Standup Zone Forum
Stand Up Paddle => Technique => Topic started by: blueplanetsurf on September 24, 2014, 10:30:06 AM
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Here a a couple of videos we shot at our weekly coaching group last week. Coaching topic: Surfing on Raceboards.
Part one is on the beach coaching, the sound quality is not the best, sorry. The second one is on the water with some great footage of our surfing session while the sun was setting.
Part 1- on land coaching
http://youtu.be/kkKtU_4KvAI
Part 2- on the water with voiceover.
http://youtu.be/53-w03UfB5w
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Nice videos as always Robert. I have a lot of fun surfing my 14' race board. A few weeks ago StandingDan and I went for a little distance paddle then mixed it up with some race board surfing. I my book, it's the perfect blend of cardio-then-fun. All the movements are in slow motion compared to a short surf SUP. You can make some big long bottom turns, head back to a high line and let the nose slide down again. Part of the fun of surfing race boards is taking the energy that is captured by that big board, and controlling it. Your right about a the strong leash too. I took a dive on a closeout, and the leash didn't stand a chance between my 240# and the big board getting rolled. I went for a swim with part of a coiled leash still attached to my ankle, holding my hat, throwing my paddle, and getting dragged down by my hip mounted water pack. Good thing I only had a 100 yds or so to swim.
BTW, I met Jenny the other day in Dana Point. We swapped boards, she paddled my unlimited and I paddled her Dark Horse. She said, "If a big guy like me can paddle her board, Robert should be able to." Not sure what that meant? Any way, she has a great spirit! Big Aloha.
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Nice....I frequently will bring my 14 along when I head out for surf. Particularly for long flat beach breaks like we have here at Newport. It kind of guarantees you won't get skunked. You can catch a ripple but its most fun for me when it's waist to chest at the break. Waves will start to build far out but can't be caught on a regular board. The looks I get as I paddle through the folks inside is priceless...I can see the shortboarders thinking WTF?... :). Once I get a few from way WAY outside and ride them to the beach though even some of the grumpy old longboarders seem to get it.
I love the long smooth turns. Kind of like downwinding but without all the bumps and balance challenge. I have to think that this is the closest to what the beach boys felt riding those massive koa boards. Glad we don't have to haul around 100+ lbs of lumber today though.
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That is super cool. I love that green board!
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Excellent video... lots of fun... the more options that you can employ on the water, the better!
You certainly need a good skill set to surf a race board well.
At the Huntington Beach Pro last week, the Hawaiian team was late for the "TeamSUP surfing expression session, so they hit the water on their race boards.... they were ripping it up!!! till they got pulled out of the water... too many SUSers out there to have 14 footers flying around.... but great fun while it lasted!
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Two more great Blue Planet videos!
Robert, you are effortlessly down to earth and easy going. I would love to sit down and have a beer or ride some waves together someday!
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I will say, those boards, like my 14, are more DW boards than race boards....at least what I think of as race boards. I doubt I'll ever surf Bill's 18' Speedboard.
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Thank you for the comments guys! The sound quality in the part 1 is pretty awful but I really like the way the part 2 on the water video came out, I think it's one of the best videos I have put together so far even though I did the voiceover after midnight last night and sound a bit tired and slow.
Yes, the boards Jeff and I are using are downwind boards for sure with planing hulls which surf much better than pointy flat water low rockered displacement hulls but even on those the same concepts apply, if you move back far enough on the tail you can surf and turn almost any board.
TallDude, you paddled Jenn Lee's 12'6" x 24" race board? I have not even attempted to paddle that thing, seems like it would be too tippy for me at 195 lbs but if you can balance on it, I should be able to as well, I think that's what she meant. I guess I will have to try it now, thanks to you. She asked me to design a 12'6 x 23" version of the Dark Horse for her, I call it the Ninja Racer and it will be ready soon. Boards like that just seem like too much work to me but they sure are fast.
Jeff attempted to paddle standing up on his prone Bark board today, which is less than 20" wide and has a rounded bottom. He was able to stand up for a bit but did not go very far...
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...Waves will start to build far out but can't be caught on a regular board. The looks I get as I paddle through the folks inside is priceless...I can see the shortboarders thinking WTF?... :). Once I get a few from way WAY outside and ride them to the beach though even some of the grumpy old longboarders seem to get it...
