Standup Zone Forum
Stand Up Paddle => Share the Stoke => Topic started by: Beasho on May 13, 2019, 06:46:42 AM
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Here was a great wave caught by my daughter Ruby (age 16) this winter.
I had been calling her into some bigger stuff and she officially charges. Watch her freak out and then make the drop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62gVGlyqXfs
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A few more waves going right:
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A few more shots
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And when conditions are NOT good. Skills training.
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How awesome is that 8) Ruby Rocks!
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awesome, beasho
for the both of you!
enjoy it while it lasts--she may dump you and move to maui before you know it!
Maui State?
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You've got a pretty amazing kid there.
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She's going fly by you faster than you go. At that moment you'll feel both very proud and very old at the same time. Proud out weighs feeling old 8)
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ha ha Beasho.... so cool to see Ruby going big!
She's a smart young lady, really sweet .... with some serious nads!
I was just watching the vid of You, Ruby and I on a good swell riding the board she won at the race raffle.
You could see in that video that she was going to be a charger!
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We are out at this spot, Rocky's cove, this winter. It was 10 to 12 feet. I was on the foil and much, much wider. It was probably too big for the foil.
A wave comes and she is clearly (too) deep. I yell "Go, Go, Go!" She drops out of sight behind the on-coming wave.
I see the carnage and when she paddles back out I ask:
"Did you go for it?"
She says "Yeah - I had no other choice!"
She didn't jump off and take it on the head. She went for it - Good Girl 8)
Another shot:
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And learning to cut-back:
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This is awesome. I have a 16, 13 and 11 year old daughters and they all love to surf but none of them will try to SUP surf at all. I am going to show them Ruby charging this heavy wave.
We will be in Maui next week so I hope I can get them to try a few SUP waves.
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East Coast. Weekend and no-one out! Amazing.
Here was Ruby's friend Emma learning to catch a wave:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R1ZQlxzlrY
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.
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Hopefully you also taught her the proper respect in the lineup and other surf etiquette.
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Good for Emma.... was that her first wave surfing on any board?
I still remember my first wave.... what a life it has led me though! So thankful!
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Great thread, Beasho!
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Hopefully you also taught her the proper respect in the lineup and other surf etiquette.
This is tough to do when no one shows up in the lineup.
Have you noticed that there aren't any people in any of these clips ???
Just "Show up and Be Kind". The good news is that 90% of surfing is just showing up. Here is a tribute to Malcolm Feix.
He passed away last year, age 20, while surfing in Half Moon Bay he had a seizure.
https://www.hmbreview.com/news/coastside-remembers-surfer-lifeguard-kind-young-man/article_31b742ce-a0b2-11e8-847d-8f606420730a.html
https://vimeo.com/284629272
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Ruby Summers.
Heart of New England. Saturday morning. No one out.
Show Up and be kind!
https://youtu.be/7VxbRbTMU3o
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There were two little Sup Surf Groms out this morning at SanO. They were both killing it. Maybe 7 or 8 years old. I got there at 7:30 and they were already out there. I left about 11:30, and they were still out there charging it:)
Both of the kids dads were foiling, so I'm sure that's next.
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That clip of Ruby, milking a no wave is perfect!
I always tell newbies to ride tiny waves as far as they can.
Tiny gutless wave require perfect trim to keep moving.... that knowledge is crucial to surfing at all levels!
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That clip of Ruby, milking a no wave is perfect!
Just like Milking a NO-Wave on a Foil . . . . . . . . while singing.
It's Ruby's 17th Birthday.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9h4RhTgs9VI
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ha ha!
When my kid's were little, I used my singing as a form of punishment.....
if they argued or something, out in public..... I would start singing oldies.
"STOP Dad .... we'll behave! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Happy Birthday Ruby! You're a big kid now.
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Mavericks started to light up this week.
My girls were home from school and we did a run by the Mavericks parking lot. It was building in the morning with most people surfing the cove @ 10 to 15 feet.
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Tide dropped and the swell came up so we paddled out towards Mavericks.
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We stopped at Mushroom Rock but things were marginalized by the size.
So we paddled out for a front row view at Mavericks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Kwev5_myog
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It is much more impressive and scary in person.
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I know the Gopro makes them look like they are 200 yards away, but it's actually only about 100'. Sitting on that shoulder with two-story high waves is a great confidence builder. Ruby has her dad's adventure spirit for sure. Proud dad 8)
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The forecast is picking up. Meaning 10 feet, then 15 feet, then 25 feet then . . . I am trying to get Ruby back into Big-Wave shape. She got soft in the woods of Northern Massachusetts for the last 4 months.
She actually gave me a little stink-eye for being on her wave in this clip.
