Standup Zone Forum
Stand Up Paddle => SUP General => Topic started by: banzai on September 01, 2017, 08:16:14 PM
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Does someone know if it is feasible to cut the deck of a board around the thickest part (center mass), then trim about 1/2 inch off, and re-glass the deck with two layers of cloth to make the board thinner? I have an old 9'2" PSH hull ripper that has too much volume for me. I like the length but feel that I'm not able to burry the rails enough to power through my turns with it. I have the 8'9" hull ripper and use it on small to medium waves but have a difficult time catching waves early enough in large waves or when conditions aren't that great. I wouldn't mind getting a custom board from Blane but his backlog is too much for me. Plus I think hand glassed boards aren't as tough as the factory ones. What you guys think?
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I've wanted to do that to just about every board I've ever owned but never looked into it.
It will be interesting to hear if it's possible.
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You must be a feather weight. That 9' 2" Hull Ripper is a fire chicken. One of the best turning SUPs I've ever ridden.
I weigh 180. It might be worth trying a modern shape like the 8 10 Sunova Acid. Light, strong great reviews and available but yes you have to pay fir all that. I'd hate to see you give that 9' 2" a mullet.
Do you have pictures of it?
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I agree, unless the board is already in bad condition, it's probably not a good idea to perform that kind of surgery. Seems better to sell it and use the money to contribute to the purchase of a board that is better suited to you.
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Taking volume off above the waterline won't do anything to help bury the rails, unless the volume is submerged it's having no effect other than increasing freeboard.
It's feasible to reshape the rails, but it's more work than building a board, and unless you're capable of building a board you aren't capable of reshaping rails.
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Yeah, I'm only 155 lbs so I don't have much weight to change the level of the waterline. That's why I thought if volume comes off from the top, the water line should change. I got the board second hand in decent condition looking for more length as age is catching up to me, my legs aren't as sturdy as before.
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Yeah, I'm only 155 lbs so I don't have much weight to change the level of the waterline. That's why I thought if volume comes off from the top, the water line should change.
Nope.
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True, if you reduce the overall thickness, the waterline will not change. But, proportionally reducing the thickness would naturally slim down the rails and make it easier to penetrate the wave wall.
I'm not suggesting you butcher your board, just pointing out the fact that your theory makes sense. A shaper could probably use that info, along with everything else, to make you a great board.
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Are you fairly new to SUP surfing? If so, the problem might be mostly technique. I had a terrible time, at first, burying a rail and getting the board to turn because I expected it to work like it does on a traditional surf board. Went through several boards until I learned the lesson a couple of years ago from watching SuptheCreek shred on his bigger boards. With bigger, floatier SUPs, you have to get a foot on the rail to get it to turn. You can't just lean like you do on a traditional surfboard. If you don't already do this, give it a try; it works. A foot on the rail gets it to sink and makes the board turn.
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Damn, so simple! Thanks for pointing this out, I've been having a helluva time trying to figure out why it feels so funky and unresponsive. I need a surf trip now
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Thanks for the info.
I kind of knew that it was hard to change the way a board surfs once already shaped, just came up with this idea to help decrease the volume thinking the board may sit lower and give me a more responsive board. I looked at both boards (8'9' & 9'2") and the only real difference was thickness. So I thought reducing the thickness of the 9'2" would reduce the volume, thus producing a similar board to the 8'9". I guess the only way to go is a custom board.