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Messages - juandesooka

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1
as above...I expect you will get a "holy s**t" reaction when you put on the 14...will feel like you added a 5th gear and race tires.   FTS even moreso.

And vice versa, using the 20 with the 1150 is also kinda wow, but different reasons: lift, stability, pumpability....feels pretty cool. (this is a new one for me, just got my 20 a few sessions ago...using it for lighter wind, more lift needed situations)

2
I replaced my 6m bladder. Done dozens of kite bladder replacements, but this was a lot tougher ... no zipper access hole to allow fine tuning.

I tried many variations, but had trouble with the bladder being twisted and also the valve velcro not seated right (which can cause the velcro to unseat and the bladder to twist in the tube, once under pressure).  Talking to OR folks, got a few tips. But I did it so many times in a row I am having trouble remembering which way eventually worked...so will edit if I recall differently. After trying 10 times, it was "super easy once you know how".   :)

PS after all that, just found this OR video, DOH
Maybe just follow that  ;D  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NP3iwV3bKF8

Tips:
-- generous application of talc or baby powder and a dry bladder helps it move in the tube
-- lay it out flat, draw a jiffy line on the inflate valve and the LE hole, so you know it is lined up properly
-- tape a piece of cardboard to bladder tip, to help ensure it doesn't twist as you pull
-- fold bladder from centre to end, pile the folds on top in 2' increments, taking care that it is flat and not twisted, so it'll pull through clean [this video, 2:20..."accordion fold" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-BvHWCbUsc ... or see the OR video above for alternative method]
-- pull bladder through inflate hole, towards the LE tips.
-- pull velcro ring through hole...tight fit. 
-- seat the velcro, lining up your jiffy lines.
-- use something thin but not sharp to seat the valve edge over LE lip.
-- fold bladder ends, then fold the LE inside material, seat the velcro
-- half inflate, look for twists (deep depression in LE), if twisted try to pull it out through LE end just enough to fix the twist OR if not, start again for that side. 
-- half inflate, try to massage out kinks or folds in materials.  I found it helped to open up LE tip, then pull the LE tip (with velcro seated), it pulls out most of the kinks. I think I did this with bladder 10% inflated...but can't remember for sure
-- inflate 3/4, check again for kinks or folds.
-- inflate to 100%, but just before, say a little prayer to whatever gods or powers-that-be you believe in, for hopes and good fortune



3
Thanks for the report. I think that makes sense, as the benefit of lightness most noticably affects light wind performance.  Especially if you are needing to pump and slog to get going or in between gusts. Having a wing half as heavy would be a big advantage. Also a smaller leading edge tube just means less to get in the way.  In contrast, for smaller wings in higher wind, weight is less of a factor.

I generally find light wind flat water to be kinda marginal, fun for a bit but the extra work may not justify the effort.  However, if there's surf combined with that, very different story.  This sounds like a perfect wave weapon for those 10-12kt days.  Above all what I need in that situation is a power switch that works: you have to have solid wind power to get into the waves with speed and more importantly to get out of their way when needed.

I am happy with my 6m a-series, but this 7m sounds one notch better, will be worth a look

4
x2, been using it with wider strap set up for past year, no issues.
Also had a chance to try the carbon handles last week again, first thought was I don't like them due to potential grip fatigue.  But wow, the extra control is really nice, with positive connection.  I am working on tacks and I can see how that would help a lot, in controlling the wing through the upwind turn.  I only used a first gen boom wing once, had the same feeling, I liked the control aspects (though other cons to balance the pros).

5
Ha ha, looks like I'm not the only one convinced by Kalama's thought processes. This is my new SUP in progress too. No tail rocker and kalama tail for a SUP that needs boardspeed to get on foil. The tradeoff is a nosedown attitude in flight. I still think a wingboard needs some tail rocker for better flight characteristics but If the SUP proves to be what people are saying I will try a rockered kalama tail on my next wing board.

I do not understand this.
Why would zero rocker at the foilbox give a nose down attitude in flight?.
Most modern  foils are designed to fly level on flat boxes, and if this is not the case you can always shim the mast plate.

On a short board (under 6') with minimal nose rocker, adding some tail rocker it will make it feel "nose up" when it rides. 
Alternatively, no tail rocker, the flat red line on the kalama board above, will not give this "nose up" feel -- and in some situations that can feel "nose down", like dropping into a steep wave it feels like your board is beyond neutral and actually pointing into the wave -- versus the nose up feeling of a surfboard or a snowboard in powder. 
The added blue lines illustrate how the tail rocker makes the board in front angle up, the nose rides is an inch or two higher than it be if no tail rocker. 
And yes, you can achieve the same thing with mast shims, either adding more rocker effect or removing it entirely.  (unless you have a tuttle mount)
Early sup conversions we found the boards had way too much tail rocker, which caused the foil to be pointing downward when paddling, really bad for paddling power and glide getting into waves.
The tail rocker thing is more pronounced on prone surf foils and shorter wing boards -- eg the sky 5' had a lot of tail rocker. So does the new FG Armstrong boards.



