Progressives.
4
« on: February 16, 2023, 09:17:50 AM »
I'm considering drilling out the Axis base plate if necessary to give me an extra inch in the tracks. It seems easy enough to do since the threaded holes are already there. What are those threaded holes for anyway? Does anyone know?
I never did ask why they were threaded (which never made any sense to me either), but I did receive a new baseplate a few months back, and was happy to see that the holes were no longer threaded, and that an 8mm bolt slipped right on through.
5
« on: February 13, 2023, 04:08:35 PM »
If my mast plate is all the way forward in the tracks and I find that I still don't have enough front foot pressure, would adding a mast plate shim help? If I'm understanding you correctly, if you have too much lift from your wing and mast position (...don't have enough front foot pressure), you need to move your mast rearward to take out lift, before adding any shims to your mast or rear tail. Edit: If I read that wrong, and you meant that you don't have enough lift in order to use your front foot to pressure the nose of the board down for better pitch control of the board/foil throughout your runs...then yes, if you're all the way forward, you could start by shimming the stab so from level, the trailing edge is higher than the leading edge. I'd try that before starting to trim the baseplate, which more or less just changes the ride level of the board when the foil is riding flat/level, and doesn't change the overall riding lifting characteristics of the foil as shimming the tail does.
6
« on: January 30, 2023, 02:33:03 PM »
I'll be in Cocoa Beach March 8th-12th for the Ron Jon " Beach 'N Board Fest" if you're in town on those days, maybe we can say "howdy" and chat a bit.
7
« on: January 29, 2023, 09:20:38 PM »
Hey, yeah I went with the Kalama. The 5'2" is a lot quicker, there is still a bit of a drop in stability in short period inlet type of mess. I take my licks there, but for the most part it's a solid upgrade and as small as I want to go for my weight (175 lb). Data off my Apple Watch as shown it's quicker overall. Now that I've gotten the cadence down a bit better it definitely pops off the water quicker, I don't really foresee needing another board (except maybe a barracuda for prone) anytime soon. I have a Kings 5'1x27"x102L and a Kings 7'10x19.5"x115L (Barracuda style) DW board, and find that that's the perfect two board quiver that give something small and maneuverable in the surf for surfing and winging on average -->bigger/windier days, and surf, winging in smaller/lighter wind days, and then (attempting) flatwater starting on days when there's none of the above. Haven't tried DWing yet, but looking forward to that day in hopefully the not too distant future.
8
« on: January 29, 2023, 09:11:58 PM »
I found it easier just to lose a few lbs off the old bod, than continually fret about a pound or two heavier board. That's also why I trunk it 90% of the year, and wear a 2mm jacket when it's "cold" instead of carting around 2-3 lbs of wetsuit full of water. Also, while I didn't watch the video, I gotta say that the thumbnail photo of an aluminum mast on the "light" board in a thread so worried about every ounce of board weight did give me a giggle. And honestly, wth do us 50, 60, 70+ year olds, 185lbs plusers on sup tug foils, really think we're going to accomplish with a pound or two less foil board...foil like the 15, 20, 30 year olds, and sub-160lb "kids" on their tray table boards?  That all said, I ride Kings boards, and Dave consistently turns out sub 12lb boards, so it's never been too much of a problem for me anyway.
9
« on: January 03, 2023, 11:56:36 PM »
Any motorized surf craft needs to be taking off on swells that human-powered surf vessels are unable to catch. This does not mean go way outside, catch the swell, and then foil through the lineup...it means stay out of and away the f'n line up! EDIT: To be fair, I feel like I'm cheating with my Kings 7'10x19.5"x115L DW board, and make sure that I'm not chasing what others on less glidy boards would be able to get into. Yes, the urge is there to turn for everything, because now I can dang near catch everything, but I remind myself that "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should", and what I nicely say to the growing number of "eCrafts" (efoils, tow boogies, and now Foildrives) that we're starting to see in the lineup.
10
« on: December 20, 2022, 10:48:49 AM »
I tried several brands of rail tape over the years, and now buy nothing but RSPro. It's well worth any additional cost.
