Surprise, surprise.... the wind took a sudden turn offshore and I raced to the beach to find some dredging waves.
The 2 shortboarders left as I was paddling out.... solo session!
It had some size and juice, as it was sucking up into some pretty shallow water.
The GoPro shrinks the waves ... but it was well overhead and FAST.
I got a few zippy waves.... the last one, seemed like it was going to be an easy fly away kick out.... didn't quite work out ;D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VV97n2ze6R8
Creek,
Nice close out shots. Still looked fun..... I'm going to have to put a GoPro mount on my board.
I trunk'd it yesterday. The super warm and dry Santa Ana winds where blowing hard offshore here. I bailed on a close-out, and by the time I had paddled back out I was crispy dry. It was 92 deg. at 6:30 pm. The water is in the low 60's.
Way to not rub it in TallDude ;)
I trunk'd it yesterday too and the dunkings were such a nice relief from that hot air.
Some nice chunky sections. Good touch on the 'shoot the board out
of danger'. Love those solo sessions, don't have to be great to have
fun.
Thanks Kayadogg and TallDude for that trunks rub, hey at least we are down to a 4/3 and occasionally the 3/2 here in New England.
Great morning down in Newport as well, glassy chest to head high waves, long lefts and rights, I was the solo SUP out til around 9am. I was shocked not to see MrBig or Stoneaxe out early this morning.
Creek, surprised you didn't use the Raw.
Hey PDLSFR,
I still wore a rash guard.
My buddy who grew up in Newport, gave me a tour of all the breaks around the castle peninsula. We walked the trail end to end. He said he used to sit in his car, in his wetsuit, with the car running and heater blasting a some break there. When he saw a set coming, he would charge the water. After a few waves, run back to his car. etc. etc.
Now he lives in Haleiwa, HI. ;D
I'll wear a rash guard no matter what the temp, as much coverage and sun block as it takes.
Once in a rere while, I will go bare legged "knees down" just to let them get some sun.
My elderly neighbors who passed away in Santa Cruz last year had a son who died at 49 from malignant melanoma. He was a competitive surfer who surfed all over the world and just wore board shorts unless he had to wear a wet suit.
His Mom told me when she saw me going out "Always cover up and wear some kind of suit." They all suffered terribly from his ordeal, he was a wonderful guy I guess and his illnes was prolonged.
On the other hand, I see some hoary, well tanned old dudes out there who just seem to go out when they can wear board shorts and they seem to have been doing it forever, luck of the draw.
I have a number friends and neighbors who have succumb to melanoma. It's living our live in the sun, and knowing the danger is real. I've been in the sun a lot, but not a sun worshiper. I wear a rash guard 95% of the time. I also wear sunblock everyday, beach or not. Just sitting on the freeway, with the sun beating on you through the windows is dangerous. Always wear sunblock, and have your dermatologist look you over every 6 months or so. There is a topical chemotherapy called ' Efudex' that when applied shows potential developing cancerous areas. You apply it over your entire arms, for example. Then after about four days, little red blotches will show up. You then continue to apply it on just those areas for another week and a half, or so. It burns like a mother near the end of the treatment. After the 'now burned in sores' heal, your clear. http://www.rxlist.com/efudex-drug/indications-dosage.htm
Sorry to hijack your session Creek ::)
Smackdown indeed. Or perhaps "Clothes-lined". I bet you were surprised. Nice vid, though. Thanks for sharing.
We not only need our heads on a swivel for the men in grey suits, but also fast tomahawking waves.
A wise man once said, "Point your head in the direction you want to go, and your body will follow".
PDL... my RAW went to NH today for a session.... reminded me why I don't take it out in a full suit.... surfed great... but wore me out. The Mana is so much easier in full gear.
And sometimes....your body goes where the wave wants it to go ;)
If it's any consolation... I was too warm in my full suit today... and I was totally protected from the sun ;D
Yep, pretty much the way you described it ;D
Evening session @ Long Sands had some plus sets coming through last PM....Was Sweet! So was this AM....will catch you next time
Quote from: southwesterly on May 02, 2014, 05:52:12 PM
A wise man once said, "Point your head in the direction you want to go, and your body will follow".
Heard from that same wise man that episodes like this "build character"
PDLSFR - Surfed Friday and Saturday. Saved gas, right here on CC! See you soon in the tropical paradise of RI! But it sounds like you scored on Thursday you dog you!
Nice! Those waves look neither small nor slow. It does look cold though. I went out yesterday in Rhody and my gopro made the waist high waves look a bit bigger and I dressed to make it look warmer than it was. Actually it was really nice and I was fine in my 3/2. I did still have the 7mm booties though ;)