Finding that sweet spot?

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[HarkinBanks]

I've only been SUPing about 6 months, never surfed before. I live where there is no problem finding great waves (mostly waste to chest) but during windy season they close out a little more. Often I'm alone on the break (surfers stay on other side of island and don't like to paddle that far) so I don't get to watch many other riders of any sort.  So here is the question, I can't seem to find the right place to be on the wave. I either get on the wave early and it closes out in front of me - so I can't get to next section, or I get on the wave too far to sholder and don't get much out of it. This morning I watched a new guy on the reef catching everything and he could manage to stay right in front of the break every time, and get unreal long rides. I know experience is the answer - but what should I be doing to move a little on that learning curve? (thanks - this is my first post)
btw - Cheers to Byron for that post on compression. A buddy tried to tell me that before but did not register really until I read that post. I think that's the sinlgle most important thing I've learned so far.
Stu

[Byronmaui]

Aloha Stuart

Here is what I was taught from my father and teach my son. The first thing at any break is to study the break from the beach and watch where it first turns to whitewash and follow the whitewash across the wave. Determine from the beach the takeoff spot where you will get the longest ride. Once you have determined the takeoff spot look behind you for a reference point such as a lone tree, bushes, building, your car, etc. Once you figured out the takeoff spot and have a reference for it from the beach now your ready to paddle out. As you paddle out keep checking your reference point to see if it was correct or not. If it was not correct then you will have to make adjustments from the water such as moving 10 feet from your beach monument, etc. Once you have reached the break watch a couple waves break and see again if the reference point was correct or not. Sometimes adjustments are necessary because of distance of the break, bad eyes like me, shifting peak, etc.

Now that you are lineup and are positioned correctly time to catch your wave. Sit a little further out then normal and when you see your wave time to paddle. On your first wave try going straight a little longer than you normally would then make the bottom turn to head down the line. If you are behind the whitewash go straight and get off the wave. Since you were behind the whitewash on the prior wave try angling the nose a little in the direction you are heading on the next wave and take less of a bottom turn. Still if this does not work keep changing your angle of attack a little more until it gets you to the correct position on the wave. This may take you half a dozen waves or less but if you keep changing the angle of attack and the bottom turn you will eventually get it wired.

Some things to remember is do not get on the tail tooooooo much on takeoff unless it is a steep late take off. Being on the tail too much will slow the board down and thus you may get caught in the whitewash. Move the back foot up a foot or so on the board and see what happens (Adjust the stance forward on the board). The other thing is maybe once you make the takeoff you are coming up the face to high and resulting in a loss of speed. Try staying down or when you are coming up the face cut back down lower than normal.

These are some thoughts on my mind without seeing any vids and pics. Hopefully I did not confuse you. Good luck and thru practice you will ripppppppppppppppp.

aloha

Byron

P.S. There are many more things to go over but start with these and let us know results.

[HarkinBanks]

Sounds like good advice. Thinking about getting a grese pencil and taking notes on the nose of my board! Will let you know how it works out. At the point I'm learning something every day. Thanks alot!

[Southbay]

Good advice from Byron.  I have never really put that in to words, but I would say right on. 


Southbay

[HarkinBanks]

Hi Byron

I went somewhere new today and the wave was a bit differnt - some breeze off shore and they were standing up nice about shoulder high.  My first wave I ended up in same boat as always: low on wave and in the white water. So I got back out and thought about it awhile. I was in a good location so did not change that much. On the following wave I rememberd your advice and turned much higer on wave than I usually do. I usually delay my bottom turn until well in the waves grip. I usually don't turn high becuase I expect the close out and following free fall. But I went for it today and was shocked to make it through!! When I got to the closing section I angled down and steped foward (remembering to compress) and scooted right on though to next section.  Awsome advice!!
Now - the other side of my original problem: Being too far in front of that sweet spot. later I got a great wave but it felt really soft - not getting much out of it becuase I was way to far over to sholder. A buddy of mine was paddleing back out and shouted "cut back" - my ability to cut back is more like just straigtening out and heading towards shore and when I turned to continue on the wave again realized I was right where I wanted to be!
btw - I've got no problem staying foward on my board and in fact might be a little too far foward. I ride a 10ft  Fish (http://www.biltsurf.com/sup.asp) and it's got tons of rocker from what everyone tells me. I bought from a guy on the beach who did not want to pay excess backage home and sold it to me for what it would cost to replace on his rental rack in South Africa. About 1/3 price what it would cost me here. It's been a great first board!! Point is - I have to take a good two steps back to turn it and another two up to get some speed. The one step medium is unacceptable becuase then I'm kinda slow and kinda can't turn!
 
