Standup Zone Forum
Stand Up Paddle => Sessions => Topic started by: supthecreek on January 21, 2017, 09:07:25 PM
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We had the usual winter swell.... some size, with a built in penalty.
Some swells hit Cape Cod with a complimentary direction, and waves peel.
Not today.... it was drop, run and get out ;D
I made 2 waves all session.... so much for taking off too far back.
I was on my 9'2 Speeed and my buddy Tommy G was on his 7'6 Angulo carbon "Blue Squared", which he rips! (my name for his board.... don't know the model)
Julia was tearing it up on her Green Exocet, she's a full on cold weather charger.
First 3 shots are one of the bombs that Tommy dropped.... bigger in person, I can tell you..... he manned up, committed over the ledge and got punished for it.
Last 5 are Julia showing us how to pick the right waves and rip them up.
The rest are me, giving a clinic on how to kick out ;D ;D
Overall, pretty fun... no bad rips or shorebreak, so that made the "short & exit" more fun :)
NEsupSURF wisely chose another beach.... I hope he found a workable bar down there.
Zoner "Weed" shot the action, and as always, did a great job!
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Nice session Creek. Sometimes those quick drops and kick-outs run make the sessions more intense. Helps having Weed around on your sessions 8) ....... to take pictures.....
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Great action shots. At this time of the year, I envy you polar bear types who put on your wet/dry suits and brave the cold water for some great sup surfing.
Thanks for sharing the photos.
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At this time of the year, I envy you polar bear types who put on your wet/dry suits and brave the cold water for some great sup surfing.
It's not really as cold as some might think. There's no bravery involved. As long as you wear the right gear, it's usually quite comfortable out there. Yesterday in NH, sea temp 43, air temp 43 and I was almost sweating. We had to take our hoods off now and then to cool off. I get cold easy. I'm not a polar bear. I hate being cold. I don't consider it cold unless it's below 20 degrees and even then it's not too bad. I usually feel warmer when I'm surfing than I do when I'm sitting at home.
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Those looked tasty on the initial drop, clean. What a shame they then walled up and needed an exit. But that's way better then not surfing at all. Great stoke.
The cold of the winter is a mental obstacle for me. I need to way ahead psych myself to pass it, commit to the session. Once suited up and in the water it's not that bad. Just gotta get up and over the idea of the cold.
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The cold of the winter is a mental obstacle for me. I need to way ahead psych myself to pass it, commit to the session. Once suited up and in the water it's not that bad. Just gotta get up and over the idea of the cold.
I should have added that the only way I'm able to surf in winter is to put my suit on at home and drive to the beach in my suit. If I had to suit up at the beach, I would freeze before I got to the water. I don't know how people manage to suit up at the beach and still stay warm but many do. Board Stiff did it yesterday. Some people just have that inner furnace going all the time.
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Looks like you had a real "Kick Out" there! :P Challenging for sure in full rubber. Clean Creek lines.
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Some super pics for sure!!!!
Your friend Weed has a fantastic eye. Say, you ought to slip him your digital recorder and capture some up close video.. 8) 8) 8)
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I thought for sure this thread was going to be about Drumpfs first day in office. ;D
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Awesome!
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I drove up, watched, went to a different spot and was crushed like a tiny little insect..I broke my Garmin Vivioactive HR dammit! ;D ;D ;D
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Creek: For us smaller wave riders, can you explain what typically happens once you and your board abort the ride starting at the time of your image - (reference images #5 and #11)? I presume your punching through the backside without much punishment(???) Same for the board(?) Or are these the size of waves that tend to pick you (and board) up and toss you over the falls? I'm guessing its also a matter of momentum falling into the wave(?)
Any insight greatly appreciated!!!!
8) 8)
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great pics!!!!
