Standup Zone Forum
Stand Up Paddle => Gear Talk => Topic started by: toolate on May 05, 2019, 01:22:24 PM
-
Got reacquainted with some old coral heads from my youth this morning. Dinged the bottom of my JL Stungun Carbon Edition.
The size of this ding is about half penny. The material in the center appears to be carbon. So it looks like i took of the gel coat. No water leaking.
Thoughts on best DIY repairs? Was thinking Epoxy resin with some pigment ...
-
Sticker ::)
-
Clean out the foam sandwich with a little sand paper. Gorilla it with just a mist of water and let it expand. Once dry, shave it down flush and sand the surrounding surface down to glass leaving about 1/2" margin. Couple pieces of glass cloth epoxied down. Sand smooth. Then a thin finish epoxy coat (hot coat). Sand again smooth and do your best faux finish with some grey and black paint brushed. Then spray a rattler can flat or semi clear.
-
There are a few boards with gel coat, but this ain't one of them. Boards made in a mold may use a gel coat finish, but not anything laid up over a blank. Talldudes suggestions are right on if you want the board to like like it did before you bonked it. Don't even think about just resin or something like Solarez. You'll eventually get water in the board.
After several recent bad experiences with hotcoat (after many years of zero problems) I've taken to using aluminum tape as my hotcoat. Looks like shit, but it doesn't leak and it weighs nothing. I do the fiberglass repair, but then finsh with a layer of aluminum tape. I don't really recommend as some kind of great practice but it works well.
-
Clean out the foam sandwich with a little sand paper. Gorilla it with just a mist of water and let it expand. Once dry, shave it down flush and sand the surrounding surface down to glass leaving about 1/2" margin. Couple pieces of glass cloth epoxied down. Sand smooth. Then a thin finish epoxy coat (hot coat). Sand again smooth and do your best faux finish with some grey and black paint brushed. Then spray a rattler can flat or semi clear.
Thanks for the detailed repair advice! So what I am seeing there is foam sandwich with carbon underneath? I realize the photo doest show it but the depth is like 1/16 max....
-
Sticker ::)
A sticker would get me in the water fastest...
-
Clean out the foam sandwich with a little sand paper. Gorilla it with just a mist of water and let it expand. Once dry, shave it down flush and sand the surrounding surface down to glass leaving about 1/2" margin. Couple pieces of glass cloth epoxied down. Sand smooth. Then a thin finish epoxy coat (hot coat). Sand again smooth and do your best faux finish with some grey and black paint brushed. Then spray a rattler can flat or semi clear.
Thanks for the detailed repair advice! So what I am seeing there is foam sandwich with carbon underneath? I realize the photo doest show it but the depth is like 1/16 max....
That's what it looks like to me.
-
It looks like the ding goes through the outer carbon layer and through the 1'8" ultra high density foam layer to the inner carbon layer below that. The foam may be thinner than 1/8" in some spots.
Here is what you're looking at. Just insert carbon where it says fiberglass.
http://jimmylewis.com/board-construction/
-
Unless you have some decent repair skills already, I’d take this to a professional. By the time you’ve bought the various stuff needed to do a good repair, and ended up with an ugly testament to your ineptitude anyway, despite hours of faffing about, you’ll wish you’d just flashed the cash and let it be someone else’s problem. A good pro dung fixer will get that looking so good no-one will know it ever happened.
-
if youve got a good repair guy nearby and you're unlikely to enjoy the craft of repair, go with a pro
i enjoy repair, so long as i have time and space and the right stuff---resin research resin, microballoons, good quality glass cloth, a little 30$ black and decker "mouse sander" with appropriate sandpapers, gloves, mask, shot glass size plastic cups, wood stirring/application sticks, blue tape, reasonably color-matching spray paint
what'd i forget??
the good news is that, if you arent really careless (with the sander especially) you can erase poor work and start over, without dealing any permanent damage to the board
i enjoy the process---but big incentive is that there are no ding repair guys anywhere near my house in bklyn---easier to just do myself than do a bunch of round trips to a shop an hour or more's drive away--if i just do it myself it's faster, and ive gotten pretty good
finbox issues i wont touch--need a good alignment jig and skills
-
It looks like the ding goes through the outer carbon layer and through the 1'8" ultra high density foam layer to the inner carbon layer below that. The foam may be thinner than 1/8" in some spots.
