Author Topic: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom  (Read 1651 times)

Supneck

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Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« on: February 10, 2017, 07:20:14 PM »
    I was having fun as I always do, when I stumbled across my own dumb ass self and smashed my right knee into the deck of my MHL. I have removed the broken Carbon fiber foam, not much foam, placed some S Cloth and resin with Q cell. After sanding I noticed voids in the resin. I am not sure where I went wrong. This is my first time using Q ell and think I may have used to much. I am using the West Systems 105 and 205 resin and hardener pumps. I used 3 pumps from each and then added 3 scoops of Qcell. The scoops were about 2 Tblspns or so. I mostly hand sanded , so i don't think I heated the board up or maybe I did.                                                                                                                                                                                                 I will gratefully appreciate any help and advice. thank You
Bark 14' x 28" Dominator
MHL 14' x 24' Custom

supuk

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2017, 10:39:54 PM »
Hard to say 100% but its ether just bubbles in the resin or posably the foam has gassed out as it cured. Make sure any repairs are done when temperatures are stable for at least 2hours or droping.

PonoBill

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2017, 11:18:19 PM »
That's what spackle or body putty is for.
Ponohouse is for sale: http://www.ponohouse.com
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

jrandy

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2017, 02:58:46 AM »
My first thoughts agree with Charlie- out-gassing from temperature change during the repair.

Hard to tell from the pictures...how much cloth-layers and distance from the edges of the removed skin and foam- do you have on the repair? For a first pass with Q-cell, resin, and cloth this looks really good. To make things void-free and shiny takes multiple passes with resin and sanding.

For a nice set of how-to's on board repair...http://boardlady.com/repairmenu.htm
http://pushheretosavealife.com/
Be safe, have fun. -J

Supneck

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2017, 07:18:51 AM »
Hard to say 100% but its ether just bubbles in the resin or posably the foam has gassed out as it cured. Make sure any repairs are done when temperatures are stable for at least 2hours or droping.
I am in South Carolina and the temps were in the 50's and falling fast. I let the mixture sit for a minute or two. maybe I should give it some more time?
Bark 14' x 28" Dominator
MHL 14' x 24' Custom

Supneck

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2017, 07:20:59 AM »
That's what spackle or body putty is for.
I did use some filler but sanded it down to belkow the surface. I thought maybe the q cell resin mixture would be easier to sand.
Bark 14' x 28" Dominator
MHL 14' x 24' Custom

PonoBill

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #6 on: February 11, 2017, 07:24:59 AM »
Really, you did fine. You can use epoxy with a longer pot time and stick it in a vacuum chamber to degas it, but other than that, some voids are inevitable, and it's very difficult to get your sanding perfect on the first pass anyway. Most ding repair guys use the super fast automotive body putty for final prep, or even on top of sanded glass before painting. 
Ponohouse is for sale: http://www.ponohouse.com
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Supneck

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #7 on: February 11, 2017, 07:26:08 AM »
My first thoughts agree with Charlie- out-gassing from temperature change during the repair.

Hard to tell from the pictures...how much cloth-layers and distance from the edges of the removed skin and foam- do you have on the repair? For a first pass with Q-cell, resin, and cloth this looks really good. To make things void-free and shiny takes multiple passes with resin and sanding.

For a nice set of how-to's on board repair...http://boardlady.com/repairmenu.htm
Thanks. Should i just use the resin without Qcell? I am definitely familiar with The Board Lady site. I have been lurking around here for a while now trying to absorb as much as I can before I start bothering people for help. I have 2 pieces of S cloth one the size of the damage and 1 about 2 inches larger that that. I am going to put another coat of resin today and see what happens.
Bark 14' x 28" Dominator
MHL 14' x 24' Custom

Supneck

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2017, 07:28:20 AM »
Really, you did fine. You can use epoxy with a longer pot time and stick it in a vacuum chamber to degas it, but other than that, some voids are inevitable, and it's very difficult to get your sanding perfect on the first pass anyway. Most ding repair guys use the super fast automotive body putty for final prep, or even on top of sanded glass before painting.
Makes sense. I have been using an epoxy putty that I repair cast iron drain pipes with. I didnt think of using Bondo. I have some on the truck for enamel tub repair. I will definitely try that next. Thanks again for the advice PonoBill.
Bark 14' x 28" Dominator
MHL 14' x 24' Custom

blackeye

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #9 on: February 11, 2017, 10:07:35 AM »
Supneck - thanks for starting this thread. I've found a huge gulf between theory and practice when it comes to composites. Its great to see repairs that look like mine, and for others to say its all good.

jrandy

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #10 on: February 11, 2017, 10:17:12 AM »
Bondo+EPS=fail (the styrene in the Bondo-which is basically polyester resin+talc- will eat the ESP)
Should be OK on top of a sealed epoxy+cloth lamination.
50 F is too cold for righteous epoxy work in my chilly Midwestern opinion. Best between 75 and 85, gets exciting at 90+, about the time I am ready to laminate 12'6"ers...

