Author Topic: What is your favourite Surf book?  (Read 1311 times)

SupPadre

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #15 on: March 04, 2017, 09:28:14 AM »
Heap of Bones by Steve Sorensen.

SUPsports

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #16 on: March 04, 2017, 10:41:30 AM »
Another great one is Good Things Love Water by Chris Ahrens.

Yes...I became friends with, and surfed with Chris, when he moved to Humboldt for a period back in the day...
Since then, he's definitely become a respected surf author...
I'd still like to get some of my slides of Humboldt surfing back from him...;-)

He had some great stories...his brother had Ken Bradshaw as a roomie on the North shore right after Ken moved from Texas and started charging Waimea...etc...Bradshaw wasn't exactly a popular guy...but, eventually moved up the pecking order with a few bumps in the road...;-)

http://www.perelandrapublishing.com/works/7-good-things-love-water
http://www.perelandrapublishing.com/

I've read most of what's been mentioned...and, agree with surfafrica about the Doc Renneker story...

Quote
surfafrica:
My top surf story by a long shot...
Playing Doc’s Games by William Finnegan
written in 1992 and published in New Yorker

Can't find my copies...I used to loan them out...hope I got it back last time...if not, I hope the story is still being passed around...

Others worthy of mention that haven't been yet, are The History of Surfing: Nat Young and The History of Surfing: Matt Warshaw

http://www.theinertia.com/business-media/history-of-surfing-surf-literature-new-yorker-and-beyond/
« Last Edit: March 04, 2017, 11:20:51 AM by SUPsports »
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PonoBill

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #17 on: March 04, 2017, 11:12:15 AM »
Worthwhile though expensive ($200) and you need a stand to read it--massive. 900 pages. mostly photographs, but the text is excellent.

« Last Edit: March 04, 2017, 12:08:55 PM by PonoBill »
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FRP

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #18 on: March 12, 2017, 09:03:35 PM »
My top surf story by a long shot:

Playing Doc’s Games by William Finnegan
written in 1992 and published in New Yorker

I think you can grab a copy of it (pdf) here -> http://aspwedge.com/playing-docs-games/

Such a good read.

I also really enjoyed Breath by Tim Winton

https://www.amazon.com/Breath-Novel-Tim-Winton/dp/0312428391


Thank so much Surfafrica for the link to Playing Doc's Games.  Beautiful prose. Comes so very close to capturing the essence of surfing....will definitely reread again and again.......

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APPST_Paddle

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #19 on: March 13, 2017, 09:18:17 AM »
Not exactly surf-related, but has anyone read Peak - it's mentioned quite a bit on Paddlewoo, I was going to grab it at some point.
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Weasels wake

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #20 on: March 13, 2017, 01:02:46 PM »
Kind of surprised that nobody has mentioned this book yet, maybe because it's not 100% about surfing, but more about the counter culture of the 60's.
"The Pump House Gang", by Tom Wolfe.
The name comes from the sewer pump house that still stands at Windansea beach in La Jolla, and the local surfers that hung out there.
A very fun read, it came out at about the same time as his other hit book "The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test", another great read.
This first pic is of "Murf the surf" all over a surf chick, who had a statue of himself by the shack on the beach, which was later destroyed allegedly by some bikers.
The second is the pump house itself, with an homage to Wolfe on it, the building is still there, but w/o the homage.

The pump house gang evolved into the Mac Meda Destruction Co., there are still some members of them around, I know a few of them, and they still have reunions every now and then.  But not like the days gone by when they'd throw big parties at Windansea, which would bring out San Diego's finest in blue (the po-pos), to try to regain order.
A scene in "Riding Giants" where you see guys riding thru the storm drain on a flexy onto the beach, is during a Mac Meda Destruction Co. party.
« Last Edit: March 13, 2017, 01:21:33 PM by Weasels wake »
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Cruisinby

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #21 on: March 13, 2017, 01:56:09 PM »

Caribsurf

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #22 on: March 13, 2017, 02:02:40 PM »
Great read, took 28 minutes. ;D
« Last Edit: March 13, 2017, 02:08:51 PM by Caribsurf »
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