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Anybody surf today?

Started by Board Stiff, January 24, 2016, 06:04:31 PM

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Board Stiff

I drove up to Long Sands Beach in York, but it was a huge mess. Giant closeouts way outside, big waves undulating on the horizon, and crazy reflected waves and rip currents moving in every direction closer to shore. I watched a couple proners try to paddle out and saw them moving backwards with the currents while paddling full speed between waves. Went home and watched the debacle of a Patriots game instead.  :'(

Did anyone find a more manageable spot or brave the churning whitewater to surf the big swells today?

kayadogg

I surfed a spot in Rhode Island that was about a foot overhead, clean with light off-shores and about 4 people out. I was the only stand up. Really fun session. It paid to miss the first half of the Pats game  ;D

headmount

Took someone out with 14s for just a novice paddle tune up inside the reef.  She went in and decided she was done.  Looked out and forerunners of tomorrow's monster swell were starting to arrive.  Just a few guys out so I strolled out and grabbed some on my 14.  Pretty fun.  Usually these swells pop up super huge overnight and almost everything is out of control here on Maui.  It's been all or nothing around here.  But wind is light so we got that going for us.