I am not a spit-and-polish guy, more of a goop-deburr-go type.  I drool over eDUBZ's work.
http://pushheretosavealife.com/
Be safe, have fun. -J

supuk

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #11 on: February 11, 2017, 12:32:33 PM »
At 50 the resin will have been to cold for the bubbles to rise and escape, warm the resin before use.

Do not use polyester based fillers on epoxy for a quality repair.

Fill and level before you glass over.

Fill, sand and level, glass, sand, hotcoat with epoxy, sand, finish coat epoxy, sand, paint if needed. Simple

PonoBill

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #12 on: February 11, 2017, 01:19:37 PM »
Bondo+EPS=fail (the styrene in the Bondo-which is basically polyester resin+talc- will eat the ESP)
Should be OK on top of a sealed epoxy+cloth lamination.
50 F is too cold for righteous epoxy work in my chilly Midwestern opinion. Best between 75 and 85, gets exciting at 90+, about the time I am ready to laminate 12'6"ers...

I am not a spit-and-polish guy, more of a goop-deburr-go type.  I drool over eDUBZ's work.

Yeah,me too. I shouldn't be giving people advice on quality work since I never do any. Except maybe aluminum. Yeah, me and big dong. 

I should have said keep any solvent stuff off the eps, but it works okay on top of epoxy.  The stuff I see ding shops use is that one part stuff in tubes. Must have something super volatile as the solvent, since a thin coat is ready to sand about the time you get the cap back on the tube. It's just for final finish. Never layer it.
Ponohouse is for sale: http://www.ponohouse.com
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

Supneck

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #13 on: February 12, 2017, 07:02:29 AM »
Bondo+EPS=fail (the styrene in the Bondo-which is basically polyester resin+talc- will eat the ESP)
Should be OK on top of a sealed epoxy+cloth lamination.
50 F is too cold for righteous epoxy work in my chilly Midwestern opinion. Best between 75 and 85, gets exciting at 90+, about the time I am ready to laminate 12'6"ers...

I am not a spit-and-polish guy, more of a goop-deburr-go type.  I drool over eDUBZ's work.
Who doesnt drool over eDubz work. I follow him on Instagram also. Thanks for the advice, I have read all kinds of articles and blogs on the different epoxy's and stuff. It gets very confusing when acronyms come into play. I think some people use the word epoxy when they mean something else,(mostly me). The whole polyester thing seems to be used on older boards or surf boards. I am just starting to grasp the difference between open cell and closed cell, untill I actually type out this sentence. Then I realize I don't know that much. The only thing I know for sure is that I will have plenty of dings to learn on in the future.
 
Bark 14' x 28" Dominator
MHL 14' x 24' Custom

Supneck

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Re: Repairing the deck of my MHL Custom
« Reply #14 on: February 12, 2017, 07:11:09 AM »
Bondo+EPS=fail (the styrene in the Bondo-which is basically polyester resin+talc- will eat the ESP)
Should be OK on top of a sealed epoxy+cloth lamination.
50 F is too cold for righteous epoxy work in my chilly Midwestern opinion. Best between 75 and 85, gets exciting at 90+, about the time I am ready to laminate 12'6"ers...

I am not a spit-and-polish guy, more of a goop-deburr-go type.  I drool over eDUBZ's work.

Yeah,me too. I shouldn't be giving people advice on quality work since I never do any. Except maybe aluminum. Yeah, me and big dong. 

I should have said keep any solvent stuff off the eps, but it works okay on top of epoxy.  The stuff I see ding shops use is that one part stuff in tubes. Must have something super volatile as the solvent, since a thin coat is ready to sand about the time you get the cap back on the tube. It's just for final finish. Never layer it.
No worries, any advice I get is much appreciated. I am grateful to have people to talk to this stuff about.
Bark 14' x 28" Dominator
MHL 14' x 24' Custom

 


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