Messages

I'm in my third season of using a custom-fit SupSkin "Ultimate" drysuit for SUP sessions, both flat water and downwinding but not surfing. I didn't fit any of their stock sizes.

Pros: easy on, easy off. No movement restriction while paddling. MUCH more breathable for high exertion work where I'm sweating a lot. I overheated in wetsuits. I just wear base layers underneath, regular poly stuff. Good wind chill protection. Plenty waterproof for paddling in the rain and the occasional dunks. Latex cuffs except at the neck, which is neoprene for comfort.

Cons: Pricey, goofy looking, and after 2+ seasons the fabric is starting to wet out quickly. I probably should have washed it more often early on, which is its own hassle. The custom route took 6+ months to arrive and then I had to send it back for an alteration, so there's that. But it's a pleasure now that it fits.

I've been really happy with these half socks from Victory, which were recommended by another Zoner. UV and heat protection, mostly, no heavy padding. Depends what you need...

https://www.amazon.com/Stand-paddle-board-touring-boards/dp/B009D50ZYE/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=victory+kore+dry+sup&qid=1630356085&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-5

Anyone need a bunch of Speed Coach stuff? Mine died and I've decided to use my GPS watch instead.

I have a charger, 3 mounting pieces that attach to your boards, 2 receivers that fit into them, 1 plain mounting receiver, a white bumper (needs a cleaning), and the dongle that gives you access to the training pack. I used this with the NK SUP Model 2 Speed Coach. $30 gets it anywhere in the CONUS and saves it from landfill.

That Whiplash looks like a great board. Let us know how it goes!

Hey SoleandPaddle, I just got back from my first session on a 21.5" starboard sprint. I know you're not keen on starboards, but thought i'd share my impression since my progression has been similar to yours. Their wood carbon boards cost about the same as the RS.

I bought an RS 26" in 2018. Felt tippy for a few months, then way too stable. Replaced it with a RS 23" in 2019. Felt tippy for a while. Bought a bigger fin...then reverted to stock fin, then to a 7" fin. Now I use the 23" with the small fin in just about every local condition, up to about 15mph winds. So I wanted a faster board with more challenge to develop my skills.

The 21.5" Sprint felt more stable than I expected--only a little more tippy than the 23"--and has loads of secondary stability. Granted, it was very calm water and I was using the large stock fin. I may sing a different tune when the wind picks up. The Sprint reacts more to the small shifts in footwork or paddling than my RS, which is a good thing. Instant feedback. I'm 6' and 170lbs and was surprised how high the 21.5" sits out of the water. It has more volume than and sits higher in the water than my 23" RS. With so much board out of the water, it will be interesting to see how it handles in cross winds and cross chop.

Anyway, at 122lb with an athletic background, it's no surprise that the 24.5" feels like a boat on flat water. I bet you'll be fine with a 21.5" board or even narrower if you find something that strikes your interest. Especially on flat lakes like you said. Best of luck!

O'neill Superfreak Tropical "boots" have been great for me. Boots is the wrong word for them. They're low cut and slip on and off fast like a pair of Vans. Minimal warmth and minimal protection, just enough for walking across the gravel. You can still feel your board.

https://bigwinds.com/products/oneill-17-booties-superfreak-tropical-boot-rt/

I've got it in my head to buy a Starboard Sprint, and the "wood carbon" construction seems easier to find. Anyone have experience with wood versus Starboard's carbon sandwich model? My thoughts:

• 3.5 pounds is a lot of extra weight. Maybe not so much on the water, but lugging the thing around. The board I'm using now is carbon and slightly lighter than either Starboard, and even it can feel like log to carry back to the van some days.
• On the other hand, $1,400 buys a lot of tacos.
• Is one construction more durable than the other? I'd guess more material on the wood carbon would make it stronger, but I'm wary of wood sucking up water through an unnoticed ding.
• Any noticeable performance difference?
• Anything else I should consider?

Thanks in advance for the help. I'm stuck between getting the board I can get now (wood) and getting the fancier, lighter board later when i can find it.

