Glassing schedule

[aircube]

Yo, I glassed in the quad  Future  boxes last night.  This evening I Laminated and vacuum bagged two 6 oz glass layers on the bottom.

Next up is the LAST () laminating vacuum bagging and I can't decide wether i should go with "2 or 3"  6 oz glass topdeck layers.

Originally I planned on going 2 bottom and 3 top all 6 oz.

But I decided to utilized the load spreading strength of wood veneer on the top deck.   So I put down a layer of 6oz just under the veneer layer and than bagged.  Then I decided to add 9 oz by 3" glass tape all the way around the rail.  followed by 2 x 6oz bottoms and then 2 x 6 oz tops 

For a total of 3 6oz plus veneer on top and 33oz total for the rails

The only option, would be to add one more full 6oz top for a total of 4 6oz in standing area and this would be 39 oz total on the rails.

ANy comments, suggestions?  I am leaning towards two on top of the veneer plus the 9oz rail tape  (i added the rail tape so i could use one less full 6oz on top to save weight but keep the rails strong.

I have never made an EPS blank board that was'nt cover in divinnycell, so i could use some help deciding....
 

Thanks





 

[Mahana]

Whoa, that is way too much glass when you are using a veneer with 6oz under it! If you are down to just the deck to be glassed and you insist on a lot of glass I would not go further than one 6oz trimmed to the edge of the deck and one overlapping the rails. If I was to build the same board my glassing schedule would be as follows: 2oz under veneer, 2-6oz on bottom, and 2-6oz on top and it would be plenty strong enough for my 220 lbs.. If I remember right this is a short board, why do you want to add all that weight?

[aircube]

thanks Steve,

Why do i want to add all that weight?  I don't....., I was just asking, " can I get away with 2 6ox on top of the veneer instead of 3."

So  2 X 6oz on top would be PLENTY?  I used the veneer so i could use less glass on top  AND to stop cracking under heels,  I used 3" 9 oz rail tape so i could go one LESS layer on top but have the same or stronger rails (for paddle hits)

So you figure one 6oz trimmed at the rail, and one operlapping  the bottom would be tons?

How many inches would you verlap the last layer on the bottom?

Thanks

[aircube]

Now that its pretty much cured i could almost see going with omnly ONE 6oz on top.

SO basically, 6oz/veneer/6oz


not sure but it would save a good deal of weight

Any thoughts?

[Mahana]

SO basically, 6oz/veneer/6oz

Any thoughts?

Basically, coat the back of the veneer with 2oz and let cure, trim with scissors and bag onto blank, 2 layers of 6oz on top of that is plenty.

So  2 X 6oz on top would be PLENTY?  I used the veneer so i could use less glass on top  AND to stop cracking under heels,  I used 3" 9 oz rail tape so i could go one LESS layer on top but have the same or stronger rails (for paddle hits)

So you figure one 6oz trimmed at the rail, and one operlapping  the bottom would be tons?

How many inches would you verlap the last layer on the bottom?

That's just how I would build that same board if it were for me, if a customer came to me and said he wanted the  rails reinforced because he hits them a lot I would change a few things.

I trim all my glass by eye and there is no standard line to measure by... too short and it will pull up, too long and it will crease.

[aircube]

thanks Steve,

going with one 6oz to the rail and one 6oz wrapped.  I reinforced the rail with a nose to tail 3" 9oz glass tape  and it went on smooth and came out of the bag looking good and feels very strong already without the two top layers on so the tape might well have been overkill.

What kind of finished board weight are you guys gettting with a 8'x30" board?

[Mahana]

Haven't had anyone want to go that small yet. I will be doing an 8'6" x 28" in the near future and expect to be under 12 lbs. Sam set the bar with his 12'6 down-winder that only weighs around 15 lbs.

[aircube]

Wow, a 15 lbs 12'6 and a 12 lbs 8'6  Someone must have poured some moulten lead in my resin b/c mine is  prob going to come out about 17 or so finished weight.  It is bomber though, I lend my boards out to friends all the time and well...... you get the picture.  they need to be strong.

[Mahana]

Can't wait to see the finished product!

[aircube]

Thanks man, me too

Color and design is holding me up a bit right now.  I think imight just go straight grey or white, i'm not very artistic!

Any sugesstions?

[Mahana]

I usually put my color on the blank or in the lam but it sounds as though you are too far along for that so that leaves painting with a clear coat. Helps if you have access to an automotive spray booth then you can shoot the good clear.

[aircube]

yea, i did too with clark foam, but with the eps I uss just paint the glass.

What type of clear would you sugest?

[Mahana]

The clear coats sprayed in the auto body industry are mostly urethane's or acrylic urethane's or lacquers . I can't recall the one my guy uses. Bottom line is that if you are going to spray an automotive clear it absolutely must be sprayed in a draft type paint booth, there is a reason the EPA makes body shops record all the clear they shoot every month, it is nasty stuff in the air!!!

[aircube]

For this one i'm pretty much stuck with painting the glass.    I think I'll just go with a high quality 2-part Urethane or epoxy paint and be done with it.

 Yea, Its much nicer to work with water based paints on the foam.  Next time iguess. 
How dout you paint your blanks?  What type of foam and paint?  Do you fill holes etc?

[Mahana]

If I paint a blank (EPS) it is first prepped with Fast -n- Final spackle and then paint is sprayed. I almost always use Nova Color paint when using water based acrylics but I have been known to use Auto Air from time to time when I want a crazy color.