So true...I attempted to shoot the Malibu pier on my raceboard the other day...Laird who?? Shoulda seen the looks I got as I took off way out on 2nd point. It was like deer in headlights. Met a pretty lady on a SUP who paddled over and complimented me on my turns. Made a new FB friend out of it. See attachment below.
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I enjoyed that second video, thanks. Looks like fun, fun, fun surfing. Nicely done.
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I went out at Newport once 4 years ago, it was just knee to thigh but it was a moon low tide. Mostly longboarders out with a few kids on tiny potato chips jumping on inside for a couple of quick turns. I was the only SUP. I had been surfing my 11-2 blend which in that wave put me just outside the longboarders. I noticed that it was was almost peaking multiple times on bars outside as it came in. Unusual at that size but is was so low it was almost working. Swapped the 11 for my 14 and paddled way the hell out. I had to be 200 yards outside the longboarders or more. Hung around at the spot until I saw a bigger set coming and caught the 1st wave. Long cruising ride, had to walk out and put the pedal down as the wave flattened between bars but pretty easy to stay on it until it would peak again, walk back to the tail, repeat...getting in close it started to break and peel and I just turned down the line and cruised to the sand. Did that a dozen times. I was doing it all well to the side of where the others were but my truck was parked right in front so last wave I cruised right through everyone. one longboarder says as a I cruise by "very cool".....had me smiling for a week every time I thought of it....if he only knew what a kook I was.
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So true...I attempted to shoot the Malibu pier on my raceboard the other day...Laird who?? Shoulda seen the looks I got as I took off way out on 2nd point. It was like deer in headlights. Met a pretty lady on a SUP who paddled over and complimented me on my turns. Made a new FB friend out of it. See attachment below.
Looks like you missed it by about 350 yards.
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...Waves will start to build far out but can't be caught on a regular board. The looks I get as I paddle through the folks inside is priceless...I can see the shortboarders thinking WTF?... :). Once I get a few from way WAY outside and ride them to the beach though even some of the grumpy old longboarders seem to get it...
So true...I attempted to shoot the Malibu pier on my raceboard the other day...Laird who?? Shoulda seen the looks I got as I took off way out on 2nd point. It was like deer in headlights. Met a pretty lady on a SUP who paddled over and complimented me on my turns. Made a new FB friend out of it. See attachment below.
:)
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Looks like you missed it by about 350 yards.
That's only because I was on a 12'6
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OK. Ya got me wanting it. I surfed LB for decades. The older I got, the longer the boards got, the further out from the line up I got, the more about the glide than the butt wiggling it got. I bought a 12' SUP and thought I'ld died and went to heaven. This takes it to a whole new level. :)
So I don't have a racer, but I do have a 14' tourer (Riviera Voyager). I still have the stock fin on it. I am only 175. I bought it to load up and go camping. Think it's fast enough to do this? And point me towards some better fin choices if you could. Oh, and leash choices. Unless I'm way off on the board I have.
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That's just about the perfect board for it. You need to get it up to max speed as the wave approaches so you start paddling for it much earlier and get ready to walk, trim is everything. Probably more width than you need but if its fast enough that will make it easier if anything. I'm 265 and my Vec 14' is 28". I have one of Larry's CHill race fins in it. A leash that will get you far enough out to trim and heavy duty....big board more mass. I use a heavy Dakine 12'er. Just make sure nobody is anywhere near you if it goes south....that's potentially 26' or more of reach.
I guarantee the 1st time you do it you'll be wearing a shit eating grin all day....kinda like this.... ;D...... 8)
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Thanks man! Appreciate the response.
I just checked and there's no leash plug on the damn thing. WTF! I hate glass work.
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Wow, if a picture is worth a thousand words, then you couldn't put a number on those videos.
Thanks for posting them. They definitely opened my mind, as I have been only surfing on shorter planing boards and never really considered surfing on longer racing/touring type boards.
Now I think I need to get a new longer board, and a less narrow mind.
Two minute ride on a small day?!! Consider me a convert....
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These guys knew this way back then.....
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And now the counter point.
Surf all you want but If you're going to race track catching the outside bombs and skunking everyone inside without regard for sharing, I may have to have a discussion...or worse. Had this exact thing happen a couple of times. with a group of about 3 race board riders catching everything three zip codes before anyone else and then just riding them straight. Have a fun ride but I'm gonna catch the shoulder and have some fun while you torpedo toward the beach, and hopefully you can turn that barge.
