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Dawn Patrol at Doheny

Started by TallDude, August 30, 2020, 06:15:08 PM

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TallDude

Not much surf this past few days, but it's still been fun. Two days before, the water temp was 76 deg, Air temp 80 deg. So I go trunk'n it, and both the water and air temp had dropped 10 degrees. So it was a brisk session. Felt good. Here's a little recap.



It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

justsomeguy

Thanks for sharing the video! ... LOL, I lived in SoCal for a long time and I think I can count the number of times I actually bare trunk'd it on two hands. Usually I was in a s/s spring suit at a minimum.
Fanatic Allwave LTD 9'4"x33"x173L
NSP Carolina 14'x25.75"x299L
+ a few prone surfboards nobody here cares about :)

surfinJ

Clean little zippers and summer styling in your shorts.
Thanks for taking us along.

OkiWild


APPST_Paddle

Nice vid, I think it's roughly a year since I was there. Get to see ya getting out. Ha, foiling has taken my brain over so.......I think I've logged maybe 2 days normal SUP surfing in the last 3 months.
7'6" JL Super Frank Lean
8'2" JL SuperTech 
10'1" JL Black and Blue
14' BIC WS Tracer
6'5" JL Flying-V/GoFoil Maliko 200
Kenalu Ho'oloa 95, Werner Rip Stick 79

supthecreek

Thanks for the vid TD... I am very happy to see more SUP surf vids hitting the Zone lately!
Doheny looks like a perfect SUP break.

I was paying particular attention to how well you kept your back foot on the stomper... I am trying to train myself to do that.
I have been a "side bites" surfer for so long, that it is hard to create new habits... thanks for spurring me backwards!  :)

TallDude

Quote from: justsomeguy on August 30, 2020, 07:15:32 PM
Thanks for sharing the video! ... LOL, I lived in SoCal for a long time and I think I can count the number of times I actually bare trunk'd it on two hands. Usually I was in a s/s spring suit at a minimum.
Spring suit at a minimum next time.
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

TallDude

Quote from: surfinJ on August 30, 2020, 11:37:53 PM
Clean little zippers and summer styling in your shorts.
Thanks for taking us along.
Little zippers to the sand bar. One last lip smack and you get sand in your crack.
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

TallDude

Quote from: OkiWild on August 31, 2020, 03:29:31 AM
Sweet! Thanks for sharing.
You've sharing a lot, I have to catch up.
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

TallDude

Quote from: APPST_Paddle on August 31, 2020, 04:53:54 AM
Nice vid, I think it's roughly a year since I was there. Get to see ya getting out. Ha, foiling has taken my brain over so.......I think I've logged maybe 2 days normal SUP surfing in the last 3 months.
Come on back to SanO and bring your foil. You'll have lots of company even if the waves are crappy.
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

TallDude

Quote from: supthecreek on August 31, 2020, 08:47:00 AM
Thanks for the vid TD... I am very happy to see more SUP surf vids hitting the Zone lately!
Doheny looks like a perfect SUP break.

I was paying particular attention to how well you kept your back foot on the stomper... I am trying to train myself to do that.
I have been a "side bites" surfer for so long, that it is hard to create new habits... thanks for spurring me backwards!  :)
What's funny about the stomper is I tore the original one off. I'm not sure when it happened but I was loading my board on the car and noticed the whole wedge /kicker was gone. I went to Infinity's shop and they have racks of stompers. I found one that matched the width and color of the old one. I wasn't replacing the whole stomp pad, just the kicker. The new one sticks up a lot higher. At first I was thinking that's a big kicker, but now I really like how obvious it when I slide my foot back. Gives me more confidence getting my foot on the tail. 
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

Tom

Quote from: supthecreek on August 31, 2020, 08:47:00 AM
Thanks for the vid TD... I am very happy to see more SUP surf vids hitting the Zone lately!
Doheny looks like a perfect SUP break.

I was paying particular attention to how well you kept your back foot on the stomper... I am trying to train myself to do that.
I have been a "side bites" surfer for so long, that it is hard to create new habits... thanks for spurring me backwards!  :)

Creek, I'm trying to train myself to stay on the tail of the board like you do so well.

APPST_Paddle

Quote from: TallDude on August 31, 2020, 10:22:27 AM
Quote from: APPST_Paddle on August 31, 2020, 04:53:54 AM
Nice vid, I think it's roughly a year since I was there. Get to see ya getting out. Ha, foiling has taken my brain over so.......I think I've logged maybe 2 days normal SUP surfing in the last 3 months.
Come on back to SanO and bring your foil. You'll have lots of company even if the waves are crappy.

I can only imagine how long rides are out there, we are pretty blessed when it comes to foiling with some nice gradual sandbars on inlets that line up perfect, 1000' waves are the norm, Ride one, walk back.
7'6" JL Super Frank Lean
8'2" JL SuperTech 
10'1" JL Black and Blue
14' BIC WS Tracer
6'5" JL Flying-V/GoFoil Maliko 200
Kenalu Ho'oloa 95, Werner Rip Stick 79

surfercook

#13
Nice little grey glassies, TD. Pretty thick and frothy pack out there too! I liked when you took off in the thick of em! They were probably like "Watch out, here comes that tall dude"!
Now I remember why I did a slide show instead of paddle mount video. I never liked all that back and forth back and forth when you're paddling! Nopticed you never did the selfie stick pov though. That's my favorite part about the p/m pov! Glad you got to trunk it. We're definitely lucky here in NJ. The water warms up to around 70F all summer and usually gets even warmer.

One could go into a mall in Kansas and ask a teenager "What is a surfer looking for?, and the answer will always be, "The perfect wave"
9'11" PSH Hull Ripper-145 ltr    
9'3" PSH  Hull Ripper- 130ltr 
8'0" Corevac Assassin -127 ltr   
Paddles- Carbonerro PRO SERIES 85 & Riviera Camo at 70"