Author Topic: Diy foil nz  (Read 4427 times)

surfcowboy

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #15 on: July 05, 2018, 06:09:21 AM »
These are great man. I'd definitely still glass the wings. Stresses are higher than you realize in certain areas. Don't ask me how I know. lol

But the cuts are so clean. Great to see those perfect lines laid out in the laminated layers.

kiwi

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #16 on: July 05, 2018, 01:15:16 PM »
That is looking great Kiwi.

I like how even the pattern between wood and glue came out in the plywood.

For one-side flat surfboard fins I usually try to design with a minimum trailing edge thickness of .03"[0.8mm] and/or laminate cloth and resin to the flat side before machining. These two thing help keep the splintering to a minimum. I also just use small tabs to keep the part attached to the stock, like .250"[6.5mm] or so wide and .125" [3.2mm] thick.

Thanks jrandy
Yeah I think I'll include a trailing edge thickness next time because the splintering is pretty annoying.

These are great man. I'd definitely still glass the wings. Stresses are higher than you realize in certain areas. Don't ask me how I know. lol

But the cuts are so clean. Great to see those perfect lines laid out in the laminated layers.

Cheers surfcowboy
Yea I'm definitely still glassing the wings, the strength through the mid section is great but the last 50mm of the tips gets pretty flimsy. Will just glass the entire thing for the guaranteed extra strength.

surfcowboy

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #17 on: July 05, 2018, 04:51:21 PM »
I might need some help with beefing up a trailing edge. SUPUK sort of rushed though that part at the end of his wing making Fusion360 video and I'm not 100% clear how to edit the plane he's talking about without messing up.

You guys are making me have to talk myself out of building a CNC. Lol

kiwi

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #18 on: July 12, 2018, 01:09:17 AM »
Last week I cnc'ed the main foil with the same technique and set a 4mm plate into it for the countersink m5s.
Dad showed me how to glass the wings so they've now got a layer of 300gm biax and been bogged up. Gotta sand them all down now.
I've got access to the cnc at work (just a holiday job at a mostly polystyrene cnc place, theyve got a 5 axis tho  ;D ) and there is a whole lot of pvc foam laying round so I'm going to dig through it and find some 60kg stuff to do the plate mount cassette for the board.

Still gotta glue the 3 parts of the fuz together and get everything mounted together.

surfcowboy

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #19 on: July 12, 2018, 07:40:15 PM »
Man, so I clean and so fast.

This thing looks awesome.

kiwi

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #20 on: July 27, 2018, 10:00:50 PM »
Fuz all glued up, fits nicely with mast. Made quite a bit of progress this weekend so ill post some more up later.

surfcowboy

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #21 on: July 27, 2018, 10:06:04 PM »
Coming along. I got out in the garage and did a little myself tonight.

Keep it up man.

kiwi

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #22 on: July 27, 2018, 10:19:44 PM »
Thanks surfcowboy for all the support :)

I bought one of those foilmount tuttle to plate adapter and some 10" longboard rails, yes I know they're no the glass filled plastic that chinook sells but theyll work for now this is just an experiment. I epoxied the rails into the box I made at work and then cut the hole in the board for it, the board is a little 5'3" we use for scurfing. It's pretty small and will be hopeless in the surf but I'm planning on building a board for prone foiling anyways.

I attached the wings to the fuz after I finished sanding them smooth. I used M5 helicoils to with stainless bolts to mount them and I hope this will be enough to hold them on  :-\

Need to pot the tuttle head with the new tuttle adapter, does anyone know the best mold release between epoxy and aluminium, also the adapter has machining ridges on the radiuses and isn't perfectly smooth so im not sure how molding the tuttle head will go.

PonoBill

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #23 on: July 27, 2018, 11:07:19 PM »
Need to pot the tuttle head with the new tuttle adapter, does anyone know the best mold release between epoxy and aluminium, also the adapter has machining ridges on the radiuses and isn't perfectly smooth so im not sure how molding the tuttle head will go.

