Supcheat's Boring Surf Vid

[WhatsSUP]

Cheat:  A VERY nice change.  I really like the lead in footage as so much of the experience is the anticipation of getting there and seeing what the conditions are and getting ready and getting in the water.  And nothin boring about it!  You enjoyed your outing and shared it here with hundreds of your friends....so, for that (I/we) am/are thankful! 

We all learn from each others vids....and it ain't always about fancy technique.  It looked like you had a blast and there is no doubt you've got lots of folks around out there who share the stoke.

Thanks Cheat!  Look forward to more!!! 

[SUPcheat]

Thanks so much to everybody for nice comments.  I promise more waves in the next one.

[surfercook]

Rule #1. Keep both hands on the paddle at all times.

I disagree...but I think it's def good to hang on to it most of the time for turning and racing down the line. Sometimes I find myself surfing the wave w/out both hands on the paddle and when the wave starts getting away from me it's too late to start sweeping and catch up. The reason I'm disagreeing though is this one drop I took in spring 2015.  As soon as I read your comment, Badger I instantly thought of that wave. It really threw out and both my arms flew up in the air to make it. It was pure survival instinct taking over. Thing huffed a beautiful cloud that flew past me. I'll never forget that wave!

[clay]

Right on Carl, thanks for sharing.   I really enjoyed the intro as well, keep em coming. 

One project I'm thinking about is a local community video project. gather everyone's footage and do a solid edit with the backstory of whoever wants to be featured...

[Night Wing]

How old do you need to be to claim geezer privilege?  Is there a sliding scale for injuries?  I just want to make sure I use everything I can at my disposal. ;-)

Since I started all this as a geezer, and I am getting more geezerly the longer I do it, than I claim double geezer privilege.

I first stood up on a wave in September three years ago at 63.  I'm pushing 67 in December.

Otherwise, YMMV.

I first paddled my Hobie sup on flat water in 2015 when I was 65. This past summer in September of 2016 was when I caught my first wave on my Hammer and I'm now 66.

[surfinJ]

Rule #1. Keep both hands on the paddle at all times.

I disagree...but I think it's def good to hang on to it most of the time for turning and racing down the line. Sometimes I find myself surfing the wave w/out both hands on the paddle and when the wave starts getting away from me it's too late to start sweeping and catch up. The reason I'm disagreeing though is this one drop I took in spring 2015.  As soon as I read your comment, Badger I instantly thought of that wave. It really threw out and both my arms flew up in the air to make it. It was pure survival instinct taking over. Thing huffed a beautiful cloud that flew past me. I'll never forget that wave!

That's right on cookie.  When you drop steep into a hollow beauty like that one in your pic it seems to happen naturally that the paddle ends up in just your down hand. And then it's not easy or an immediate priority to get it back in play.

[SUPcheat]

How old do you need to be to claim geezer privilege?  Is there a sliding scale for injuries?  I just want to make sure I use everything I can at my disposal. ;-)

Since I started all this as a geezer, and I am getting more geezerly the longer I do it, than I claim double geezer privilege.

I first stood up on a wave in September three years ago at 63.  I'm pushing 67 in December.

Otherwise, YMMV.

I first paddled my Hobie sup on flat water in 2015 when I was 65. This past summer in September of 2016 was when I caught my first wave on my Hammer and I'm now 66.

Finally, I can declare senior seniority over somebody!

Eat my wake, grom!

[Badger]

Rule #1. Keep both hands on the paddle at all times.

I disagree...but I think it's def good to hang on to it most of the time for turning and racing down the line. Sometimes I find myself surfing the wave w/out both hands on the paddle and when the wave starts getting away from me it's too late to start sweeping and catch up. The reason I'm disagreeing though is this one drop I took in spring 2015.  As soon as I read your comment, Badger I instantly thought of that wave. It really threw out and both my arms flew up in the air to make it. It was pure survival instinct taking over. Thing huffed a beautiful cloud that flew past me. I'll never forget that wave!

