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Messages - Califoilia

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Prone Foiling, Surf foiling, Pump Foiling / Re: Swim Missiles
« on: December 01, 2022, 11:01:47 AM »
I was down at Dave's on Tues., and your boards are looking awesome, and super light! The 15" track boxes are going to be great for dialing in just where your foil needs to be...which I gotta believe finding the exact prone position on a longer board is going to be a bit more complicated than finding it - or adjusting to it via foot placement - on my sup DW board (that also has 15"ers just in case :D).

Dave does a couple methods, this is my older 5'4x27" wing foil board where he cut through the entire board, glued in the stringers, and then straped everything all together again...

As I'm sure most here are aware, I've been using Dave's talents for quite a few years now. He's a wizard on the 3d software, and always manages to interpret my non-technical nomenclature into exactly what I have so perfectly pictured in my head. Here's our latest collaboration of a sup DW foil board....

7'10"x19.5"x115L...can't wait to get her in the water!

Foil SUP / Re: Dock Starting an 8-0 Sup
« on: November 04, 2022, 09:07:01 AM »
Great video Piros, and congratulations on your dock starting accomplishment!

The bloopers reel was/is inspiring, in that it shows what it really takes to accomplish anything...hard work and determination.

I have a new Kings Paddle Sports' first entry into the DW board foil board thing in the works (7'10x19.5x115L), and can't to give all these new foil adventures a try.

Thank you,! For your detailed reply on the new PC masts! But I already pulled the trigger on the 860 and it arrived in Mexico today. Hopefully, it will still be an upgrade over the alu.. Although I WILL be using it with the 999 and 1050 and 880 HPS.. I'm hoping the bending and torsion isn't too obvious.
If you're going to be using it for winging, it should be OK with minimal bending or torsional flex. I used the 76 carbon in the surf, where we're being a little more aggressive with our turns, and where the torsional flex was really not noticeable with the smaller wings we use (910b and smaller), but became noticeable with the 980 and larger wings. So as long as you're not trying to hit the whitewater to bank/turn back off of it when winging, you should be fine for the most part...but I'm just speculating, because I've never used the 860 carbon length at all.

.did you happen to take any pics or videos of the process of "potting" by any chance?
Here are a couple during the process of how the fuse needs to be leveled, and then how the mast must also then be leveled once you insert it into the fuse (acting as the mold) and then must stay that way while the epoxy cures completely...

Note: Those are two different masts above. The last one I leveled the fuse on my bench with the wood shims and tape, and found that I didn't need to use the clamps to help level it.

Also, notice the "painter's tape" around the mast just above the fuse connection. This is to keep the excess epoxy compound off the mast for easier wiping, and cleanup.

Think I. Could use tefgel. Instead of the release agent putty you mentioned?
I don't know for sure, but my guess would be no, simply because I don't know all of the ingredients in Tefgel, and if they might interfere with proper curing, and bonding of the epoxy onto the mast. Here's a website that gives you some other options the sound better than Tefgel.

Do you think that JB MARINE 2part epoxy is good enough?
That I don't know, but I personally wouldn't chance it since it's not the normal 2:1 mixing ratio used with regular surfboard epoxy, and is opaque, not transparent like regular resin.  My concern would be that it wouldn't release from the mold, and you might end up with a fuse permanently mounted to your mast. But that's just me being very cautious, and having used JB WELD, but not JB MARINE epoxy, and reading the literature of the two, they sound very similar.

If that's all you can find in your area, I would definitely a test mold and fit, and use whatever mold release you decide on to make sure that the JB MARINE will release from the mold, while staying permanently adhered to your released test part.

Here's the Amazon link to the mold release stuff I use...and this is the Amazon link to 2-part surfboard epoxy that should be more that enough to recast a mast, with enough leftover to do a board repair or two afterwards. This is the clickable link to Amazon for the Cabosil resin thickener, but that is a lot of Cabosil for such a small amount that you'll need, that I wouldn't bother with adding it. The epoxy alone should be strong enough to accomplish the leveling of the top of the mast...if you will even have to do it at all.

Thanx for any clarification!
You're welcome, let me know if you have any additional questions, happy to help where I can.

Did you not get the PM w/ pictures I sent you wrt to recasting the carbon masts? Or are you still looking for something else?

Prone Foiling, Surf foiling, Pump Foiling / Re: Swim Missiles
« on: October 18, 2022, 09:17:53 PM »
Sounds like the perfect scenario for a Foil Drive to get you moving and up flying.

Picked up a 5.5m Takoon V2 while up at the AWSI this year, and love it so much, that I've since bought a 4m and a 7m (to replace my F-One CWC 7m...that I loved, just like the Takoon that much more).