6
SUP foil downwinding...I haven't tried that either, but when legends of the sport say it's the hardest thing they've done...yikes. So yes, that's one of the main uses for foil drive e-assist. A friend is getting regular 20km rides and only using less than half battery power. 

Foil drive also useful for waves that aren't really breaking well...but I've only had 2 sessions like that since I got mine.  I've used it for flat water pump practice too, quite hard. 

But I have now also tried a full efoil, and similar to your ebike experience, it is way more fun than I expected. Like winging without the wind....you get that speed glide powder snowboard feeling

7
Nice board. Is the hole for water drainage, wire routing or both?
drainage. The wire cannot be disconnected. It would be perfect if it had a waterproof plug for the battery box. But i think there might be an issue with the amount of current needed for a waterproof plug, but dont quote me on that.
I have half-heartedly looked into removable connections and people in DIY community have discussed options.  There are various 3-pin connectors that seem like they'd work, either connecting the motor and esc along the wire somewhere convenient, or installing a waterproof boat-deck mount in the box.  However, these options wouldn't work well for you, as you'd have to make the through hull hole quite big to accommodate the plug.  Or maybe getting crazy with it: the hole through the board has a has a deck mount on board bottom that the motor wire plugs into, then on board top another deck mount that the box wire connects to.  That's two connections to manage but nicely sleek compared to a wire over the tail.

8
The old maxim of board shapers is that clean design makes for great boards, and wacky tails make for great sales. For some reason, people think fanciful tail designs are important, but in general, it's the least important element of board design. I think foil boards might be an exception to that rule since they spend a lot of time in the air, and the transition from floating to two feet above the water is critical. But I can't help but call bullshit on this design. It looks like wallet bait.

That's a great line, going to steal that. But substitute lines so that the rhyme matches  ;D  "clean designs make for great lines, wacky tails make for great sales"

9
I've tried to interpret the German reviews, but the auto translate is mainly spouting gibberish...

To my ears, most board design jive talk sounds like a bad German translation.  :o 8) :P

10
Is there more link on building my own faux drive? what is the cost for your current setup and do you need some software or coding knowledge.  Thanks

First step: ask PonoBill, he's forgotten way more than I'll ever know.  :-) 

I think cost is roughly $600-700US.  Your best resource is the Foil Zone forum, look for the Foil Drive Assist DIY thread.   It's a little intimidating, the group is super heavy techies.  But you can find some helpful posts on the parts you need.  I have a buddy who was into RC Gliders, he built one for himself and for me too.  The connecting of the electronic parts was not as technical as I thought, basic soldering.  The ESC (speed control) tuning required some interface with computer -- not coding level, but some tech.  The mast mount and prop required 3d printer, which my buddy bought, or getting parts printed online -- there are public domain files on FoilZone.

So...lots of fiddling around, not for the faint of heart, but it's doable.  All of the parts are bought from China, basically they are e-skateboard motors and controls. I am little surprised one of the big companies (maytech, flipsky) haven't made an easy diy knock off version yet.     

11
PS in case mods or admins are reading this...I moved my reply above to an earlier Foil Drive thread....but can't figure out how delete it. I guess the Modify button is time limited? As it doesn't show as available.

12
Moved here from tail rocker thread:

Quote from: dns on Today at 10:21:01 AM
    Funny, I was just talking about this at the beach yesterday. We were discussing putting a hole all the way through  the deck and mounting the battery pack longitudinally right above the foil. Heat sink would be exposed on the bottom of the board.  That would make it nice and low profile and mitigate the heat and swing weight issues.


I am on diy foil drive v2.1. (aka Faux Drive)

The foil drive is designed to be an add-on to an existing board/foil.  The system works but the wires and box are cumbersome. If building a board from scratch, you could definitely do better.  That's a really interesting idea about installing on the bottom....the worry is your water proofing has to be 100% of you're screwed.

For installing on board top, having the wire come through the board would be an improvement -- best in show would be efoil style with a hollow mast and the wire running under the mast plate. Another option is a through hull handle like the new armstrong boards use, with wire through that.

For the battery and electronics, you could have the box sit in a recessed area in deck, ideally flush with board deck, still use the waterproof box.  Next level up from there is to build a hatch in the board like efoils. I am not sure if the heat sink inside that hatch would provide enough cooling, or you'd need to expose it, or use water cooling.   

