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Messages - sflinux

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The Shape Shack / Re: Board Thickness Effect
« on: January 22, 2021, 08:22:13 AM »
Congrats on the new board.  With the ride report, perhaps mention any shape differences you notice with the board (i.e. tail shape, tail width, rocker, etc).
1)  The boards would have a different guild factor.  One board will sit "higher" in the water.  That board will require more force to get the rail to engage. 
2) I would think the 26" board will glide better through the water at speed.  The 28" board might have faster acceleration due to lower aspect ratio.  I agree that 26" would be less stable.  I don't consider 4.5" to be too thick.
Thinner and domed rails make the board feel more tippy.  But they also make the board feel more reactive (race car versus sedan).
Sit down/knee boarders with their low center of gravity can really leverage their weight to get a rail to sink.  SUPs have that advantage over conventional surfers because we can use the force of the paddle.
Board design is super complicated: 
Tail shape: I find pintails more stable than squash, but squash turn more aggressive.  I like pintails for big surf, squash is fun in smaller surf.
Bottom contours: The bottom contours can have a huge effect on the ride and will determine on what type of ride it is best suited for (mushy versus steep).  A convex nose with slight v would be better for small/softer surf.  Whereas single concave to double concave with strong V might be better for hollow/steep fast surf.
Rocker line: Affect how a board fits in the wave.  Flatter rocker paddles faster and accelerates faster on a wave.  Bigger rocker will make a board match the line of a steeper wave.
Fins: huge effect
Board length: longer has more swing weight
nose shape: wider is more stable, narrower easier to punch through waves, and less likely to catch on steep drops.
volume: how does the board support your weight
With all the board attributes, rail thickness is lowest on my radar.  If I had a board in mind that I wanted a certain length and width, I would tweak the rail thickness to get the desired volume.   
I would think for high-performance rail turns, the thinner the rail the better.  But similarly, the narrower the better as your foot is closer to the rail to weigh the turn, where on a wider board you would have to move your foot and probably not be able to leverage the turn as well.  And similarly with volume, the lower the volume, the easier to get rail in the water.

Training, Diet, and Fitness / Re: At home training ap?
« on: January 21, 2021, 07:35:11 AM »
My New Years resolution was more leg work.  I started using a jump rope and have seen positive results.  I also added a carve board to help me work on my rail game.
It is hard to recommend training without knowing what your goal is?  If it is to just lose weight, I would self reflect on diet (limit refined sugar and alcohol intake is always a good start as the liver is the only organ in your body which can metabolize those and it has an efficiency capacity which you can overload).  And when looking at "losing weight" remember that a scale also measures your bone and muscle density, where less is not always better than more.
K.I.S.S. activities that could benefit your prone surfing:
If getting back into prone surfing after a hiatus, volume will be your friend.
Excercise bands:
There are a ton of exercises with Swiss balls.  Bosu balls are cool too.
More advanced training would be squats and kettlebells but you want to make sure you are educated on how to do this correctly, as incorrectly it could cause more harm than good.

SUP General / Re: Haley at Mavericks
« on: January 13, 2021, 10:56:07 AM »
Beasho thanks for sharing.  Absolutely Amazing. 
What size board is Haley riding?  The wave almost makes the board look too small.
Does Haley make his own 20 ft leash, or does he have it custom made?  A 20' leash is on my wish list.  Love my Crow Haley waist leash, thanks for the recommendation.

I like looking at guild factor.  This website gives a rough guide:
Basically says:
a beginner should have a guild factor (gf) = 2
intermediate (gf) = 1.7
advanced (gf) = 1.3
Your current board has a guild factor of 1.9.
Both of the boards you are looking at have the same guild factor:
sunova 10' x 30.5" 137L gf = 1.5
new deal 10' x 29" 139L gf = 1.5
Stability & wave catching ability are pretty high priorities for me.
Based on your priorities, you may want to lean towards the wider board.  I haven't tried either of these brands.
With respect to a guild factor of 1.5, I think that is a perfect next jump down for you.  I made the greatest progression while riding a gf 1.5 board (should have skipped the 1.67 in hindsight).
I am the same height and weight as you. This past year, my guild factor progression has gone 1.67 pintail (@29.125" wide), 1.52 pintail (@33" wide), 1.55 squash tail (@32" wide), 1.4 pintail (@ 30" wide), 1.44 squash (@30" wide), L41 ST 1.4(@30.5" wide), 1.39 pintail (@29.5" wide), L41 Simsup 1.37(@31" wide), L41 TV Dinner 1.28 (@29" wide).  Now that winter swell is here I bounce between a 1.93 pintail (@ 28 7/8" wide) and a 1.52 pintail (@ 30" wide).  But with the additional weight in winter rubber those gf are probably more like 1.8 and 1.4 respectively.
I think having a longboard and a shorter board is a great combo.  I lean towards the shorter board if the tide is low and the waves are steep and pitching.
You may want to check out Blue Planet as they have some fun boards in the 140L range.  Their rails are nice and thin compared to the AllWave.

