Go Pro wipeout that snapped my FCS Tail mount.

[Tom English]

FCS plugs will blow out at high levels of impact.  Photos by www.JohnSlavinPhoto.com
The video of this wipeout is the last wave of this clip. http://web.mac.com/tomtomproductions1/tomtomproductions1/Monster_Paint_Video.html
Aloha,
Tom English

[paddlesurf.net]

Hey Tom- that setup you have (had) for your GP is cool! It get's rid of what I call the "pole dancing" effect because the cams not on the paddle (which seems to be the stable axis which you rotate around = pole dancing)- but having that rigid arm's going to produce some pretty good torque.

I was trying to find that flexy plastic stuff that photographers use to hold lights on underwater cameras- it's pretty rigid but can bend all over the place. It looks like a bunch of ball and socket joints linked together- it can be articulated in almost any direction. I think that'd work better and keep from popping da' plug! Anybody know about that stuff?

[Tom English]

Exactly what I was thinking.  Bend, don't break.  A strong spring might work also.  Let me know if you find something good.
Aloha,
Tom English

[surfpainter]

Cool looking wipeout Tom!

[Allan Cheateaux]

I would take a look at the gorilla pod for digital SLR's. Its wicked stiff, but pliable. Should be able to modify the feet somehow to fit FCS plugs and you could use 2 points of attachment. Might be worth exploring...

[bigdom]

i gaffer taped one of these to my longboard - it moved and wobbled too much

[andygere]

In addition to making the mount more flexible, beefing up the plug installation is probably a good idea.  Using a plug of high density foam in the blank where the plug will go, and glassing over the plug will probably help.  This is more difficult to do when retrofitting a board, but is worth considering for new board construction.  Looking at the photos, the camera mount creates quite a long moment arm when the board rolls, which is probably what torqued the plug out.  A fin mounted in an FCS plug would generally not put those forces on it, and the fin forces are shared across 2 or more plugs.

[PonoBill]

I use windsurfing mast bases for my mounts. They don't work for taller mounts because of the torque, but for anything up to a foot and a light camera like the Go Pro they do pretty well. I haven't done anything with them for a long time, I guess I should take some video with them and some pics of the mounts.

I have an alternative approach that works well for my rod holder that might be adapted. Its a mast base that snaps into a piece of PVC pipe with another piece of pipe telescoped over the entire mount. This makes a semi-rigiid mount that flexes if you stumble into it because the pipe can slide up under impact.

Here's some shots from an article I'm doing on SUP fishing alternatives for Ke Nalu



In the fishing position



Locked in the fishing position--I use this position when I'm trolling



In the stumbling around position



Knocked over



Sleeve locked in the travel position. I take the rod apart, hook the lure to the reel crossbar and wind it tight, and push the rod tip into the rodholder alongside the butt. Then run a light bungee across the nose hooked to rings in the inserts.

You don't need a mast track for a mast base, you can use heavy-duty single inserts. You don't need a complete mast base--the universal can be screwed into an insert. I use this stuff because I have lots of mast bases. All those years of windsurfing.

I think this reinforced universal approach could work for a light camera. I came up with this rod holder because I wanted to simplify my fishing gear. It works great--the rod is right where you can grab it instantly. The only hassle is paddling during trolling--you have to swing the paddle vertically to change sides.

[Tom English]

We're getting closer.  Thanks for the help guys.
Aloha,
Tom English