(seriously, just like I have no business mucking up shortboarders waves and wouldn't out of respect...sharing and common sense should rule the day)
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Had a great session with a mate last week during Starboard Dealers Meeting in Spain. We woke up at 6 a. m., picked up the new (from 2015) All-Star 14'0 (him) and Race 14'0 (me) and paddle along the coast. As we were paddling back we saw some good clean and small waves and went for it. Really fun. And I didn't had the feeling of being on a 14'0 board.
I also had a couple of sessions with a SIC Bullet 12'6 SCC at my home spot on small days. And I can carve the beast!
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And now the counter point.
Surf all you want but If you're going to race track catching the outside bombs and skunking everyone inside without regard for sharing, I may have to have a discussion...or worse. Had this exact thing happen a couple of times. with a group of about 3 race board riders catching everything three zip codes before anyone else and then just riding them straight. Have a fun ride but I'm gonna catch the shoulder and have some fun while you torpedo toward the beach, and hopefully you can turn that barge.
(seriously, just like I have no business mucking up shortboarders waves and wouldn't out of respect...sharing and common sense should rule the day)
Good point SlatchJim, use a race board to go to remote spots and surf on waves that nobody else can or wants to surf on, don't use raceboards to "steal" waves at regular, crowded spots, that is uncool.
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Forgot about this one from Oz.... ripping OH on a racer!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hi_KfOEUyFQ#t=30
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SlatchJim, for me the whole appeal to it is NOT being in a crowded lineup. New water to enjoy.
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Yeah...a lineup is the last place for a 14'er.
I'm looking for a great pic I have of Mikelefty from 2010....he was carving it up on his old Bark before the 1st Wellfleet Supathalon. Crazy skills, I'd have a hard time paddling it on glass.
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Here's a repost of an old movie I did a few years back when I first learned how to use a rudder board. Funny watching it now but it goes with this post. PBill and I do much bigger swells (but not big) outside the harbor. Big boards have their limits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EG27aVjwPQ
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I love that vid.....feels like I'm watching an old time documentary.
Here's the pic of ML....I don't think that Bark is a 14 though now that I look at it....12'-something?
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SlatchJim, for me the whole appeal to it is NOT being in a crowded lineup. New water to enjoy.
As I would expect from our well educated and common sensical viewership. Hell, if I had one that day, I would have made the quick jaunt to the outside reef that was breaking and had the whole place to myself too. You're spot on, avoid the crowds and enjoy your buddies all on your own. Doesn't get better than that.
(But Doheny, on a weekend - cringeworthy)
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Thanks man! Appreciate the response.
I just checked and there's no leash plug on the damn thing. WTF! I hate glass work.
Install a couple of the NSI or Surfco glue on plugs.
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Thanks man! Appreciate the response.
I just checked and there's no leash plug on the damn thing. WTF! I hate glass work.
Install a couple of the NSI or Surfco glue on plugs.
That's a great idea. Thanks!
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BARK Team surfing race boards:
<iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/23708655" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/23708655">Events: BOP Hawaii with the Bark Team - Surf and Paddle</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/finfilms">Fin Film Company</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
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The Dominator is fairly versatile and can surf when called upon.
http://youtu.be/bdYvvor4oDk
Acceleration is good catching waves but prefer the stability and ease pearling of the Bullet 14v2 downwind in breeze. Both are about the same width weight and volume with completely different design concepts. Both Joe and Mark are to be commended in creating fast stable boards that do not require elite balance.
8)
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I had some fun long rides on my 14 on Saturday. Almost wish I hadn't brought it though since I paddled 3 miles to an outer bar only to find chaos. The surfing on the way back was fun though and caught some real long rides. Of course if I had just waited for the tide to drop instead of paddling the 3 miles I'd have surfed a lot more.
The feel of surfing the 14 is so different. I love mixing it all together. Jumping on my 9'er after 4 hours on the 14 was a bit weird though. It took a few waves to shift back to short....I almost pulled myself off the board and pearled the 1st couple of waves... :P
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This is what happened to me when I took a 14'DW board out in 6' surf. What you can't see is the section setting up 50 yds down the line. Tried to high line it, leaned in, stuck the blade in the wave. My body turned but not the board.
Just a little rocker tho and it'd be good.
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This is what happened to me when I took a 14'DW board out in 6' surf. What you can't see is the section setting up 50 yds down the line. Tried to high line it, leaned in, stuck the blade in the wave. My body turned but not the board.