@supnsurf: thanks for sharing.  What size did you get?

I've been very happy with the Takoon wings. Where I live I use the 7m most of all.
Takoon tested highly here:
The 7M Takoon has the best published lowest wind range 7-18k.
Starboard Freewing Air 7M = 8-20k
Gong Superpower 9M 8-15k
F-one 6M 8-20k
Slingwing 6.4M 8.7-17.4k
Anyone tested the low end of the 6M BoardridingMaui?

Random / Re: Robert Redfield - CDC - Covid
« on: December 18, 2020, 04:48:09 PM »
New England Journal of Medicine, Safety and Efficacy of the BNT162b2 mRNA Covid-19 Vaccine  (December 10, 2020):
"two injections, 21 days apart"
"early protection by the vaccine, starting as soon as 12 days after the first dose."
"in the interval between the first and second dose, the observed vaccine efficacy against Covid-19 was 52%, and in the first 7 days after dose 2, it was 91%, reaching full efficacy against disease with onset at least 7 days after dose 2."
"This report includes 2 months of follow-up after the second dose of vaccine for half the trial participants and up to 14 weeks' maximum follow-up for a smaller subset.  Therefore, both the occurrence of adverse events more than 2 to 3.5 months after the second dose and more comprehensive information on the duration of protection remain to be determined"
"These data do not address whether vaccination prevents asymptomatic infection."
"The development of BNT162b2 was initiated on January 10, 2020, when the SARS-CoV-2 genetic sequence was released by the Chinese Center for Disease Control and Prevention and disseminated globally by the GISAID (Global Initiative on Sharing All Influenza Data) initiative."

It will be curious to see if vaccinated people act like asymptomatic people in the population, spreading it to others.
So 12 days after your first dose, if you haven't been exposed to Covid-19 yet, you now have a 48% chance of developing a Covid-19 case.
28 days after the vaccination is over (7 days after second dose;28 days after the first dose), if you haven't been exposed to Covid-19 yet, you now have a 5% chance of developing a Covid-19 case.
But we still don't know if those vaccinated, if exposed to Covid-19, can transmit/spread Covid-19 the same as an asymptomatic unvaccinated individual.
As of this month, the length of protection from the vaccination has only been shown to be effective for 2 to 3.5 months after vaccination.

General Discussion / Re: Can you safely glue half of a 3 piece paddle?
« on: December 17, 2020, 11:54:54 AM »
If you want to save money, consider making your own paddle.  A wood paddle can be made out of a wooden dowel (closet) and a scrap piece of wood.  Build cost is $10 or less.  I use these type of paddles for flatwater paddling, much preferred over my first aluminum/plastic paddle that came bundled with my first board.  Unless you are racing or surfing, I don't see the need for a $$$ paddle.

I want to return to the things that I loved about SUP:
high wave count
sufficient stability to paddle for 2-3 hours even in chop with occasional sitting
ability to cruise the line up

In my head- something around 9' 29" and 125-135L sounds a nice balance. A decent performance rail and tail
I think your ballpark of 9' sounds reasonable.  I think your ballpark of 29" sounds reasonable, but if the rail is nice and thin I wouldn't worry about going wider.  Your literage gives you a guild factor of (gf) = 1.32-1.42, which is reasonable for performance.
When I think of: high wave count, glide, stable, cruise the lineup, what comes to mind is a longboard.
Here are some boards to consider:
Deep Dogman 10'2" x 29" x 4 3/8" 146L gf=1.53
Genration Kanga 9' x 31.75" 142.5L gf=1.5
Infinity New Deal 9'6" x 31 141L gf=1.48
BluePlanet Fun Stick 9'4" x 33" 140L gf=1.47
BluePlanet Sweet Spot 9'2" x 32" 140L gf=1.47
Infinity New Deal 10' x 29" 139L gf=1.46
Genration SP25 8'8" x 31 5/16" 137.7L gf=1.45

Starboard Pro 8'7" x 29.5" 135L gf=1.42
Deep Jackson Close 10'1" x 30" x 4" 133L gf=1.4
Genration Kanga 8'9" x 30 7/8" 130.9L gf=1.38
Genration SP25 8'5" x 30 7/16" 126.2L gf=1.33
BluePlanet All Good 8'8" x 31" 126L gf=1.33
Starboard Longboard 10' x 29" 123L gf=1.29
Sunova?  Perhaps Creek can chime in on Sunova boards he would recommend.

