Author Topic: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.  (Read 70546 times)

yugi

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #15 on: May 24, 2016, 06:26:31 AM »
16 x 24.5 sounds perfect. A little longer means you can go a little narrower.

Exactly what I was asking Jimmy for. Would love to try.

So will that one fit on the plane to bring down?

supuk

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #16 on: May 24, 2016, 06:30:55 AM »
Not to sure about flying with it I will be down in lacanau in June could posabley do a detour on the way back but I have stacks on at the moment with my wedding coming up. We will be back over in August allso.

PonoBill

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #17 on: May 24, 2016, 07:19:36 AM »

The depth of the water round here is a HUGE factor. You can't compare downwind runs where you have 35 knots acting over strongly tidal water that is less than 20ft deep and the fetch might be almost zero, to water that is 100ft deep, virtually no tidal current, and has a fetch of hundreds of miles.

Not trying to trigger a debate, but which of those two conditions is supposed to be a Maliko run? Maliko is generally shallow with big depth variations. The current isn't as profound as heavily tidal areas, but it's a factor, both from tide and swell funneling over the reefs and running back out through channels. Typical Malikos mix ultra-long fetch rollers with local short-period high wind swell and ground swell from various directions--some perpendicular.  I realize that comparing current to anyone from the UK sparks a Crocodile Dundee opportunity: "That isn't a tidal current--THIS is a tidal current." Viento runs might be more similar. Very high wind in relatively shallow water with an opposing current that could be anywhere from 0 to five kts. The current direction is highly variable because of the varied bottom terrain, the meandering river, and the sandbars--some of which stretch for miles.

And to River's question, yes, the transmitter is in the paddle handle with two buttons. The receiver connects to a microcontroller that manages how the servo-driven rudder responds to the buttons. For the first few degrees of travel the rudder moves quickly and returns quickly to center. If the paddler holds the button longer the rudder continues to turn, but moves progressively more slowly and returns slowly. Pressing the opposite button cancels the slow return and enables quick countersteering. Pressing both buttons together toggles the autopilot on or off. The autopilot is compass-driven and just holds a heading. The autopilot rudder response is just a few degrees of trim and doesn't affect steering--it just changes the center point by whatever degree of trim the system is set to permit.

You can probably see the general benefits of the design. Point the board towards a landmark or a buoy and press both buttons. You can then put your head down and just paddle, or you can actively control the board for downwinding but allow the system to continuously correct the general heading. It's surprisingly faster in autopilot mode because the rudder adjustments are very subtle. Steering either a fixed fin or a conventional rudder board involves a lot more drag from the much rougher corrections people make.

The servo actuates the rudder with a tensioned, low-shake push pull system that gives the servo considerable mechanical advantage and further reduces rudder wiggling and hunting. The difference in removing the slop from conventional tillers is noticeable, the board becomes very responsive. Too responsive at first, I had to do a lot of tuning to make it comfortable. There's probably a lot of performance tucked away there that people who can handle a more responsive board could take advantage of. There's also all that lovely open deck.

I developed the rudder a few years ago, tested it one winter in Maui, and then set it aside for other projects. My Maui friends are probably going to tar and feather me if I don't build some soon. It's more or less the first thing Double-R asks me about whenever he sees me. Solar charging is a great idea. Didn't think of that. The transmitter battery lasts for weeks since there's no idle current.
« Last Edit: May 24, 2016, 07:34:19 AM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

supuk

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #18 on: May 24, 2016, 07:33:36 AM »
I won't be doing anything that fancy for the rudder I don't think I'm not one for electronics my plan is just a simple two button thing or I have found a micro tx with built in joystick which is the other option. Exponential will be set simply through the macanical linkages and how the servo is set up. Bill if you do ever get round to building more of your ones put my name on the list I would love to try it.

PonoBill

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #19 on: May 24, 2016, 07:42:32 AM »
I suspect what I will be doing with the design and construction is making it open source so people can build their own. I'll 3D print all the parts for the enclosure and the servo connections as well as the paddle handle adapter and provide the cad files. The code and schematics are easy, but I'll have to change my typical hen scratches and spaghetti code into something usable for other folks. It's a priority project for this summer, right behind getting my race car back together.

