Author Topic: Hard Rails  (Read 5714 times)

yugi

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Re: Hard Rails
« Reply #15 on: June 02, 2017, 09:17:40 AM »
^ yep.

and they work. I like it.

Still time on board in bigger chop and messy DW. See if they don't catch too much.

stoneaxe

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Re: Hard Rails
« Reply #16 on: June 02, 2017, 03:03:06 PM »
I think I need to find a good Paulownia source.
Bob

8-4 Vec, 9-0 SouthCounty, 9-8 Starboard, 10-4 Foote Triton, 10-6 C4, 12-6 Starboard, 14-0 Vec (babysitting the 18-0 Speedboard) Ke Nalu Molokai, Ke Nalu Maliko, Ke Nalu Wiki Ke Nalu Konihi

anonsurfer

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Re: Hard Rails
« Reply #17 on: June 04, 2017, 06:53:50 AM »
I have been experimenting with rail shape for the last couple of years on my custom made wooden SUPs and have become convinced that, with the exception of the nose section, a hard rail along the board works best. 

Your deck and upper rail profile looks a lot like my old Phoenix, flat deck with a sharp transition to a pinched rail (see image below). 

I also like a hard rail, especially in boards that are designed for slower surf.  My latest project, the Bean Bag, utilizes a tucked hard rail to the wide point then transitions into a 50-50 in the nose (see image below).

Maurice Cole utilizes hard rails nose to tail.   The history and logic behind his designs is very interesting. 

Here is an image of some of my board rails at mid point.  They all utilize a flat deck with pinched rails to some degree.  The Bean Bag is designed for flatter, slower surf.  It has a full pinched rail and hard tucked edge. 

My Hypto Krypto's rail is similar (just a little softer at mid point).  This board is amazing, one of my all time favorite boards. 



 

« Last Edit: June 04, 2017, 07:05:07 AM by anonsurfer »
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