Just a little rocker tho and it'd be good.
Looks like you're attempting a barefoot waterski dis-mount ;D
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That's a great sequence headmount. Did you recover the cap?
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I love that pic. Go pro shots of wipeouts are often more interesting than when you make it.
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Those videos are great! I have only kinda surfed my X14 on one small race I did at beach but it was only like knee high and a quick little beach break. Florida does not have a lot of those long rides like in the videos. There are a few but you gotta kinda know where to look. I use my PSH 12'6" hull paddler when condotions get like that on the outside sandbars near me. Just cruising on non breaking waves and then pulling out before the shore break. Kinda want try a Jimmy Lewis M14 just for doing things like that.
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I actually did take my 14 into the lineup a bit on Saturday when it got smaller at low tide. Stayed well away from everyone for the most part though except for one guy on a surf kayak that tried desperately to drop in on me once. One mistake though....I removed the pad I used to have on her in preparation for a makeover that got postponed and I replaced it with a smaller temporary mosaic for the CCBC so there is nothing back on the tail.....just realized I should've left that fall on the vid.....kind of funny...stepped back and ZIP! So not much real turning and no real long rides....we have a few spots like that here but Nantasket is not one of them. I was pretty much just straight down the line and having to bail at the end before running out of water....could not get the nose up and out without getting back. I still got a big ding in the nose. She's going in for that makeover now for sure. Getting Larry's twins added to the tail.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnVPj2H6tXo
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Nice Stoneaxe, those waves look fun, good down the line speeding.
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Gives new meaning to "Stoney's BIG adventure" I may have to make a sequel ;D ;D
Looks like you had a blast!
Question:
One thing I noticed in all the "Carnage" videos from BOP, it seems like the narrow boards always roll over and present the fin before the rider gets clear. Is that a problem?
I imagine the big, sturdy fin of a race board, has got to share certain qualities with a Guillotine.
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Gives new meaning to "Stoney's BIG adventure" I may have to make a sequel ;D ;D
Looks like you had a blast!
Question:
One thing I noticed in all the "Carnage" videos from BOP, it seems like the narrow boards always roll over and present the fin before the rider gets clear. Is that a problem?
I imagine the big, sturdy fin of a race board, has got to share certain qualities with a Guillotine.
Something to think about before switching to an aluminum fin.
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It was fun....once I get her fixed up and do a new pad I'll actually be able to surf her and get back on the tail. I also need to stop the hopping around....I've been getting into a bad habit doing that instead of walking.
I'll have to get some vids from a couple of spots that make this kind of ride shine. I did a surprise surf session with the CCBC crew at one of them. What was supposed to be distance training paddle for the 2011 crossing quickly turned into a surf session when we found waves. It actually turned into both a great surf session and a great training session. A conservative guesstimate using google maps was rides around 1500'. Fun, fun ride, then a long sprint back for another. I modified this image a bit to not make it obvious but there is actually a landmark to go by that nails where it was breaking...it was really starting just to the north and outside that boat entering the channel on the right.
On the carnage...I think a lot of what you see is the nose getting stuffed and the tail kicking up and out and then thrown sideways. Definitely happened a lot and was pretty freaky looking in the crowds of the BOP. I did have the wrong fin in it during the vid. I had Larry's Gladiator which could def be a guillotine. The board surfs much better with the Chill in it.
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This is what happened to me when I took a 14'DW board out in 6' surf. What you can't see is the section setting up 50 yds down the line. Tried to high line it, leaned in, stuck the blade in the wave. My body turned but not the board.
Just a little rocker tho and it'd be good.
With a little more effort you could have run over the back of that wave.
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Hi all, In between DW's I've been having fun taking the SIC14V2 into the Miami beachbreak surf/mush but was wondering if changing fins would improve the board's maneuverability ("loosen up the back some"). Specifically, would swapping out the stock weedless (http://www.sicmaui.com/fins) for the attached fin have the desired effect? If so, why not use it all the time? Thanks in advance.
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I went for a swim with part of a coiled leash still attached to my ankle, holding my hat, throwing my paddle, and getting dragged down by my hip mounted water pack. Good thing I only had a 100 yds or so to swim.
Don't have a raceboard, but I did break a leash in good size surf. I was lucky a nice guy grabbed my board and met me on the way in doing the paddle throw/swim. It only occurred to me later that I could have tied the paddle to the remnant of the leash and probably made much better progress with both hands free. I'll try it next time.
