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Messages - bigmak

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General Discussion / Re: Tips needed for discretely fitting in the line up.
« on: November 27, 2018, 08:10:21 PM »
Hi Mark

 I live near Pismo and I'm referring to the Pismo Beach pier and reefs at Shell beach area.  These spots have gotten very crowded.  I usually surf Oceano dunes area but when it gets to big I head for the reefs. It's 1 hour north to Morro Bay and 1.5 hours south to Santa Barbara. I much prefer to surf close to home.

  I have made a decision. I'm just going to surf the local reefs a lot more this winter. Crowds and attitudes is just the norm here now.   8)

Yeah, I feel you on this one.  Seems like Pismo has always been crowded, at least as long as I can remember.  From my memory, it's usually a lot of college kids from Cal Poly on shortboards. My buddies and I would head to Shell Beach to avoid the crowds, but sounds like that ain't possible anymore.  But if it's your break, then it's your break.  Familiarity and respect should help, no?

I often look at the cams down there on Surfline just to see how it's breaking and have noticed there's rarely anybody riding stand ups at the pier.  I only asked about MB/Cayucos b/c I've been out and seen a lot more older guys riding longboards and Sups in that area.     

If you want to see the ultimate shit show, check out the Pacifica cam on Surfline on a decent day.  I don't know how anybody has any fun or catches any waves.  Even on a weekday at 11am, it's stupid crowded.   

General Discussion / Re: Tips needed for discretely fitting in the line up.
« on: November 25, 2018, 02:04:05 PM »
Hey Will,

Just wondering where you're at on the Central Coast?  Morro Bay/Cayucos area or Pismo?  I live up in the Bay, but I learned to ride waves down there and still am down there at least a few times a year.  Seems there's always plenty of areas to surf in Morro Bay and not have to be in a crowd, particularly further north towards Cayucos which is where I prefer to go out, although right near the Rock and the Cayucos pier it's always ridiculously crowded.  Same at the pier in Pismo, but there's always Shell Beach and down by the dunes, right?  I've also gone out at spots in MB where there's a group or two of older guys out SUS'ing with no young groms around. 

This discussion is also funny for me as someone who bodyboarded before SUS'ing.  I never surfed prone.  While body boarding is more popular in SoCal and Central Coast (where my custom Toobs board was built), hardly anybody sponges in the Bay Area. Twenty years ago when I first moved here to the Bay, I felt like an outcast on my sponge and tried to make myself scarce.  My friends who surfed seemed embarrassed to be seen with me.  Also had to get used to surfers constantly heckling me for sponging, mainly because I sat inside and got all the waves they were too far out to catch.   

I'm often times the rarity on my stand up at my local breaks, although there's still quite a few people who SUS up here.  I tend to paddle out on my knees because I'm lazy and stay on my knees until I see sets rolling in.  Otherwise I'm literally towering over people.   I've noticed that now in my 40's with lots of grey in my beard, people don't talk shit to me much, but it also helps that I'm 6'5" @ 280.  I've definitely gotten a bit of stink eye near the Rock in Morro Bay, but nobody had the balls to say anything to me.         

Gear Talk / Re: Fanatic Allwave vs. Triton Foote
« on: May 20, 2018, 10:54:54 PM »
The Triton is leaps and bounds a better board than the Allwave!  Way more fun to ride!  Even though it's big, it turns on a dime.  It's super stable and just an amazing board.  Can't recommend it enough. 

I had Bill shape me a custom with a bit more volume as I'm bigger and taller than you, and even with the extra size, it's still a lot of fun to ride.  I've only ridden my 9'10 Allwave once in two years since I got my 10'4 Triton.  No comparison. 

Last I heard from Bill, you'll need to buy it from Flight boards on Oahu.  He didn't have any himself.       

NorCal / Re: What's the deal with Ocean Beach?
« on: February 20, 2018, 09:47:16 PM »
I feel like the waves get bigger the further south you go but my buddy sitting here told me Iím tripping. I just go out wherever I feel like it and where itís not too crowded and chase the peaks. If itís overhead or bigger itís usually too much work to get out. Thereís usually a SUPír or 2 out and if not, Iím big and old enough now I donít care about getting heckled by the younger guys and as long as you follow etiquette itís usually all good.

It was a different story when I was younger and used to sponge there a lot tho. Almost got into way too many fights.

