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Jumbo Foil Mount Boxes

Started by finbox, October 19, 2021, 06:55:44 PM

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PonoBill

In the middle is a great idea for 10" boxes since it means if your base gets loose and slides around it can't come out, the T-nuts never get close to the exit hole as long as the bolts are attached. With entry at an end the rear (or front) t-nuts can come out and then your foil breaks out of the boxes. Hasn't happened to me but I've seen the carnage.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

JohnnyTsunami

These guys do wood stringers for each box, and then put carbon in the foam, followed by the palstic boxes, and carbon on top - so they sandwich the  boxes in carbon fiber - maybe this could work with a 1-2" divinycell block that doesn't go all the way through?


https://youtu.be/V2rT433LqDA?t=110

finbox

I think the stringers are divinycell & carbon, not wood. I like how the boxes are captured in the laminations

Vancouver_foiler

Quote from: blackeye on December 21, 2021, 05:41:34 PM
Roberts Composites posted this simple rear entry finbox



He didn't reply with answers to some  good questions though.

I've got a 4'11 Roberts with those tracks. Pretty slick setup.

surfcowboy

2 things. I drilled 1mm holes or bumps in my boxes or cut grooves with a Dremel. Not enough to weaken them but enough to give some grip. Maybe 1mm deep. I do this to Chinooks too.

Improvise and find the easiest way, right?

As to the stringers, if you look up my first prone board I did stringers out of 1" (1-1/4"?) Trim pieces. Perfectly milled and straight. Worked great, light, cheap, simple.

Use the long boxes, score them up a bit, bag the carbon on them, add stringers if you are really paranoid. It'll all work andbe better than th first boards we all rode that had little to no reinforcement. 😉