I use carnauba wax. Mostly because it's easy to get and it works. 100% carnauba is best. Used to be Eagle One had 100 percent in cans. the company was founded by my late best friend so I have a lot of the stuff around. I wax the mold or plug, let it haze, polish, then repeat three times.
Ponohouse is for sale: http://www.ponohouse.com
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

sharksupper

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #24 on: July 28, 2018, 12:16:51 AM »
I've been using "Meguiars Mold Release #8" a lot with great results.  I can't say I've used it on aluminum specifically though, but I don't think it would matter too much.  However, I think that looks like the FoilMount CNC adapter that you're going to use as a mould, just like the one I bought from them too (but didn't use as a mould).  Feel carefully on the front and rear surfaces on the inside of the tuttle mount and you'll feel some machining steps in there.  Those may make it harder to release than a completely smooth surface like I've been working with.  You might want to extra wax up those micro steps so your epoxy doesn't get a hold in them.

I attached a pic of the steps...

(crap, I just noticed you were already aware of the steps, sigh...)
« Last Edit: July 28, 2018, 12:24:23 AM by sharksupper »

kiwi

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #25 on: July 28, 2018, 01:43:06 PM »
Need to pot the tuttle head with the new tuttle adapter, does anyone know the best mold release between epoxy and aluminium, also the adapter has machining ridges on the radiuses and isn't perfectly smooth so im not sure how molding the tuttle head will go.

I use carnauba wax. Mostly because it's easy to get and it works. 100% carnauba is best. Used to be Eagle One had 100 percent in cans. the company was founded by my late best friend so I have a lot of the stuff around. I wax the mold or plug, let it haze, polish, then repeat three times.

Thanks pono

I've been using "Meguiars Mold Release #8" a lot with great results.  I can't say I've used it on aluminum specifically though, but I don't think it would matter too much.  However, I think that looks like the FoilMount CNC adapter that you're going to use as a mould, just like the one I bought from them too (but didn't use as a mould).  Feel carefully on the front and rear surfaces on the inside of the tuttle mount and you'll feel some machining steps in there.  Those may make it harder to release than a completely smooth surface like I've been working with.  You might want to extra wax up those micro steps so your epoxy doesn't get a hold in them.

I attached a pic of the steps...

(crap, I just noticed you were already aware of the steps, sigh...)

haha thanks sharksupper
yeah i've gotta somehow smooth those steps to stop the epoxy grabbing, I think If I hit the thing hard enough it would pop off anyway but not gonna risk it

PonoBill

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #26 on: July 28, 2018, 02:23:18 PM »
You could try a coat of hard beeswax to fill the steps, and then carnauba over it. Beeswax is sticky because it's fairly soft, carnauba is hard and relatively high temp so it polishes to a flat surface instead of rippling.
Ponohouse is for sale: http://www.ponohouse.com
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

jrandy

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #27 on: July 29, 2018, 05:55:26 AM »
I like to use Partall/Coverall purple PVA two or three coats on raw wooden molds and then a couple coats of Partall/Coverall #2 green paste wax. I destroyed a couple plywood molds trying 'home remedy' stuff like vegetable shortening and cheap car wax.
http://pushheretosavealife.com/
Be safe, have fun. -J

PonoBill

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #28 on: July 29, 2018, 08:27:57 AM »
If you're going to eventually want to make more Tuttle heads you might want to rethink your mold idea. A two-piece mold would work better and would let you add detail, like the transition from head to mast. I also wonder why you want a Tuttle at all since you've set up your board for a plate. Why not just add a plate to your mast to start with?

If you're just going to make the basic Tuttle shape of your mast conform to the converter, then maybe don't use any mold release at all. With those machining steps and a single piece mold, there's a good chance it won't come out anyway. Maybe just shim it straight, fill it with bogged epoxy and done.
« Last Edit: July 29, 2018, 08:35:45 AM by PonoBill »
Ponohouse is for sale: http://www.ponohouse.com
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

kiwi

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Re: Diy foil nz
« Reply #29 on: July 29, 2018, 01:45:16 PM »
If you're going to eventually want to make more Tuttle heads you might want to rethink your mold idea. A two-piece mold would work better and would let you add detail, like the transition from head to mast. I also wonder why you want a Tuttle at all since you've set up your board for a plate. Why not just add a plate to your mast to start with?

If you're just going to make the basic Tuttle shape of your mast conform to the converter, then maybe don't use any mold release at all. With those machining steps and a single piece mold, there's a good chance it won't come out anyway. Maybe just shim it straight, fill it with bogged epoxy and done.

The reason I want to have the tuttle head and not just plate is because my friend has a board with a tuttle and we want to try my foil in that.

I think I might machine up a split mold so I can add the transition between tuttle and mast and make the tuttle marginally oversized so I can sand it down.
Thanks Pono

 


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