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Topics - sflinux

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Classifieds / 2015 Starboard WidePoint 8'10" Carbon SUP
« on: January 16, 2023, 05:45:21 PM »
If anyone is looking for a Starboard Widepoint 8'10" SUP, I have one for sale.
The Carbon construction is bomber at 18#.
Dimensions 8'10" x 32" x 4.2" 140L
Has connections for tail block handle installed.
Board is located in SF Bay Area.

Luke covers the complete build of a DIY wood core hydrofoil wing set with a DIY aluminum fuselage in a youtube series.
Here is a video of Luke testing his first v1 hydrofoil:
Her is a video of v2 test by Ryan Parsons:

Luke provided free plans of his v3 here:

How to build:
#How to Build a Hydrofoil: Overview, Planning and Design (Video 1/15)
#How to build a Hydrofoil: Machine and Cutting Wing Outline's (Video 2/15)
How to Build a Hydrofoil: Carving The Wing's Foil Shape (Video 3/15)
How to Build a Hydrofoil: Wing Resin Sealer Coat (Video 4/15)
How to build a hydrofoil: Fibreglassing the Bottom Of Wings (Video 5/15)
How to build a Hydrofoil: Screw Holes and Trailing Edge Filling (Video 6/15)
How to Build a Hydrofoil: Top Of Wing's Fibreglass Lamination (Video 7/15)
How to Build a Hydrofoil: Wings Resin "Hot" Filler Coat 8/15
How to Build a Hydrofoil: Foil Wing Final Sand & Connection Holes (Video 9/15)
How to Build a Hydrofoil: Fuselage - Design and drilling holes (Video10/15)
How to Build a Hydrofoil: Fuselage - Shaping The Aluminum (Video 11/15)
How to Build a Hydrofoil: Fuselage - Tapping Threads (Video 12/15)
Coming Soon:
13. How to Build a Hydrofoil: Fuselage - Routing (Part 13)
14. How to Build a Hydrofoil: Assembly and Final Points. (Part 14)
15. How to Build a Hydrofoil: Riding it for the First Time. (Part 15)

These plans are most appropriate for kitesurfing.  But the build process is applicable to any size wing. 

I thought Iíd share what seems to be a quick and easy way to measure the area of a fin.  This could just be easily be used the area of a hydrofoil.

Futures fins typically lists the dimensions of their fins in the specification section.  In that youíll find Area, Height, Base, & foil.  I find this very useful when comparing different fins.  But not all of my fins are futures.  How do you find the area of a fin that is not published? There are countless ways of measuring area.  But in the computer age, I wondered if there was an easy way to do this using a computer, that may actually be quicker. 

If you work with microscopes you may be familiar with a program called ImageJ.  In that program, you set a reference length, then you take a measurement.  Here is an example video:
Available free here:

To measure the area of a fin we need: a picture with a reference length.
To test this program, I took a picture of a fin on graph paper (10 squares/inch).
#If you have a printer, you can print your own graph paper, see
#note graph paper isnít necessary, just convenient.
I pre-measured the height of the fin, and the length of the base with a ruler.  I opened the picture in Image J. 
With the straight line tool, I drew from top of the fin to the base (base is where the fin meets the glass, ie. Top of fin box).

Analyze/Set Scale, I type in the known distance (height of fin).
With the straight line tool, I drew from the front of the fin to the back of the fin along the base.
Analyze/Measure: Look at the length of each measurement to see that it agrees with base length.
To measure the area, you select the freehand tool and trace the fin. 

Since my fin is on graph paper, I have reference for area.  I traced around blocks of 10 squares by 10 squares.  I used the zoom feature for this.
Analyze/Measure:  This gave me the area I was expecting, cool.
Next measure the area of the fin:
With the freehand tool, carefully trace around the perimeter of the fin. 
Analyze/Measure:  Look at the Area in the units of your measurement.  Mine was in the ballpark of what I was expecting compared to fins of known area.

