Being too far ahead of the wave

[dbone66]

Sometimes I'll paddle to catch a wave but I go too far. I'll look back and see it breaking 5 feet behind me. I usually get tossed when the wave catches up. This also happens if I miss a wave. Then the next wave is coming fast but I'm too far ahead of it. Any tips on what to do when facing the beach and the wave is breaking a few feet back? I'm guessing I just gotta improve my timing.

[TallDude]

I wish there was an easy answer, but there isn't. Timing and position are something you will get the feel of after a lot of time in the water. It helps if you can do a pivit turn. I pretty much face the wave until 'I think or feel' it's going to brake. If it looks like I'm in the 'right position', and the wave is ' rightfully mine', I will 'pivot turn' at the last minute and catch it. If it doesn't feel like I'm in the right position, or someone else has dibbs, then I'll just paddle over it easily because I'm more than likely still facing the wave. I grew up at the beach, so i guess understanding the steepness, shape, and speed of a wave is kind-of second nature. So if you don't have an understanding of it, pay closer attention, and ask questions about it to someone that knows. As the tide changes, the break changes, so understand how the tide effects your break. Watch where others are lining up, and watch how they set up for a wave. You won't see too many experienced surfers or SUS in the line up with their backs to the on coming waves. Most of all, stay with it and have fun getting better.

[stoneaxe]

Rule #1 - Never turn your back on the ocean...she will make you pay.

You should always watch for a little while before going in to see where the waves are breaking, what kind of frequency there is to the sets, etc..Especially at a break that's new to you. How big they are how fast will determine how you handle it. Practice keeping your eyes on a wave when it's small, get your timing down.

On bigger waves, once you have an idea of how it's working position yourself outside and slightly to one side. When you see a a set coming start paddling to intercept where you think it will start to break, get a little speed up if necessary. You want to be watching the wave pretty much the whole way into it. A couple more hard strokes and your on.

[Ucycle]

I think learn how to read wave is very important so watch what other good surfer or SUPer do, learn from them.  I usually have my eyes on the wave until im 5-10ft from it  but by that time the wave is right behind me and i know its not going to break on me.

[JF808]

talldude said it...   there's no reall tips one can tell you, every surf break is different.  keep going out, it'
something you learn as you get better, and more familiar with the spot.

you'll find that when you goto another spot, you'll have the same problem, but with more experience the next time you goto a new spot two or three waves and you'll figure out the spot

[bts]

Tips for taking off after a wave has broken...other than 'don't do that'?

Get in surf stance, bend your knees, keep your head up.  Good luck with that one.

Avoiding that situation? Work on pivoting your board, if you're not already doing so. A quick turn is very helpful in timing late takeoffs.

[Cardiff Sweeper]

Paddle straight towards the wave, spin around 180*, and drop in.

[SUP Viking]

Paddle straight towards the wave, spin around 180*, and drop in.

Yup. Practice your kick turns on flat water. Imagine a set coming in while facing it kick back turn 180* and paddle your ass off. Repeat. This is something i practice daily. You can never be too good to go through drills like this.

Another option would be to practice going in "cattle circles" clock wise counter clockwise motion around a set. Figure out where the wave is breaking and put your dominate side to the face. When it swells up paddle your ass off so you put the wave behind you and you should be riding a wave (or getting demolished  )

[NHSUPSurf]

I just don't have enough time to be able to be a real good technical pivot turner.  For me, I need to turn to the 'next best thing'.... wave knowledge.  Making sure I am in the best spot to take advantage.  Some waves I need to paddle out a bit, some paddle in a bit... and then there are always those sneaker sets where I need to say "CRAP, PADDLE, PADDLE, PADDLE (out)" 

[Ucycle]

Yeah those sneaky sets, just this weekend i was try to go over a huge set wave, didnt make it.  But once i got back to the lineup, two proner kept asking me if i saw a huge seal heading straight for me on that wave. I said no because i was concentrate on going over head high foam. It would def suck if i get hit by the seal.