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Messages - surfinJ

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 112
1
General Discussion / Re: Lessons Learned the Hard Way
« on: September 08, 2019, 05:02:52 AM »
You should not rush your progression. If you are still on your knees the board is too small or you just need more time.
And why did you think the other guys 10í+ board would not work?  The waves you were describing were in the plus double overhead size.  If you 8-10 is your only performance shape, you need a longer one.
A prone gun is in the lengths +-9í.  A standup gun will be longer. Or a longboard with a gunny tail.
I forgot how big of a guy you are but donít be scared of board size when the waves come in XL size. Longer and more voluminous shapes give paddling mobility and stability.  For me it is getting into the big mothers easily and then making it some or all the way to the channel that make it work.

2
Gear Talk / Re: Go pro Mount advice
« on: August 21, 2019, 12:45:40 PM »
I have thought the same thing about the two views. A POV mount and the paddle mount would edit together for a really nice vid.

3
General Discussion / Re: Go pro Mount advice2
« on: August 19, 2019, 01:39:44 AM »
With the GoPro the view can be swapped 180deg but not 90.

4
Sessions / Re: Typhoon #9
« on: August 13, 2019, 01:20:15 PM »
Keepíem comin. Really enjoy going for a surf with you like this and thanks for the effort.

5
Random / Re: This will make you smile
« on: August 12, 2019, 04:52:17 AM »
Loved that, thanks. Whole family is smiling here.

6
General Discussion / Re: The price of new boards/how do you choose?
« on: August 06, 2019, 03:25:18 AM »
I agree, with this as my main play activity I have to pay for, a new board every couple of years goes fine.
In the group of buyers that obsess would also be those that trust and dedicate to a few shapers. Chambers, Rawson, Berger, Clark, new production and customs.
Except for one sale and some donations I still have all my boards.


7
General Discussion / Re: Hatteras July '19 Soloshot
« on: August 03, 2019, 05:40:53 AM »
Very chill vid.  Perfect surf soundtrack and the soloshot gives a great view.

8
Random / Re: Alt Meat
« on: August 01, 2019, 11:19:05 PM »
Now that was one of the classic movies of my youth Iíve rewatched with my kids.
Still some shock effect.
We eat a good deal of vegetarian meals at home.  The soy based ones were never very good, and my wifeís various plant based versions were tasty but only burger in form. I recently tried the beyond meat burgers and they were a tasty beef burger replacer.
If I go to the small country butcher here there is a photo of the provider of the meat on display in a field eating grass. I will not buy beef any more from supermarkets. Do not trust it.
But then I have that luxury.

>exiled: Have we had a synthetic food replacement successfully usurp the original?

HFCS replaced sugar in many products
Artificial sweeteners replaced sugar in the rest
Artificial flavorings have replaced extracts or whole ingredients 
Low- or non-fat milk replaced delicious whole fat milk in many homes

Those might be ingredients more than foods, but the synthetic food industry still has some success stories.

In my house Iíve got nothing but the pure originals. Whole milk, butter, raw sugar.
Among the friends that think twice about what they eat I see a tendency to do the same and avoid fake foods and mass production and out of season foods.

9
General Discussion / Re: Quick dry sun shirts
« on: August 01, 2019, 09:19:31 AM »
PSH, OíNeil, Hurley, and a Quik with a hoodie. All loose and no slippery stuff needed.

10
General Discussion / Re: Quick dry sun shirts
« on: July 27, 2019, 10:48:50 PM »
Most of the larger surf wear companies make loose fit quick dry material surf shirts now. Comfortable and not skin tight they are nice to wear. The only drawback being that a good wipeouts spin cycle can pull it up over your head.

11
Sessions / Re: Small Kine Super Secrets
« on: July 27, 2019, 05:44:31 AM »
Nice kine.
Oki is a true sup paradise. Between the relatively close two coasts, both highly convoluted, and all the way out there spots, so much opportunity.

12
Gear Talk / Re: My Single Thruster Quad Battle
« on: July 23, 2019, 07:04:08 AM »
My first 3 boards and first custom were shaped by Blane Chambers PSH.  They all came with quads that he had shaped.
My custom 8' from Pat Rawson only has quad boxes.

In my previous life as a prone surfer it was thrusters or singles.
On the sup the quad looks better to me on the big tails and my trusted shapers recommend them. 
Surfing them feels very positive when pushed and loose in a rail to rail way.

Longboards are mostly quad but I like to swap out for singles too.

My gun is conservatively finned with a 8" single and small sidebites.
I'm sure quads would work, but I keep the board finned for the days I'm puckering.
Don't need loose and surfy.

13
Sessions / Re: Last Day of TS Danas
« on: July 21, 2019, 11:25:56 PM »
Nice storm session. Nice way to beat the crowd. You must be at the top of your game it being the height of the typhoon season. I used to love those times searching mostly the southern part of the island for the deep in the bay spots on their rare wakeup.

GoPro fails are frustrating. One of my best attempts as far as conditions go, big clean and uncrowded. Camera turned on for an overview shot and in the water went dead.

14
Sessions / Re: Stoke session at Doheny on my new L41
« on: July 17, 2019, 11:44:58 PM »
Nice stoker. You are a master with the paddle mount. I have found this mount style next to impossible to get viewable footage but you score.

15
Training, Diet, and Fitness / Re: Shoulder pain and THC
« on: July 11, 2019, 10:35:12 AM »
Vaping and smoking is to get high.  You can not get high from CBD cannabis.  Taken orally in oil form a few drops at a time is the route for the medical benefits. The number of drops is up to ten or so a day. Maybe start with a few drops a few times a day or a higher dose before sleeping.

A couple of drops of pure Indica oil before bed would work wonders for pain relief and sleep quality, but that is than a THC strain so check your state laws. 

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