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Topics - surfinJ

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Sessions / Point break love
« on: April 08, 2019, 04:59:10 PM »
So on what will most likely be my last visit here due impending retirement, I guess I got lucky. Thanks to Tomís very cool site advice I was clearly able to judge where to find some of the NW swell that wasnít getting blocked by the Channel Islands.

Ventura was getting some and you boys in San Diego definitely scored. But being on a mostly beachbreak diet at home I decided to immerse myself in the tasty little rock point 15 min from the hotel.

Special thanks to the Olympic board shop for the excellent rental. A Rawson 8-6x31
Impala SS. A slightly blown up version of the custom I have at home.

Two mornings spending the complete low to high tide cycle in the water. First day, Sunday was pretty crowded, but today was a charm. Even a bit alone in between the dawn patrollers and the morning crew.

The spot is, I think a no-go zone for sups judging by the WTF reaction from a few. One of these did point away when I made eye contact. But yea, I know from experience that if I donít give them anything, they will most probably not say anything. And they didnít. That meant staying the whole time the furthest inside taking only what got past and never getting in the way. Point break scraps are still choice morsels.

And for a short period alone and then with a couple of chill surfers this morning I got some great set waves.

SoCal / West swell?
« on: April 05, 2019, 12:11:19 PM »
Hi guys,
About to do a quick pass thru, Sunday and Monday. The swell will be long period direct west about 3-5í with favorable winds in the am.

Any tips for spots that pick up the a west swell?  San Clemente to county line past Malibu is about what Iíll range.


Random / Country rippin dutch style
« on: September 29, 2018, 04:03:19 AM »
Find it where you can. 

General Discussion / Solo shot problems
« on: July 12, 2018, 10:02:37 AM »
This is a hot vid and while his camera worked this time, later in the thread you see
there arise some problems. 
Hey surfercook, maybe you can go over there and help these guys.

Sessions / One wave
« on: July 12, 2018, 08:45:45 AM »
This was a long 5m+ edit but a cool new mod makes this possible.

Actually link is getting hijacked by this vigilink crew?
Anybody here can figure this out?
You just have to click skip add and go to vid and it works.

Random / St Elmoís Fire
« on: June 24, 2018, 05:22:18 AM »
Nighttime, within 10deg of the equator and convective weather close by producing the rare effect of St Elmoís Fire. This is the surrounding static electricity arcing on the outside of the cockpit window.

Random / Rare snowfall
« on: February 28, 2018, 06:28:33 AM »
4Ē   A once in 30 year event here. And yes, those were the only two guys out anywhere.

Share the Stoke / The joy of it
« on: February 24, 2018, 05:01:08 PM »

Random / the art of flying
« on: December 04, 2017, 12:48:14 PM »

Random / 20s over Greenland
« on: July 12, 2017, 01:14:54 PM »

Share the Stoke / The long and short of it
« on: July 12, 2017, 12:16:22 PM »

Sessions / Sunday traffic
« on: June 28, 2017, 01:29:48 AM »
If you are a socially adept person a crowded lineup is hell. Playing nice won't get you waves. So we search out the empty spots where we can hunt waves and not offend.

But now in the summer lull of the years swell cycles, on a Sunday, entering the fray is what we do.

Ran into Colas and his camera crew/charming wife on the beach after his early go.

Sessions / Solstice surf
« on: June 24, 2017, 12:00:13 AM »
I'm 57, 6', 200lbs and a goofyfoot. The camera is in my mouth giving the view of what I see. The board is 10-6x31 and a thin 148l. Edit is chronological.

Nice small summer swell. The next peak over had 30 and up to 50+ surfers but this peak was enjoyable. 
When the board disappears from view I've stepped up to the nose, some nice noserides here. The last ride was a vid success showing some pigdog action, in a full squat grabbing the left rail to hang on.

Sessions / Less is more
« on: June 05, 2017, 10:09:45 PM »
So with nice conditions and the name spots packed I decided to slum it again.
Not a lot of waves for the time spent, but more than enough headspace to enjoy.

Sessions / Still fun
« on: May 17, 2017, 10:42:47 PM »
The web cam showed Colas's spot full of a black dot infestation.  My other spot would be likewise overrun. The day was just too nice. So even though someone seems to have stolen the sandbanks from my local, it was....

Surfing in a crowd or alone, fighting for quality, or enjoying the water and session on a lesser wave
Seems like an easy choice.

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