Standup Zone Forum
Stand Up Paddle => SUP General => Topic started by: DailyBread Surf Photo on November 26, 2014, 11:23:47 PM
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Kahului harbor this morning.
http://youtu.be/k-W40jWGXYw
:D
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Looks like fun, if you don't mind laying in that pilau harbor water.
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I'm more concerned with some of the underwater residents in there than I am about the water quality, at least on most days. I have seen HUGE things jump in the harbor, sometimes when I've been out there, sometimes from shore. Spooky. And, there was the guy that got his board bit in there too, like four or five weeks ago. But the waves can be so fun there that I'd go out anyway.
I was having a great time surfing in there two weeks ago when the tugs pulled one of the barges out. Forty-five minutes later, a brown slick that looked absolutely disgusting drifted in, floating just outside the break. Looked like they'd flushed the bilges or worse. Maybe it wasn't from the boats but it was nasty looking. Often, there is trash floating in the water, things like wrappers, plastic bottles and other assorted crap. Sad. But, a few days later that same week, I saw another nasty slick at Kanaha. So, dirty water isn't confined to just the harbor.
Sorry to go all downer about the water quality.....Like the surf mat video, that looks like a lot of fun. Thanks for posting it!
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Yeppers...wave feeding at both ends of the spectrum...every day is overhead...;-)
http://supsports.com/shop/gear/krypt-surf-mat
Lots of vid clips on this blog post below...including a new one of MT's grandson, Jake, absolutely ripping!
http://blog.surfingsports.com/2014/09/mat-surfing.html
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Yeppers...wave feeding at both ends of the spectrum...every day is overhead...;-)
http://supsports.com/shop/gear/krypt-surf-mat
Lots of vid clips on this blog post below...including a new one of MT's grandson, Jake, absolutely ripping!
http://blog.surfingsports.com/2014/09/mat-surfing.html
I won my Krypt mat for the 2013 barrel of the year contest
http://magictowelride.blogspot.com.au/2013/12/the-2013-krypt-surf-technology-surf-mat.html?m=1
http://youtu.be/5hEU2v4XAaI
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Totally counter intuitive; "Softer is faster." ...waaa?! Short and soft.. 'against the rules of nature. Almost like standing up before takeoff...
Jim
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Open your mind, and you will be set free.
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That ^^^^^(4th Gear) is an amazing video! Love the barrels! Great rides and great photography!
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How is this different from "sponging" on a boogie board?
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Really cool video... great edit. Those are some intense little suck-ups... onto damp sand if you screw up, I'd want something soft, just to cushion the blow ;D
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Thanks for the memories. :D :D Intrigued to feel that again.
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How is this different from "sponging" on a boogie board?
bodyboards are a fixed plaining surface, the mat is not. The mat takes a great deal of finess to operate and a background in bodysurfing is very useful.
bodyboards you lean and use your rail to turn, the mat you rely on lifting the outer front and pressure your inside fin. The twisting of the nose redirects waterflow to turn you.
bodyboards hit chop or bumps on the surface which slow them down. the mat redistributes the bump through the mat that absorbs the energy and you don't slow down by the bump. think of it like a tank crossing the desert, you see the side profile as the track going over bumps, kind of the same theory.
mat surfing was probably the hardest to get good at. and i've tried almost every way to surf a wave. but the reward for doing it right is pretty incredible. especially on a long, good wall. the speed rush is what gets you hooked and searching for it again.
If you've not seen it, watch this vid of Mark Thomson from AU. Complete master of surf mat riding. http://youtu.be/_e6-djfp3BM
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Good stuff, love the cutbacks. Is that Kaanapali?
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How is this different from "sponging" on a boogie board?
bodyboards are a fixed plaining surface, the mat is not. The mat takes a great deal of finess to operate and a background in bodysurfing is very useful.
bodyboards you lean and use your rail to turn, the mat you rely on lifting the outer front and pressure your inside fin. The twisting of the nose redirects waterflow to turn you.
bodyboards hit chop or bumps on the surface which slow them down. the mat redistributes the bump through the mat that absorbs the energy and you don't slow down by the bump. think of it like a tank crossing the desert, you see the side profile as the track going over bumps, kind of the same theory.
mat surfing was probably the hardest to get good at. and i've tried almost every way to surf a wave. but the reward for doing it right is pretty incredible. especially on a long, good wall. the speed rush is what gets you hooked and searching for it again.
