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Stand Up Paddle => Sessions => Topic started by: stoneaxe on September 30, 2018, 03:51:12 PM

Title: Pace Yourself
Post by: stoneaxe on September 30, 2018, 03:51:12 PM
That's what I've been saying to myself Sat and Sun.

Great day Sat. except for some dumb forgetfulness and a real stupid rookie mistake that could have cost me...got lucky.

I got a later start Sat than I originally wanted but when I pulled into Nantasket 1st thing I saw was a long head high peeling right....:). Warm, sunny, smooth glass....get the board untied and pull out my leash....where the %$#@ is my leash...OH yeah in the bag on the garage floor with the fins I want to put in.....:( Quick trip to the surf shop for a leash...almost bought fins too but pretty sure the boss would filet me considering I have a bag full so I resisted.

Got back, unfortunately now high tide was 1/2 hour away...big rebound coming off the seawall, waves washing up the stairs. I watched it for awhile and thought I saw a very fun way to get on the water. I waited for a good one to wash up the stairs and jumped in from there...1st time ever doing that...rode the backwash and jumped up on the fly and met the next one coming in and got absolutely launched up and over...full on airborne on the backside and I fucking landed it! I love getting over waves and work at it often. I knew going in I was going to need the paddle coming down and I timed the down stroke perfectly. I was already moving forward as I compressed to take the landing and I was still on the backwash. The last one was the start of the lull and I just about shot out into the lineup. Thinks were looking fortuitous.....:) Not too bad considering my head is feeling a bit light.

Only a couple of SUPs and shortboarders out, crowds down further but open there. I was watching for a bit and wave choice was going to be critical. Lot's of closeouts just dumping but some were coming in with a bit more angle and those were sweet. Caught a few smaller waves inside to get my sea legs then paddled out. I backed off of a couple of big waves that I didn't like and I must have looked like a tentative noob because I was given some advice to get forward a bit...:) Told him I appreciated it but told him I was just looking for a good one. We started talking and he mentioned he has some issues from a brain tumor....say what?......I started to laugh and I think at 1st he was thinking what a dick and I said me too.....another 1st. He was pretty good, caught some nice waves while I was watching. I saw a big set coming and paddled out. Glassy, slightly overhead, awesome clean drop that feeling of your stomach coming up, compress hard in the bottom, looking down the line and up off the lip and drop again screaming like a kid...do it again.....:)

Bunch a fun rides but it was getting too high and close to the wall so I rode one in near the ramp. Here's where the rookie mistake comes in. I maneuver to the ramp, timing my exit...18" drop washed out at the base of the concrete ramp...I get up on it grab the tail and I'm golden...being careful not to scrape the nose I turn and try and pull it up over the small wave coming in...catches the nose, pivots the board across my ankles. I knew instantly I was going down...tuck roll over the board and onto the ramp..board washes off the ramp onto the rocks. I managed to get it quickly and got the hell off the ramp. Bruised, scraped and bleeding a bit but no major damage to me or the board.

Took a break for a couple hours and then went back out further down the beach....

More later about a fun weekend ,,,boss wants my help with some stuff. Looks like a week of surf coming up....gotta both pace myself and make sure she's happy so my pass is good.
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: jpeter on September 30, 2018, 04:04:39 PM
I was considering a drive your way given the 1-2ft forecast for RI.   But the Block Island buoy was reading good so RI it was this AM.    Turned out to be a good choice,  waves were nice.  Did first light to noonish.   Shot a few after two surf sessions.   One guy was just ripping on the sup.

https://www.facebook.com/309423325742844/photos/pcb.2100520989966393/2100516639966828/?type=3&theater
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: stoneaxe on September 30, 2018, 10:28:15 PM
Ooooh...that was Sunday?

I had a small window this morning and went back to Nantasket.....not as good as the forecast...or even as the cam showed before I left. Strangely bumpy there today and a bit smaller...very mushy. I left after a 1.5 hour session. There were some big sets coming as I left of course. Best part of today was giving up a rare nice wave to a tow headed grom surfing with his Dad. It was head high for me, double overhead to him, I turned to go and saw him looking at it and watching me....told him to go and he started paddling like mad, kid was pretty good for 7 or 8..made a nice drop and disappeared, then he popped out 100 yards down the beach yelling "Dad, did you SEE that, did you SEE that?" When he paddled out I said nice wave and he thanked me for giving it up with a big shit eating grin on his face...:)

I'm hoping to get out to the Cape this week. Taking a break tomorrow from going hard. Tweaked my shoulder a bit, both are hurting but one is keeping me awake.

Second 1/2 of Saturday was fun, tide was dropping and I had moved down the beach....wave after wave....some very fun long rides. Not a lot of size, but clean waist-chest high sets were frequent. I grabbed a quick picture when I got back from getting my leash....tide was already getting on it but the bigger ones (this one ended up being mid sized or so) were still fun.