Apparently I'm not the only one loving them...

Are Takoon wings available in the US?  I'm not seeing any for sale online.
Yes, and no. They have the same direct to consumer business model as Gong eliminating the middleman, but unlike Gong they do have a US distribution center.

So no retailers in the US, but you can order them directly from their website, and depending on your location, it's a couple days delivery (you don't have to wait for your gear sitting for however long in US Customs like Gong stuff) took two days from order to my door in CA.

Several friends hopped in on my last order also, and are really happy with their new wings as well.   ;D

Most ordered the 7m for the light winds we have in SoCal most of the time, and 3 of us were out yesterday flying in 7-8 mph winds, with 9-10 mph gusts - with bigger foil wings (I was on the Axis 1060/425P), and had a blast!!

Picked up a 5.5m Takoon V2 while up at the AWSI this year, and love it so much, that I've since bought a 4m and a 7m (to replace my F-One CWC 7m...that I loved, just like the Takoon that much more).

Apparently I'm not the only one loving them...

Sorry to bring up this "old" topic but.. After 2 years of beating up my 19mm alu mast I'm looking at the carbon options.

We have the "newest" POWER carbon mast in 820cm BOTH in high modulus and "normal" carbon...

And the 860 cm mm carbon (red and black) carbon masts are... Somehow different besides being 40cm mm longer?
Completely different from the "older" 86cm (860mm) carbon mast. The new masts have the same chord width from baseplate to fuse connection, whereas the "older" carbon masts' chord tapered narrower from the baseplate to the fuse connection. The shape of the "Power Carbon" mast is also different than the "older" carbon, with the 19mm thickness area moved back some from the leading edge of the "PC" vs the "older" masts.

These improvements not only make the "PCs" much stiffer than the "older" carbons, but also faster, and track/turn better with the wider wings (ARTs and HPS) than is possible with the "older" carbon masts...especially as you go longer in mast length.

These are the older models?
Are THESE the ones that had too much play at the connection to the fuse?
I suck at epoxy work (and weigh over 90kilos and ride the 999 alot) so not really keen on buying something new that's wobbly from the outset.
Yes, some of the "older" carbon masts needed to be recast, and I've done 10-12 of them. It's really a pretty easy process if you have PVA mold release (available on Amazon), 2-part epoxy, Cabosil, black pigment (optional), and a good fuse to use as your "mold".

Thanx a million for anyone who can clear this up for me!
Hope that helps, and what you were looking for. If not, let me know what I missed.

Random / Re: Electric Surf Vehicles in 2020
« on: October 02, 2022, 01:03:03 PM »
My wife and I are in the market for a new car for her. Her engine on her 1999 Mitsubishi full size Montero LS finally blew a head gasket at 250K+ miles. Same engine, same tranny. That was a great snow SUV / Tank. Yesterday we went to the Orange County Car Show. Learn a lot about the variety of hybrid's and full electric's. The new thing is 'P'Hybrid's and they are near impossible to get right now. The 'P' stands for plug-in. Almost all current hybrids can not be plugged in. The engine and brakes charge the batteries only. Till the past year or so, anything that plugged in was fully electric. These new 'P'-Hybrid's have a gas tank filler on one side and and a charging port on the other. You can opt to drive in all electric only mode where depending on the manufacturer you can drive for around 30 miles on the battery. Then plug it in at home. So never needing gas around town. On the highway using gas / electric you'll get around 35mpg. The cars we are looking at are small to mid size SUV's. Right now some / most of the Toyota dealers are charging around $8k over msrp, because they can. A RAV4 'P'-hybrid is around 12 month preorder time, so we were told? KIA's the same thing. Honda... ditto. Plus they are about $10k more than a gas only model.

Of course it has to have a bike rack hitch mount and roof racks. May just get a Subaru 8) No hybrid...
Chevy had the P-hybrid Volt out from 2011-2019, but discontinued it favor of their fully electric Bolt. A foil buddy bought a used Volt several years ago to replace his gas guzzling Jeep something-or-other, and loves it. It really is a very nice ride.

I've been using the carbon to anodized aluminum connection for years, and can say that I've never had any problem with corrosion of either part. This includes anodized parts where the anodization has been worn or scratched off.

What I will see on occasion is a build up of salt around the top of the connection (even though all of my gear gets rinsed in fresh water as soon as I'm out of the water) that I at first mistook for corrosion. But after a simple wipe off (and ok, I'll admit it...a taste test), both sides of the connection were perfectly fine, and ready for use.

