Summer Swells

[kneecap]

It was way better than it was supposed to be yesterday.  We did a family day at Sano and it stayed pretty glassy and the waves were way fun.

Unfortunately I've been having back spasms the last week or so but felt obligated to surf four times since it was my birthday.  So I knocked back a flexeril and a tramadol and played with the new GoPro goodies the kids got me.

We stayed down until way dark and I think even with the high tide it was amazing right before dark.

A Dogpatch Kind of Birthday

[supthecreek]

Happy Birthday kneecap!!! Nice session to celebrate the day.

I'm assuming that was a TimSUP?

It was fun to watch the tail through the turns... and to watch you switch your foot from side to side on the wider tail to get it on a rail. Great camera angle for that.

Good show of speed as you link up a few tight turns on a very soft shoulder... it really gave me a good feel for what a simSUP surfs like.... or am I totally wrong and that is a Static

[kneecap]

Thanks Creek!

You're right that is the Timsup, aka f---ing Retro, though mine is a few inches longer than Tim's MIA model.  I'm stoked you caught all the footwork since that's what I noticed most when i looked at the video.  I don't realize I'm doing it anymore it just happens when I surf.  All of that movement is what keeps the board from sliding on me, even it larger surf.

That day was pretty typical of what Dogpatch does most of the time, which is just such a soft rolly wave.  The Simmons boards just eat that stuff up as they produce so much speed out of nothing.  I swear I almost never have to pump that board, just bottom turn top turn repeat.  And the harder I push the faster it goes.  You gotta get on one, you'll be amazed!

[JeanG]

Awesome video.

[Cardiff Sweeper]

^
Good times, kneecap.  It was pretty epic...a magical day.

Two sessions on the Sup.
Two sessions on the shortboard.


This is Tim. He's 51, and he gets more waves on his 6'8" Pintail than anyone at the spot.  His cutback is the same as when he was 16.  And up until recently, his diet consisted of a 12-pack of Coors Light a day after work and surf. The drinking is no more, but he still smokes menthols like a freight train. A true wonder of the world.

[AM9K]

Kneecap - Cool video. The board looks loose rail to rail, but I guess it could be the muscle relaxers

[Cardiff Sweeper]

Paddlefest at the reef.

[Cardiff Sweeper]

It's fun.  Go surf!

[sup_surf_giant]

Had a BLAST yesterday on my big board. Recovering from my back injury and the high tide indicated I should bring length.

Turns out it was a GREAT idea as I was getting all the waves that the others couldn't catch. On a carousel of waves for an hour and a half.

Been sitting on ice ever since but it was totally worth it. Summer swells!

[Cardiff Sweeper]

Local OC reports are showing a water temp drop down to as low as 61*F at some spots. Eek!

[OCsurf]

I paddle surfed at Bolsa Chica yesterday and the water was a lot cooler that it had been over the weekend.

[Old School 213]

No youtube behind the firewall...... /sadness. Just reading "summer swells" makes me feel like my office walls are here to keep me in.

Proned in the South bay over the weekend, the water was great ~68ish.

[AM9K]

Who surfed this afternoon / evening???  semi glassed off up in north OC and that has been very rare lately. I got out on the PSH wide-ripper around 4pm and surfed until 6 at least...  Our local jetty was pushing loooooooooooong semi gutless runners.  More sectiony on the other side of our break -so I mixed it up and had all the waves I needed.  Rights, Lefts and these fun horseshoe shaped closeouts that the jetty sandbar provides- waist high with the odd,very occasional head high sneaker.  Managed to catch one of those head high rights and was locked into a breathtaking sunset shoulder of warm sandy brown sludge for a few great moments.  Kicked out into a high flying (boardless) SPARTA SLAM.  Stupid as its shallow.  Luckily I didnt bonk the old noggin. 

Chatted with a couple other random SUSers post session. Paddling home up the channel, the sun was right to have really good visibility in the water and I saw at least 1 small, probably leopard or greydog shark and of course about 20 stingrays.
Good times.

[Sup-position]

Surfline showing 4-6'

I'm callin it solid 4'

Here is a typical wave from this morning..

Some much larger...

Ralph
Sup-position
Huntington Beach, California, USA
(714)899-3020

www.Sup-position.com

sup.position.com@gmail.com

[Tom English]

Happy b day kneecap.  Great video, and foot steering.  It looks like you stepped behind the pad on a couple waves.