Thanks for the advice - So far you've given me the two best tips possible. Compression and finding the sweet spot. Surfing ability is improving daily since I got on this forum.

[Byronmaui]

Right on......Yeeeehaw and stoked for you. Keep practicing and things will be natural. You will go to new breaks and blow the first one and rip the rest.
Now for the frontside cutback the best advice I received was from Blane and it was get part of the back foot hanging over or near the inside rail. Not the toes but the heal side. The tail section on a Sup is larger than a shortboard so placing the back foot is critical. Try this and let me know.

Aloha

Byron

P.S. Practice these and you will rippppppppppppppppppp.

[HarkinBanks]

Hi Byron - have not been surfing that much due to sinus/ear problems. Played lots of sports and had many sports injuries but none as frustrating as sinuses keeping me off the playing field. Anyway - I think it's behind me and I've been out a few times this week. Regarding your advice about the back foot - GREAT!!! Today I actually looked down at my back foot and realized it was firmly in center of board - so I literally took a steep to the inside rail and shot right up the face, moved it back to other side and made a smooth turn back down!.
To any new surfers (no previous surfing experience) like myself with the oportunity to be on great waves where you won't kill anyone else. - Top/bottom turn should be earlier so you get speed down face, (or go low so wave will catch up) Compression!!!, and move your back foot towards the rail for smooth turn. Also I walk up and down board a lot - seems that is necessary either to turn or get speed.  I've found I think a lot more when new at something so hope my learning may help someone else move through curve faster.
Curious - one more question: Is it better to put paddle behind you when going backside or in front across body? I don't have much oportunity to practice rights so have no preference yet.
Byron - thanks for the advice! Things going great!

[Byronmaui]

Stuart - With the paddle backside it is kind of up to the rider. Waveside or landside it really depends on the wave. I think it is easier to put it landside but I like the look of waveside. I guess it is for each their own. I wish I had a better answer but I don't...Sorry....
You can look on these threads (vids) and see different paddle styles. Stoked that you are progressing and having fun.

http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php?topic=4508.0

http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php?topic=4583.0

http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php?topic=4440.0

Hopefully this helps.

Aloha

Byron

[Sam Pa'e]

Aloha Stuart,

Curious - one more question: Is it better to put paddle behind you when going backside or in front across body? I don't have much oportunity to practice rights so have no preference yet.

If its OK..........can I elaborate and help with sharing my take on this subject? I’ll try to very brief on this surfing technique and try to explain it the best way I can……..Seeing it through my eyes.

Stuart - With the paddle backside it is kind of up to the rider. Waveside or landside it really depends on the wave. I think it is easier to put it landside but I like the look of waveside. I guess it is for each their own. I wish I had a better answer but I don't...Sorry....

Here Byron is right....It's really what feels comfortable for you. It's easier to keep your paddle on the "open side" of your body then across the front side or what I call the "close side" paddle

If you noticed that while your surfing one “feet” is always stepped back? Well your hip/pelvis is open to that side of the board. Which makes it easier to position your paddle there……or what I call the “open side”

For example…a goofy footer going back side at a local beach break will have their left feet positioned back (vise verse for regular foot) so that your body is open to the beach. So lets call this your “Open side”


This is my open-side position. My right hand is on the palm grip & left hand is on the shaft while my left feet is stepped back

Now it easy to keep your paddle on your “open side” because your hip/pelvis & “shoulders” are also “open” to the beach side……So that’s why its easier to keep your paddle on that side. You will also see some guys  put the paddle on the “wave” side . Now this position I’ll call your “closed side”

This move is very difficult for me because now my left arm is across my body trying to hold position on the wave…..The biggest problem with this is if your blade catches that wall it will put a meant torque on you back and will receive back problems later.


This is my close-side position. Notice the grip & shaft positioning has changed, but my left feet remains in the same position

Now some guys (backside surfers) like to keep their paddle on the wave and switch their blade position
at periodic times, but they don’t reposition their hand placement on the shaft.

If you notice some SUP surfer that surf backside are very versatile and flexible in their movement, their timing and decision is so precise that they will anticipate the right time to put the blade on the beach side while holding a
“close side “ placement on the shaft.

I find it easier to control my board with the paddle on the “open side” then my “close side”. The added benefit with the paddle on my “open side”   I can’t see what’s barrelling behind me, so the paddle helps me brace for impact. I don’t think this can be accomplished with my left arm cross my body or paddle positioned “close side”

If you want you can read more on this link: http://www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php?topic=2666.0

OK I hope this has helped you and maybe put an insight on surfing your paddle "open side" while surfing backside…..Remember I’m no expert just some who’s willing to share my “MANA’O”

Aloha………Sam