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Topics - willi

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1
The Shape Shack / 14' Open water rocker / bottom shape help
« on: September 14, 2019, 01:21:10 PM »
Moving up from  12.6 to 14 and have been lusting after the Infinity Blackfish style board --so have the outline done and looking for advice on how much tali and nose rocker would be good  for choppy -
what would the bottom look like from those more experienced !!!

the rough water boards I have built have  2 3/4" tail / pretty flat in the middle and 2 1/2 in the nose and are wider 28" for the Key West event and  Florida West coast pesty chop we get .
any help / opinions would be appreciated

pics of my 12.6 attached

aloha

willi

2
The Shape Shack / Rocker for narrow or wide race boards ?
« on: February 28, 2018, 07:44:55 AM »
Hoping no questions are stupid --
I shaped a 24' x 12.6 and it is as quick as I thought it would be -- copied rocker (nose / tail) from several other race boards / I used a wide tail for stability
Wanting to build a wider board with round rails for the nasty Key West race this April and am not sure if the rocker should be more or less for a board say 29" wide with a wide tail &
flat bottom >>>  as I find hand shaping a concave challenging

any input would be appreciated

aloha

willi

3
I have a 2013 ---12'6 Fanatic Falcon --the glass model --
When I paddle it at speed and look back--- the water coming off the tail is turbulent --not smooth (moving around does not change this)
 I shaped a 12'6'' race board with a little wider tail --and at paddling speed the water is smooth coming off the tail -- (even a little rooster tail )
The board I built has a little less rocker on the nose end-- a finer entry-- and a flatter bottom --still does well in chop --soooo

I am in the early stages of building another 12'6'' and wonder --- which is better --- I would think the smooth water off the tail would be better / faster --
what would you strive for ??? -

Conditions -- West Coast Florida -- slop chop up to 2' sometimes with some flat water --

Also, I have heard a roundish bottom is faster than a flat bottom but more tippy ???

any comments would be appreciated--

Aloha & Happy Holidays

willi ']


4
The Shape Shack / Deck delamination --How to Fix?
« on: September 01, 2013, 07:02:44 PM »
Still haven't figured out why the deck on a race board I made delaminated.

It is a spot about 16" x 24" --kind of a v shape -- anyhow -- it is the only part of the deck to puff up.
When I saw it I put a screw driver into the deck to let the air out --
The deck is natural color -- so no hot red or black.
And no I didn't put a vent in -my stupidity -- there I said IT  ;D

So the question is how would be the best way to fix it --
My idea is to drill a bunch of holes in the deck and squeegee resin into the holes -- then I would vacuum bag the deck down --

it there something I don't see here --

any opinion would be appreciated
 ----;]

willi
(I should know better)
I guess I will have to put a layer of glass over the deck section after the repair is done to keep the holles from leaking --

5
The Shape Shack / New Cork Top Build
« on: October 10, 2012, 04:39:18 PM »
Here are a few pictures of my latest build -- 12' x 32 x 5.5 -- I use this shape to teach Stand Up on as it is very sable and will float in excess of 200 lbs.
I use 2 x 6.5 s type cloth on each side --free lapped and vacuum bagged to 9 on my vacuum guage. I find much more vacuum and the 1.5 lb c bead foam I use starts to get little squash spots in it --under 10 is good. I use soome latex paint to decorate the blank after I skackle it --careful not to have blobs of paint as after the board is bagged the glass is flat with no voids --which results in just about zero voids.
The cork deck --idea is complements to Drew --thanks Drew --it is awesome non skid and the cork also was vacuum bagged --then sanded to natural --- looks cool --I think.
The bow and stern attachments I get from Gulf to Bay SUP (gulftobaystandup.com)
they stick up a bit  but are easy to attach and strong.
For the handle I use regular leash plugs glued to ABS circles. (like a big washer) This way when I make a hole in the board (i seal the cavity with epoxy) I don't have a seam like regular leash plugs have between the plug and the glass skin. This method is very strong and will not leak like some leash plugs do.
I like the sanded look -- it is easier to hang on to -- and faster from what I hear.
SO what do you all think ?
My next build will be a race board 12'6" with carbon strips and a cork stand area, with wave piercing bow.