Gear Talk / Re: Kanulock Board Damage
« on: July 31, 2017, 02:23:50 PM »
This post makes me nervous because next week I'm taking my 14' board up to Tahoe and will be driving 65-70mph through 100+ degree area for a couple of hours. I always worry about this but it hasn't been a problem in the past. Hopefully it holds up this time!

Gear Talk / Re: wetsuit with elbow pads?
« on: January 20, 2017, 01:37:26 PM »
Which brand is your suit? I have the same problem with my O'Neill Heat 3/2 and I ended up sending it in to them for a fix. Took about a month turn around. Expected a bill, but never got one, and at the same time they fixed a split in my 4/3 for free too! Both were out of warranty. Talk about killer customer service! Being a Cali boy, born and bred, and NorCal resident, O'Neill has my business forever. (They're also the only company that makes a suit in my size.) I guess you could also try a patch.

Gear Talk / Re: Which Naish Glide? I am pretty confused
« on: September 03, 2016, 05:15:23 PM »
I just bought a '16 Glide 14x30 GTW (because I'm a big guy) and according to the scale at my local shop it was 31lbs. I could've gotten the GT for much less but I wanted the lighter weight. At your size I'd go with the 14x29 as others have suggested. The 14 footers just cruise so nicely.

General Discussion / Re: HELP Need some advice
« on: August 18, 2016, 03:24:46 PM »
I own the Glide 14x30 GTW and I demoed the SIC.  Didn't get a chance to try the Amundson.  I'm 12 years younger than you but I weigh quite a bit more than you.  I really liked the SIC, l like all of SIC I demoed, but they didn't have enough volume for me.  It would be plenty for you though.  I'd also suggest you consider the Glide 14x29.  If you read reviews on it, people really notice the 1" difference and you don't necessarily need the extra volume of the 30". 


Technique / Re: Flatwater Paddling Technique Question
« on: August 18, 2016, 02:58:56 PM »
One quick follow up from looking at your signature.  Assume you're talking about the Naish Glide here, correct?  Not entirely familiar with the newer models but if the stock fin has changed much that isn't doing you many favors.  They used to be pretty straight and deep daggers--if that's still the case that's not doing you any favors.  Something swept back more like an Allison Ninja (what I use on mine) would help a bit with tracking.

Ya, it's a brand new '16 Glide and I ditched the stock fin asap.  Running a Futures Triangle Cutaway, the biggest one they make.  I'm a big guy and I like the larger fin for added stability.  I'm going to try another larger fin and see what I think.  Should arrive in the next day or two. 

Thanks again.


The only thing I disagree with creek about is paddling on your knees. I don't find that to be effective in getting out.

Although I tend to paddle out on my knees more than I like, the one big thing I don't like about it is getting hit in the balls!  It hurts like a mofo!   

Technique / Re: Flatwater Paddling Technique Question
« on: August 18, 2016, 11:32:57 AM »
Thanks for the quick responses.  It's funny because I thought a big touring flat water board would be easier to use and I find it requires way more finesse than my surf specific boards. 

I am in a parallel stance when I paddle.  And it is a displacement board.  I just figured out the whole leaning opposite of paddling side 3 sessions ago.  Seemed counterintuitive to me, but totally worked.  I know for a fact that my left leg is a tad longer than my right and I tend to favor/weight that foot.  When I was younger I skateboarded a lot and ride goofy and push with my left, so it's my dominant foot for board sports (skating, snowboarding, SUS), even tho I'm right handed. 

I've played with stroke technique too and just get frustrated. Guess I'll just have to keep practicing and maybe try a slightly staggered stance.  Like I said before, I thought this would be a lot easier than it is, but it really does take a different set of skills.  Kinda cool and fun to be learning something new tho.       

Technique / Flatwater Paddling Technique Question
« on: August 18, 2016, 09:40:57 AM »
Hey guys,

I feel kinda dumb even asking about this but I can't figure this shit out to save my life.  I usually SUS but I recently bought a touring/race board for the days I can't get to the surf and to stay in shape.  New new board is big, 14x30 and I love it, but something's not right.  When I paddle on my right side, I go straight.  I don't turn and it tracks straight.  But as soon as I change sides and paddle on my left I turn to the right really quickly. I only have a handful of rides on the new board and the last couple times out I spend 80% of the time paddling on my right side, which is kind of bass ackwards for me because I had surgery at the beginning of the year to address a left neck/arm/shoulder issue and bought a flat water board to rehab and now my left arm and traps aren't getting any work. I also have a really hard time turning the board to the left period.   