If you've not seen it, watch this vid of Mark Thomson from AU. Complete master of surf mat riding. http://youtu.be/_e6-djfp3BM
What is amazing in that video is the speed he gets in the flats. I bought one of those cheap mats a few months ago and I just couldn't get it to go.
I've been having lots of fun on this as a belly board.
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Good stuff, love the cutbacks. Is that Kaanapali?
yeah. I was out that day, and the day before, using a handplane. It was sick. The first 3-4 seconds of each ride were great, but that last second was gnarly
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How is this different from "sponging" on a boogie board?
bodyboards are a fixed plaining surface, the mat is not. The mat takes a great deal of finess to operate and a background in bodysurfing is very useful.
bodyboards you lean and use your rail to turn, the mat you rely on lifting the outer front and pressure your inside fin. The twisting of the nose redirects waterflow to turn you.
bodyboards hit chop or bumps on the surface which slow them down. the mat redistributes the bump through the mat that absorbs the energy and you don't slow down by the bump. think of it like a tank crossing the desert, you see the side profile as the track going over bumps, kind of the same theory.
mat surfing was probably the hardest to get good at. and i've tried almost every way to surf a wave. but the reward for doing it right is pretty incredible. especially on a long, good wall. the speed rush is what gets you hooked and searching for it again.
If you've not seen it, watch this vid of Mark Thomson from AU. Complete master of surf mat riding. http://youtu.be/_e6-djfp3BM
What is amazing in that video is the speed he gets in the flats. I bought one of those cheap mats a few months ago and I just couldn't get it to go.
I've been having lots of fun on this as a belly board.
Cheap isn't good and good isn't cheap. Rules to live by.
There's a reason for thickness, size, and specific PSI to make them go.
I've tried the cheap $5 kind that are too thin.
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"the speed rush is what gets you hooked" ...or perhaps the perception of speed. An airliner at FL35 making 500kts looks like it is crawling from the passenger's window.
"the mat redistributes the bump through the mat that absorbs the energy" ... I don't know anything about fluid dynamics, but I don't know of any other hull form that goes thru water flexing. (..towables behind ski boats) If so, it seems inflatable SUPs would dominate the forums ..and Tom Morey would have announced this in the 70's.
It does look like a fun item to have for non-waterfolk visitors.
Jim
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I don't know anything about fluid dynamics...I don't know of any other hull form that goes thru water flexing
It does look like a fun item to have for non-waterfolk visitors.
Jim
Not many hull forms go thru the water not flexing...boards and fins are designed to flex...dolphins, tunas, whales, sea lions...etc...will all blow the top paddle racers in the world away ... despite them using the stiffest boards, fins, and paddles...;-)
Board and fin flex is definitely an aspect that I spend time working on with my products...being influenced by George Greenough, Mike Tinkler, Stan Pleskunas, Tom Morey and others...etc...
http://blog.surfingsports.com/2014/09/mat-surfing.html
George Greenough and Daniel Thomson (you might recognize his nickname...Tomo) do know a bit about hydrodynamics and having fun...thay are probably not in the "non-waterfolk" mat riding category...;-)
"Having fun is the most important thing...and, you don't have much more fun than riding a mat..." - Tomo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UVrIa2ukS4
http://vimeo.com/101923181
"Flex Is Surfing's Hot Topic
One important property of a modern surfboard we often overlook is flex. This is now a hot topic in surfboard design. Surfers are starting to understand how surfboard flex affects our surfing and which design characteristics increase flex memory. Shapers everywhere are responding to this increased interest.
