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Topics - jrandy

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1
The Shape Shack / fin layout 2+1 for 9'8" SUP
« on: August 24, 2018, 08:20:09 AM »
I am working on a floaty pintail all-around 9'8" x 30" x 4" and am wondering about a 2+1 setup.

I have this layout from Robin Mair at Gearbox/Hanalei: Long box up 6", sides 16", 1" off rail and 3/16" toe:

https://gearbox.surf/resources/HFINS-2PLUS1-Layout-2018-WEB.pdf

I have a 10" Bahne box and 4 and 6 degree cant Gearboxes.

Does this sound reasonable? Which cant? I do not have any SUP or enough 'regular' surf experience to draw my own conclusions.

Thanks, J



2
...so I started this foil build without having some of the major dimensions in hand and...

If someone is willing to measure and post, it would be useful to know the basic area relationship of wing to stabilizer and the distance from wing to mast and mast to stabilizer taken from a point of max camber or some other point of reference.

Dims from a a larger foil would most approximate my situation.

I am running a flat 4412 foil, slight taper root to tip.

Are the stabilizers 'neutral' or providing up/down force?
Any thoughs about type: anhedral/dihedral/canard/"airplane"(fixed rudder+elevators)?

I know, failure to plan is planning to fail and all that jazz, at this point I am just hoping to finish and get it in the water once the ice is out and things warm up...

Thanks. I appreciate all the other foil build threads.

PS a good flat photo of the rig looking from the bottom works too if I have one dimension to determine scale.

3
The Shape Shack / Boardlady.com website closed
« on: April 12, 2018, 05:24:53 AM »
Dear Eva, where did you go?

Seems like whenever a repair got messy we would cite wisdom from her website.

Looking on the Wayback Machine, it does look like one of the last updates indicates her saying goodbye.
The link below seems to have pages working. Some of the later snapshots do not have working links.

https://web.archive.org/web/20170916192843/http://boardlady.com

https://www.youtube.com/embed/1fYjCkvpxLE

4
The Shape Shack / R&R of my Shaping Stands
« on: January 26, 2018, 08:22:29 PM »
I decided to rebuild the support arms and padding on my surfboard shaping stands to be wider for some 9 to 10 foot SUP action.  I found myself using sawhorses on the big ones but these are going to be smaller boards made in a smaller space so I wanted to have optimized stands

Previously the arms were about 3 1/2 x 4 1/2 inches, cantilevered without bracing,  and covered in recycled foam and cheap duct tape. I want to say I was on the second tape job, not too bad for stands that have wintered outside a couple times over the past five years.

Now they are about twice as long, braced,  and covered with extra-deluxe memory foam carpet pad and recycled t-shirt material.  i also spent more time getting them level and rounding  the edges. Heck, I even sanded them a little...

The big trick was ironing the t-shirt material and rolling it up on the tube to allow me to unroll it evenly over the foam and spray adhesive.

Hopefully I am moving one blank into the room tomorrow.

I was going to tack this onto the thread 'shaping stand dimensions' but I got the 'probably too old' warning message. -J

5
General Discussion / Cold Water Traction (icy cold air and water)
« on: December 30, 2017, 07:45:38 PM »
Hello Everyone-
I am planning out a couple of homemade boards and there is strong potential that at least one could be used in cold fresh water (Great Lakes winter SUP-surf). I do not have experience taking boards with EVA traction into icy (32F /0C water and even colder air) conditions. Does standard EVA traction work? Will it need cold wax in addition? Does the new clear hexagonal traction work in these condition? The second board may have extensive artwork and the clear traction might be a plus for that one too. It' been a while since I've been frozen into a wetsuit waiting for the chest zip to thaw but for some odd reason I am not opposed to doing it again.
Thanks!

6
The Shape Shack / A Little Vacuum Bagging
« on: July 22, 2017, 11:21:16 AM »
Today I am glassing up the bits for a Jim Michalak designed rudder for a PD Racer sailboat
www.pdracer.com
It is going good and I took some pictures and wanted to share the process so far.

