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Topics - FRP

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1
Random / Surf the wave you find?
« on: April 03, 2022, 04:38:23 PM »
Not sure where I found this.

Bob

2
Random / Surfing Quotes
« on: April 15, 2021, 03:42:11 PM »
I was looking up a surf quote for another thread and came upon this list of quotes. If you know any good ones tack them on.

Bob

https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/the-best-surfing-quotes-of-all-time

"The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun."
Phil Edwards
"Out of the water, I am nothing."
Duke Kahanamoku
"My passion for surfing was more than my fear of sharks."
Bethany Hamilton
"Surfing is attitude dancing."
Gerry Lopez
"Surfing to me is like playing music. You play different melodies with different boards."
Skip Frye
"We're all equal before a wave."
Laird Hamilton
"Never drive away from good surf."
Roger Sharp
"Being spat out of one of those giant, roaring Hawaiian tubes is the most amazing sensation I've ever experienced in my life. It's joy, fear, and accomplishment all rolled into one experience."
Shaun Tomson
"Foam is your friend. Don't be scared of it. A little bit of extra foam here and there is good for the soul and your surfing."
Rob Machado
"Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind."
Laird Hamilton
"A big wave is like a beautiful woman, exciting to look at and thrilling to ride."
Buzzy Trent
"The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean."
Laird Hamilton
"There is no one right way to ride a wave."
Jamie O'Brien
"There are a million ways to surf, and as long as you're smiling, you're doing it right."
Unknown Author
"Surfing in crowds is like mind over matter. If I don't mind, it doesn't matter."
Brodus Rogers
"Wiping out is an underappreciated skill."
Laird Hamilton
"It's like the mafia. Once you're in - you're in. There's no getting out."
Kelly Slater
"I don't see any difference between bodyboarding and surfing - it's all surfing."
Tom Morey
"Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge."
Kelly Slater
"Style is a natural extension of who you are as a person."
Mark Richards
"Sometimes, I feel like a two-bit version of Mickey Dora."
Phil Edwards
"It's all about where your mind's at."
Kelly Slater
"I invented localism."
Miki Dora
"The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport."
Kelly Slater
"I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time."
Kelly Slater
"I don't need sponsors. I surf better when I'm broke anyway."
Dave Parmenter
"I'm just a surfer who wanted to build something that would allow me to surf longer."
Jack O'Neill
"I took off on a wave, went down the side, popped out the other end, and went, s--t, I'm still alive!"
Greg Noll
"It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks."
Jeff Clark
"I surf to get tan."
Shane Dorian
"If you're having a bad day, catch a wave."
Frosty Hesson
"If in doubt, paddle out."
Nat Young
"I am not famous. I am a worker."
Adriano de Souza
"It's not tragic to die doing something you love."
Mark Foo
"Eddie would go."
Mark Foo
"I've committed to surfing the rest of my life."
Lance Armstrong
"I think you could build a couple of humans with the amount of skin lost on the reef at Pipe."
Martin Potter
"I try changing my surfing, which is the absolute worst thing you can do. Everyone surfs their own way. If I try to surf like someone else, I look like a dork."
Andy Irons
"Waves are not measured in feet and inches. They are measured in increments of fear."
Buzzy Trent
"Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you've done it."
Paul Strauch
"Surfing is for life."
Bruce Jenkins
"When the surfs up, your life is too."
Wilhelm Sverdvik
"If there were no such thing as barrels, I probably wouldn't even surf."
Clay Marzo
"You can't stop the waves, but you can learn to surf."
John Kabat-Zinn
"The three most important things in life: surf, surf, surf."
Jack O'Neill
"One drop-in is an accident, two is rude, three is a twatable offense."
Roger Sharp
"Sometimes in the morning, when it's a good surf, I go out there, and I don't feel like it's a bad world."
Kary Mullis
"Surfing soothes me. It's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave."
Paul Walker
"One of the greatest things about the sport of surfing is that you need only three things: your body, a surfboard, and a wave."
Naima Green
"I've tried body surfing. It's nice."
Ziggy Marley
"It's funny, 'cause you think surfing is your whole life, but then when you make a family and it seems like it's not at all."
Joel Parkinson
"Surfing is almost a way to fly."
Jeff Hakman
"Surfing is the most blissful experience you can have on this planet, a taste of heaven."
John McCarthy
"There is nothing, nothing, more sad than a surfer who used to surf."
Unknown author
"I love surfing more than cricket. It's more interesting, and you meet great people."
Hansie Cronje
"There's nothing quite like surfing by yourself in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, but unpredictable weather patterns, below deck accommodation, sea snakes, coral cuts, and packs of reef sharks make it a trip for the committed seadog."
Mark Thornley
"I wanted to be the best shaper in the world - except, you later realize, there's no such thing."
Al Merrick
"Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life."
Matt Warshaw
"As for my own surfing, let's just say that when the waves start pushing 10 feet, I get this tremendous urge to make a sandwich."
Bruce Jenkins
"Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times, Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom."
Jolene Blalock
"If it swells, ride it!"
Unknown author
"I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea."
Captain James Cook
"Live to surf, surf to live."
Mike Doyle
"What I love the most about surfing is that it's my first love. It's the first thing I can remember being consumed by."
Stephanie Gilmore
"Surfing's the source. Can change your life. Swear to god."
The Surf Shop Kid (Christopher Pettiet) in "Point Break"
"Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true."
Patrick Swayze
"The only one whom can whisper to you the ways of the surf is the wind."
Wilhelm Sverdvik
"Waves are toys from God."
Clay Marzo
"Charlie don't surf."
Lt Col William Kilgore
"Thank God for a few free waves."
Miki Dora
"It's a cakewalk when you know how."
Gerry Lopez
"Surfing leads you through life, especially when you're young and with hope in your heart."
Tom Blake
"The reason he [Duke Kahanamoku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much."
Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz
"You can take a surfer out of the surf, but you can not take surf out of surfer."
Bob McTavish
"Sliding a wave removes our brains out of the ordinary and slips us into the extraordinary of being there now - no more worries about mortgages or strife of being poor or rich. When you enter the domain of an ocean cylinder, that moment, those split seconds belong to the Zen part of just being. Period."
Bill Hamilton
"I don't want to be connected with surfing in a business way. I'd like to be a plumber."
Butch Van Artsdalen
"Climbers have Everest. Surfers have Nazaré."
António Silva
"Our lives are clickbait."
Albee Layer