Here is what you're looking at. Just insert carbon where it says fiberglass.
http://jimmylewis.com/board-construction/
Thanks! Thing is, i should see a layer of carbon or at least some carbon threads and i dont except at the bottom which appears to be the outer sandwich. And it seems there is no way that the "foam" in that picture is 1/8 thick.
So maybe i just took of the paint?
-
That looks like more than "just paint" to me. Maybe you should take it to a professional repair person???
-
It looks like the ding goes through the outer carbon layer and through the 1'8" ultra high density foam layer to the inner carbon layer below that. The foam may be thinner than 1/8" in some spots.
Here is what you're looking at. Just insert carbon where it says fiberglass.
http://jimmylewis.com/board-construction/
Thanks! Thing is, i should see a layer of carbon or at least some carbon threads and i dont except at the bottom which appears to be the outer sandwich. And it seems there is no way that the "foam" in that picture is 1/8 thick.
So maybe i just took of the paint?
If you see foam, you went through all the glass & carbon. Since it's so small, you might not see any individual carbon threads, but the gray in the foam is probably carbon dust. I have lots of ding guys around me--and I do all repairs myself. Not that hard just to do as TD says. Or, get a good sticker/puka patch and go paddle. I usually cover most of my small dings with stickers until I have a few things I need to fix and then get them all done at once.
-
what is everyones fav sticker /patch
-
It looks like the ding goes through the outer carbon layer and through the 1'8" ultra high density foam layer to the inner carbon layer below that. The foam may be thinner than 1/8" in some spots.
Here is what you're looking at. Just insert carbon where it says fiberglass.
http://jimmylewis.com/board-construction/
Thanks! Thing is, i should see a layer of carbon or at least some carbon threads and i dont except at the bottom which appears to be the outer sandwich. And it seems there is no way that the "foam" in that picture is 1/8 thick.
So maybe i just took of the paint?
If you see foam, you went through all the glass & carbon. Since it's so small, you might not see any individual carbon threads, but the gray in the foam is probably carbon dust. I have lots of ding guys around me--and I do all repairs myself. Not that hard just to do as TD says. Or, get a good sticker/puka patch and go paddle. I usually cover most of my small dings with stickers until I have a few things I need to fix and then get them all done at once.
well that is just it. i dont really know i do see foam. Seems to me if i went through carbon and foam i should see some water. Or be able to suck some air or water out with my mouth which i cant.
Or at least I dont think i can because that test never really works for me somehow....
-
It looks like the ding goes through the outer carbon layer and through the 1'8" ultra high density foam layer to the inner carbon layer below that. The foam may be thinner than 1/8" in some spots.
Here is what you're looking at. Just insert carbon where it says fiberglass.
http://jimmylewis.com/board-construction/
Thanks! Thing is, i should see a layer of carbon or at least some carbon threads and i dont except at the bottom which appears to be the outer sandwich. And it seems there is no way that the "foam" in that picture is 1/8 thick.
So maybe i just took of the paint?
If you see foam, you went through all the glass & carbon. Since it's so small, you might not see any individual carbon threads, but the gray in the foam is probably carbon dust. I have lots of ding guys around me--and I do all repairs myself. Not that hard just to do as TD says. Or, get a good sticker/puka patch and go paddle. I usually cover most of my small dings with stickers until I have a few things I need to fix and then get them all done at once.
Or be able to suck some air or water out with my mouth which i cant.
Or at least I dont think i can because that test never really works for me somehow....
I have never considered sucking saltwater and fiberglass out of any board ::) I don't think you went all the way through the lower layer of the glass sandwich, so maybe there has been no real water intrusion issue (if it's only through the top of a sandwich construction layer).
-
I'm pretty sure the thin outer high density foam layer is closed cell and will not hold water.
I would probably just fill it with a mixture of epoxy and fairing filler and sand it smooth.
