Standup Zone Forum
General => The Shape Shack => Topic started by: SlatchJim on June 11, 2018, 10:14:35 AM
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After 8 or so years of faithful service and abuse, I snapped the blade to my sup sports paddle while simply paddling back out after a wave. It was a clean snap, and I'm sure using it as a cane to walk out of the San Onofre cobble fields among other abuses led to its demise.
I believe the construction is a fiberglass blade shell over a foam core. I've seen a little bit of paddle repair showcased here on the zone. I'd like to try to fix the break, before I get a new blade or complete paddle. My simple ding fix skill level is rising with every attempt. With 25 or so sup and surfboard dings repaired since I started doing things the "correct" way, and not half-assing it, I'm gaining confidence to the point at which I'm happy taking a risk on something I haven't done.
I'll provide pictures of the break when I get home. It's pretty clean, right below where the paddle attaches to the shaft. I'm thinking of using a couple small toothpick sized dowels, gorilla glue, sand both sides, and putting 2 to three pieces of wetted out S glass over the break area, gaining in surface area on each application. I'm ok with ugly and gaining a little weight as long as it's strong and water tight. The dowels might not gain me anything, I don't know at this point.
If anybody feels like posting pics and a brief description of their repair method, I'd be in your debt.
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Jim, I bet Warren would be happy to install a new blade for you. Probably a bit less than a new paddle and certainly less for the landfill.
But, please post some pictures and I bet you will get tons of ideas...some even useful. ;D
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I'm sure Wardog would be happy to accommodate me with a new blade, their customer service has always been top drawer with us. My interest is more of a "Can I fix this and keep on going?" type of question. Think of Beasho and that Clark-shaped spotted sup he fixed about a couple dozen times...like that. I've got all the supplies needed for the fix (I think). If I can, great! If I can't or shouldn't, I'll learn that here before putting out the effort and time.
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https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPooSLGl7-u-A3dwYGRxsvEfk5wYTlh65W81m4k
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPZfOchPIs-J3WjzbAkPvCxg-Qo1te60nOh1Ml5
Here's the damage. The snap is pretty clean. I need to say that these paddles have been amazingly sturdy, and this is the first one we've broke in all the years. Considering my size and capacity for abuse, that's a hell of a track record.
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Lets start with the basic's...... ;)
https://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php/topic,32128.0.html
Your picture links dona worka.
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Ah yes, my fault TD, totally neglected the resize. Let's try this again. ::)
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Jim, I would temporarily glue a splint to the back of the paddle and laminate the front only first. Once that's cured, I would remove the splint and laminate the back (and finish the front).
With the blade supported by the splint, you will be able to aggressively sand down sufficiently to get a good scarph joint. You want to create a valley about 2 1/2" accross the break, giving you enough room to laminate 4 to 5 layers of 6 oz + glass each side.
Once everything is dry, fair (level) it out with your sander ...
If all fails, there is always this:
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2x post
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Bean how do your shoulders feel after a few miles on the weed witch?
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I have one with smaller tines and increase my stroke rate for the longer distance stuff ;D
It is the go to tool for dog spots...
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Considering the number of Great Whites I've seen this year, I might just add that weed witch to a mount while I'm at this. :)
I see yours already has a carbon fiber shaft!
I've got the glue and sticks to use as a splint, and that was my initial idea since this is going to be a "one side at a time gig for at least the first couple of layers. Anyone done this before that might have the pictures showing the process? 1000 words and all... :D
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No pics, but I've done it a few times--just recently to fix a Mana for Rod Parmenter who whacked his foil with it, and a delamed steering blade for the Hood River Outrigger Canoe club. The easiest way I've found is a riff on Jimmy Lewis' "poor man bagging". I'd splint the back with tape and aluminum scraps (I have lots of those) and then set the blade on some firm foam. Lay on a few layers of prewet carbon (make sure you sand down to the glass or carbon for the full repair area) then a layer of plastic film, then some firm foam, then a lot of weights. Actually, I'd stick it in my press here in HR, in maui, weights). Do the carbon pretty dry. The pressing will squish off any excess epoxy, which is no big deal if it runs off to the side, but you'll have to sand off any of it that winds up on the blade. If you do it right you won't need to sand the repair. The plastic, foam, and weights leave it smooth if you get all the wrinkles out.
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After 8 or so years of faithful service and abuse, I snapped the blade to my sup sports paddle while simply paddling back out after a wave. It was a clean snap, and I'm sure using it as a cane to walk out of the San Onofre cobble fields among other abuses led to its demise.