That's simply my anecdotal experience, w/o an actual scientific evidence to as to whether or not it's possible for corrosion to happen between the parts, and/or what can be done to prevent it if anything.

I think most of all of that is personal preference...I personally set my foil setups to be very front-footed. I prefer having to keep the nose down as I'm flying at speed for several reasons.

1. I want as much lift as possible on takeoff, to get the board off the water asap, and with the HA wings nowadays, that typically means they lift with with speed vs increased pitch like the lower aspect wings did. With that, I need to wait later for the wave to get steeper, and I drop into it more like a "skateboard ramp drop" as I call it, and want full control of the wing and nose of the board (pitch) with my front foot.

2. Having to keep pressure on my front foot when flying, also helps with turning, as I will simply put a little more pressure on the nose as I'm rolling the board over, and I have much more feel of the board as it's picking up speed in the turn, and it's simply a matter of applying or reducing pressure to keep it tracking through the turn level. Once I'm turning back up to the face or towards the whitewater to make my cutback, I simply release almost all pressure, and let the wing release completely as it then starts automatically climbing back out of the turn to get back to height immediately.

3. Being on a standup and with the higher aspect wings, it's almost imperative to have the pressure under my front foot when pumping. This is b/c with the higher aspect wings, we can no longer try to "Ollie" the board up, but have to be able to push the nose down at height just as the glide is beginning to dissipate  to pick up speed, and then almost immediately after that slight push down, I have to get off of the board right away to unweight it to allow the wing to then climb back up to height for the next glide period. If I'm back-footed, and/or further back on the board, I can never get it leveled off quickly enough, or be able to push the nose down to gain the necessary speed the higher aspect wings need to fly/glide correctly.

4. It should be noted that I also ride what had been AXIS's shortest fuse (they just released an even shorter one that I've not throw on my kit yet), and as such the shorter fuses are more pitchy than longer ones, and being on a 5'1 board, the only way I've found to be able to control that pitch is with very subtle adjustments with my front foot holding and releasing pressure with it quickly and somewhat often.

JMO and what I personally do...OMMV as will their personal preferences and feels while foiling.

Wingsurfing, Windfoiling, Wingfoiling, Wing SUP / Re: Axis 1099
« on: June 30, 2022, 02:17:48 PM »
The setup is just a little more twitchy and less forgiving on the pump - but still pumps perfectly fine.  The surfing is just so much better and the downsides are barely a downgrade.
When you get your new Power Carbon High Mod mast, that "twitchy and less forgiving on the pump" feeling will go away. The new masts are freakin' incredible!

I alternated tails between KDFoils 12, 13.5 and 15 as well as Axis 350P tail (very similar to 13.5" KD).

The 15" with 1099 is a dog even though its a really great tail
The 13.5" and 350P ride fantastic and really make the foil super fun
The 12" is a game-changer
I've not ridden the KD tails, but have found that going smaller on the tails with the ARTs (and now even my BSC wings) is where it's at. Have been on the 350 with them, and next outing going to throw on the 325P, and who knows, maybe the 300P at some point.

Also, if you ever down this way, let's get you demoing the new "Advanced" fuses...they too are "game-changers" as well as you say.

Well this is kind of a combo reply to two threads...this one here, and really the Sano is an unfoilable salad garden one.

So still getting tangled in the weeds at 4.9' high tide the last Friday, figured that if I wanted to stay in the water (with my sanity), a change was going to have to be made, and pulled the Laird/Pearson Arrow out of the rafters where she had waited patiently for 5 years, and threw her in the back of the van.

Yesterday was she made it out of the van when at the 3.5' high tide and watching the only two foilers out (amongst the 12 or so SUPers) spend 90% of their time stuck in the grass, it seemed pointless to even venture out "winged up"...even though the little 2-3' peelers looked like perfect foil waves.  :-\

Well let's just say that it's only sorta "like riding a bike". Without the big foil keel hanging under the board, the wobbles were sumpin' fierce, and just paddling out to the lineup, I must have looked like a baby giraffe trying to take its first steps as I tried to balance the board on the way out.

Once out, it was more like trying to turn a battleship than a surfboard to turn for the incoming wave, and once on the dang thing...what an eerie feeling it was having the entire length of my 5'1 foil board way out in front of me while trying to keep the nose from pearling, and to get the thing somewhat turned and headed down the line. 

It took a few waves to gain at least a little familiarity with her again, and she did treat me well enough that it was enjoyable enough all things considered...but man, I sure did feel like a kook out there for most of the session, and wow I'm sore. Didn't know that "sup muscles" were so different than "foil muscles". :o ;D

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