Standup Zone Forum
Stand Up Paddle => Sessions => Topic started by: headmount on November 04, 2010, 06:21:08 PM
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The word from people I know that live in Wailuku was that they could see the trail of the twenty foot wave that Jeremy caught with a SUP on the biggest day (Nov 2nd) out at Pier One. He's the man in my book. He balances work, family and then paddles out and rides the biggest wave ever ridden on a SUP. Unreal. Everyone else, like me, was inside the harbor getting waist high mush. Pier one at that size is as heavy a wave as exists on the planet. Longer and hollower than Jaws. Yesterday was still good size but much smaller and the last of the good conditions. Today the monsoon has arrived on Maui.
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I heard about this but didn't know who it was. Jeremy charges for sure! Like you I was also at the harbor and almost paddled out just to watch close up. If I had a 10'6 gun I might have even considered dropping in on some of the smaller ones. R Naish, Kai Lenny and D Kalama went to uppers that day and said faces were around 18ft. Pier 1 was by far one of the heaviest spots due to the swell angle. Even the tow teams were holding back on some of the sets. I hope someone got a pic of Jeremey. I would love to know what board he was on. Definately hats off to him.
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Yes, please posts some picks if anyone has got em.
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A whole different level....
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Jeremy charged.. Saw him rite after and he was still glowing, and in a hurry because he was late for work....He was riding a new 9'0'' x 26.25'' x 3.75'' board that I had just made him. Not only was he under gunned but this was the first real time he rode it.. Should have been on at least his 10' board.....
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Bill,
Amazing ... if he were doing laydown... it would have probably been on a longer board... with SUP, there are so many variables... that to charge bigger stuff, you don't necessarily need an elephant gun... you can change other variables...
What is your take on this idea? Sorry for the thread hijack...
Tim
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Thanks for the compliments everyone. The following story will live in me forever....
I headed down for dawn patrol on Tuesday morning and the swell had definitely arrived. I couldn't tell exactly how big it was from shore, but I was pressed for time so I just paddled out. It wasn't until I paddled out that I realized how big it really was. I sat in the channel to observe for a while and saw some familiar faces towing in on some bombs. It was big, but looked manageable to me. I paddled out to the peak and let a couple sets pass. I could see another set on the horizon and decided it was now or never. I did have to go to work at some point this morning. I could see a wave coming my way with my name all over it. I turned and paddled like crazy and started to make the drop. The drop seemed to go on forever and when I finally made it halfway I realized I wasn't going to make it to the bottom. I started going down the line while it was sucking up underneath me. It was time to get going and I didn't have a lot of speed. The wave slowly caught up to me and barreled over me. At this moment I thought I was going to get creamed, but in an instant the wave began to slow down. It was then I realized I might actually make it out of this barrel. I couldn't believe this wave was this hollow. I came out of the barrel and immediately thanked the Lord for being so gracious to me. I caught two more bombs and it was time to head into work.
It was a bittersweet day, however. Not long after this ride of my life I found out about the death of Andy. I couldn't help thinking that he was somehow out there with me, putting me in the perfect spot to catch that perfect wave.
Thanks to Bill Foote for making me some great boards, Jimmy Terrell from Quickblade for the best paddles out there, and the Naish Team for their support.
Aloha,
Jeremy
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Thats awesome Jeremy. Moments like that, time slows your awareness expands, make this sport what it is. Thanks for sharing that. I only wish I could have been there to watch.
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Jeremy, you have all my respect.
Actually you always had it from the very first time I met you at the very beginning of SUP surfing... just love your humble attitude.
See you out there! (maybe not at Pier one!.. I'm too old for that!!)
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Awesome..
DJ
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Much respect Jeremy. Just for charging out there in those conditions on a brand new board you hadn't even ridden before. The fact that you rode it the way you did, is the icing on the cake.
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Great story Jeremy,
It's nice to be able to enjoy that from the comfort of an easy chair. :o
Time to update your avatar with a bigger wave!
