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Messages - paidmydues
1
« on: March 04, 2014, 10:26:17 PM »
I didn't even go out,looked at Kanaha,closing out even on the smaller ones thanks to the west angle of this swell,went over to Paukukalo,(Big Lefts)and Wai'ehu,too small.At Wai'ehu(SandPiles),sat on a log,watching some guys learning to longboard and to SUP,showing my friend the channel to paddle out from,and telling him how I almost always catch fish while whipping in that channel,and lo and behold,looked like a 6 foot tiger from the size and distance of the fins,inside of the surfers,in that channel.All that rain we had.
2
« on: February 25, 2014, 03:09:36 PM »
I bet it's good for balance,yikes,that thing is huge.I read an article in a mag about this famous kayak guy that was swallowed in Africa by a croc a couple years back.Now i don't feel so dumb surfing with tiger sharks around( still dumb, but at least there are others like us!)
3
« on: February 21, 2014, 09:33:10 AM »
when caught inside,please don't paddle in front of the person that has caught that wave to try to escape it,pay the price and let that person make the wave.It can get very frustrating for the person trying to make the wave having to go around you,and not able to stay in the pocket.Mahalo
4
« on: February 19, 2014, 11:19:00 PM »
Yesterday I was on my shortboard, at Ho'okipa, sitting in the lineup and a bunch of bait fish jumped all around me. The light was not very good, so after a moment gathering my thoughts, I decided to open my eyes under the water and see if I could see anything. All I saw was a large greyish something swimming away from me. I am trying to convince myself it was a large Ulua, haha! Definitely would have felt more comfortable on a SUP! Surf tomorrow?
That was most likely the monk seal that has been hanging around the last few days.Today it surfed a wave to the beach and hauled itself out to sun for a few hours.Hookipa has been epic the last couple of days.Lanes was going off.
5
« on: February 05, 2014, 11:52:48 PM »
Never been to Japan,but was told by co workers of asian ancestry who worked there(Filipino,Vietnamese) that it's a very racist country.That's what those signs make me think of.I am sure to catch some flak on this one LOL.The Japanese surfers must be a different breed because they are super cool. Puamana,you're right about the David Nuuhiwa board being a great noserider,I once surfed an epoxy one that was all trashed and looked like shat and could not believe how such an ugly thing could noseride so well!Not too many Supers can noseride,having never done so on a longboard before suping,too bad because it looks so elegant.The thing to remember when noseriding is to do it right at the start of the wave,on the steepest section,not at the end or on the shoulder .
6
« on: January 27, 2014, 07:20:54 PM »
After Headmount told me how much he liked that movie and wanted to see it a second time,I went to see it today.Chicken skin. When the VA sends me a statement of how much they paid out in medical bills for me,they always have a " Thank you for your service " at the end.I never truly appreciated that until watching this, not for myself,but for these guys and all special forces.
7
« on: January 22, 2014, 02:30:27 PM »
Amdro works,but rain renders it ineffective,and the product will eventually leach into aquifer or ocean I'm told.Amdro is also too big for the ants to carry back effectively.And the colonies can go arboreal or terrestrial very easily.
8
« on: January 22, 2014, 02:19:42 PM »
For a different point of VIEW,I totally dislike the frigging things.While they are fun to fly on the operator's part( my son has one), and they provide just beautiful footage,like the one at Pipe,I hate the thing flying around when I'm surfing.The other day at Ho'okipa,Elliot Leboe,a frequent contributor of Pe'ahi footage,was filming JohnJohn with one all morning.That thing was a nuisance.I dread the day they are more affordable,with a longer lasting battery, and every @#$%head will be flying one around to video their son/daughter/friend/customer.Call me grumpy I guess, I sure hope I am wrong and it will not happen.
9
« on: January 21, 2014, 05:45:43 PM »
I did the translating of Tahitian and French in Tahiti.There is a lot more to this that did not make it into the final cut,some heartbreaking stories of ruined crops and loss of livelihood,loss of safe places to evacuate children from schools in case of tsunami,etc...We need more agricultural inspectors,and new shipping rules of accountability to protect us.
10
« on: January 21, 2014, 05:39:17 PM »
PB,Acid drops right next to pools on the Lahaina side,next to that is Shark Pit.Kanaha was the bomb today.I don't know this guy's name,but see him out there ,SUP,he was tucked under the lip for what looked like 50 yards,beautiful with the spray feathering up.
11
« on: January 20, 2014, 10:29:30 PM »
I remember a morning when a wave broke OVER THE ROOF of the pavilions @ Ho'okipa, swept off some dude that was laying down on a bench .I think that was the swell when Laird and Brett Lickle where outside Sprecks and Brett cut his calf.
12
« on: January 20, 2014, 10:21:21 PM »
I can name a couple breaks between Puamana and the Lahaina breakwall,from Puamana going north,Hot Sands,Pools,Acid drops,Shark pit,then the Breakwall.The pass in the reef is Shark Pit, ('Uha 'Ilio is the Hawaiian Name,it means Dog's leg,as the channel is such shaped).If anyone cares to know,The Break wall area is Ka Papa limu a Pi'ilani,Chief Pi'ilani's limu( edible seaweed) bed. In front of the 505 building is the area named 'Uo.Famous surfing spots of the ancient Hawaiians. Those spots go off on a big North or North East swell.
13
« on: January 18, 2014, 09:58:28 AM »
yeah PB,it's Lahaina,not Lahina.Where is hole in the wall? Do you mean hole in the HEAD? The rocky point @ Honokeana?
14
« on: January 18, 2014, 09:53:24 AM »
@ Chef,yeah,I was laid off (again) dec 29,they just want to sell the business,2bad,it was a great gig,buying some ready made junk,on the + side,plenty of ocean time for me,paddling & surfing.
15
« on: January 17, 2014, 08:47:37 AM »
surfed Hookipa almost 4 hours Thursday am, there was a couple 10 footers hawaiian by the time I came back to the beach after noon.
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