Jeff Clark was flying around us on the Wing in the Background. Ruby said "Dad he is pretty good!" Lovely :o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OF9qtu3znkA
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As the camera guy I have to sit deep. I was hoping she would go left.
Then I take it in the teeth.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0MShfPjHzk
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East Coast. Weekend and no-one out! Amazing.
Here was Ruby's friend Emma learning to catch a wave:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R1ZQlxzlrY
This story just got richer. 2 years after her first wave Emma graduated from high school. She had a rough year amongst Covid and home life so in short. . . . . we adopted her.
Emma is now taking a Gap year, got a job, is reapplying to college and I am teaching her to surf. Here is the opener to the college essay:
“In the movie, Chasing Mavericks, the young Jay Moriarty aspires to surf the largest waves in the world. He trains under local legend Frosty. I have created my own version of Chasing Mavericks having moved in with the Chase family taking a gap year just 2 miles from the famous break.
I have been learning to surf from my adopted host father. He has taught me that big wave surfing requires three foundational pillars: proper positioning, wave selection and perfect paddle stroke. Similar to life this combination of intelligence, initiative and grit are required to achieving goals. Everybody wants to be seen taking the 50 foot drop but few talk about the preparation and training to get there.”
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Emma has fewer than 20 (TWENTY) total surfing sessions. Her progress has been fast. Ruby, my daughter, was the author of this script.
Ruby said "mom and dad you need to hear what is going on with Emma . . . " 1 week later Emma was on a plane to California from upstate NY. 3 weeks later and Ruby left on her own Gap year, a customized version a walkabout in the Indian Ocean. BUT before Ruby left we went surfing at Mushroom rock. This was Emma's 5th time ever surfing.
Ruby is on the Red board Emma on the Blue. You'll hear Emma say "I almost got it!"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GLXD1iTFZk
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Session 10:
By this time Ruby had left the country. I had articulated that surfing requires 4 primary skills (2 more come later).
1) Positioning on the Reef - Know where you watching the boils and by triangulating with near and distant objects on land
2) Wave Selection - Count the waves in the sets watch where the energy is concentrated and look for lines rather than peaks
3) Paddle Stroke - You need to go FAST never assume the wave will just take you and ALWAYS give 2 extra strokes just in case
4) The Drop - This is the reward for getting the 1st 3 things right
Haley Fiske is master of #1 at Mavericks. Jeff Clark a savant at #2 and Kelly Slater has been touted as one of the best paddlers ever #3. The drop comes easy after you master the first 3.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92H1Mx6FtB8
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Session 15:
I have introduced Emma to the local crew. Jeff Clark, Haley Fiske, Josh, Morgan, Mose, Peter, Ion, Mark Alfaro and Kristi the Kayaker among others.
Kristi will text us when she is going to surf. Kristi pinged us this week on a day I had to work. I suggested that Emma should meet her at Mushroom. It was a sizeable day, 8 feet @ 13 seconds, clean with NO wind. Emma flinched and I said
"Today you have to go surf. The conditions are nearly perfect. I can not go with you all the time. Kristi knows what she is doing and you can learn from her. You need to practice. You don't get to just play soccer on game day. You need to go out and get bounced around, perfect your stroke, watch learn from other people."
Emma got on her surf bike and met Kristi at Mushroom. Emma reported that it was beautiful a perfect 10 / 10 day on the water. Here was a video shot by Bryan. Successfully dropping in overhead waves.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saNf2-VmGN0
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Session 20
This week has been BOOMING! The buoys topped out 30 feet @ 18 seconds Monday morning. And the buoys are never legitimately bigger than 20 feet. But things change quickly. The video above was from Wednesday, just 2 days later.
The size had been dropping. I had a quick window in the morning but then the Buoys jumped back up 15 feet @ 17 seconds.
"Emma put on 2 vests and lets go check out Mavericks."
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Love it.
I recently had a session where my equipment felt dialed in and all thanks pointed to "Beasho".
Beasho Inspired Gear choices:
-Oneil Gooru Impact Vest
-Supreme wetsuit
-Beasho designed Board Carrying Strap
-11'6" Jeff Clark SUP
-Body Glove PFD.
Thank you for all do. You are my hero.
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Session 20
"Emma put on 2 vests and lets go check out Mavericks."
We got out with dry hair and were first to the Peak. Then we were deeper than the pack, because the pack was 5 guys that were first timers and didn't know what they were doing.
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Haley paddled out and started to conduct a big wave clinic.
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And the verbal report: "The First Dry Hair Mavericks Experience"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XCj9Qf5C48
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For the record Haley caught the longest, fastest wave in the world that morning. Twice.
700+ yards @ 29 mph under his own power. From the bowl past Mushroom Rock!
That is some sizzling bacon.