The whole thing could be built inside a board, either hollow or foam. Tempting to do it that way, but I think it makes more sense to do a low profile prism-shaped box.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

supuk

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #20 on: May 24, 2016, 11:57:54 AM »
I suppose I should put a few pics up for you all to look at although it's always hard to photograph dw boards that makes them look like they do in real life because of the rocker tricking the eye.
« Last Edit: May 24, 2016, 12:06:42 PM by supuk »

PonoBill

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #21 on: May 24, 2016, 12:31:01 PM »
Wow, that looks really sweet. Are the channels on the nose intended to direct water off the board? They might also serve to help break up the flow holding the nose down in a boof, or at least help the nose come up straight.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

supuk

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #22 on: May 24, 2016, 01:01:34 PM »
no more of just a cosmetic thing.

yugi

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #23 on: May 24, 2016, 01:08:33 PM »
To stop beer cans rolling off?

eastbound

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #24 on: May 24, 2016, 01:08:44 PM »
gorgeous--you are continually putting your love machine to good work!
Portal Barra 8'4"
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KeNalu Mana 82, xTuf, ergoT

supuk

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #25 on: May 24, 2016, 01:16:34 PM »
To stop beer cans rolling off?

haha like or banana holders. Managed to get the board fluffed out this eve and speckled so it can dry happily for the next two weeks while i am away in florida, going to be rather excited to get home to this one though :) you don't realise how much bigger they are compared to a 12'6 till you start working on it!

UKRiverSurfers

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #26 on: May 25, 2016, 02:16:37 AM »
I suspect what I will be doing with the design and construction is making it open source so people can build their own. I'll 3D print all the parts for the enclosure and the servo connections as well as the paddle handle adapter and provide the cad files. The code and schematics are easy, but I'll have to change my typical hen scratches and spaghetti code into something usable for other folks. It's a priority project for this summer, right behind getting my race car back together.

The whole thing could be built inside a board, either hollow or foam. Tempting to do it that way, but I think it makes more sense to do a low profile prism-shaped box.

Maybe a box that could be sold as a separate part to fit to an existing rudder?

I have a few mega strong metal geared servos kicking around.. My only concern is - more stuff to go wrong or break.

A retro fitted system would give you the option to fall back onto the cables if it all breaks.
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Glowmaster

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #27 on: May 25, 2016, 05:39:49 AM »
oooh  aaaah

I wish you lived near me.

ed

SUPflorida

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #28 on: May 26, 2016, 03:39:05 AM »
Looks sweet! Any chance you will post a picture of the bottom? And from the side...to give some idea of the rocker profile.

Picked up foam three weeks ago and was already to start a new 14 build, then this Unlimited topic flared up again. Always someone sturring the pot   :P

I pretty much mentally overcame that temptation, then you pulled this rabbit out of your hat. Now I'm fighting the "head battle voices"' going ....16' fixed fin hybrid "charge"... I have a laundry list of why not to but that 16' of eye candy you cranked out is feeding emotion over reason.

Area 10

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Re: Ooooops I hit the button on a unlimited.
« Reply #29 on: May 26, 2016, 04:46:04 AM »
Looks sweet! Any chance you will post a picture of the bottom? And from the side...to give some idea of the rocker profile.

Picked up foam three weeks ago and was already to start a new 14 build, then this Unlimited topic flared up again. Always someone sturring the pot   :P

I pretty much mentally overcame that temptation, then you pulled this rabbit out of your hat. Now I'm fighting the "head battle voices"' going ....16' fixed fin hybrid "charge"... I have a laundry list of why not to but that 16' of eye candy you cranked out is feeding emotion over reason.
Why not? But if you are going fixed fin 16 make sure you extend the standing area/deck pad a little further forward than you would for a 14, because it helps enormously with fixie big boards in many situations (eg. in cross-winds) to be able to stand well forward. Ideally you want no more nose in front of you than you have with a 14 in real terms, and that means proportionally the deck area needs to extend more forwards with a longer board. In other words, if your 16 is basically adding a foot to the rear and nose compared with your 14, then make sure you don't always have to have the entire 1 foot extra nose in front of your feet.

 


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