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Topics - surfinJ

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Gear Talk / GoPro 8 9 or 10?
« on: July 14, 2022, 09:27:31 AM »
So I just deposited my 7 in Davy Jones locker. Seems like the newer models have some nice advances with stabilization and battery.
For use with a mouth mount what advice can any of you fellow video’ers send my way?

Sessions / Some room to play
« on: June 28, 2022, 12:56:04 PM »
Just turned 62 and I feel gifted to still be healthy and surfing. Summer season is upon us over here and to freshen things up I have gone back to single fins for the longboard.
This is the 7inch, smallest from my collection. Just the minimalist size to keep it loose in the small swells.
As I hit it early that morning, the 2 peaks were already filling up. Walking towards the less populated one I noticed an lesser but empty wave in between the two.

Sessions / Big burgers
« on: June 01, 2022, 08:22:38 AM »
There was a lot of wave energy that was hard to wire. A small group of short boarders were under me to the right getting nice in between the set waves but had to duck dive big whitewater on the sets. Not an option on the sup. Outside the sets had a nice drop but then went fat. But sunny and offshore so..

Off the quads and liking it. Quobbas on loan from a friend and liking them too.

Sessions / Longboard fun
« on: November 03, 2021, 11:36:15 AM »
Two sessions from the same swell. Small wave days are a blast, high wave count and no beatings.

Sessions / Summer pulse
« on: August 14, 2021, 11:17:57 PM »
The tourists this summer have had much rain and wind and the surfers among them
were mostly screwed with either small period chop or unsurfable XL mess.

Well this day that all changed and everywhere lit up. This spot starts to close out when the period starts to get longer and this day was at the limit, @11s.

Not being able to duck dive is tricky. If for whatever reason I end up in foamy water it's back in to and then a walk back up the beach.

*No waterlife creatures were injured in the making of this video.

Sessions / April fool
« on: April 11, 2021, 12:42:42 AM »
This is the morning after last vid with the swell down to fun size.  Keeping to the crowd avoidance theme I went past the already filling nice left, past the last beach access and found an empty bank.
Then, with a life of water experience I took the kook path to the wave.  Or put another way, lazily ignore the current and go a bit to deep on the first set that comes.  And after the wave runs away from me, start a stubborn fight in the foamy interior of the break on my 120l board.  An hour long ugly struggle.
Finally I came all the way around the back to snag a few.  Hope you like it.

Sessions / Not all peaches and cream
« on: April 04, 2021, 06:25:02 AM »
So the swell was at that certain size that on this straight sand coastline translates to a handful of spots becoming packed.  After an injury timeout my patience/capacity to deal with the crowd is way down. So branching out away from the crowd is in order.

The paddle out consisted of looking for a crack in the foam wall. No channels. Wait just before the dump zone, about waist to chest deep and when it looked possible to make the prone sprint paddle the 30-40 feet necessary to clear the zone.  Multiple smash backs and moving further up the beach had me beat and about to give up when just like that some calm spot let me pass.

Getting back in started with a prayer while waiting just outside the shore pound. Only about 15’ from the sand.  The idea being wait for a long set and paddle in on the back of the last wave.
Well after the wait I went and got smacked anyway by a random in between wave.

All in all I prefer the natural hassles. 

Sessions / freedom II
« on: January 31, 2021, 04:56:32 AM »
Again on the escape.

Sessions / Freedom at the freezing point
« on: January 22, 2021, 01:07:14 AM »
So for just a bit, FREE from the current stressed out tension filled existence.

Sessions / Déconfinement
« on: November 29, 2020, 10:41:20 AM »
Or in other words free to grab your board and charge out there. 

But I have found being locked up at home leaves me a bit weak and soft. 
The first time in the spring was easy as it was warm and small.
This time is big and cold.  First two days of freedom looked like this.

Sessions / Fresh fall swells
« on: October 11, 2020, 05:44:24 AM »
So weeks of heavy swell, wind and rain have rearranged the beautiful bank to something less perfect.

But also washed away are the summer crowds and attention from non locals.

Sessions / Too long ...
« on: August 28, 2020, 10:32:55 AM »

Sessions / Summer fun
« on: August 27, 2020, 01:13:08 AM »
Nothing epic, just some warm fun. And this is not a specific board plug. Just the result of working with a shaper to get a shape just right.

Sessions / Filling the reservoir
« on: August 17, 2020, 03:06:59 AM »
The stoke reservoir that is.  The days of big drops, power turns and hollow speed runs, I remember those days.  That stokes for sure.

For me though the average or less day has nothing to sear into the memory.  But it is still the most surfing I do, waiting for the next...

What got me as a kid on those first surfs, and what I can still get now at 60, is the glide.  And I just can’t get enough.

This was one of those forgettable surfs.

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