If I was really worried about it, I would send some pics to Jimmy and see what he says.
.
-
foil (metal) duct tape works very well for temporary repair
-
I keep a role of Helicopter tape in my truck. No need to stop surfing if the board gets cracked or punctured.
-
Foil is great because the adhesive is so aggressive, the only drawback is it does not offer much penetration protection. So for anything larger than a crack, helicopter tape or a sticker works well. I keep a stash of vinyl stickers on hand for temporary repairs.
-
what is everyones fav sticker /patch
Puka Patch https://pukapatch.com/
From the video on the home page, it looks like Jimmy would approve. I get the XLs, stick a razor blade in the pack and keep it in my truck. I can cut to whatever size I need.
-
So what do you think this is? On the rail of my Glide. The bottom is gray, the rail yellow. I am tempted to scrape a little at the bottom of the chip (that's a pretty good close up; it's under 1/2") to prove what looks obvious - the gray continues up the rail and the yellow is just paint on top of it. There is a another smaller (*tiny* - again a close up) scrape where gray shows. The picture of it isn't as good but the gray in the scrape matches the bottom exactly and it is further away from the edges. Still plan to seal the chip, but it looks like trim paint.
-
Sand again smooth and do your best faux finish with some grey and black paint brushed. Then spray a rattler can flat or semi clear.
I don't even bother to paint them anymore... :-)
-
So what do you think this is? On the rail of my Glide. The bottom is gray, the rail yellow. I am tempted to scrape a little at the bottom of the chip (that's a pretty good close up; it's under 1/2") to prove what looks obvious - the gray continues up the rail and the yellow is just paint on top of it. There is a another smaller (*tiny* - again a close up) scrape where gray shows. The picture of it isn't as good but the gray in the scrape matches the bottom exactly and it is further away from the edges. Still plan to seal the chip, but it looks like trim paint.
I have a board with lots of paint chips like that. I was told they have to be filled in first before repainting.
-
So what do you think this is? On the rail of my Glide. The bottom is gray, the rail yellow. I am tempted to scrape a little at the bottom of the chip (that's a pretty good close up; it's under 1/2") to prove what looks obvious - the gray continues up the rail and the yellow is just paint on top of it. There is a another smaller (*tiny* - again a close up) scrape where gray shows. The picture of it isn't as good but the gray in the scrape matches the bottom exactly and it is further away from the edges. Still plan to seal the chip, but it looks like trim paint.
I have a board with lots of paint chips like that. I was told they have to be filled in first before repainting.
Yeah, I would think it would need to be leveled for more paint. I am thinking of sealing just to keep it from chipping easily at the ragged edges. I am a little disappointed that Naish uses paint that chips so easily.
-
i appreciate everyones willingness to help out here! Thank you! I did send it to Marlon by the way and he said he couldnt really tell from the photo. I wish i could get a better image .
-
So what do you think this is? On the rail of my Glide. The bottom is gray, the rail yellow. I am tempted to scrape a little at the bottom of the chip (that's a pretty good close up; it's under 1/2") to prove what looks obvious - the gray continues up the rail and the yellow is just paint on top of it. There is a another smaller (*tiny* - again a close up) scrape where gray shows. The picture of it isn't as good but the gray in the scrape matches the bottom exactly and it is further away from the edges. Still plan to seal the chip, but it looks like trim paint.
I have a board with lots of paint chips like that. I was told they have to be filled in first before repainting.
Yeah, I would think it would need to be leveled for more paint. I am thinking of sealing just to keep it from chipping easily at the ragged edges. I am a little disappointed that Naish uses paint that chips so easily.
I used to get pretty bummed out about chips and scratches but now I kind of like the battle ax look. I've got an old glide that I'll never sell because it's such an easy board--great to loan to beginners and pretty well made. Sure, there are paint chips but if it's just a chip I don't bother fixing them--what's more important is that the structure underneath is intact. Kind of like Oki, I don't bother matching paint anymore--unless it's black or white--I usually top my repairs with a quick hit of epoxy appliance spray paint. That way I can see clearly if something starts to bubble.