Standup Zone Forum
Stand Up Paddle => Sessions => Topic started by: surfinJ on October 07, 2019, 11:42:01 PM
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So after a few clean and uncrowded days at this spot the core of the swell hit as well as 20-30 hungry ones with guns. Bumpy and busy would describe it. The first significant waves of the winter season had me anxious but it was the crowd that put me off my game. So instead of the big wave board and entering the pack, I opted for the performance longboard and would play the fringes.
My custom Sunova Surf is the ticket to calm the nerves. Mobility and stability.
Paddlesurfhawaii quads L, 12’ long, thick and hand tied leash from StayCovered. And a kite surf vest with an inner belt to keep it from getting pulled over my head in a wipeout.
When I first paddled out I tried under the pack but after taking a bomb set on the head, testing my kit, I retreated to the inside peak. And got lucky with a photog.
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Sorry due to zone tech probs will continue with more photos later.
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Sorry due to zone tech probs will continue with more photos later.
Hi,
Your images above are 3000 x 2000. If you downsize them to 1000 or so for the largest dimension they will upload.
Thanks
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Cool, thanks for the support.
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That looks fun! Where are you?
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At home in France. The outside break where the QuikPro is now running.
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Nice waves! Great surfing 8)
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The swell has arrived!
Some nice size there J.... great to finally see some pics of you from the beach, they are awesome :)
Enjoy the contest bustle, that's a great venue for Pro events!
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Ripping it J! Great pictures. Some good size too. I'd be thinking about wearing my impact vest in those conditions. I keep one in my car, but I've only worn it a few times. With outside breaks that are well OH, it's a smart move. 8)
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Great pics J!
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Thanks for all the kind words. Like most surfers I have almost never seen pics of myself. Most of our family and friends are not photogs and quickly lose sight of if they do try. Need big lenses and time. I got lucky with this guy.
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Nice sup surfin, SJ. Cool you found your "Place" in our oceanic enviro.
SC 8)
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Yep very nice action shots but I also like the one with you facing off against and what looks like DOH foam...
Man vs. Nature!
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J - Great Stuff.
I would never have known that France had waves like that if not for your posts.
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There is actually an interesting fact about the coastline here. Leading right up to this spot is a very deep sea canyon. So solid North Atlantic swell pulse gets funneled in deep water right up to the sandbar. The canyon was cut by the outflow of the river Adour up until Napoléon moved the rivermouth south to Bayonne.
This similar setup exists at Nazaré in Portugal.
First diagram is Capbreton/Hossegor and the second is Nazaré.
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also liked the impending foam wall
and very interesting re under-ocean river-canyons
and, yeah, you're a charger!
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nice job it looked a little lumpy and bumpy out there that throws me off my game.
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What fins in a board that size ?