Next I looked at an online picture of a Need Essential fin.  They only publish the height and base lengths, but do have a picture of the fin next to a scale (i.e ruler).  Can Image J be used to measure the area of a screenshot?
I took a screenshot of fin with the scale.  I opened the screenshot in image J.  With the straight line tool, I measured from the top of the fin to the base. 
Analyze/Set Scale, I enter in the known distance (height of fin).
With the straight line tool, I drew from front of the fin to the back of the fin along the base.
Analyze/Measure: Look at the length of each measurement to see that it agrees with base length.
Next I selected the freehand tool and traced the fin (donít include the area of the fin that is inside the fin box.
Analyze/Measure:  Look at the Area in the results measurement.  Again the measurement was in the ballpark of what I was expecting.

If you want to easily convert units, check out:

#At first I looked into programs like vector drawing programs like Inkscape.  Too complicated and takes too long.  Then I looked at CAD programs like Librecad, same problem. 

If you have an easy way of measuring area that you like to use, please feel free to share.  And happy new year.

Training, Diet, and Fitness / Sciatica pain: What to avoid and what to do
« on: December 29, 2022, 01:55:53 PM »
Knight Wing's recent post which led me to this video:

In it there is a link to this video for sciatica pain:

There is also a video for inner knee pain (see first video for link).

I fractured my sacrum two years ago which led to a year of sciatica pain.  What I noticed is stretching made it worse.  Over time I found that strengthening the glutes helped.  These exercises look like a gentle way to strengthen the glutes without aggravating the lower back.

SUP General / SUP Surf Volume and Width - how much is too much?
« on: December 28, 2022, 09:13:12 PM »
sp25 8í8 "138l [gf=1.39]
sp25 8í11" 150l [gf=1.52]
sp25 9í5" 177l [gf=1.79]
sp24 9í7Ē 173l  [gf=1.74]
gf= guild factor (volume of board in L/ weight of rider in kg)

beginner [gf = 2.2-3]
novice/int in rough conditions [gf= 1.8- 2.2]
adv surfing [gf = 1.3-1.8]
expert surfing/pro [gf = 1.1-1.3]

My two cents is Rick's board test agrees with "SUP Board Volume Recommendation".  A 99kg rider may be comfortable a range 49L for an advanced surfer, 39L of range for an intermediate surfer, and 29L of range for an expert (or more for a rider who rides negative volume).

In my experience where you start feeling volume distribution is in rough conditions when water & wind is pushing on the board.  In offshore wind you can feel the width of wider boards.  Shorter riders can get by with less width imo.

Random / Storing stinky gear
« on: February 06, 2022, 01:31:44 PM »
I got to the point that I don't want to smell surf gear in my vehicle  This is the the solution that I came up with, Rubbermaid Action Packer:
For now I am mainly storing my booties and less than fresh rash guards, along with misc other gear.  The 8 gal can easily fit the Neosport Explorer boots (and all of my other foot gear).

With SUP/surfboards it is challenging to use storage boxes on top of the vehicle.  I looked into getting a hitch and hitch storage but the price started going up fast, whereas this Rubbermaid Action Packer fulfills the job of keeping my vehicle from getting stinky.
I still hang dry my gear, but put the booties back in the action packer to keep odors down.
I like using limestone neoprene products in the winter as they dry much faster.

The Shape Shack / Gorilla glue diy pour foam
« on: January 18, 2022, 05:12:03 PM »
I have been using this technique to make gorilla glue foam:
I like that the gorilla glue cures faster and has smaller bubbles.
But sometimes, it expands more than I would like.
I recently came across this instructable, where Andy Callaway mixes gorilla glue with corn starch:
This gives a rigid product that is fairly easy to spread, and dries with a very rigid surface.
I also experimented with premixing the corn starch with water, or vinegar, but that lead to an inferior product.  I definitely recommend just adding corn starch neat.  I would say the benefit of this technique is it doesn't foam as much as the above (vinegar/baking soda) technique, which could be useful for thin patches (< 1 cm) where you don't want to waste a lot of epoxy & q cell, which can be a little runny.  The jury is out on which is lighter.
I was trying to make a product similar to this foam putty:
Inspired by this repair video:

Random / Omicron is here
« on: January 12, 2022, 04:50:43 PM »
In California, we are seeing a spike of cases since New Years.  I would like to share my opinion in the chance that it may help prevent you and your loved ones from getting this virus.

I have been an essential worker since covid started and always felt safe wearing a mask.  That is no longer the case with omicron. 