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Not sure if it is a race board, but this is pretty awesome (...the location, not the pirouette) from 2010..
https://youtu.be/Yswfh8wuIlA
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We had another fun surfing sessions on raceboards on Wednesday, here is the video:
https://youtu.be/WySLwssClFM
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Nice session Robert. You've got a great Ohana there.
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Surfing a raceboard has been one of my "secret " vices here in NJ I don't have the conditions or weather in the vids (Which are WAY cool) but every wave (Tiny as they maybe) I end up falling off the board laughing that "A guy as BIG as me can ride a wave this small for this long" AMAZING
JimK
www.extremewindsurfing.com
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Another great video Robert, that looks like so much fun!
Jimmy, Jimmy.... where? Gotta be the inlet by your parents house or the one in AC????
I'll come do that with you if you have a DW board :)
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Just got a new 12'6 Focus Bluefin and the thing kicks ass in small surf so fun, barrels down the line. The down side is I never do any flat water training anymore and I fear this will cost me in races.
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Next time Brown's Bank is working I'll call Marta. That 12-6 will be a magic carpet out there. Give you an excuse to come down and visit your folks.... :)
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Creek
I got boards even a Naish Glide 14Ft So you won't be missing your "Girly" board
Come on down DUDE
JimK
www.extremewindsurfing.com
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Here is another video from last Wednesday, check out the collision with a OC1 and my friend Jeff Chang at 3:00
https://youtu.be/GCMGo8RK0Co
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Awesome Robert. That crash looked like you were lucky nobody got whacked.
I was so wishing I had brought my 14 with me last Wed...there were some swells that I could have had WAY outside that would have been fun. After my DW fail a couple weeks ago I'm going to relegate my Vec to surfing. Nothing else feels so much like flying on a wave like that.
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I went for a swim with part of a coiled leash still attached to my ankle, holding my hat, throwing my paddle, and getting dragged down by my hip mounted water pack. Good thing I only had a 100 yds or so to swim.
Don't have a raceboard, but I did break a leash in good size surf. I was lucky a nice guy grabbed my board and met me on the way in doing the paddle throw/swim. It only occurred to me later that I could have tied the paddle to the remnant of the leash and probably made much better progress with both hands free. I'll try it next time.
Hook it in the key loop of your boardshorts, or tie it to the lace (not as good). Or just swim for the board and then knee paddle back to get your paddle. I swam for miles once with my paddle stuffed in my shorts and rash guard, tied in place with the boardshorts lace, blade against my chest. It provides a little float.
You can also drink the water out of that hip-mounted camelback, blow it up, and move it to your belly. Keeps your legs up. Adds drag, but don't ditch it, if things start going south you can move it to your chest like a PFD.
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Here is another video from last Wednesday, check out the collision with a OC1 and my friend Jeff Chang at 3:00
https://youtu.be/GCMGo8RK0Co
We recently had our google account hacked and the hacker deleted all our most recent youtube videos. I had to re-load the videos to youtube and am now re-posting the deleted videos.
https://youtu.be/TK5DkYw1hKI
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I'm reviving this old thread with a great new video by our talented Aussie team rider Skyla Rayner.
https://youtu.be/f4gUIDr8yyQ
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Wow! Amazing conditions at that beautiful spot.
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I'm reviving this old thread with a great new video by our talented Aussie team rider Skyla Rayner.
https://youtu.be/f4gUIDr8yyQ
What a perfect wave for those boards. Longest ride = 46 seconds.
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I'm reviving this old thread with a great new video by our talented Aussie team rider Skyla Rayner.
https://youtu.be/f4gUIDr8yyQ
What a perfect wave for those boards. Longest ride = 46 seconds.
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The people in the video are far more talented than me and this comment is absolutely not meant to denigrate them at all, but what I find most amazing in that video is the waves and the water between them. The perfect sized rollers with calm water between them is straight out of my fantasy of learning to surf my new battleship. Of course, if I happen to see that i will find out out that the talent they have is pretty darn important also. ;D
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I think those Bump Riders deserve some of the credit. Looking at the design, I'll bet they surf better than just about anything else in that length range.
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I think those Bump Riders deserve some of the credit. Looking at the design, I'll bet they surf better than just about anything else in that length range.