That's right on cookie.  When you drop steep into a hollow beauty like that one in your pic it seems to happen naturally that the paddle ends up in just your down hand. And then it's not easy or an immediate priority to get it back in play.

Okay, there may be a few exceptions. Like in this pic of Kealii Mamala.

http://i.vimeocdn.com/video/525547477_1280x720.jpg

but to do it all the time on casual waves looks kooky.   

[surfercook]

Badger- "but to do it all the time on casual waves looks kooky. "
Couldn't agree more. The first year I was on sup full time I found myself frequently surfing the waves w/out both hands on the paddle. I quickly concluded that was not good technique. Not only for functionality but also it just looked wrong. Case in point is my "South Swell Sweeping" video from 2013.
Funny,  watching it after all this time it actually seemed to work for me. 

[southwesterly]

A Mo Freitas bottom turn. This is an extreme example of why you use two hands on your paddle. You can lean over and engage the rail with your paddle as an outrigger for balance.

BTW.. nice video Carl. It’s nice to see the homeland.

[seadart]

I'm still learning but I came at SUP surfing from high performance waveski paddle surfing.  If you don't use the paddle to help initiate turns and adjust speed and trim you might as well be riding a long board. The paddle gives you a lot of ability to sink the rails and tap the power of the wave to carve turns.  There are lot of really good tips on the internet on how to do this.

http://www.davidkalama.com/using-your-paddle/

One thing I notice on beginner SUP videos is a lot of just straight in surfing, the surfer just looking towards the beach holding the paddle in one hand like a prop.  On a fast peeling wave after your bottom turn you should be looking down the wave at the top of the lip and aiming your next two or three turns.  I'm lucky to pull off a bottom turn and a top turn, but you should be thinking about your next two or three turns not just holding the paddle and doing a Straight-In Charlie.

[nalu-sup]

Hey supcheat, thanks for the video. It was great to see you in person catching some nice waves and having fun. 40 years ago I spent part of a year living right behind Jack O'Neil's house on I think 36th (?). I used to paddle (prone of course back then) down to Privates from there to get away from the crowds sometimes. Great to see the spot again.
+1 on using the paddle once you are up and surfing. Eric at Paddlewoo has some great thoughts and videos on this. He makes a point of referring to Standup as "paddle assisted surfing"; the point being that the paddle is not just for getting out to the break and catching waves, but it can really assists in more dynamic performance on the wave.  It looks like you are getting a good sense of using the rails for your turns; play with adding some paddle skills to the mix and it can up your wave riding fun.
Keep the vids coming, and like others said, leave out the word boring next time since it was fun to watch.

[southwesterly]

I just watched this again, it's great that you added all the stuff that goes on all around you as you park and go out.
Funny, I just noticed that you parked in my normal spot, you usually park across the street on the cliff side.

[SUPcheat]

Thanks, guys.  I do have to pay more attention to my paddle once on the wave, although these days I get such solemn pleasure from stepping and shucking on the board I tend to forget it.  The paddle techniques are for future practice, and I just don't get enough large waves to implement enough.

With the vigorous conditions, I have gotten a couple of triple re-entries off the lip going down the line the past couple of days.  One of the SUP ladies gave me a sincere compliment on a ride. Fear, my chronic companion out there, seems to have taken a vacation for the last month, and I am getting just a little bit more daring by degrees.

The wave gods as usual have a sense of humor, and when I was leaving yesterday, I slipped and fell down the slippery rock steps at Privates like a clown, dropping the board and winding twisted up in a weird heap.  It reminded me of when people were laughing at me on a weekly basis when I was first practicing on the harbor on my inflatable.

I checked the Speeed, and in spite of the thunks, no sign of any cracks or damage to it's credit.

[addapost]

Hi, Cook,

Kneeling pop ups seem to be my forte. 

Since I am heavy, I don't have the entry ease of lighter dudes and since my current boards are on the shorter side, I need all the modalities I can get.

Lots of fun there. Great looking spot.
How heavy are you and what size Speeed is that?