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Goosebumps!
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Thanks for sharing, Jeremy...
What's so cool about this is he didn't do it for the cameras...the vast majority of hellmen these days would have made sure that it was documented...some wouldn't have attempted it unless they knew there was a camera...
Pics are cool...but, just talking story is cool , too...;-)
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I checked Pier One that morning and couldn't even see where the outside waves were breaking cuz the ones in front blocked the view. I had my camera but even if I knew someone was out there, I don't know what I woulda done. There was no safe 50 yd line seats to shoot from. No safety anywhere. Looked like chaos to me. Huge chaos. Buzz and Arch saw Jeremy out there as they drove their ski up to outer Sprecks. They yanked into a few bombs and came close to losing their ski a few times. Buzz and I went for a Maliko run yesterday and he told me Arch picked him up after a go down and gunned it with the next whitewater nipping at his heels as he hung on the sled. You better feel like you have a Rolls Royce 16 cylinder engine, like Jeremy, if you want that stuff.
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I suspect anyone who hasn't seen what Pier One can be like doesn't quite get all the "we are not worthy" praise. Pier One scares the crap out of me on a moderate day. Last time I was out there surfing it was considered really good--there were several other SUP guys out there. I spent all my time running for the horizon trying to keep from getting smashed. If you screw up really bad and get caught inside, you are in big trouble. A mountainous breakwall in front of you with huge surf pounding right on it and smashing over it. Outer reef waves behind you coming at full power, pitching up on a slanted floor and tossing twenty foot, very fast moving faces
Finally took one baby wave and fled for the harbor mouth. When I got near the breakwall a guy flagged me down, waving his paddle. His leash had broken and he had to climb up the breakwall. Yikes! If you've been there you know how much that would suck--and maybe not work, with potentially fatal consequences. Hard to believe he still had his paddle. He tossed it on top of the breakwall when a wave pitched him high enough!!! Then he somehow got a grip on the huge artificial rocks and got to the top. I went out and looked for his board--finally found it way out. Further than I wanted to go, but what the heck. Gotta. A Naish prototype he had bought from Dave K. No leash to drag it with so I stuck it backwards on top of my board and paddled them both through the mouth. Caught a wave going through the mouth and managed to stay up. I was VERY glad to be out of there.
What an unforgiving place to have a problem--or just to fall on a wave. I've always known Jeremy is an alien, this just confirms it.
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I have ridden consistant double to triple overhead at this place many times. I have also taken my share of poundings from big Pier 1. Normally there is a nice shoulder and channel which makes the place pretty safe. However, on the day Jeremy was out things were much different. Due to the direction of the swell, Pier 1 was bigger than Peahi (Jaws) and the channel was no longer a safe zone. Waves there had to be 15 to 20ft Hawaiian meaning 30 to 40ft faces. The thought that anyone would even consider it on SUP is freaking insane!! The fact that Jeremy actually managed to ride this break on that day on a 9' SUP is beyond comprehension. This would probably be considered one of the largest waves ever ridden on a SUP board. BIG WAVE SUP AWARD GOES TO JEREMY RIGGS in my book.
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I kitesurf pier 1 on a regular basis. I ride it as big as it gets. I wouldn't even think of taking my sup out there when it's big. :o I haven't gotten as comfortable on my sup yet. Awesome wave, but not very forgiving. Props to those who are taking sup to that level.
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A couple of shots of Jeremy's new 9 Foote. Baby looks fast:
(http://www.standupzone.com/Capture.JPG)
(http://www.standupzone.com/Capture1.JPG)
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Looks like da Gecko, only shorter.
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Billy makes pretty boards, eh.
(http://www.kenalu.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/fivefeet.jpg)
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nice lineup, Bill
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Yeah.. Nice boards there Bill... I like the Croc's to.. ;)
DJ
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Bill does this mean you've migrated back here?