A Surfboard WIll Flex In A Turn And Then Release
Flex allows your surfboard to build energy through turns when the surfboard's materials change shape. Picture this sequence: You drop into a fast, steep bottom turn. As you do so your surfboard's foam will bend into the turn. This results in more rocker and stored energy. As you come out of this turn and aim for the lip the foam snaps back to its original shape, releasing the stored energy and shooting the surfer out of the turn. A seasoned surfer will turn this burst of energy into acceleration, propelling himself into the next maneuver. "
http://www.surfscience.com/topics/surfboard-anatomy/stringer/the-importance-of-flex/
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Whoa! I saw wetstuff's post and thought it would set off a little storm. Surf mats are for kooks... ...and for the most experienced surfers. It's like thinking bodysurfing is for people who can't afford a surfboard, though I admit that's how I started a zillion years ago.
Inflatable boards actually could be an advantage in the surf, but they need to be developed more, like everything else. Twisting and flexing to the optimal shape to adsorb the energy of a wave is how to go fast. Most of the things designers do to hard boards is to compensate for their inability to flex. That doesn't mean random flexing, that means specific flexing. Watching a really good surf mat rider lift the bottom corner of his mat while he buries the upper corner and pushes his upper fin into the wave is a lesson in wave energy and hydrodynamics.
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Surf mats are for kooks... ...and for the most experienced surfers.
And who are SUP's for?
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Exactly.
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Everyone needs to own a pair of fins.
Fun to hassle ratio is off the charts.
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I still bodysurf a couple of times a year. I need to get serious about bodyboarding with a hand plane again. I was never that great at it, but I have good survival instincts and my bailout moves are top notch. I landed standing in dry sand at windandsea once upon a time.
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I still bodysurf a couple of times a year. I need to get serious about bodyboarding with a hand plane again. I was never that great at it, but I have good survival instincts and my bailout moves are top notch. I landed standing in dry sand at windandsea once upon a time.
Need a handlane I get plenty. A couple BrownFish http://www.brownfishhandplanes.com/ and a home made job that I've used for years.
There's a couple that bodysurf Greentrees when there's alittle E windswell and NW bump makes for some fun wedges.
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Love my Scott fins and my Airwaves Boogie Board..Gotta get a hand plane. Do they have winter models extra thick for extra flavor?
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I have a paulownia handplane made by Wegener. I also made one myself, from a cutting board I bought at Ikea for $4-5. Shaping the wood took a bit more effort and time than I expected. I simply used brass wood screws to attach a 3" Nylon handle to it. Surprisingly, I like the Ikea handplane better than the paulownia, because it is a denser wood, and thus more neutral when swimming. I use DaFins with no fin socks. A good handplane session feels like a complimentary workout to stand up paddling, and you get to focus on looking out of the tube as well.
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Are the mats or planes acceptable during black ball or no surfing allowed? Huntington beach had the black ball up at 10 am during the summer back in the 60's. If allowed the mat is a great option.
My start in catching waves as a kid was body surfing. We also had skim boards and mats. Since I started surfing I never enjoyed the mat as much. I used them when hitchhiking to the beach before I started driving where hitching a ride with a board did not work so well. I no longer have a mat but I may get one for my grandkids. I hope to give them the passion and for me bodysurfing and mats set the hook for my lifetime of surfing.
By the way, I consider a mat rider another surfer. I give them some space when surfing.
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first waves were on mats at age 7--used to ride on knees, or drop knee, yearning bad to be a surfer--got sheets of blisters on my arms/shopulders/face back then--bad melanoma precursor--that and that my dad has had em--he survived, despite a big one found 25 yrs ago--i get checked at least once a yr
went on to knee boarding--in fact have a nice balastar gathering dust now that i sus
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I must admit I come from a point of ignorance as I have never seen anything better than an air mattress in the water. I am an ex small boat/iceboat sailor from Wisconsin. I was on the eastcoast when slick bottom bodyboards peaked in popularity but never saw a mat. If you who have tried the mat, say it works... I accept your word.
Jim
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It looks like mat riding and sponging for that matter would be good for developing a useful set of water reflexes. My plate is full at the moment just learning how to stand up SUS, but maybe someday...
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Grainy shot of my son and I splitting a little shorebreak peak on 4th Gears from this summer
(http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t77/bob_nery/Splitpeak_zpsa7df9a9e.jpg) (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/bob_nery/media/Splitpeak_zpsa7df9a9e.jpg.html)