Paddle hard --live easy
willi ;;]

6
With the  glassing of my first race board coming up -- I have been wondering about divinycell and using it to make the deck / stand area tougher but also to stiffen the board enough to bypass carbon fiber tape along the rails.
I understand Divinycell comes in different densities and I am looking at using an 1/8" H80 density thinking that higher density than say a lighter H45 will absorb less resin because of the density
The H80 maybe will weigh a little more than say H45 but the increased density will absorb less resin - Right? -- So the weight trade off I thnk is worth it / less resin to keep the weight --
I use 2 layers x 6.5 oz close weave glass top and botton -- and vacuum bag the laminate to keep things light and add strength that bagging creates --
Can anyone give me some insight into the Divinycell arena --
Any other guidance / comments will be appreciated --
Aloha to you all -- what a great Tribe!!!

willi

7
The Shape Shack / SUP Rail Bands - whats the right way???
« on: August 17, 2011, 11:12:20 AM »
I am shaping my fourth 12' x 32'' x 5'' sup board and am having a hard time getting a visual (I am visual / hands on) grip on the right way to layout the deck rail bands.
A picture or SUP shaping video would be great ---

Any suggestiongs from some pro shapers would be most appreciated!!!

Thank you in anticipation of some help --

willi

8
SUP General / Air expansion / delamination / whats the reason???
« on: July 30, 2011, 06:39:33 PM »
I am a beginning builder of SUP boards in Florida --Yes, it is hot, and the sun unmerciful.
I have had two boards delam under the deck pad. Big bubbles - the epoxy & glass just pulled right off the EPS --wow --I thought what is goin on --yes, it was my fault I left them in the sun for a bit--(board color left natural)-BUT
 as I contacted two folks in the EPS foam industry to talk about going to 2 lb instead of 1.5 --figuring there would be less air in the foam to explode.
But, was told the air is encapsulated into the foam and there should be no expansion of the air in the foam. Two seperate experts -- two seperate conversations. Hmmm?
COULD it be the deck mat? I had a darker blue-ish / white / etc on the boards -- at my shop I put the deck mat out in the sun and man did it get hot -- but the deck mat also expanded
(I measured it before and after the sun teatment ) The mat is EVA foam 1/4 inch thick adhered with contact cement. No grooves in it.
The second board that blew up --I had sealed the EPS with two coats of epoxy (makes for a nice working surface) so there was good adhesion on the second one.
OK mates, lets hear about it because I am stumped --As I just wrote in the Certification blog -knowledge is power. I am listening.


9
The Shape Shack / Need some glassing tips on close weave glass
« on: June 27, 2011, 08:09:48 PM »
I bought 190 yards of 38'' 6.5 oz cloth. It is a tight weave cloth and wets out OK ---
Great deal,
 but I am haviing trouble getting the fabric to lay flat ---when I squeegie i am getting some ripples in the cloth -- could it be i am leaving too much resin behind.
The cloth also keeps bubbles which are hard to get out --
I am using RR epoxy --slow kick

any ideas would be appreciated --

10
The Shape Shack / Tint tips
« on: June 09, 2011, 07:34:35 PM »
I am building SUPs for a rental fleet & have glassed two in natural --
Would like to tint the next one -- Must I do it in the lam coat ? If I do - I have to tape and cut lap RIGHT ???
I usually free lap and I see that not giving me uniform color-
So can I use the tint in the fill coat / hot coat ?
Thanks for all comments

SW Florida

wil

11
The Shape Shack / Displacement board vs stock board
« on: May 13, 2011, 08:42:49 PM »
Looking for some opinions on what is the difference between displacement board and a stock board ----a race I am going to do lets stock boards race for awards---
no displacement boards for awards ---being a sailor displacement hulls are easy --is it the same thing -- board with a v and race canoe type bow??? Dispalcement?
There are some quick almost flat bottom  / slight v boards out there -- that might not be called stock --


12
The Shape Shack / Major Delamination
« on: April 25, 2011, 08:48:39 AM »
Glassed my first board shaped from 1.5 eps --- 2 x 6.5 layers glass rail wrapped -- used Resin Research Resin -- I am an experienced glass head boat builder ---soooooo
-- all  is fine till I put it on top of my car with a darker eva deck pad -- major delamination 12'' x 24'' on deck --so my plan was to drill a hole in the deck pour in some epoxy --rotate board so it moves around and weight down the deck and all is well ---
BUT ___ I Shine a Flashlight in the hole --looking at the foam core and it looked like it was honey combed -- almost like it melted -- the resin manufacturer told me the board got so hot on the top of my car the foam melted ???? Really ???
Any insight in this ---thanks ahead of time

aloha

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