Days like this you only catch a few..
First paddle out I was denied
Made it out the second try..
11 Second interval and strong North-South Drift makes it a slog
Nice shot Ralph.
I surfed yesterday morning at Church. The only SUP out. Head high to OH and like you said, high frequency. Harder to get out for sure. Sometimes there was a channel I could paddle out through standing up, but prone paddled most of the time. Last closeout I got stuck inside. They seemed like endless sets. It was starting to get crowded and I had got my share. I just let the waves wash me to the shore. Good bomb drops. Cold mornings (42 deg and windy)..... by our SoCal standards ::)
I got my ass handed to me at del Mar Rivermouth. I couldn't get out with the foil, not even close. Went back and got the SUP--denied. I kept at it for about an hour and came in exhausted.
Nice one Ralph! Really had some juice out there, pitching.
Those are the days where hours of work yield moments of joy.
Ones to remember.
My local has the same whimsical nature, sometimes denying entry.
So tell me, once you are safely outside, is the exit at the end of the session also dicey?
This is a beach break so it's not typically dicey to exit. Although, after some big swells there can be a trough close to the sand and the waves are breaking overhead right on the sand. That gets a little sketch, waist leash helps so you don't get your leg pulled out from under you if you're walking in and you're board gets pulled