What we are seeing is omicron spread like the flu, regardless of mask compliance, vaccinations/ boosters.  The eye opening trend i am seeing first hand is:
1) Omicron is not prevented with regular masks.
2) Omicron is not prevented by vaccination. 
3) Omicron is not prevented by the booster.

I am of the opinion that the best prevention of omicron is wearing a n95 or kn95 mask.  If you don't have access to a n95/kn95 mask, I would encourage you to double mask.  Help prevent another lockdown by preventing the spread of omicron.

Did you go anywhere yesterday and spend >5 min around someone who may have been exposed in the last 48-72h?  In 48 h, you may start showing symptoms.  In 72 h, you will have a fever.  Early symptoms are body aches, feeling tired, runny nose.  The 3 day incubation comes with a fever.  The days to follow are a sore throat which gradually gets worse but may start to show relief 6 days after the initial fever.

Friends don't let friends get omicron.

Gear Talk / Stinky booties (high top), drying hack
« on: October 04, 2021, 10:27:13 AM »
This is my current approach for high top booties:
Hang dry, allow for evaporation. 

1) Use scissors to poke a hole every 1/2".  Peel off bottom.  Slide the cup into the ankle cuff of the boot (small side first).  Obviously do not use a lid.
2)  Hang dry (I hang by toes to encourage water to travel to heels).
Benefits: It appears to allow for evaporation.
My previous approach was to fold the ankle booties, then hand dry by toes.  Eventually, the boot would smell and I would pour in a little ammonia.  The ammonia would remove the smell but I am not convinced that it is good for the glue.
p.s. Another approach is to fold the boot inside out.

Gear Talk / Resource: What length should my SUP paddle be?
« on: September 22, 2021, 08:05:55 AM »
I am in the market for a paddle.  Over the years I have been going shorter.  This has helped my shoulder, but at the expense of my lower back.  Now I ask myself the question, do I continue to go shorter for more performance?  Or do I go longer to spare my back?  I ask myself the question, where am I in relative paddle length to my height, compared to other riders?  I came across this great resource by BlackProjectSup.

They break down discipline, rider height, and volume of board (which affects how high you are above the waterline).
The data reaffirmed where I have landed on my own with paddle length.
Thought others might find this chart useful.
p.s.  Also I would like to thank Supthecreek for his valuable input.

Technique / Prone paddling out over breaking waves
« on: September 20, 2021, 11:11:57 AM »
Anyone use this technique?
You place the back of the blade against the board at an angle to the nose of the board, and the shaft goes under your shoulder.  You sit on the board, with the nose up, and pop over the wave.

Or how about this technique, Method A?
You place the blade between your legs and lie on the shaft with the handle near the nose of the board.

The technique that I have been using is Method B here.
You place the front of the blade against the board and make a sandwich with your chest and the board, with the handle facing the nose of the board.
I tend to use this technique when there is strong onshore wind and the interval between waves is short.
But I have discovered a flaw in this method B technique.  I recently discovered a crack in my carbon shaft, (located on the side of the front of the blade).  Theory as to how the damage occurred to follow.   Next, I reverted to DIY wooden paddles.  While going over a wave, the nose tilts up, then as I drop down the back of the wave, the shaft would snap towards the deck of the board, while my weight is on the blade.  That stress was enough to fracture the wood in the blade (note: the epoxy joint holding the shaft to the blade was unaffected).  I then came in and repeated the process with another wood DIY paddle.  Two snapped paddles in one session, both broke the same way.  Then I got to thinking about my carbon paddle, the carbon is stronger than the wood, so the failure happened at a different location, where the shaft whacked the deck of my board.  Now I am thinking I need to employ a new technique while prone paddling out to the lineup.  Does anyone care to share their preferred prone paddling technique to get back to the lineup with breaking waves, perhaps one of the techniques mentioned above, or perhaps something different.
p.s. I am aware of standup and knee paddle techniques, mainly just interested in prone here.

Gear Talk / Limestone wetsuits
« on: August 26, 2021, 02:50:03 PM »
Limestone wetsuits, any converts out there? 

I would think that for those that are chasing the bottom in terms of volume, this is highly relevant.  I no doubt can't ride my smallest boards in the winter, they are easiest to ride in board shorts.
I have seen numbers where limestone wetsuits have 6% penetration by water, whereas traditional wetsuits have 30-40%.
I would love the see the experiment where someone comes in from a multi-hour session and steps on a scale with the two different types of suits.