Materials:
Vacuum bag (pink),mastic/ bag seal (gray), peel ply (green), breather (white), plywood bits, surplus store fractional HP Gast vacuum pump with gauge,resin trap, and bag fitting, 4oz (135 GSM) E cloth, Greenroom Old#7 resin, drafting table donated by neighbor w/ electric lift (hehehe electric glassing stand here I come...)

Pictures:
1. Gathering materials, happy I had enough of everything to keep going
2. Cutting out materials, weigh glass cloth to calculate resin amount (in this case 185g cloth and around 300g mixed resin, more than normal to allow plywood to soak it in first). Cut bag and set mastic
3. Laminated bottoms, peel ply, breather, flipped, and now laminating tops. Seal bag after finishing stack-up.
4. View of 36" x 60" (.75 x 1.52m) bag at 23 inches Hg (.75 bar) without even turning off the fan or radio to listen for leaks. Hard I been using poly film and cheap tape this would have not been possible. Pump and trap go on the floor after picture.

It takes a little longer to set up versus 'free' laminating but I get both sides done at once and got to soak and compress a couple spots were the plywood to plywood laminations were not the best.

Bagging materials and fiberglass cloth were from the local composite supply house. Greenroom resin was shipped in.

If anyone else has some vacuum bagging tips and pics, feel free to add them here if you like.
Happy Bagging!

7
Hello Zoners-
I am looking for ideas make/model/sizing for an all-purpose board that leans towards windSUP and wave SUS.
I am a beginner, 6'-3" and 240 pounds and hoping to end up around 220.
I have a 12'6" x wide flat water board so this would help round out the quiver.
Also, any advice on sailing rigs, etc. would be appreciated.
Thanks!

8
SUP Safety / Hands-only CPR video (push here to save a life dot com)
« on: March 22, 2017, 02:37:43 PM »
Hello Everyone-
I was made aware of this during lifeguard training. If you have a minute and 3 seconds...
Thanks, Jim


9
Aloha Zoners,
I am just finishing a new board and am getting ready to apply the traction.

The 'gloss' surface is Resin Research epoxy treated with Additive F, not yet sanded.

My plan was to sand the deck area to 220 or so, dust off w/ clean compressed air, wipe that down with a rag and acetone as a final 'degreaser' step and then apply the pad.

Does this sound good as a procedure or ???

Thanks!






10
The Shape Shack / 12'-6" Round Two
« on: June 08, 2016, 05:28:52 AM »
Hello!
I am making a second 12'-6" x 32 x thick board so I have one to use and to race against the first one I made for a buddy.
1.5# EPS + plywood stringer + GG so far
Foam was hot wired (rocker, split, and outline) with templates, stringer was cut oversized with an electric saber saw.
On the first board I cut away the deck so the sunken part had no sides or back all the way out the tail.
This time I would like to sink the deck and leave and edge on all 4 sides, to learn and to keep a little extra volume out back and another spot to lash gear.

Questions:
-Are there any tips and tricks to this as far as routing this out, rounded corners, glassing?

Another thought I had was to cut out the whole area and make some rounded strips and trim/cope it back together which is how I fixed some damage on the first one.

-Would running plain weave fiberglass cloth at a 45 degree angle help it drape into the sunken part?
Thanks!


11
There is a current thread on Swaylocks discussing carbon fiber, alternate fibers, various weaves, carbon strips, etc. with Chris Russell at Graphite Masters. The format is 'hot seat' where the people ask and only Chris answers so it's a point-of-view rather than a debate. The content seems to go with some of the threads in the Shape Shack lately.

http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/hotseat-graphitemasters-chris-russell

12
The Shape Shack / Interesting Short Repair Video
« on: April 21, 2016, 05:45:53 AM »
This came up on Swaylocks to illustrate wetting out materials on plastic and then applying to the project like a decal.