I have 119-129L L41 boards (gf=1.29-1.4), but I prefer them in clean summer shortboard conditions.  I often go out fresh on L41s, then switch to a bigger board if I get tired.  For me, I don't think I will drop any more in volume unless there is a foil underneath. 
Out of the brands listed, I've tried BluePlanet and Starboard.  BluePlanet boards are fun and would satisfy most if not all of your criteria.

Gear Talk / Re: Starboard Whopper Jr. in OH waves
« on: December 11, 2020, 06:55:16 AM »
In windy conditions, the board has struck my head with this technique (board caught wind and flew).  I do find this technique effective in relatively strong onshore conditions, where you have more surface area when standing up versus on your knees. 
We had relatively strong onshore conditons yesterday.  When it is windy, when any part of the board (i.e. nose) gets off the water, the wind will catch it can throw it.  You can see this when you try to push a board over a wave with your hands.  That is why the board whacked me in the head.  For the knee paddle method, you want your knees to be in front of the handle.  Get speed, then as the wave is about to hit, lean back and pop over just like in the video.  If you are positioned far enough forward, the pressure from your knees will keep the nose of the board down enough so it doesn't catch wind.  You can practice the technique with your hands.  If your front hand is too far back, the wind is strong enough to pitch the nose of the board up.  As more surface area is exposed to the wind, the pressure from the wind grows dramatically.
One inquisitive local self-proclaimed big wave surfer (Non-sup) asked me if I only stand up paddle to make it to the outside.  Thanks to Clay's video, I said I do whatever it takes to get to the outside with absolutely zero shame (prone, knees, stand up).  My shoulders are not strong enough to soley prone paddle out on big days on any surf craft.  Being able to paddle on knees in addition to standing allows me to hit different muscle groups, which is an advantage to make what feels like a marathon paddle out on big beach break days.   
@surlygringo: Nice tip, thanks for sharing.

Gear Talk / Re: Starboard Whopper Jr. in OH waves
« on: December 08, 2020, 02:32:50 PM »
Everyone says never knee paddle... I say bull $h/T. I can paddle very fast on my knees and never have a problem getting out.
I tell everyone:
"if you want to get out when it's bigger... watch an old guy" they can't fight it, so they have to think their way out.
Great pictorial Creek.
Joe Blair has a video where he describes the knee paddle method (<10 ft of white water) (~5min mark):
In windy conditions, the board has struck my head with this technique (board caught wind and flew).  I do find this technique effective in relatively strong onshore conditions, where you have more surface area when standing up versus on your knees.  I think this technique is better than trying to prone paddle through white water when the waves get bigger, but I prefer the "ollie" technique when the waves get overhead.
With regards to overheating, my arms are the last thing to get cold.  A short sleeve wetsuit is worth considering.  If a 3/2 is too hot, a 1.5mm is worth considering.  And if your arms get cold, throw on a 1.5 mm top.
A lot of heat is lost from your head.  I like to keep my ears covered to prevent surfer's ear.  For hoods, my head can get cold with just a wind stopper fleece hood in winter conditions (good for air>55).  A 1-1.5 mm neoprene hood is just enough to keep my head warm (good for air 50-55).  A 3/2 neoprene hood can be too warm if the sun is out (good for air <50). 

