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Messages - surfinJ

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 122
Training, Diet, and Fitness / Re: Back surgery advice
« on: November 22, 2021, 10:56:25 PM »
Tough road you have had. Thanks for giving an update, even if it is not a party.
Sometimes a zoner just disappears and you wonder. You seem like a positive guy and that will be a big help.
Looking forward to the vids.

Sessions / Re: Longboard fun
« on: November 06, 2021, 12:45:06 AM »
Thanks a lot guys. This was an end of summer bash. Two very long sessions at a quirky peak ignored by the rest.

Sessions / Longboard fun
« on: November 03, 2021, 11:36:15 AM »
Two sessions from the same swell. Small wave days are a blast, high wave count and no beatings.

Share the Stoke / Re: Picture of the day!
« on: October 17, 2021, 11:27:10 PM »
Now that looks like a fun wave zone.

Random / Re: Anyone have a Pacemaker?
« on: September 25, 2021, 11:45:44 PM »
One of my surf buds has one. Although I may not be up on all the details he does not appear to be slowed down by it. Good luck.

Technique / Re: Prone paddling out over breaking waves
« on: September 25, 2021, 12:00:03 AM »
Loads of good advice here and you seem to see the danger in confronting whitewater(except tiny) prone. Sooner or later you will get your board in your face.

Consider this. You are well clear of other surfers, ie no one in board plus leash distance behind you. Up until you decide to bail, ideal way to mount an unbroken wave is on your feet paddling.  Most of the time you are stroking hard, deep and whether you will make it over or not is not evident till you scratch over.

If you can not get over the top with the board and decide to eject at some point, your body will at least be mostly past the wave.

Sessions / Re: September Blues
« on: September 20, 2021, 11:36:07 PM »
Those some beautiful blue hues. Nice surfing too.

Random / Re: "OVERCAST" ft. Tosh Tudor, JJ Wessels, Makala Smith, and more
« on: September 19, 2021, 11:23:52 PM »
Very nice.

Sessions / Re: Distance and Surf on my 14'r
« on: September 09, 2021, 10:58:13 PM »
Nice session story Talldude. Looks like it was a nice tour.
The other story, if it dont kill ya.

Foil SUP / Re: Pacasmayo - Laird Hamilton 2021
« on: August 30, 2021, 07:00:19 AM »
Oh boy how good that must feel. What a dream. Just one would be enough.

Sessions / Re: Hurricane Henri In New Jersey- August 2021
« on: August 27, 2021, 10:48:00 PM »
Some very nice picking as background for the summer sliders. Enjoyable edit with all the extras.

The hurricanes seem to be providing nicely over there. Here the tracks of the lsat storms have given us a lull on this side

SUP General / Re: Surfboards (Longboards)
« on: August 25, 2021, 10:18:15 AM »
Nice stories. A new board is always a treat. A perfect board for the summer too.

Sessions / Re: Hurricane Elsa Session- July 9, 2021
« on: August 16, 2021, 06:29:01 AM »
Nice session man. That was a lot of waves you caught. And the overview of the soloshot is real nice.

Sessions / Re: Summer pulse
« on: August 16, 2021, 06:22:57 AM »
Getting to be that time of year Rastaman.... looks like you made the most of it  :)

It's always interesting when a crowd gathers and weaving though them becomes the norm.

What happens over 11 sec... do you have any points that have manageable crowds?
I just paddle down to that place you know  ;D (Mums the word!)
It is true that what this stretch of coast misses is a point break. There are a few spots, more cove like than pointbreak.  Our beloved spot you mentioned gets a pass till the fall as it is now overwhelmed.
The north coast of Spain or where you explored in Portugal are the point break zones.
Nice video and it looked like a great day, though I saw 6' in the title and expected something radically different. 6' in Hawaii is approaching double overhead. Or at least double over Greg (covesurfer).
Thanks Bill. This would be 3 Hawaiian. The bouy was showing 4 and on the sandbar it was standing up to head high.
Nice pulse! Love those summer days when the surf gets proper. Seems they are far and few between over there in FR just like here in New Jersey. Great surfing and waves, and nice navigating through the crowd. Still would like to see some SOLOSHOT pov from the beach. Seems like that beach would be perf for it. I would settle for a nose mounted GoPro though.

This was our best swell of the summer hands down. Not often we get hurricane swells so early in the season!
Thanks Cookie. Maybe same storm?  I would love to see myself from afar like the solo shot. But the nose mount I do not like. I get its use as a training aid. But I have crazy weird wipeouts and could picture injuring myself.  Clumsy boy.
J and Cookie

Thanks for posting! Good waves and surfing. Next week picking up a bit here on the NW Pacific coast. Will try to dust of the Soloshot. The last session filming a friend in DO big waves it did not track well. The camera seemed to get lost in the big pits. Perhaps not set up high enough?


Thanks Bob. Swells are kicking in. Looking forward to vids from up there.

Sessions / Summer pulse
« on: August 14, 2021, 11:17:57 PM »
The tourists this summer have had much rain and wind and the surfers among them
were mostly screwed with either small period chop or unsurfable XL mess.

Well this day that all changed and everywhere lit up. This spot starts to close out when the period starts to get longer and this day was at the limit, @11s.

Not being able to duck dive is tricky. If for whatever reason I end up in foamy water it's back in to and then a walk back up the beach.

*No waterlife creatures were injured in the making of this video.

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