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| | |-+  wrinkles in glass.
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Author Topic: wrinkles in glass.  (Read 458 times)
Rockbottom
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« on: March 14, 2010, 11:54:04 AM »

I'm shaping a new board and am having trouble with tiny wrinkles in the glass.   Blank is sealed, laid the 6 oz glass out, smoothed outh the wrinkles.  Then I poured the resin on top of the dry glass,  working from the middle out with  epoxy over eps, and from the center back, I laminated the back half, no problems.  Then I mixed up another batch of resin research epoxy, and did the same for the front half, center foreward, and middle out to the sides, but this time I got some tiny little wrinkles in the glass that would NOT flatten out despite intesive squeege-ing, and pulling the glass from the ends to stretch them out.  They went away momentarily, but came right back.   What gives?  air temp right about 60, fast cure hardener.   It's nothing that won't sand out, but I shouldn't have to.
   
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heave
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« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2010, 08:20:55 PM »

Might be the low 60s temp?  I've never laminated at this low temp.  I like 70 ish temps and like using slow RR all in one shot.  Fast or KK for the coats.  Tight untwisted weaves can be more complicated and do the wrinkles.  I did some Kevlar again recently and appreciate how much easier glass can be. 
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Leigh
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« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2010, 03:34:48 AM »

How big is it ,as with larger boards you should have some sort of rocker jig  set up on your stands ,this will help to stop any flex in the blank as you work the cloth .flex in the blank will give you wrikles and can be hard to remove ,I would also do it in one batch not two ,
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Rockbottom
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« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2010, 04:32:23 PM »

I elected for 2 batches ast it's a fast cure hardener, pot life 15 minutes, and I wasn't sure how much I'd need so I erred on the low side ( I can mix more, but what is mixed, is mixed);  I hate wating epoxy!

I didn't use a rocker stick as there isn't much rocker, 3" fore and 2" aft.   I'm thinking it's from the epoxy getting thicker as I work it, it's warm in the pot, but when not in masse, it gets cool.
    What is the benefit of using 1 pot for the whole job vs 2?   When I'm doing 2 layers of glass at once, I usually mix 1 pot (ish)  per layer, I'm 1 person and a 12' board takes a bit of time to lay up.

Thanks for the input.
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Leigh
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« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2010, 12:36:21 AM »

I use slow epoxy on  all boards i do under 10 foot ,I glass top and bottom 1 layer each you get very clean laps with very little lap sanding ,strong rails ,I flip the board after ive raped the cloth round the rails then glass the top and rap the into the wet epoxy on the bottom .here are some pics of how clean the they come out .





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jdmotes
JD Motes
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« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2010, 06:28:51 AM »

 That is some super-clean work, Leigh. Nice wrap on the rails...   Later,   JD
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Rockbottom
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« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2010, 02:32:35 AM »

What do you use as an anti-sticking surface pad to flip a still tacky board over  to laminate the other side?  I tried it once using bubble wrap, but ended up with bubble marks in my laminate.
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Leigh
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« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2010, 03:03:41 AM »

not sure what you call over there ,we call cling wrap ,just make sure that the ends of your stan is higher than the middle ,that way you only have 4 small marks from the stands not two long ones, I use methord on my short boards and can lay carbon rails, 1x 4 with fin patch's on the bottom and 2 x4 on the deck all in one session ,less than 1 hour  of work ,come  back to it the next day quick lap sand and i mean quick ,hot ,coat plug it, sand it ,less than 4 hours start   to  finnish ,
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