Wind was almost non existent down here in Jersey too. so rare to get this size and glassy waves this time of year. There was a great 3 day window of waves down here Fri Sat Sun- (that i missed all of :'()
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There was a great 3 day window of waves down here Fri Sat Sun- (that i missed all of :'()
I hate it when that happens. I can at times make the cynical observation that real surfers don't miss it when it's on. Real surfers don't have jobs, families, appointments or any other liabilities, if it's not with them at the beach, they don't need it. Sometimes , in a frustrated moment, I wish I was one.
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There was a great 3 day window of waves down here Fri Sat Sun- (that i missed all of :'()
I hate it when that happens. I can at times make the cynical observation that real surfers don't miss it when it's on. Real surfers don't have jobs, families, appointments or any other liabilities, if it's not with them at the beach, they don't need it. Sometimes , in a frustrated moment, I wish I was one.
Yep. That's it exactly. Family party and stuff with the kids all weekend. No breaks.....
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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Whatsup asked a good question and the title implies same.
My guess is STC didn't get too pounded in #11, but there's a fine line.
Cape certainly get its share of close-outs, especially in an ESE swell with occasional hero waves ...often seems like luck, but there is a trick to picking the right ones.
Safest move is to straighten out and run for it....but the price you pay is a more prolonged beating trying to get back out
A hard bottom turn to hit the lip and kick out and over is fine, but works really well only if you make it out the back completely. A hard paddle push helps alot....and jumping / leaping over is a good thing
Into the face is not "so" bad.
OR...you could try what happened to me later in the day on a hollow one, and that is to be late for the kickout, and jump-fall face down onto just the backside of the lip....this resulted in an over the falls on my back cannon-ball with paddle-in-hand free fall wondering how hard the sand is. I definitely tuck on those. I think this most the intrinsically dangerous exit ....Its probably inevitable if you are going hollow in beach break.....................................
I would much prefer to end up in the face....even though you would think that it is about to become the lip, the tumble is a little less violent especially if you are low and can get deep
my two cents good pics and charging btw
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Creek: For us smaller wave riders, can you explain what typically happens once you and your board abort the ride starting at the time of your image - (reference images #5 and #11)? I presume your punching through the backside without much punishment(???) Same for the board(?) Or are these the size of waves that tend to pick you (and board) up and toss you over the falls? I'm guessing its also a matter of momentum falling into the wave(?)
Any insight greatly appreciated!!!!
8) 8)
Whatz^
Good question, so I have been putting together some pics....
then decided to do a video with different kinds of kick out's as well, I may combine them.....
I will post that as a new Topic. Maybe tomorrow.... if I ever finish it :)
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Awesome! Sounds great Creek.
As mentioned in a post I made over in Cookie-mon's January swell thread, I'm currently on this kick of trying to better understand how wave size affects punch-thru's and various types of wipe-outs. Probably difficult to do as I'm sure there's soooo many dynamics playing - I know I've had some stupid beatings falling over the front of my board in just 2-3'.. :o :o
Looking forward to your next vid.....
8) 8)
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OR...you could try what happened to me later in the day on a hollow one, and that is to be late for the kickout, and jump-fall face down onto just the backside of the lip....this resulted in an over the falls on my back cannon-ball with paddle-in-hand free fall wondering how hard the sand is. I definitely tuck on those. I think this most the intrinsically dangerous exit ....Its probably inevitable if you are going hollow in beach break.....................................
These kickout/jumpovers are what typically leave me the most banged up after a session. Either I completely clear the wave, and end up falling awkwardly all the way down to the trough behind it, or I come up way short and slam into the walled up face! :'(
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Hawaiian survival dive hard and low break on through to the other side. As far away from the BIG HEAAVY SUP as possible. Pulling in very different on a short board.
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i think what happened to me, when kicking out and over, was that the big surface of the sup nose caught the lip rather than slicing thru, and literally tripped me up into a face plant on the waterfall-to-be-me
wanna play....gonna pay
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Agree Outcast....I'm beginning to think that sometimes its best to simply straighten out (putting the nose to the beach) and doing the Nestea Plunge off the back then dealing with the paddle out.