I had one good ride and a bunch of sloppy ones today there. There were the rare bigger sets still though. I caught the next to last in a set of 6 that cleared the way nicely and let this one peel. Long ride weaving through 1/2 dozen shortboarders but that was the only wave I got that was what I'd call good in 1.5 hours.
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: jpeter on October 01, 2018, 04:19:21 AM
Yes,  my shots were from Sunday.   I will have to pick a day this fall when there is more of an east swell to try something on the Boston south shore. Your pic is a beauty.  Yesterday was a day that gets additional points for how nice the weather was.   JP
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: stoneaxe on October 01, 2018, 08:29:38 AM
Nice pics...guy was ripping for sure.

I'm hoping to have a zoner fest in Plymouth out at Brown's Bank one of these days. I'm spending a lot more time there now obviously and I'm making note of what can work. It would be fun to paddle out with packs bringing lunch and beverages, drop the gear on the bar  and surf on the outside bars. Would have to be on call because it doesn't happen often but its magic when it does. Even small waves can be fun out there and bring rods too....bonito and stripers in the flats. Feels like fishing in the Keys or Bahamas.
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: jpeter on October 01, 2018, 09:46:09 AM
I have looked at Brown's bank more from a windsurf potential but never tried it.  Put out the word on the zoner fest,  sounds like a good spot for it.  Jay
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: supthecreek on October 01, 2018, 06:42:00 PM
Awesome stoneman.... I like all the surf stories you get to relate these days! Yea retirement  ;D

I'd be up for a Zonefest at the Bank. Just tell me when.

Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: stoneaxe on October 01, 2018, 10:55:44 PM
I want to get down the Cape too. The guys I was talking to were from the Cape....Hyannis...we talked sharks of course.....it's why they were there.
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: mrbig on October 09, 2018, 12:41:33 PM
We had a fun conversation after the day was winding down.

Did three short sessions riding my Infinity 9'6" New Deal.

Saw a big dude on a board covered with dots. BIGFOOTE!

Great to see you out there given everything.

Way more fun than the Zooport horror!
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: Bean on October 09, 2018, 12:59:04 PM
Hey Biggie, I want to hear more about the Infinity ND!  How you likee?
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: mrbig on October 09, 2018, 01:31:44 PM
Bean, I took delivery right after my shark encounter. Last August.

We then had weeks of overhead waves.

It is crazy light 16.2 pounds on a postal scale.
Can
I ride it when I want to go logging. As a performance long board it is a superior mousetrap. It is not spectacular as a noserider  cuz it doesn't want to stall and stay high on the wave. Recently changed the fin set up to a center 7 3D dimple with sides. Fade stall and walk around.

As a performance long board it is spectacular. Beeg waves mo bettah.

200 yards outside the can buoy at first only breaks on hurricane swells.

It is also so much fun when it's tiny.

I have the 9'6" x 31" x 139 liters. The 10 footers are awesome but too narrow for me.

Have owned a 10' King's Crocodile, a huge 10'6" Hobie, and a less huge Hobie 9'8".

I prefer this one as it is more versatile in a variety of conditions.

I suspect if I rode it more in small waves with the new fin setup, I could spend some time on the schnozz.

The production Infinity boards are sooo light, and bulletproof it's amazing.

BigDog likes it a whole lot!
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: Bean on October 09, 2018, 01:57:46 PM
Thanks Big Dog! 

Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: stoneaxe on October 09, 2018, 09:28:15 PM
That was fun Sunday...some great waves. Crowds were a bit much but still fun. I wish I could have stayed around longer but I had the kids coming over to help me move some bushes. Glad I got Sunday in, my head went south Sunday night and has been going in circles....can hardly walk nevermind paddle..... :P
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: eastbound on October 10, 2018, 03:29:25 AM
damn stones--sorry to hear you got slammed sunday--i was enjoying the ride til i heard that--im sure youve turned over every stone (haha) to seek a way to avoid the hits--seems random and shitty--keep the faith--when your head aint bad you get on the good stuff--best luck ongoing
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: Zooport on October 10, 2018, 05:22:30 AM
Stony, I apologize if this is none of my business, or if this has been discussed on other threads that I missed.  If either is the case, feel free to ignore this.  But you mention a tumor, is that causing your vertigo issues?  Just wanted to know so I could keep up thoughts and prayers for you. 

I have suffered from intermittent extreme vertigo as well.  Wake up in the morning thinking everything is fine and then the world begins spinning the moment I sit up.  Can't walk, have to hold on to something, along with motion sickness.  I tried SUP surfing once when I had a mild case of it and there was no way.  Not fun.
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: stoneaxe on October 10, 2018, 08:47:05 AM
No worries guys..please don't feel sorry for me. Life is good, the journey is a bit different than planned but still 1st world problems. I just have to dodge the raindrops.... ;D.

