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Topics - surfinJ

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Sessions / April fool
« on: April 11, 2021, 12:42:42 AM »
This is the morning after last vid with the swell down to fun size.  Keeping to the crowd avoidance theme I went past the already filling nice left, past the last beach access and found an empty bank.
Then, with a life of water experience I took the kook path to the wave.  Or put another way, lazily ignore the current and go a bit to deep on the first set that comes.  And after the wave runs away from me, start a stubborn fight in the foamy interior of the break on my 120l board.  An hour long ugly struggle.
Finally I came all the way around the back to snag a few.  Hope you like it.

Sessions / Not all peaches and cream
« on: April 04, 2021, 06:25:02 AM »
So the swell was at that certain size that on this straight sand coastline translates to a handful of spots becoming packed.  After an injury timeout my patience/capacity to deal with the crowd is way down. So branching out away from the crowd is in order.

The paddle out consisted of looking for a crack in the foam wall. No channels. Wait just before the dump zone, about waist to chest deep and when it looked possible to make the prone sprint paddle the 30-40 feet necessary to clear the zone.  Multiple smash backs and moving further up the beach had me beat and about to give up when just like that some calm spot let me pass.

Getting back in started with a prayer while waiting just outside the shore pound. Only about 15í from the sand.  The idea being wait for a long set and paddle in on the back of the last wave.
Well after the wait I went and got smacked anyway by a random in between wave.

All in all I prefer the natural hassles. 

Sessions / freedom II
« on: January 31, 2021, 04:56:32 AM »
Again on the escape.

Sessions / Freedom at the freezing point
« on: January 22, 2021, 01:07:14 AM »
So for just a bit, FREE from the current stressed out tension filled existence.

Sessions / Dťconfinement
« on: November 29, 2020, 10:41:20 AM »
Or in other words free to grab your board and charge out there. 

But I have found being locked up at home leaves me a bit weak and soft. 
The first time in the spring was easy as it was warm and small.
This time is big and cold.  First two days of freedom looked like this.

Sessions / Fresh fall swells
« on: October 11, 2020, 05:44:24 AM »
So weeks of heavy swell, wind and rain have rearranged the beautiful bank to something less perfect.

But also washed away are the summer crowds and attention from non locals.

Sessions / Too long ...
« on: August 28, 2020, 10:32:55 AM »

Sessions / Summer fun
« on: August 27, 2020, 01:13:08 AM »
Nothing epic, just some warm fun. And this is not a specific board plug. Just the result of working with a shaper to get a shape just right.

Sessions / Filling the reservoir
« on: August 17, 2020, 03:06:59 AM »
The stoke reservoir that is.  The days of big drops, power turns and hollow speed runs, I remember those days.  That stokes for sure.

For me though the average or less day has nothing to sear into the memory.  But it is still the most surfing I do, waiting for the next...

What got me as a kid on those first surfs, and what I can still get now at 60, is the glide.  And I just canít get enough.

This was one of those forgettable surfs.

Sessions / Longboard and alarm clock
« on: August 07, 2020, 11:46:35 PM »
So this is whatís needed to beat the anti-surf conspiracy of small summer swell,
morning high tide and the afternoon onshore blow out.

Sessions / Earlybird
« on: July 03, 2020, 06:21:52 AM »
While I missed filming a bunch of good ones by not getting the camera in the mouth quick enough, got some.  Enjoy.

SUP General / Nazarť
« on: February 11, 2020, 08:31:16 AM »
So here I am watching the tow-in contest from Portugal,in and out of the house all day. This last bit, maybe the final heat, donít know for sure as the commentary has dropped for a while, has just shown an accident. A bad one. A surfer or driver is down.

I am watching the twitter feed and can not yet find out who?

Random / Radio Garden
« on: November 10, 2019, 02:19:17 AM »
I just stumble across this gem. A interactive globe with local radio stations you can click on. For travelers or music lovers a treasure hunting place.

Sessions / Opening day
« on: October 07, 2019, 11:42:01 PM »
So after a few clean and uncrowded days at this spot the core of the swell hit as well as 20-30 hungry ones with guns.  Bumpy and busy would describe it. The first significant waves of the winter season had me anxious but it was the crowd that put me off my game. So instead of the big wave board and entering the pack, I opted for the performance longboard and would play the fringes. 

My custom Sunova Surf is the ticket to calm the nerves. Mobility and stability.
Paddlesurfhawaii quads L, 12í long, thick and hand tied leash from StayCovered. And a kite surf vest with an inner belt to keep it from getting pulled over my head in a wipeout.
When I first paddled out I tried under the pack but after taking a bomb set on the head, testing my kit, I retreated to the inside peak.  And got lucky with a photog.

Sessions / Point break love
« on: April 08, 2019, 04:59:10 PM »
So on what will most likely be my last visit here due impending retirement, I guess I got lucky. Thanks to Tomís very cool site advice I was clearly able to judge where to find some of the NW swell that wasnít getting blocked by the Channel Islands.

Ventura was getting some and you boys in San Diego definitely scored. But being on a mostly beachbreak diet at home I decided to immerse myself in the tasty little rock point 15 min from the hotel.

Special thanks to the Olympic board shop for the excellent rental. A Rawson 8-6x31
Impala SS. A slightly blown up version of the custom I have at home.

Two mornings spending the complete low to high tide cycle in the water. First day, Sunday was pretty crowded, but today was a charm. Even a bit alone in between the dawn patrollers and the morning crew.

The spot is, I think a no-go zone for sups judging by the WTF reaction from a few. One of these did point away when I made eye contact. But yea, I know from experience that if I donít give them anything, they will most probably not say anything. And they didnít. That meant staying the whole time the furthest inside taking only what got past and never getting in the way. Point break scraps are still choice morsels.

And for a short period alone and then with a couple of chill surfers this morning I got some great set waves.

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