General > The Shape Shack
How easy is it replace a handle?
Badger:
I'm sick of the LiftSUP handle on my Sunova. I'd like to replace it with the Blue Planet SupGrip.
Is it a difficult job? Can the average board repair guy do it? Would I be looking at a huge labor cost if I hired someone?
I'm not sure if I have the skills to do it myself. Nor do I have the tools, but I'm open to the idea. I'm pretty good with epoxy. I've just never cut into a board before. Would it be risky as a DIY project? What tools would I need?
After watching this video, it looks like the LS handles are installed fairly permanently, with resin in the bottom of the hole. Is it even possible to get the handle out once it's installed or is that not an option?
J-Bird:
Never replaced a handle, but I did just replace a FCS plug on a shortboard, and the hardest part was removing the damaged plug. I imagine a properly installed handle would be even tougher. But it's not impossible, just might take a bit of effort.
jrandy:
Badger-other that the guy reaching in the hole while the router was spinning...that was a good install video.
The Blue Planet handle install does not look difficult. I would make router templates.
My only concern would be if there was any metal in the Liftsup handle that could nick a router bit during the 'remove existing' part of the job. One could ague for using a little more resin and a little less glass during the install.
Badger:
The installation looks simple enough. I think I could do it.
The big question is, can the LiftSup be removed without damaging the board? Sunovas have very thin layers on the bottom. I'd hate to end up with an indentation in the bottom of the board.
SUPflorida:
--- Quote from: jrandy on October 21, 2016, 06:05:11 AM ---Badger-other that the guy reaching in the hole while the router was spinning...that was a good install video.
The Blue Planet handle install does not look difficult. I would make router templates.
My only concern would be if there was any metal in the Liftsup handle that could nick a router bit during the 'remove existing' part of the job. One could ague for using a little more resin and a little less glass during the install.
--- End quote ---
I bought one of these handles and will be installing it this morning...I do not care for the way they install the handle in the video. I come from the perspective of windsurfing where fin boxes and mast tracks were always points of failure in both production and custom boards.
After lessons learned, I always put 3-4 layers of 4 oz clothe under whatever I'm inserting in the board. Not only under, but it comes out of the hole and laps onto the deck 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" on all sides. Seen to many plugs/finboxes/mast tracks lose bond with plastic even when meticulously prepared by sanding and chemical pre-treatment .
By putting glass under the object (and out onto the deck) you are giving some longitudinal integrity back to the deck skin. But mainly you are islolating the foam from water intrusion (even if the handle fails). And you are getting greater bonding surface to the box other than just the top face.
I believe the installer in the video put 8 layers on top of the box, and minimal filler to bond in the actual hole. Overkill on the deck, underkill in the cutout. The box itself creates a stress risers. If the bond breaks between the glass overlay and the plastic box water can enter without the owner being aware of it (under the pad) until weight change is noticeable or bubbles start manifesting themselves around the handle. By that time you have water in the board, all of which you will never get completely out.
My method is twice the trouble to that shown in the video, but the peace of mind is worth it to me.
Unfortionately the design/construction of this particular box does not lend itself to a flush install using the method I use. I will not be recessing the flange but rather have it sit/bond to the deck Everything is a compromise when utilizing what is commonly available.
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