I stuck aside a link to a video to give me some hope of maybe trying this some time. Surfing on a big Glide. He is a lot busier to make it happen and it doesn't always work out as planned, but he does pretty well in the conditions he has.
https://vimeo.com/86392008?fbclid=IwAR1kz1Hg8D3bDO1XChE3ogxV72qwln27kF3zoModPiXfoJPlA1rpKEYAwaM
EDIT - The big dream for me is to be fishing 3 miles off shore with a loaded up board, decide to head in, catch a 2' roller and ride it all the way to the beach. Sitting in a low slung beach chair on the pad eating grapes while this happens is an optional feature of the dream...
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I love it!
A few videos of me surfing with the SIC RS, Bullet 14 and even with the Bullet 17'4!
https://vimeo.com/266886205
https://vimeo.com/268824006
https://vimeo.com/208719728
https://www.facebook.com/sicmauiportugal/videos/748139338650684/
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surfing race board is fun indeed.
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Love this stuff.
Robert's video does has a great vantage point to see just how far back you need be, to do smooth turns on a 14 'r.
Here's a vid I made this summer, loving my 14!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPQqHC-m6zw
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I think those Bump Riders deserve some of the credit. Looking at the design, I'll bet they surf better than just about anything else in that length range.
I stuck aside a link to a video to give me some hope of maybe trying this some time. Surfing on a big Glide. He is a lot busier to make it happen and it doesn't always work out as planned, but he does pretty well in the conditions he has.
https://vimeo.com/86392008?fbclid=IwAR1kz1Hg8D3bDO1XChE3ogxV72qwln27kF3zoModPiXfoJPlA1rpKEYAwaM
That's a really old Glide. The video is five years old. The shape has changed a lot since then.
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Love this stuff.
Robert's video does has a great vantage point to see just how far back you need be, to do smooth turns on a 14 'r.
Here's a vid I made this summer, loving my 14!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPQqHC-m6zw
Yep, that's about it, on day's like that around here it's..."Foils or Fourteens". ;) ;D
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I wonder if a shoal might be a good place to try to learn this. It seems like you could get out where the waves peter out and start working your way toward the shallower part of the cove until you got the right sized ones. This is assuming there aren't big rollers coming through.
I am talking about situations like the one described about halfway down in the article below in the section titled Surf 2 miles off shore. I am likely to be down there around New Years. I will have to see about borrowing or buying a better wet suit if I do this.
https://www.supconnect.com/travel/paddle-boarding-amelia-island-florida
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It all depends on the wave. Shoals can have steep shallow barrels just like on shore.
You definitely want to get as far away from other surfers as possible. Big boards are more difficult to control and can be dangerous. I only surf my 12'6 when no one is out.
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It all depends on the wave. Shoals can have steep shallow barrels just like on shore.
You definitely want to get as far away from other surfers as possible. Big boards are more difficult to control and can be dangerous. I only surf my 12'6 when no one is out.
I was hoping that maybe with different shaped bottom at different depths there would be enough variance to find a spot to learn and with the shoals I have access to, they are big enough and have some waves far enough out that avoiding others wouldn't be a problem.
I don't plan to make a habit of it but I think it would be fun to try. Besides, I know one of these days I will be paddling along loaded with gear and have a wave come along at just the right angle and speed that I will suddenly find myself surfing. I would like to have at least a little experience with handling the big board when that happens. Plus there is that ridiculous dream of coming in from a couple of miles out without having to paddle. ;D ::)
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The shoals might have just the wave you're looking for. Definitely check it out. 8)
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Reviving this thread with a new video:
https://youtu.be/3pmGrN1pEKM
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Looked like fun, so I gave it a go on my 12'6" this AM. Here in FL we're not having the surf you have, more like thigh to knee high, but it was clean with lite offshore on the incoming tide. Need to control my surfer urge to get on rail and turn as soon as I catch a wave, Gotta stick to just heading pretty much straight in on this board. Caught a few, got wet, great way to start the day!
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Surfing race boards is a blast as long as you don't expect to do cutbacks. Headmount and I spent a lot of mornings surfing our 17' Bullets, to the occasional irritation of people trying to surf double-over-ankle waves on conventional beginner sufboards. Really anything in the 12+ region is a lot of fun in baby waves, including my challenging-for-me 12'2" Ku Nalu. One of the few boards I'll never sell.
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Yes, I find that I often have more fun surfing a 14' race board than on a high-performance short surf SUP, especially in mushy surf.