11
« on: December 20, 2022, 10:45:50 AM »
The 88L FG board is 27" wide. I think it would be lousy as a prone board, it's just so hard to paddle a board that wide. I tried my 75L FG wing board (26" width) when I left my prone board home one day and it didn't work well for me. You are correct wrt the width, don't know what I was looking at.  But yeah, either way, 88L for a sup foil board under a 175lb rider is too little, and 88L and 26" wide is too much as a prone foil board as you found out.
12
« on: December 17, 2022, 09:00:38 AM »
The 88L (5'5"x23") board will definitely be a challenge to stand and paddle, especially in lumpy bumpy conditions (another 10L would have been nice), but the Armstrong V1 1550 setup listed was one a lot a number of guys in my area learned on back in the day. Don't see a lot of them now, but as a "take it out occasionally" setup, it'll be fine for you IMO.
13
« on: December 12, 2022, 12:18:47 PM »
I think current foil manufacturers are missing an obvious bet. They sponsor kids with supernatural talents to showcase their expensive gear, that no kid could possibly buy without willing investment from Dad and/or Mom. The target audience is geezers and sub-geezers, and the marketing message should be simple: "Our wings are so great that even Bill Califoilia can do this". Cut to a video clip of me him wobbling through a jibe, blowing a tack, and straining to get to my his feet during a knee start. Marketing magic. You're welcome. Fixed it for you, because I know of one company that has done that for a couple years now...and that same "geezer foiler" has demos on the beach for folks to "try before they buy".
14
« on: December 12, 2022, 12:07:57 PM »
I would love to see a more detail and specifics on how you set the track boxes and how you do the stringers?? This was before I had Dave making my boards (when I was riding Angledfoils and the reason for the two sets of boxes)...but after cutting in the boxes, we took a straight edge and circular saw, and cut the full depth of the saw blade right along the outside of the box cutouts....  From there, we simple Gorilla Glue(d) in 1/8" marine plywood (or Luan door skin), and then once cured, used a multi-tool to cut the wood close to level to the bottom, and then sanded it the remaining of the way flush with the bottom. We then Gorilla Glue(d) the boxes into cutouts and to stringers. This was the drawing I made to explain to my previous shaper what I was looking to do...  ...from a screenshot I grabbed from someone else who was just using Divinycell foam to mount the in boxes as was the method of choice at the time. While it looks like the stringers go the full length of the board, they're actually only about 2/3rds of the way up from the tail. Dave has used several methods...cutting through the tail end of the board, gluing and strapping the stringers in place, and then cutting the boxes in afterwards....  You'll also notice the we are now only going approx. 1/2 way up the board, and haven't had any problems whatsoever gluing the boxes to that length of stringers. He's also cut stringers and boxes together on the CNC machine...  ...that too has also worked out extremely well on one of my previous sup foil boards; which is over a year old with plenty of misadventures, and the board and boxes are still rock solid. Hope that helps.
15
« on: December 06, 2022, 12:46:41 PM »
Sorry, there is no way to shim the angle of the tail with respect to the front wing. This is the most fundamental form of tuning. I have spent plenty of time playing with this, and now understand how incredibly important it is to achieve the feel you want. I'm sure his foils are great, but you won't catch me on a foil that doesn't allow me to mess around with the tail. Not just shimming, but also changing to different tails. I honestly can't believe racers put up with this when tiny details can be the difference between winning and losing. I would love to hear Mike's take on this. I believe it makes great sense for a mass market product to keep things simple. But high end racing is anything but mass market and simple. Yep, and same thing with fuse lengths. It's amazing how noticeable the differences with not only using various stab sizes with the same front wing, but then also how noticeably different the performance is changed using the same stab(s), but with different length fuses. Top that all off with a shim under either the front or back stab screw, and you've got a whole other feel to customize your ride depending the the size of yourself, your board, your style, your wave of the day, and so on. Hell, we were even shimming the rear screw of a prototype front wing while testing a couple years ago, that made iftgo from "blah" to "yeehaw!". A far cry from when I was pounding on a front and rear wing onto a fuse with a mallet, and then sticking the whole thing into a Tuttle box that I hoped was in the correct spot for the setup, and how I wanted it to ride.  PS. Great interview with Jason and Pono, Robert. Both of those guys (and their 3rd amigo Chad) are a hoot to hang out with....the laughter never stops! Great crew for sure.
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