I have found my FD is fun in surf ... only had chance to try it twice. Flat water, mixed results. I am skipping the middle man and building a full efoil next, as it's the same everything just bigger. Going bigger! :-)  What changed my mind was seeing my buddy ripping around way outside on a big day, picking off bombs on the shoulder.  I picture leaving port to travel 5km to chase ferry and freighter wakes, no tow boat or wind assist required.  Not quite the same as unassisted wave foil riding...but I am sure it will be lots of fun in its own different way.

13
Funny, I was just talking about this at the beach yesterday. We were discussing putting a hole all the way through  the deck and mounting the battery pack longitudinally right above the foil. Heat sink would be exposed on the bottom of the board.  That would make it nice and low profile and mitigate the heat and swing weight issues.

[sorry for full-on thread hijack]

I am on diy foil drive v2.1. (aka Faux Drive)

The foil drive is designed to be an add-on to an existing board/foil.  The system works but the wires and box are cumbersome. If building a board from scratch, you could definitely do better.  That's a really interesting idea about installing on the bottom....the worry is your water proofing has to be 100% of you're screwed.

For installing on board top, having the wire come through the board would be an improvement -- best in show would be efoil style with a hollow mast and the wire running under the mast plate. Another option is a through hull handle like the new armstrong boards use, with wire through that. 

For the battery and electronics, you could have the box sit in a recessed area in deck, ideally flush with board deck, still use the waterproof box.  Next level up from there is to build a hatch in the board like efoils. I am not sure if the heat sink inside that hatch would provide enough cooling, or you'd need to expose it, or use water cooling.   

I have found my FD is fun in surf ... only had chance to try it twice. Flat water, mixed results. I am skipping the middle man and building a full efoil next, as it's the same everything just bigger. Going bigger! :-)  What changed my mind was seeing my buddy ripping around way outside on a big day, picking off bombs on the shoulder.  I picture leaving port to travel 5km to chase ferry and freighter wakes, no tow boat or wind assist required.  Not quite the same as unassisted wave foil riding...but I am sure it will be lots of fun in its own different way.

14
Pono, I get that, but It looks like the discussion was around the tail section rocker not the foil box location. Granted, they are close in proximity. Maybe I am missing something or interpreted the first incorrectly. I thought we were talking about flat bottom where the foil box is located and then the bit after that towards the tail. The bit after the foil box being the subject here. "Tail rocker" not foil box rocker.

If you are focused only on the area past foil box, then you are talking about tail shape, tail kick, tail chines, etc.  Rocker is the curve on the bottom of surfboard, from the nose to the centre line, then from there to the tail.  Surfboards are curved like a banana. Foil boards vary, some having both nose rocker and tail rocker, some just nose rocker from the midpoint or a point forward of it, some being flat from midpoint through the foil boxes, others have substantial curve through to the tail (rocker).  The new Armstrong board being the most extreme example I've seen recently for extensive tail rocker...a couple inches from I recall.  The Fanatic sky boards had only a little, maybe half inch, with more for the shorter boards I think.

To measure rocker, hold a 6' ruler from the midpoint back, you may be surprised how many foilboards have some.  And yes, shims are for people who don't want any tail rocker, so shimming the back bolts makes it flat/neutral from the midpoint.

15
When I was heavy into making board last year and couple years prior, I'd measure up any board I got my hands on.  Most surf and sup foil boards had some tail rocker from the boards mid-point, some a lot more than others.  As it was explained to me, this gives the board a more "nose up" feel, like riding a snowboard in powder.  Watching a surfer on a no tail rocker and low nose rocker board, it can look like the board is angled down sometimes, which gives the wrong feel.  I think this is more for surf foil, where you paddle with the nose out and board angled a little up -- so the foil fuselage is horizontal/level at this angle.  But for sup foil, you paddle the board flat, so want minimal or no tail rocker to achieve same thing.  Wing foil perhaps the tail rocker could help with take off, getting the angle at the top of a pump -- but that is probably more about low aspect pumping style (up and down) vs high aspect (more like a jet taking off).  So I suspect that may be part of this, the trend of HA foils has made boards more likely to need flat tails, same with the no tail kick trend (ginxu notwithstanding).

Latest board I checked out is the new Armstrongs, with their Forward Geometry.  Designed for ride further forward. The foil mount is close to the center of the board. The tail rocker is extreme -- like a surfboard.  That's completely opposite of what most boards are now and what most of you are saying, yet one of the most popular boards in the world. 

So...how to reconcile that 180 degree difference in design opinion?  The cynic in me says one logical answer is that it makes an unsubstantial difference either way.  Subtle differences in the ride, good or bad, for different conditions ... but fundamentally both work. Particularly as when you're powered up the ease of take off is completely irrelevant, you pop up in 1 second on first pump. As well, for intermediates and up -- I now often spent 30-60 minutes at a time without a touch down or wipeout, so who care about bottom shape when I am in the air?  A lot of this stuff is shiny fishing lures to attract fishermen rather than fish.  ::)     :o ;D

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