“When the wave breaks here, don't be there.” Ever since Turtle broke it down to Rick Kane the sentiment has been repeated after every flogging.......

3
Environment / Environmental benefits of surfing
« on: February 20, 2021, 07:23:20 AM »
Interesting BBC article. This is being used as an argument for protection of surf sites.

https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20210218-the-environmental-benefits-of-surfing

Cheers

Bob


4
SUP General / Surfing “Logs”
« on: January 12, 2021, 01:12:10 PM »
The peninsula that we live on here in Tofino has a calm bay side and the wilder exposed pacific surf side. The first picture is of the calm protected bay and 30 minutes later we walked over to one of the beach surf access trails many which have been closed due to high tides. The videos are of the surf side. The short board in the second video is made by our local long time shaper Stefan Afantas. The surfer wisely looked for another entry point. The wave faces looked good perhaps 9-12 ft. The surfing “logs” are ........ just logs.

Cheers

Bob






5
SUP General / Surf/beach web cams-favourite
« on: January 19, 2020, 02:21:25 PM »
I am always interested in looking at beach cams before I head out. I thought that we could start a thread on your favourite web cam sites that you use regularly. The link below is the one that I use most often.

Cheers

Bob

https://www.pacificsands.com/surf-cam/

6
Random / Thanks Giving Turkeys
« on: October 13, 2019, 12:37:40 PM »
We are in the interior of B.C. east Kootenay in the small town of Windermere at a family gathering for Thanksgiving weekend. Staying at my mom’s small cabin. I was out this morning getting drinking water from a mountain stream and came upon a flock of twenty five wild turkeys who were happy to be outside and not on our plates. Wishing you all a warm and peaceful Holliday time.

Cheers

Bob

7
Random / Getting family and friends in the ocean!
« on: August 09, 2019, 11:05:48 AM »
I have been having some difficulty lately getting my older (over the age of 60) friends and family interested in getting out in the surf when they visit. My brother in law was visiting from NZ, and on the last day he agreed to go out boogie boarding in some small surf before dinner. I was going to take a paddle board also but then thought what the heck I will take a boogie board out also. It has been years since I was on a boogie board and Geoff hadn’t been on one for over 50 years. We rented a wet suit for him and out we went in some tiny surf. OMG it was crazy good fun! I was laughing so hard I thought I would aspirate seawater. Geoff is 66 years and I am 64. Below is a video I shot. Two geezers out playing in the ocean like kids.


8
SUP General / Panam games surf schedule
« on: August 01, 2019, 08:41:51 PM »
I am hoping that some of this will be viewable. My SUP surf guru Catherine is competing in the women’s SUP surf for Canada in Lima and we have a couple of other surfers from Tofino on the team.