Gear Talk / Re: Starboard Whopper Jr. in OH waves
« on: December 08, 2020, 07:47:54 AM »
Clay made a really nice video on the topic:
I've noticed that after popping the nose up, you need to move your back front forward before the wave hits you to have success.  It is also important to get your momentum up, then do a stroke before the wave and remove the paddle before the wave catches it, or the wave will pull your body's weight back.  Try to keep paddling (after the wave hits you) to move forward and/or maintain balance.
My first winter SUP surfing, I also broke some ribs.  I fell in front of the board and the wave pushed the board into my ribs.   Now I wear an impact vest under my suit as per Beasho's recommendation:
I grew up bodyboarding and would get sore ribs from prone paddling.  My ribs really like prone paddling with an impact vest.  I have tried Nike Pro Combat Hyperstrong "football" padded compression top and like it (cut off the shoulder pads, and trimmed excess fabric around the armpit).  I wear it in smaller surf, with my smaller boards, or when it gets too hot for the neoprene impact vest.  Then when the surf gets big and cold, I wear both inside my suit.  When the surf gets over double overhead, I wear an additional pullover impact vest outside my suit.  My waist leash does a good job of keeping it secure.  This winter, I also started wearing impact shorts under my suit (I have been recovering from sciatica due to a skateboard injury), with no impact on mobility, but with added floatation.  With all of these layers, I can get overheated in 52 degree water, wearing a 3/2 backzip full wetsuit. 
Here is a cool picture of J-Bird on a Whopper:

Gear Talk / Kanulock maintenance
« on: December 03, 2020, 02:44:15 PM »
Kanulocks are lockable tie-downs.  They have steel cables inside nylon webbing.  They keep honest people honest, and securely link a board to a roof rack.
The first generation I had was labeled SPT.  The keys had plastic at the keyring part and were fragile and would break.  Something happened to the strap where the metal core would extend outside of the ends of the webbing.  This lock lasted 7 years before one of them would no longer lock and I bought the current Kanulock branded version.  The keys are all metal for this version, but the metal of the key is soft.  Make sure you have the tie-down pulled nice and tight before trying to lock.  If there is resistance to lock with the key, stop, try to pull the webbing tigher through the cam.  Once it is tight, the key should pivot like butter.  If you try to force the key to turn, the key could distort and break.
I've been using these kanulock branded tie-downs for a couple of years now.  The only maintenance I've ever done was spraying Boeshield T-9 in the locking mechanism if it ever started to feel gummy.  (i.e. after a rainy season).  It works like WD40, but is a clean version of it.

Recently I noticed the nylon was starting to feel crusty after a couple of years of use.  I ended up doing the following to refresh the straps:
I sprayed some fabric cleaner on the nylon, then rinsed the straps until the water went clear (I did not get the locks wet).  I allowed the straps to air dry for a few hours, then sprayed with Aerospace 303 UV Protection:
Then I would wipe it in with a rag.  I allowed the straps to dry overnight.
The straps now feel like new.  They no longer feel crusty and stiff.  They are smooth and slide through the lock easily.  I was a little worried that they would affect the tightness of the locking mechanism, but have tested them over a couple of weeks and they are solid.  The uv protectant should help the fibers of the webbing last longer.
I started using aerospace 303 on my favorite kites 15 years ago (those kites still look and feel brand new).  Would work well on wings too.
If you have a modern car with unpainted plastic, aerospace 303 will make it look like new again.  (Works much better than Armor All).

Gear Talk / Re: rail tape vs paddle guard
« on: December 02, 2020, 12:32:16 PM »
I am not a fan of rail tape.  I inherited a starboard with it and it still had chunks of kevlar on the rail missing.  Once the rail tape was removed, the rails looked ugly.  Ended up repairing and painting.
I have another board that I inherited with rail tape and it chafes me when I prone paddle the board.
I like my paddle guard on my carbon paddle.  Joe Blair was the first guy I knew using them.  I also paddle with wooden paddles (no paddle guard) and don't notice a difference.  I am not a racer.
The only benefit of a paddle cover is if you live in a hot environment and have carbon paddles (black+carbon+sun+heat=bad).  I sewed a nylon sleeve for my paddle with spare fabric for storage in my car (more inconspicuous).
When I first started I bought board bags for my boards, now I don't even use them anymore.  They just add to the weight while transporting.  And they get moldy when it rains.
I am hard on my gear and self-preservation comes first (Just snapped my 11' board in two this week swimming under a wave with a Crow Haley waist leash).  Respectful praise to Beasho's invaluable shared knowledge over the years.  Winter swell is here.

When you are out with your friend, exchange boards.  I've found testing a lot of different boards was informative.
I've tried a V2 quad set.  I like the speed and lack of drag they have, remind me of the Stretch set.  You can always add a nubster if you want more drive.
I come from a skateboard background and always felt right at home on Quads.   Quads remind me of riding bowls on a skateboard.  Small quads can feel like a skateboard in the rain.  But I appreciate the ride of a single fin too.  A single fin reminds me of bombing a hill on a skateboard.

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