1 minute 57 seconds and they fixed a hole in an airplane wing. I am attributing their speed to their choice of music and lack of voice-overs. Enjoy!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ps0uUuETlQ&feature=youtu.be&t=0

13
General Discussion / Standard mounting pattern for deck packs?
« on: August 14, 2015, 05:30:32 AM »
Hello Zoners-

I am getting ready to set plugs into the deck of an unfinished touring/recreational board for a lashing cord system and/or a deck pack.

Is there a 'standard' layout for a 4 or 6 plug pattern? Somewhere I read 15x15" square for 4 but I cannot confirm or
deny this as I don't have a board or pack for reference. Is there a point where a pattern is too big to be practical, or is there no such thing as too much lashing space?

Thanks, J

14
Gear Talk / C4 Waterman Mongoose 12-6 Carbon (not Speed)
« on: July 16, 2015, 05:30:42 AM »
Hello Zoners,

I just returned a rental 12-6 BIC Ace Tec wing to one of the local outfitting shops.  They have one of these C4's on special for 'blems', which seem to be some paint nubbies on the bottom (think pilled sweater) and a few pea-sized blisters under the paint on the rails.

Staff at the shop was friendly but not knowledgeable. They had to go online to read up on the board as it was not on their 'cheat sheet'. I did not tip my hand that I have built several surfboards and that throwing around words ''displacement' and 'composite' weren't going to impress me. I called the folks at Waterman and they confirmed that the model is indeed carbon.

The Wing felt good in the water but seemed to like to go over on its rounded rails. I would prefer something with a more solid feel. The Mongoose has squarer rails but does not have the cutting bow like the Wing. According to the blurb on Waterman's sight the nose design is to reduce windage and swing weight.

About me: middle-aged, beginner, tall, thickish. I would use the board mostly on flat/fresh water and not for racing. No plans to surf it unless I get into mischief on the Great Lakes.

-I read that that Waterman has switched manufacturing locations. Is this move enough to say 'no' to their boards?
-Is getting anything 'carbon' and 'blem' a few hundred under list worth the risk?

I have foam and plans to make a couple stand-up boards (OK already started one, different thread), but have nothing to ride or reference in the meantime.

The big question: should just get out of the way of my cheap/DIY bad self and start with this? Or consider a different make/model?

I have heard good things about the JL Searcher, more foam but way more $$$.  SUPATX has a 2014 Navigator for even less money, but 20L less foam than the Wing or Mongoose and I have read stories about shipping damage.

Here is a link and basics of the one at hand. Thanks for your input, -J

https://www.c4waterman.com/BoardDetails.aspx?id=40

Overall Length: 12' 6" (381cm)
 Width: 31.00" (78.74cm)
 Thickness: 5.00" (12.7cm)
 Weight: 28.00 (12.73kg)*
 Volume: 75.03 Gal. (284.00L)
*Weights may vary +/- 10%

15
The Shape Shack / 12-6' x 30" design tips
« on: May 25, 2015, 08:37:12 AM »
Hello Everyone-
I need to make a 12'-6" x 30ish" for a larger-framed friend for recreational flatwater use.
I am new to here and SUP, have done some surfboard builds with EPS.
My due date is June 6th and I need to finish it to deliver to his visiting artist. Since we are similar sized, I'll probably make one for myself once I recover from the first one as flat water options are plentiful in my area.

I have a couple questions, thanks for reading.

My buddy tried a Boardworks 'Raven' 12-6. I got to ride a Rave Sports 12-6 'TS'. Both are 30-31" wide with square tails.

1. Rocker: the TS is maybe 1", the Raven 3+inches. How does this affect ride for beginners?
2. Tail width: TS is 10" @ 0 and about 20" at 12", the Raven is 5" @0 and 15"@12 and looks 'tippy' to me. Go big (since I'm already home...)?
3. Post-glassing color: Artist is SUP-savvy will be painting 'decorations' w/ acrylic artist color post-glassing.  What should I use as a primer and they as a clear coat? Should decorations be some other media?

Thanks again, Jim

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