Cheers

Bob

GOLD MEDAL EVENTS
SUP race Women
Aug. 04, 7:00 a.m.
SUP race Men
Aug. 04, 8:00 a.m.
SUP surf Women
Aug. 04, 10:00 a.m.
SUP surf Men
Aug. 04, 10:25 a.m.
Longboard Women
Aug. 04, 10:50 a.m.
Longboard Men
Aug. 04, 11:15 a.m.
Open surf Women
Aug. 04, 11:40 a.m.
Open surf Men
Aug. 04, 12:05 p.m.

9
Sessions / Tofino 7 July 2019
« on: July 07, 2019, 07:43:23 PM »
Got out this morning at 6:30 am and already ten young surfers in the water and two video cameras. A few fun waist high beach break waves on my 8’7” Creek. I like the new fins (Cdrive copies) that I have been using on both my boards the last week. Headed back to the mainland tomorrow and then to the interior of BC to celebrate my mom’s 100th birthday! Life is good.

Cheers

Bob


10
Gear Talk / CDrive fins preorder in USA
« on: July 07, 2019, 11:27:20 AM »
From Troy of Cdrive fame. I copied this from the Seabeeeze site.

“Good News C-Drive is back. I have teamed up with a US based company. They will be doing C-Drive Fins for FCS 1 & Futures - Thrusters and Quads Small, Medium & Large sizes.

They are doing a Pre-Order sale price on Thrusters for USD $75.00 - they will also do Quads on request ( sorry no twins just yet but very soon ).

You can let people know about it on your Seabreeze forum if you like.

The company is Surf NVS:
www.surfnvs.com/collections/thrusters

Contact emails below are Leif & Ragnar:

leif@surfnvs.com

Jamin@surfnvs.com

Cheers
Troy

11
Sessions / May 1st a few mellow waves
« on: May 03, 2019, 07:12:03 PM »
Cox Bay, Tofino beautiful spring morning. A few small pealing waves. The board is a 8’7” Sunova Creek, 115 litres. The music is by Grayson Gilmour our nephew from New Zealand who recently became a proud father shortly after moving into their new home in Wellington. Good to be out there! It was crowded at a good take off point so I went down a bit and caught a bunch of waves then almost everyone followed me. I swung back to the good takeoff and voila......the last wave was unoccupied and my best wave of the day.

Cheers

Bob



12
Sessions / Cox Bay 9th March
« on: March 09, 2019, 08:40:44 PM »

I got out this morning to Cox Bay, Tofino. Soloshot worked ok with a wider framing. Beautiful clear cool morning (-2 C ). Got talking to a local surfer as we got ready to head out for a surf and I was excited with the 20 second period predicted. He said Cox doesn't work well with those big periods that it will be mostly closing out. He was right. Shoulder high and "sometimes you are the windshield......and sometimes you are the bug". In the video you can see Lenard Island lighthouse in the distance. It is perhaps 2 miles off but looks so close. Also you will see my paddle out...... a little bit of local knowledge in that there is a strong outgoing rip by these rocks....it just shoots you out in no time. Headed back to work tomorrow. This has been a good couple of weeks. Out surfing every day but one.

Bob


13
Sessions / Tofino February
« on: February 07, 2019, 11:04:37 AM »
Cross posted with Seabeeeze.Got out yesterday on North Chesterman. Nice waist high waves. You will see Wendy my wife at the end and Jasper our little yellow lab. About midway through I pick up a tiny wave but the next wave behind me looked great. Wave selection becomes such an important part of the beach break. Also towards the end I stuff the nose of the Speeed on a drop. I can’t remember when I last pearled with this board. I was beginning to think it was immune. Temperature was around 0 deg C. My hands got a bit cold with only 1.5 mm gloves. Feet were fine with 3 mm Solite boots and socks. Music is by Grayson Gilmour our nephew and new dad in New Zealand. Very talent musician and composer.

Cheers

Bob


14
Sessions / January Tofino
« on: January 25, 2019, 07:26:38 AM »
Hi

Cross post with Seabreeze. Got my soloshot up and running and able to load soloshot edit on my 10 year old Mac. This beta edit program finds your rides, puts them in a highlight reel and from that you can select and edit those rides. Amazing!

 Bob



15
SUP General / Big storm West Coast
« on: December 21, 2018, 06:08:21 PM »
Big storm here on West Coast Vancouver Island. Power still out. Hundred of trees down and dozens across power lines. Beaches in the park are closed but open here in Tofino. I am heating and cooking with our wood stove. Way too much food with the freezer thawed out. Water is still running but may only have warm water for one more shower after surfing today. Went out to South Chesterman. Deserted. Around head high but stupidly took out my smaller board. Still very choppy from the storm. Getting knocked off when still on my knees. A couple of decent rides but mostly too unstable. Should have taken the 8’10” Speeed out. Picture is of Chesterman Beach road. Rather than take a five minute detour people were driving under these trees. I was tempted but thought my fins might catch.

Bob

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