In my experience, the weight increase of a traditional wetsuit seems gradual where you don't really notice it in the average length of a prone surf session.  However, during my long SUP sessions where I am out twice as long as the average prone surfer, my legs definitely start feeling the change in weight.

Besides the weight-saving benefits of limestone, they are supposed to be warmer too. Because there is less water penetration, that equivalent area is filled with air bubbles, which provides insulation.
How cool would it be to wear a 3/2 limestone instead of a heavy 4/3 traditional wetsuit?

For those unfamiliar with the differences:

Gear Talk / Tourniquet
« on: July 29, 2021, 09:59:39 AM »
Last year I picked up a SWAT-T tourniquet for my first aid kit.  Originally I was thinking it could be something that I could stuff into my wetsuit, but it is heavy & bulky. 
After reading about this recent incident where a kitefoiler was likely bit by a bull shark:
I decided it is still a good idea to have a tourniquet that I have with me in the water. 
I saw this review for the RATS (aka rapidtourniquet):
Instructional video:
I ordered one after seeing that it is easy to self deploy with one hand.  It packs up small and looks water-resistant.  When I am not wearing my waist leash, I plan to wear it around my waist.  I plan to sew loops into my waist leash, for wearing it with my waist leash.
Near the red triangle, there are about 3 months of the year that we have a high concentration of landlords, I figure better safe than sorry.  Most fatalities from sharks are from bleeding out, not from the actual mistaken identity bites.

Training, Diet, and Fitness / Kelly Starrett's Waterman 2.0
« on: June 18, 2021, 09:12:39 AM »
Has anyone on this forum had a chance to read the book Waterman 2.0: Optimized Movement for Lifelong, Pain-free Paddling and Surfing?
Foreword by Laird Hamilton: The Way of the Waterman
Kellyís Story: Confessions of a River Rat
Chapter 1: Becoming a Lifetime Waterman
Chapter 2: Mobility 101
Chapter 3: Meet the Standards
Chapter 4: The Spine and Hips
Standard #1: Can you achieve and maintain a stable spine?
Standard #2: Can you hinge from the hips without sacrificing trunk stiffness?
Standard #3: Can you maintain trunk stability while squatting?
Chapter 5: The Shoulders
Standard #4: Do you have full overhead capacity?
Standard #5: Can you achieve and maintain a stable shoulder and spine in the press archetype?
Standard #6: Can you achieve optimal shoulder positioning in the hang archetype?
Chapter 6: The Feet and Ankles
Standard #7: Are you standing, walking, running, stepping and jumping with neutral feet?
Standard #8: Can you perform a lunge and master Warrior Pose II?
Chapter 7: The Hands, Wrists, Elbows and Arms
Standard #9: Do you have full wrist flexion?
Standard #10: Can you fully articulate your hands when your elbows are extended?
Chapter 8: Preparation and Recovery
Standard #11: Do you have an appropriate hydration and fueling strategy?
Standard #12: Are you physically prepared to get on the water?
Standard #13: Are you recovering effectively?
Mobilizations Appendix
Waterman Wisdom: Tips from the Pros

It has been on my wish list. 
I really liked Kelly's other books Becoming a Supple Leopard and Ready to Run.

Gear Talk / usbox versus longboard/surf/bahne box
« on: April 14, 2021, 07:58:39 AM »

US STANDARD Base (a.k.a. usbox)
Fits Starboard, JP-Australia, Fanatic, Mistral, RRD and most production brands with an origin in windsurfing. This is the same fin box thatís found on many windsurfing boards and is wider and deeper, with the pin set further from the deck of the board. The base is 9.2mm thick.

US SURF Base / Longboard Base / Bahne Box
This is the same box that is standard in many surf longboards. It is a narrower and shallower base as used by SIC, Infinity, 404, Naish, Flying Fish and many more. Narrower and shallower than the US base, these boxes have the pin set closer to the deck of the board. The base is 9.0mm thick.

Sharing the information.  Most of my fins are the standard longboard base.  I have an older starboard which originally shipped as a 2+1. I have been trying to find a compatible usbox center fin (~4.5") to make it a thruster.  Anyone have any stories to share about getting a thruster fin setup on a usbox board like Starboard, JP-Australia, Fanatic, Mistral, or RRD.

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