Standup Zone Forum
General => The Shape Shack => Topic started by: Badger on December 04, 2016, 07:13:28 AM
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Replacing a LiftSup handle with a SUP GRIP handle.
I have very little experience with board repairs. This was the first time I've done anything this major. My procedure was very unorthodox. I kind of learned as I went along but I'm happy with the results. All criticisms are welcome. :)
I don't know how to post sentences between the pics so I will list the steps here with the corresponding pics below.
Step 1. I removed the deck pad from the area of the handle. The liftSup mechanism is removed by cutting it in half.
Step 2. I made a template from a piece of Lexan I had laying around and strapped it to the board over the LiftSup handle. I had to put some pieces of adhesive weatherstrip on the underside to keep it from sliding around.
Step 3. I routed out the hole with a Ryobi standard non-plunging router using a 2 1/2" carbide single "O" Flute plastic cutting bit.
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5176-solid-carbide-single-o-flute-plastic-cutting-router-bits.aspx
It cut through the plastic no problem. I left the remainder of the handle in the board. Some foam was exposed but the plastic base contained a 3/4 inch void beneath the new handle which I filled with foam.
I decided to leave the flange of the new handle above deck and not rout out an inset. This meant the handle would not be flush but it's only an eighth of an inch and once covered with the deck pad you hardly notice it.
Step 4. I set the new SUP GRIP handle into the board with Gorilla Glue. I made sure I got glue on every surface that would come in contact with the handle and used enough so that as the glue expands, it would fill every void and come out onto the deck. That worked great. I set a ten pound weight on the handle to make sure it stayed down and didn't pop back up. I stood by with a butter knife to scrape away the glue as it came out onto the deck around the handle. It took about 30 minutes for the glue to stop expanding and begin to set up.
Step 5. Once the glue was dry, I sanded around the handle and fared around the edges of the flange with epoxy to create a gentle slope using West System 410 Microlight Faring Filler which I sanded smooth.
Step 6. I glassed around the handle with two layers of 6 oz cloth making sure to cover the flange, the entire faring area and some deck. Then covered that with Peel Ply. It was my first time using Peel Ply and it works great, making it require very little sanding after.
Step 7. I cut the deck pad material and glued it on using 3M High Strength 90 contact adhesive.
I could have done a fancier, more professional job but I think this is plenty strong, watertight and looks pretty good so I'm very happy with it.
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Looks good. I admire how you pulled the trigger and took a router to your pristine board and it worked out. Definite improvement for New England winter conditions.
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Looks like a very professional job of replacing the LiftSup handle with the Sup Grip. Congrats.
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Well done Badger, looks like a solid installation. Cutting the LiftSUP handle to remove it by twisting out the two sides is genius!
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Yea, nice work Badger!
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Just like downtown, baby!
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Looks like you did a solid job Badger, congratulations!
When you cut through the original handle, the router didn't catch on the plastic handle and push any bits into the foam?
When I routed out the center box on my RAW, it chewed up the foam a bit as It threw pieces around..... and I went very slowly. Maybe I had a dull bit??
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Looks like you did a solid job Badger, congratulations!
When you cut through the original handle, the router didn't catch on the plastic handle and push any bits into the foam?
When I routed out the center box on my RAW, it chewed up the foam a bit as It threw pieces around..... and I went very slowly. Maybe I had a dull bit??
Thanks Rick.
It did a little but not much. Most of the bits were fairly small and didn't have much force behind them. Maybe the type of bit I used made a difference.
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When I routed out the center box on my RAW, it chewed up the foam a bit as It threw pieces around..... and I went very slowly. Maybe I had a dull bit??
Not dull. It's a challenge for most people.
That's why I pre-slice around the perimeter with this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Multi-Tool-Tool-Only-XMT03Z/205302496
So called experts poo-poo'd this idea last time I posted it. >:(
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Badgers success in routing through the old handle-body clearly demonstrates the efficacy of the streamlined process.
Accordingly, even a non-expert like myself would have no choice but to "poo-poo" the "pre-slice" approach based solely upon the prima facie evidence presented.
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Props for cutting open a perfectly good board and tacking this project on - Looks great! Learn as you go is the best way to learn, im self taught as well. :)
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double post
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This looks good man. Thx for the how to.
The gorilla glue was an interesting choice. Seems like a good way to fill and seal. Keep us posted on the durability of the fix long term. I can see a lot of folks wanting to do this.
Clean job on the pad too!
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Thanks. The Gorilla Glue was suggested by someone in my earlier post. It set up very solid and sealed well. It's not going to move.
The fairing compound double sealed the flange and was also rock solid. Glassing it over was probably overkill.
I'll report back if it fails.