Aloha Jim,
Yup...we can still count the number of our snapped SUP paddles on one hand...out of 1000's sold and on the water...pretty remarkable, really...they were all pretty big guys...and, every single person took responsibility for causing it...I still have my original paddle in service...
http://supsports.com/sup-paddles
Good luck with the repair...looks doable...we have been able to R/R blades as well...worst case scenario...
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...Lay on a few layers of prewet carbon...
If the original construction was glass, I'd stick with glass. Mind you that's where it broke. So upping the game with carbon, I'd want it to extend up the shaft to the froggy bit with more layers up there.
I pick up that Slatch is considering internal splints which some consider to be poor practice. I'm out on that topic. At best they hold the shape while the reinforcement cures. At worst they add a few grams of weight. Maybe they would grind at the existing foam when the blade flexes. So maybe that's a worse at worst.
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I always use carbon to repair blades, first because most have at least some carbon in the structure, but more because glass flexes too much. Carbon has about twice the tensile strength of carbon. Some folks would say that introduces a set of stress risers, but who cares. That you DON'T want happening is for the area of the break to flex. It needs to be rigid. If it flexes that blade with either break again or be horrible. And no, you don't need to extend it up the neck--won't do a thing for you. A half inch on each side of the break will do, make it an inch for belt and suspenders.
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Current Plan based on this thread:
1. Sand both sides, top and bottom back about an inch.
2. Splint to support shape while glassing using Pono's tape support method (probably popsicle sticks). No internal splinting.
3. Apply prewet strips (2-3) of S-Glass / Super Sap to fill in break on one side. I don't have any CF yet
4. Repeat (3) on other side (and maybe No.2 just to keep things solid while I work).
5. Hot coat for finish sanding
6. Sand to finish gloss - no paint - scars add character, paint adds weight.
7. Test, and bring a spare paddle for a while.
8. If failure occurs, visit Wardog for new blade replacement... buy a tee shirt, and maybe a spare leash too, discuss custom board options for wife.
Question: Is there any value in gluing the blade sections together with gorilla glue, say at step 2.1, before glassing happens?
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Yes, a thin thin coat of Gorilla Glue after wiping the joint with a damp rag. It should set in about half an hour. Let sit overnight and then you can fiberglass both sides at one time without splints using the PonoBill / Jimmy Lewis poor man's bagging method.
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So here's what's happening
Father's Day: Kids pull through and i receive a new paddle, purchased from our friends at SUP Sports as a gift. My kids are both good and wise. The broken paddle problem is now just a project, and a fun one.
So far I've finished:
1. Sand both sides, top and bottom back about an inch. (pictures 1-2)
1b. Glued both halves together with gorilla glue
2. Splint to support shape while glassing using Pono's tape support method (popsicle sticks). No internal splinting.
3. Apply prewet strips (2) of S-Glass / Super Sap to fill in break on one side.
4. Went nuts and tried to apply a full wrap of prewet fiberglass around the whole repair on the second step of glassing, developed a bubble that needed sanding out. Learned once again: Less is more.
4b. Sanded out bubble in preparation of final single patch of glass to make things uniform. (pictures 3-4, with bubble remnant visible in picture 4)
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Notes: This repair, while not at all pretty, seems strong as hell. I'm not sure if using super sap and S-glass is more or less easy than some other alternative, but I'm a lot better at fixing dings than I was in the PE resin days with my prone boards. The tape and popsicle stick method after gluing was key to keeping things aligned in their original orientation (thanks bill). Also, complex shapes such as this section of a paddle, with ins and outs, require more patience than I employed, thus the bubble - Lesson learned.
Edit. This workbench came with the house. It looks as ratty in the pictures as it does in real life. My fall project is garage rehab. Fortunately, you zoners are as adept at showing your work spaces as you are at fixing dings. Thanks for the internet mentorship. :D
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Broken blade held great. The shaft...well, I heard some crunching noises and saw some stress evidence near where the blade is attached near the end of a 3.5 hour session. Any advice? I can certainly add some glass in the area of the fracturing. Still seems watertight. Normally I'd just move on, but this whole repair and salvage theme has got me looking at my gear in a new way.
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You got the idea, find the area, wrap it with glass, sand it clean. On the shaft I might go a little further up. That's what he said! (I had to add that to counteract the "hot girls" thread.)
You are doing the right thing. We toss too much stuff. This thing will be a great backup and loaner paddle. I will say that when you can, grab a little carbon to mix with that glass. It's a revelation and tough when mixed with glass over it.
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My next order will have a yard or so of carbon in it. Thanks Cowboy!