Author Topic: What is your favourite Surf book?  (Read 1312 times)

FRP

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What is your favourite Surf book?
« on: February 28, 2017, 08:23:32 PM »


I just started reading "Barbarian Days" and wondered if there are other epic surf books out there. "The Wave" was previously at the top of my list.......well really the only one on my list. Is there anything out there with a spiritual or psychological approach to surfing?

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nalu-sup

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2017, 08:27:39 PM »
Check out anything written by Gerry Lopez who has written and taught a great deal on those topics; a master of surfing and yoga who has spent a lifetime exploring the two and how they can connect.
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surf4food

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2017, 09:26:27 PM »
Fierce Heart by Stuart Holmes Coleman.

PonoBill

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2017, 04:03:14 PM »
Gerry Lopez, Surf is where you find it. Poetry.
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Tom

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2017, 05:34:26 PM »
What Pono said.
Also a fun book is In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road Paperback – 
by Allan Weisbecker 

lopezwill

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2017, 09:11:21 PM »


Eddie Would Go (the story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero by Stuart Holmes Coleman.

It's a good study of Eddie Aikau life with some interesting Hawaiian culture.

SUPalon

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2017, 10:30:01 PM »
Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave Paperback – July 13, 2010
by Peter Heller  (Author)

gjbstandup

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2017, 03:52:26 AM »
Same as Pono Bill

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2017, 05:02:08 AM »
Surf is where you find it, Lopez

Barbarian Days, Finnegan

Big Juice, John Long/Sam George (essays)

Caught Inside, Daniel Duane

Kook, Heller

Surfers Code, Shaun Tomson

The Wave, Casey

Force of Nature, Hamilton (more like a lifestyle magazine)

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, Chas Smith

Hound of the Sea, Garrett McNamara

not just surf, Crazy for the Storm, Ollestad

And of course.....Journals from the Edge - Boyum


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chucktheskiffie

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2017, 03:48:41 PM »
I really enjoyed Journals from the Edge written by some scrub,....    ;D

Tom

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #10 on: March 02, 2017, 04:33:44 PM »
For something different try

The Gentlemen's Hour
The Dawn Patrol
The Winter of Frankie Machine
by Don Winslow

These are fiction about a surfer/private-eye from Pacific Beach. Winslow is one of my favorite writer. Two other great books by him are Savages and Cartel.

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #11 on: March 03, 2017, 09:41:57 AM »
'Barbarian Days' is tops.
'All For a Few Perfect Waves' by David Rensin, a bio of Miki Dora, is pretty amazing too -- highly recommended. And 'Caught Inside' by Daniel Duane, his memoir of learning to surf as an adult, is a good read.
I second the recommendation for 'Crazy for the Storm.' That one stuck with me: Dads and sons and surfing and disaster. Good stuff.
In fiction, Kem Nunn's 'Dogs of Winter' is hard to beat.

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surfafrica

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #12 on: March 03, 2017, 11:23:47 AM »
My top surf story by a long shot:

Playing Doc’s Games by William Finnegan
written in 1992 and published in New Yorker

I think you can grab a copy of it (pdf) here -> http://aspwedge.com/playing-docs-games/

Such a good read.

I also really enjoyed Breath by Tim Winton

https://www.amazon.com/Breath-Novel-Tim-Winton/dp/0312428391
« Last Edit: March 03, 2017, 11:28:17 AM by surfafrica »
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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #13 on: March 03, 2017, 04:01:33 PM »
Also a fun book is In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road Paperback – 
by Allan Weisbecker
+1
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surf4food

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Re: What is your favourite Surf book?
« Reply #14 on: March 04, 2017, 06:41:54 AM »
Another great one is Good Things Love Water by Chris Ahrens.

 


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