And here's what has me so confused:  When I take out my SUS boards to surf, I have the exact opposite effect.  I usually paddle on the left and tend to turn right to get into waves because I ride goofy. 

So, seems to me either something is wrong with my new board?  Or with the fin?  I just ordered a new fin, so plan on trying it out to see what happens.  Any suggestions on what to look for?  The board looks straight and not warped at all.         

General Discussion / Re: "Big Man" Boards?
« on: August 08, 2016, 10:26:49 AM »
I am 6'5", about to turn 40 and currently weigh 325lbs.  My ideal weight is somewhere around 280.  I own 4 SUP boards and SUP regularly, both in small surf and on flat water, as it's the one fun exercise I can do right now due to the fact I'm rehabbing from surgery from back in January.  If you weigh 350 and just want a board to putz around on, then a 280L board will float you.  A 250L board will float you too, but for me, I personally wouldn't find it ideal, but that's just me.  If you were surfing, I'd say it'd be good because my current SUS board I use all the time is 237L and it's perfect at my current weight.  What will float you, and what would be ideal for what you're looking to do are two different things.  When I demoed boards, I tried out a 180L board for fun and sure it floated me, but my feet were under the water.  It'd be ok for surf, but for flat water paddling, it'd suck because of how much work it'd be to paddle.

I just bought a new board just for flat water and did a lot of research and demoed a bunch of boards and my board is 14'x30" and has 315L of volume and I love it.  Floats me so well.  I was adamant about having a board with over 300L because of what I wanted to do with it.  If you are only going to do flat water paddling in lakes and rivers I would personally recommend a board as close to or over 300L as you can find but that's just my 2 cents. 

If you can, demo boards and just see what works.  I think wide is good for big folks learning.  The board I learned to surf on was 11'3" and is 38" wide with 252L of volume and I weighed 340 at the time.  It's the perfect board for a BIG person learning how to surf.  Now it just collects dust tho.   

Gear Talk / Re: Starboard atlas extra vs avanti
« on: August 04, 2016, 04:38:04 PM »
Get the Avanti.  I'm 6'5" and right now I'm back up to 325 and been surfing my Avanti lately.  I've used it when I was as heavy as 340 and at my latest "lightest" weight of 295.  (In my opinion it works best in surf when 325 or less)  It's my board for small, mushy waves and maybe up to about waist to chest high.  It's a tank, but it's just so easy to ride.  I can walk all over it.  I can stay out forever because I don't get tired as quickly.  I love it.  Don't know if I'll ever get rid of it, but a lighter carbon version is sounding a bit tempting.  Although I don't find the weight to be too big of an issue and I have the AST version.  Not too much fun tho when surf starts to get a little bigger tho.  I took it out once in overheard surf (only because it was the only board I had on me) and broke the leash like immediately. 

General Discussion / Re: MIA Paddler - Tahoe
« on: June 20, 2016, 01:19:34 PM »
Been meaning to post to this because I was actually up at Tahoe when this happened.  I got there the day the young guy disappeared and heard about it the next morning from my aunt.  I had my brand new 14' board that I'd picked up the day before and as tempted as I was to take it out, it was way too windy, even for me who's fairly confident on a board.  My turnaround point for my regular paddles up there is Obexers, right where the guy disappeared.  I turned around there the morning after the event and it was eerie knowing somebody had just drowned right near where I was paddling. 

This trip up was my first time in a few years that I used a leash and waist PFD up there.  I'm a good swimmer and don't worry about getting back to shore if something happens but there was a lot of wind that weekend and better safe than sorry.  I felt like the new big 14'er could get blown away pretty easily.  And my cousin told me the authorities started passing out tickets last year for no PFD.  I also fell in once during the 3 different times I got out and it was cold.  Damn cold!  Especially with the wind after I got back on the board.  I had my 1mm shorts on under my board shorts, but only a rash guard on top.  Thankfully I was close to home when I fell.  Headed straight to the hot tub after I got out and it took a few minutes to warm back up.  Poor kid probably got too cold to make it back.  Sad story.     

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