Anyone know if Gorilla brand hot glue sticks are good for gluing handles and blades to paddle shafts? I used my last trusty yellow hot glue stick. The local stores had generic clear sticks or these opaque white Gorilla sticks which have vague boasts like "100% Tough".

Thanks, Luc, that looks like a good solution. I'll give it a shot.

How necessary is a board bag for long trips on the freeway (75mph)? I figured it would protect the board from projectile gravel and the sun, but the combo I have is an awful PIA so now I'm wondering...how much damage would I risk by never putting it in a board bag?

Details: I have a SIC RSx23" and the matching board bag, which doubles as a bag for the SIC Bullet. The Bullet, which is more consistently chunky, is a good fit. The bag fits the high-volume nose of the RS, but then gets flappy where the board flattens out. Some trips have been fine, but yesterday, in higher winds and 300+ miles, I must have stopped a half dozen times trying to stop the thwapping. Tried nose first, tail first, quadruple checked the straps, tried tying extra straps around the bag at looser places to give it a better fit. Ultimately, driving at speed, it seemed like the bag was too big a temptation for the wind. I took off the bag and everything was fine. Less movement, no sound.

Surely some of you have solved this. Is it better to ditch the bag? Or is it worth getting crafty to produce a better fit? I thought about strapping a series of bungies around the bag next time...but what a goofy hassle.

This took me a stupid long time to figure out, but works great on my Toyota.

1. Take the metal key out the fob. Stash the fob in the car.
2. Lock every door except the driver's. Close the doors. No alarm.
3. Use the metal key to manually lock the driver's door. Still no alarm.

Using the "lock all" button on the fob or the door triggers the alarm, but the mechanical key doesn't.

The repair went well:  I had to sand a larger hole to get to good material, then epoxied one layer of 1/8" Divinycell and let it sit under pressure for a couple days. Good fit. Finished it with one layer of 5oz carbon topped with 6oz fiberglass, both wetted first on a table. The bubble roller turned out to be one of those magical little tools—perfectly suited for its job and nothing else. The repair won't win any beauty contests, but seems strong and watertight, and it can hide beneath the replacement deck pad.

Fun fact: X-acto knives get dulled really easily with these materials. I must have gone through 10 blades cutting fiberglass, carbon, and deck pad shapes. They're cheap.

The CF, Divinycell, and bubble roller set together were less than $100, with plenty left over for future repairs. New skill and I'm back on the water. Thanks for the help!

Clear plastic over the hole to test for moisture...brilliant.

Thanks for all the tips and links. I have some carbon fiber and PVC on the way from Soller. When they and the bubble roller arrive, I'll give it a shot and post some photos.

The BoardLady makes these repairs look...not simple, exactly, but at least straightforward.

The Larry Allison dolphin keel is massive and stable, without as large of a base as you'd expect. It might fit your board.

Yep, I'm happy to embrace the DIY mindset. Thank you for the tips and links. A few hundred $$ is reasonable and it makes sense to match the original materials. While I don't stand in this area, I do tend to step there on my way back to the tail.

The divinycell is still delaminated around half the hole I cut. Half is attached to the foam beneath, half clearly detached...so it'll need to grow some more. Does this sound like a workable game plan?

1. Sand around the hole until all the delaminated material is gone. Sand the perimeter of the opening so that it's feathered from carbon down to foam. I'll try the random orbital sander this time instead of the dremel.

2. Cut divinycell to fit the hole. Squeegee epoxy into the foam and onto the divinycell. Marry the two together and clamp or weight on a falling thermometer.

3. Cut a piece of CF an inch bigger than the hole in every direction. Follow PB's description to paint the area with epoxy, pre-wet the CF with a bubble roller, and apply. Use something like this 5.7oz cloth from ebay?  https://tinyurl.com/y64tn468. For epoxy I have West System 105/205.

4. After CF has cured, sand lightly and do the same thing with a layer or two of fiberglass cut a bit smaller than the CF. Sand, apply deck pad, enjoy cold beverage.

How do I know the foam inside is dry this time?