Exit Strategy - today's session required one

[outcast]

Whatsup asked a good question and the title implies same.
My guess is STC didn't get too pounded in #11, but there's a fine line.

Cape certainly get its  share of close-outs, especially in an ESE swell  with occasional hero waves ...often seems like luck, but there is a trick to picking the right ones.

Safest move is to straighten out and run for it....but the price you pay is a more prolonged beating trying to get back out

A hard bottom turn to hit the lip and kick out and over is fine,  but works really well only if you make it out the back completely. A hard paddle push helps alot....and jumping / leaping over is a good thing

Into the face is not "so" bad.

OR...you could try what happened to me later in the day on a hollow one, and that is to be late for the kickout, and jump-fall face down onto just the backside of the lip....this resulted in an over the falls on my back cannon-ball with paddle-in-hand free fall wondering how hard the sand is.   I definitely tuck on those.      I think this most the intrinsically dangerous exit ....Its probably inevitable if you are going hollow in beach break.....................................
 
I would much prefer to end up in the face....even though you would think that it is about to become the lip, the tumble is a little less violent especially if you are low and can get deep

my two cents  good pics and charging btw

[supthecreek]

Creek:  For us smaller wave riders, can you explain what typically happens once you and your board abort the ride starting at the time of your image - (reference images #5 and #11)?  I presume your punching through the backside without much punishment() Same for the board(?) Or are these the size of waves that tend to pick you (and board) up and toss you over the falls?  I'm guessing its also a matter of momentum falling into the wave(?)

Any insight greatly appreciated!!!!

 

Whatz^
Good question, so I have been putting together some pics....
then decided to do a video with different kinds of kick out's as well, I may combine them.....
I will post that as a new Topic. Maybe tomorrow.... if I ever finish it 

[WhatsSUP]

Awesome!  Sounds great Creek.

As mentioned in a post I made over in Cookie-mon's January swell thread, I'm currently on this kick of trying to better understand how wave size affects punch-thru's and various types of wipe-outs.  Probably difficult to do as I'm sure there's soooo many dynamics playing - I know I've had some stupid beatings falling over the front of my board in just 2-3'..     

Looking forward to your next vid.....

 

[Board Stiff]

OR...you could try what happened to me later in the day on a hollow one, and that is to be late for the kickout, and jump-fall face down onto just the backside of the lip....this resulted in an over the falls on my back cannon-ball with paddle-in-hand free fall wondering how hard the sand is.   I definitely tuck on those.      I think this most the intrinsically dangerous exit ....Its probably inevitable if you are going hollow in beach break.....................................

These kickout/jumpovers are what typically leave me the most banged up after a session. Either I completely clear the wave, and end up falling awkwardly all the way down to the trough behind it, or I come up way short and slam into the walled up face! 

[mrbig]

Hawaiian survival dive hard and low break on through to the other side. As far away from the BIG HEAAVY SUP as possible. Pulling in very different on a short board.

[outcast]

i think what happened to me, when kicking out and over, was that the big surface of the sup nose caught the lip rather than slicing thru, and literally tripped me up into a face plant on the waterfall-to-be-me

wanna play....gonna pay

[WhatsSUP]

Agree Outcast....I'm beginning to think that sometimes its best to simply straighten out (putting the nose to the beach) and doing the Nestea Plunge off the back then dealing with the paddle out.