I still had some great rides on Sunday morning.....though the best of the day was screwed by a longboarder (real dumb longboarder) who I just barely managed to miss when he dropped in without looking...or at least I thought he wasn't looking. I saw this wave coming a long way out and started paddling for the horizon and I was the only one out there when it started to break....just barely got on it and had to pump and paddle but I finally got the drop and knew it was going to be fun...took the 1st one deep and then did a hard bottom turn came back up and tore the top off the wave..... 8)….that wave was fast...it overtook the one ahead and caused a weird fold in the face. I shot over it and dropped to the bottom....a little wobbly but I held it, went deep and then came back up for a long floater on the lip. I landed the floater and started to maneuver through all the folks inside. A couple of short quick turns and I was lining up to come off the lip of the next section when this idiot starts flailing his arms to catch the wave. I was flying at that point and I had to cut hard to avoid him. Forced me deep and I missed the next section and got rolled. Shortboarder who watched it all said.."man.....you were ripping that until that guy fucked it up". I rarely say anything nasty to anyone but when the longboarder didn't say anything as I paddled back out and was sitting there with a smirk on his face talking with his buds  I paddled over and told him if he fucking drops in again I'll just run him over. I said it with a smile...which makes me look a bit scary since the left side of my face doesn't work..... ;).

I'm not sure WTF some people are thinking. After seeing his reaction and the smirk I'm pretty sure the drop was on purpose....I'm 6'4" 270 lbs and kind of ogreish looking...I don't think he and his 2 friends combined are as large. Never mind what could have happened if I hadn't turned hard...if I was the angry young me I would have used him as a club to beat his friends.

Long story Zoo...2003 diagnosed, radiation and then surgery...I have no vestibular or hearing organs on the left side now. I always, 24/7, have some level of vertigo from  mild light headed feeling to fall down on your face. I've fallen many times getting out of bed...usually the worst time. Put my forehead through our closet door once.... ::). SUP is my therapy for balance problems... :). The biggest issue now is driving...I don't drive if it's anything more than what I feel comfortable with and I'm starting to drive mostly back roads and slower even when I do feel comfortable enough.


It comes and goes EB...some connection to weather changes, and if my sinuses get clogged with a cold or allergies that screws with me also...but sometimes it just happens. Today I'm fine...just he usual stuff I can ignore. I'm on Grampy duty today so staying in the house anyway though.
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: Beasho on October 11, 2018, 05:35:02 AM
I rarely say anything nasty to anyone but when the longboarder didn't say anything as I paddled back out and was sitting there with a smirk on his face talking with his buds  I paddled over and told him if he fucking drops in again I'll just run him over. I said it with a smile...which makes me look a bit scary since the left side of my face doesn't work..... ;).

Sometimes you just have to snap, as in lose your sh-t.

I never snap but I snapped a few years ago when some guy on a Mav's gun paddled out to Mushroom rock and just went right through the lineup while I was on a wave.  I was alone on a SUP and he and 2 buddies were prone.  Small'ish day 4 to 6 feet through a spot called EY's for Extreme Yackers - A place no Kayaker would ever go.  It's extreme because you go between 2 rocks and when its working you surf, going right, within feet of one of the rocks.  As in there is NO room for a guy paddling out while someone is on the wave.  So he took off inside of me and I went anyways.  I had to kick out because there is NO room for 2 guys to thread that needle.  I later, and in a polite manner, ask 'How was that wave?'  He says "Man you gotta watch your board you almost hit me." 

I didn't recognize the guy so I start laying into him "I don't know who you are, you're definitely NOT from around here and more than half the time you prone guys paddle for a wave you miss them so I am going to take off . . . . "  He says in a pissed off voice 'Oh Really we miss them!'

YES!  I yell back. 

It turned out to be Ben Wilkinson who was 4th on the big wave tour.  Big Ben is 6' 3" and probably 220, Patagonia Cover Boy and looks like Mr Incredible.  I was pretty fit and 175 at the time.  Haaaaa! 

PS:  I told the story to my buddy Ian Wallace who later said "Don't worry man I talked to Ben and apologized for you being a d-ck."  WHAT!   Added insult to injury.
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: supsean on October 11, 2018, 08:00:19 AM
Thanks. great post!
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: stoneaxe on October 11, 2018, 05:43:04 PM
LOL...good story Beasho….but my problem was always that I lost my shit too easily. Thankfully mellowed with age. I try to just laugh now.

Speaking of pacing myself…..a bit of relaxing SUP....beautiful sunset paddle with my wife last night. A very warm October night, sun was down when we came in, went over to the backside and watched the lights of Plymouth come on as it got dark, a smell of roses and salt in the air (beach roses all over). It doesn't get much better than that.
Title: Re: Pace Yourself
Post by: eastbound on October 12, 2018, 05:51:34 AM
ive mellowed too, a good thing---too old to get beat up, or to beat someone up--zero upside in that--only downside is the angst one feels when wronged, when one walks away without standing up--meaningless compared to what can go wrong in a fistfight--even if one "wins"

i commute on a bike nearly an hour each way in NYC traffic---used to yell at aholes several times each ride--makes a healthy activity unhealthy--now i thank the drivers, who follow the law, and yield properly to bikes/bikelanes, with a thumbs up and ok gesture--and i try, usually with success, to not shout down the selfish aholes who put cyclists at risk for no good reason but that they're in a hurry
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