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Reseating leash plug

Started by Stew, April 07, 2024, 01:36:28 AM

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Stew

Morning!

I've just had the leash plug rip out of my 10' SUP. I'm looking to reset it but need some advice please.



I've made a couple of hollow wood boards before so have resin and fibreglass plus a bit of experience.

This board is eps and I think I need to cut a new piece out to drill a fresh hole for the plug as it seems too spacious in there to just reglue.



I'm in the uk and trying to find a small piece of suitable grade eps or other foam seems impossible. I have no local shapers else I would ask if they could spare an off cut.

I'm wondering about cutting a block of balsa and fitting that then drilling a hole in that for the plug. All glued and glasses in and over.

Do you think that's a suitable plan?

I've seen about gap filling using expanding foam but as this takes such a pounding I figure solid is better!

sflinux

#1
I've had a dual set of plugs get pulled out of a 11'6" Jeff Clark Mavericks SUP gun.  I replaced with standard FCS leash plugs.  I used epoxy with a thickener.  Don't use q-cell,  you wan't to use something stronger like milled fibers.  I fiberglass over the top for strength.
The vent plug in my Hobie RAW CMP cracked and started leaking.  I replaced it with a vented leash plug from Greenlightsurfsupply. 
https://greenlightsurfsupply.com/products/surfboard-vented-leash-plug-v314?_pos=1&_sid=633d54269&_ss=r
The kit came with 2 part epoxy (the kind in a tube where you rip a piece off and rub together like Playdoh to mix) that you form a ring around the bottom of the hole of the board to seal the vent, then epoxy and milled fibers to seal around the perimeter of the plug.

If there is a lot of play in the plug, I would reinforce the hole.  For example you can put a sheet (or two) of fiberglass around the plug  I would something like milled fibers & epoxy under the plug to strengthen the foam underneath. Then I would tape over the hole, and do another 2 layers of fiberglass over the plug.  I would also glass over the cracked areas of the wood on the board.  You may want to consider adding a second leash plug to ease some of the load.

The balsa idea should work but sounds like it would be more involved (i.e. take longer). 
I recently had to repair a fin box that was damaged and sunk into the board.  The foam compressed.  I ripped the box out and reused it.  I had to rebuild the foam.  I used gorilla glue mixed with a drop of water and cover the finbox with clear packing tape (so it won't stick) and insert to make a mold.  Then I removed the finbox (still has packing tape) again and used epoxy and filler (i.e. milled fibers), toe strengthen the gorilla glue (give it a hard shell).  Then I removed the tape off the fin box and added epoxy and filer and fiberglass cloth underneath to reinforce.  Then I taped the holes for the fins and glassed over the top of the fin box.  Depending on how much play you have you could skip the gorilla glue step.
Quiver Shaped by: Joe Blair, Blane Chambers, Jimmy Lewis, Kirk McGinty, and Bob Pearson.
Me: 200#, 6'2"

Stew

Thanks.

Definite food for thought.

I actually think that the balsa idea could end up being simpler - my concern with other ideas is making sure the hole is fully filled. I'm pondering cutting a round balsa plug which would essentially just make a massive leash plug.

The cracked deck could just be removed with balsa rather than trying to patch it.

Whichever method I go for, I am concerned about strength. Mostly because I don't want it to pop out and cut short a session again. I had to borrow a board from friends for the last two sessions last week but the next time I'm away, I have no spare options so will be taking resin and fibreglass with me!!